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Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter, Scottish Winter IV-VII, Chasing the Ephemeral, Winter 2018/19.

Simonfarfaraway 19/Jan 2nd O/S

Brilliant route

with Shaw Brown, loz
Little AndyH 19/Jan AltLd
with MrRiley
MrRiley 19/Jan 2nd O/S

Great route, very sustained, shame it's so short.

with joe dobson, Little AndyH
joe.91 19/Jan AltLd O/S

Great route in good condition, first of the grade! Led P1.

Shaw Brown 19/Jan 2nd
Goodstuff 09/Jan AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Tough initial wall to access the chimney, which eases with height. Awkward pull over bulge onto the belay ledge. P2 was pleasantly sustained and thinky with some rime ice that required a bit of hacking. Overall a super fun, technical and well-protected climb. Just a notch harder than Savage Slit.

Hidden 17/Dec/18 AltLd O/S
Dougbart 09/Dec/18 AltLd

Lead pich 1

with matt
calumhicks 05/Dec/18 AltLd O/S
with Tim Miller
mim tiller 05/Dec/18 AltLd O/S

Did this in the morning then savage slit in the afternoon

graeme gatherer 01/Dec/18 -
with Steve Elliot
alexm198 25/Nov/18 AltLd O/S

Superb route. Sustained climbing on mostly bomber hooks with some thought-provoking moves (particularly entering and then leaving the chimney on P1 and surmounting the two ledges at the end of the pitch. Enjoyed the steep, undercut chimney on P2, as well. Led P1 and wished it would never end! Started early and was back at the car by 1pm.

Matt Harle 25/Nov/18 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

Connorh 24/Nov/18 2nd RP

I couldnt get myself into the Chimney on P1, went down and gave the lead over.

jackob 24/Nov/18 Lead

Lead both pitches first Grade 6 felt pretty full on!

benkelsey 04/Feb/18 AltLd dnf

It really pains me to say this, but: bailed less than 15m from the top due to unconsolidated powder on rock with a 5mm layer of rime on everything, and over 5 inches of Hoar. So gutted. Lead the crux pitch though which was awesome and well protected. I'll remember exiting the chimney for a long time. Bluebird day and no wind, everything was freezing hard. Best weather I've ever seen in Scotland in Winter. Similar levels of digging to Belhaven back in '14. First VI lead and tech 6 lead.

with drobin
Al_Mac 26/Jan/18 2nd
with Eric H
Just Will 13/Jan/18 AltLd

Lead the first pitch and enjoyed it so much I did part of it twice... Stupid mistake - being a bit overconfident. First winter lead fall.

Hidden 13/Jan/18 2nd
Jamie Skelton 13/Jan/18 AltLd O/S
with Jack Morris
Alfie Maun 13/Jan/18 AltLd O/S

lead P2

with Just Will, Joe Fisher
Simon Allcock 03/Jan/18 2nd O/S

A great adventure. Route was buried and a lot of excavation required. Wilki’s night nav was much needed! If you climbed Fallout Corner on the same day, look up Simon allcock on Facebook and I’ll send some good pictures.

with Wilki
guitarshane 27/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Windy and cold, great wee route though. Pretty thick rime build up, clearing it wasn't too much fun as it all seemed to be blowing right into my face, also dropped a big Black Diamond glove, let me know if you find it and I'll sort out its return.

with Tim Oliver
Hidden 27/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Colin Dyer 02/Dec/17 AltLd

Very good. Made sweeter by the fact we “went for a look” and ended up beating the thaw. Well protected, sustained, quality.

with DaveHK
joeflan 26/Nov/17 AltLd O/S


with chris downham, chrismoore
CMoore 26/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Brilliant conditions. Brilliant route. Top pitch was more interesting than excpected. Sustained intrest and enjoyment all the way!

with Chris Downham, joeflan
donalmurray 26/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Unbelievable route in great early season nick. Got a bout of the hot aches at the top of the chimney on the first pitch and ended up pumped out of my trunks. The belly flop ledge was a nice break. Top slab felt blank and bold - could do with being banked out a bit more in the crack. Definitely deserves the three stars!

with Adam24B
Adam24B 26/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1, amazing climbing up the well protected chimney followed by some full on bellyflops! Turns out I forgot to clip my gear to the rope before the final mantle, glad I didn't stack it...

Roberttaylor 18/Nov/17 Lead O/S

First pitch only. Nicely rimed up, cracks free of ice.

Brian Pollock 12/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Good route in excellent early season nick

Hugh Simons 12/Nov/17 AltLd G/U

Took a big fall off the second pitch last year, log from that day (have included it here rather than logging again as I can't log the G/U otherwise!): (6/11/16) "Very rimed up for November, full on conditions! Intermittent snow and constant wind all day. Martin lead the first pitch which was great, I led the 2nd pitch almost to the top - I took the 'easy' (according to Scottish Winter Climbs) exit up the corner at the top instead of straight up the chimney as it looked very tricky being covered in a huge amount of rime. The corner at the top was not easy! Sketchy slab with poor feet and no hooks, I was painfully close to topping out when my feet went, as I fell back the hex i'd placed got ripped out resulting in a 15 m fall to 10 m above the belay. Thank goodness I'd re-adjusted that cam some way below the hex! Retreat was then pretty obvious as it was getting late. Thankfully escaped with only a slightly sprained ankle. Absolutely gutted as I'd done almost the whole pitch, we came so close. I will return..." A year and a week on and conditions were very similar - whole crag pretty white with a decent amount of rime on the upper pitch. All went much better today - I led the 1st pitch this time which was more sustained than I remember with a tricky move to gain the chimney and also to gain the small ledge before the mantle to the belay. Really good climbing though. Brian cruised up the 2nd pitch, which I followed with no issues this time. Great start to the season but more importantly great to be out in winter again!

olekemi 07/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

What a great route; steep, technical, strenuous, and with interest throughout. Agree with previous comment, mounting the top ledges of p1 was tricky, and p2 had a lot of awkward moves. Finished up via the direct chimney.

with Jeremy M
Richard Kendrick 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with davkeo
davkeo 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Stunning day out. No wind. Blue skies. This was an excellent climb with varied interest all the way. Had to wait about an hour to get going as there was a team on overseer which shares the same start. Not a bad day to wait with plenty of climbers on routes to watch. I did p1 which was a beauty. Sustained. Crux for me was mounting the two ledges at the end of p1. Scottish winter climbing weirdness pulling moves u never seem to have done before. Not graceful but effective. P2 was better & harder than expected with some tricky steps and pulling around blocks.

with Rich Kendrick
seanhendo123 12/Jan/17 AltLd O/S

Great route, fits a lot in for 60m....lead 2nd pitch, harder steps interspersed with rests, generally good gear although cracks on my pitch were icy so cams were useless. Finished direct rather than stepping left at top bulge. First VI6, happy days

with Lamb
Lamb 12/Jan/17 AltLd G/U

Unexpected hook pop at bottom of chimney, feet landed back on turfy ledge. A bit gutting to lose the onsight. All good second go. Brilliant route and P1 is very safe if cracks are dry.

Robin Clothier 20/Nov/16 Lead
with AmyG
BrianShackleton 20/Nov/16 AltLd

A great route on a fine weekend in the northern curries. Pitch 1 myself, pitch 2 Robin. Nice piccies by Robin and Amy!

AmyG 20/Nov/16 2nd O/S
Dangerous Dave 19/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Nae bad, led pitch one.

peter.herd 11/Nov/16 AltLd

Quick hit in front of the approaching weather. Not horrendous on route but got pretty blasted on the way out.

with Murdo
Martin McKenna - UKC 10/Nov/16 AltLd G/U
with Richard Able, John McKenna
Richard Abel 10/Nov/16 AltLd
John McKenna 10/Nov/16 2nd O/S
robertmichaellovell 06/Feb/16 AltLd

Icey cracks

with Fiona
hamish2016 15/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
with Tom Ripley
Craig Holden 04/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Jake Dowell
Hidden 21/Feb/15 -
robpartridge 03/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
with Euan
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Nick Wallis ??/2015 -
with Stan
alasdair19 ??/2015 -
Hidden 05/Nov/14 -
masa-alpin 23/Jan/14 2nd dog
with Ross
Scott Rankin 11/Jan/14 AltLd dnf

Completely buried and impossible to protect.

Hidden 25/Nov/13 Lead
DJayB 25/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Not enough pitches to get to lead anything :( great route! Great conditions!

with Craig, tom.simmo
Graeme Barr 24/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and slabby corner above the wobbly block.

with Stu
stuart34 24/Nov/13 AltLd rpt

P2, very loose big boulder/block near top of P2 watch out

with Grame
Hidden 23/Nov/13 AltLd
Uisdean hawthorn 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
stuart34 10/Nov/13 Lead dnf

Climbed the chimney and fell off trying to mantel near the top of the pitch. gutted

with Grame
Stuart the postie 01/Mar/13 Lead
with Ian Dempster
Hidden 23/Feb/13 2nd
JRae 17/Feb/13 AltLd

P1. Amazing day, awesome climbing. Shed loads of hoar, pretty knackering but incredibly satisfying.

with Ben Silvestre, mwatson
Hidden 16/Jan/13 AltLd
al99 16/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, epic, patch led pitch two which had loads of rime on and was slow going!

Hidden 12/Jan/13 AltLd
Clevelandclimber 12/Jan/13 AltLd

Lead pitch one but pitch two was also pretty spicy and needed some ice!

buzby78 01/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Never lead harder than grade IV before so got pretty knackered leading the first pitch, good lock off training though cleaning those iced up cracks!

with Libby
Tom Livingstone 16/Dec/12 AltLd O/S


Dave Almond 16/Dec/12 AltLd
with Tom Livingstone
Andrew Sloan 11/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Tremendous route. The lefthand slab/crack finish was very tenuous due to lack of neve, just powder some hexes for this bit as I didn't!

with Dave Sharp
Rich A 28/Nov/12 AltLd

Lots of, er Hoar. 2 hr walk in baltic northerly. Lots of rime. Great.

mike.moss 03/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
with Kirill
Kirill 03/Nov/12 AltLd dog

Seconded P1 cleanly, led P2 where I went slightly off route, pumped out and had to rest a bit. Also made life harder for myself near the top by going straight up the off-width crack instead of stepping left. Got up it by the skin of my teeth. First route of the season and the first VI. Good conditions.

S Lynch 03/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/12 AltLd
James Smith 31/Jan/12 AltLd

super hard work with an enormous amount of powder to clear from every inch of the route. done on borrowed tools, which had a nasty habit of getting the handles clogged up with ice! took one fall seconding the first pitch when a seemingly good hook popped and had to take one rest on gear leading the second pitch. probably a good climb under there somewhere!

with edvin
Hidden 28/Jan/12 AltLd rpt
michael83 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch, though it doesn't get easier on the second

with Mark020
mux 23/Jan/12 -

BMC Winter Meet - Urban Novak

with Urban Novak
davesykes 22/Jan/12 2nd

Coops led pitch one Dave P2. Both coops and I seconded P 2 together - I balance out left on wobbly block which dropped off onto Si Frosts head the next day, his partner having trundled it.

with Dave Gerrard, coops
Martin Cooper 22/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with David Gerrard, Dave Sykes
Hidden 15/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

1 cheeky move near the top of pitch 1. Great fun in the chimney!

with Tom Jumar
Andrew Wilson 08/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

led first pitch. brilliant route.

with Mark Schmude
adie84 ??/2012 -
geoff.comley 15/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Yes! Been wanting to do this for a while. Found the groove ok but then had 1ft thick powder to clear to get out of it. Awesome climb.

Hidden 04/Dec/11 AltLd
GraMc 04/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

great wee route, lots of verglace made the gear a bit spicy, but really secure climbing

with phil emerson, emily roo
James Thacker 01/Dec/11 Lead
The old James turnbull ?/Dec/11 AltLd
with aiden
nvalentine760 26/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Amazing, First VI, Glad for the in situ gear, great climb!! :D

Hidden 26/Jan/11 2nd
alkira ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Pete Graham 13/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with James Monypenny
Hidden 10/Nov/10 AltLd
PaulCunningham ??/2010 -
Hidden 29/Nov/09 Lead O/S
david morse 28/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1, an excellent route

with Steve
stevebarratt 28/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Peter Rhodes 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Alan Dow
Hidden 29/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Greg Boswell 24/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
with Euan Whittaker
Alasdair Fulton 04/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

It was definitely winter conditions....until halfway up the second pitch when it got warm and all melted!

Neil Adams 04/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Amazingly good conditions for the start of October. The thaw hit when Ally was half way up the top pitch, but we'd done the meat of the route by then.

robertporter 21/Dec/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Jan/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
sgl 18/Nov/06 AltLd
with helena
centurion05 ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
nickdonohue ?/Apr/04 Lead


with Mark McCarthy
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
James Gordon ?/Apr/02 -
Yourlead 05/Dec/01 2nd

Very sustained and climbed with verglas and finished in the dark

with Graham Penny
DaveHK ?/Jan/00 Lead
with Iain Sharpe
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Nov/95 AltLd
with Nick Ashton
Hidden ?/Feb/95 2nd
pingora 20/Dec/94 Lead O/S
with Shaun R
Hidden ?/Mar/92 Lead
Grahame N 19/Nov/88 AltLd

First ascent. Rab led 1st pitch, I led 2nd pitch.

with Rob Milne, Rab Anderson
Malcolm Bass 30/Jan/50 AltLd O/S

Date inaccurate. I have no idea when it was.

with Dave McKinney, Andy Brown
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High VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 33
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
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