61m, 3 pitches. Start from the horizontal bit of Jack's Rake which is just before the dangerous bad step. A few metres right of the start of Aardvark is an easy-looking crack/groove line.
1. 4b Follow the crack/groove (steeper and harder than it looks) to belay on a comfortable ledge on the left.
2. 4b A bold pitch. Climb the gentle slab above, moving right to stand below a right-facing corner groove guarded by a steep little bulge. Obtain as much pro as you can find. Overcome the bulge and move left into a similar groove on good holds but no gear. Repeat the manoeuvre to reach a slab which mercifully supplies good pro. Continue up the narrowing slab until it more or less ends and then shimmy rightwards round the arête into a large corner groove the lower part of which is part of Cook's Tour. Reach an awkward stance with awkward anchors from which awkward rope management may re-unite you with your second.
3. 4b Climb the right facing corner above the stance (not the slanting groove) and continue steeply over some suspicious looking ringing flakes from which the impressive looking left facing corner on your right can be reached and climbed to an abrupt finish.
A fairly long scramble and rightwards wander leads to the walkers' descent from which the Great Gully descent can be reached to return to the foot of Jack's Rake.

Ticklists

Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Langdale 3 star VS round - Climb them all in a single day (2013 Guide), Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017, UK Holiday Plans

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Stuart Macfarlane 14 Jul AltLd rpt Led pitch 2.
with Jeanie
Led pitch 2.
with Jeanie
Hidden 14 Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Jul AltLd O/S
nathanshaw 4 Jul 2nd
with Paul, Sian
with Paul, Sian
V1c 29 Jun AltLd
GermanAlex 29 Jun AltLd O/S Led P1+2 as one, which just about worked with half ropes but still go a bit draggy. Viktoria led P3, which definitely has the nicest climbing. Below it's a little too disjointed for my taste.
with V1c
Led P1+2 as one, which just about worked with half ropes but still go a bit draggy. Viktoria led P3, which definitely has the nicest climbing. Below it's a little too disjointed for my taste.
with V1c
Memelle 23 Jun 2nd Done as a continuation after Crescent Slabs (under Jack's Rake). Very interesting rock. Felt weird though. Drag + wind. We may have gotten lost.
Done as a continuation after Crescent Slabs (under Jack's Rake). Very interesting rock. Felt weird though. Drag + wind. We may have gotten lost.
Joshcastril 23 Jun Lead O/S
with Dave Lobley
with Dave Lobley
IainMay 22 Jun Lead O/S
Mairi Jones 22 Jun 2nd O/S
with IainMay
with IainMay
CathS 25 May 2nd O/S Nice climbing on fantastic rock.
with Dave Clark
Nice climbing on fantastic rock.
with Dave Clark
MJTheobald97 14 May Lead O/S Did just the 3rd pitch... fantastic, great start the day.
Did just the 3rd pitch... fantastic, great start the day.
JonLongshanks 14 May AltLd O/S tasty rock
tasty rock
Hidden 22 Apr 2nd O/S
David Wynne 27 Feb AltLd Lead P1 & P3
with Roger Saxton
Lead P1 & P3
with Roger Saxton
lithos 18 Nov, 2018 AltLd P2 (i'd run P2&3 together in future) really interesting route, not difficult but enjoyable and varied, occasionally a bit bold but on great holds
P2 (i'd run P2&3 together in future) really interesting route, not difficult but enjoyable and varied, occasionally a bit bold but on great holds
Hidden 18 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Nov, 2018 Lead
peterbradshaw101 18 Nov, 2018 AltLd
with lithos
with lithos
Alpenglow 28 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Not a 3 star route as is a bit discontinuous. Never too hard but lacking gear on the 2nd pitch. Final crack on P3 is best climbing on the road route.
with NUMC
Not a 3 star route as is a bit discontinuous. Never too hard but lacking gear on the 2nd pitch. Final crack on P3 is best climbing on the road route.
with NUMC
Malcolm Bass 28 Oct, 2018 Solo
Chelsey Robinson 15 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Senior
with Andrew Senior
eilidh_m 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Willie Milne
with Willie Milne
Guy Bennell 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Dave Roche
with Dave Roche
mtempest 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd Finished up Gwynne's Chimney after downpour
Finished up Gwynne's Chimney after downpour
Steve Waters, Mynydd 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Trevera 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Steph Sly 7 Jul, 2018 2nd First multi-pitch.
with Megan, Uber
First multi-pitch.
with Megan, Uber
megdc 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd Good day out but doesn’t feel vs. Last pitch is the best as feels a little more like climbing than the first two which were more scrambly
Good day out but doesn’t feel vs. Last pitch is the best as feels a little more like climbing than the first two which were more scrambly
bryan p 30 Jun, 2018 -
with Ruth
with Ruth
Flavio 27 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Anne Daykin
with Anne Daykin
Harry Ellis 25 Jun, 2018 Lead Great route worth its stars. Lovely mellow climbing and good gear.
with Lucy Hepburn
Great route worth its stars. Lovely mellow climbing and good gear.
with Lucy Hepburn
D.botts87 22 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Really good top pitch
with Lee
Really good top pitch
with Lee
sn 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Not 3*, but worth 2 I think. I led P1 and 3. Belay after P2 awkwardly positioned, but a higher belay would place you in the wrong place for the start of P3.
with Denise
Not 3*, but worth 2 I think. I led P1 and 3. Belay after P2 awkwardly positioned, but a higher belay would place you in the wrong place for the start of P3.
with Denise
HimTiggins 26 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
nuts and bolts 26 May, 2018 AltLd
tim_mcd 26 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Manchi
with Manchi
Manchi 26 May, 2018 AltLd Led P2
with tim_mcd
Led P2
with tim_mcd
Martyn Nicholson 22 May, 2018 Lead
with D Dunk
with D Dunk
Hidden 21 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 20 May, 2018 Lead O/S Lovely, like an easier golden slipper. One bold bit in the middle of p3. Did after crescent slabs to make an excellent day going all the way up the crag.
with Janet Wadsworth
Lovely, like an easier golden slipper. One bold bit in the middle of p3. Did after crescent slabs to make an excellent day going all the way up the crag.
with Janet Wadsworth
JendeHoxar 12 May, 2018 Solo O/S
JemG 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Jake Young 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S another route i think i may have done before.
with JemG
another route i think i may have done before.
with JemG
Rob Rocket 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
suddy 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P2.
with Justina Ivanova, mikespooner
Lead P2.
with Justina Ivanova, mikespooner
mikespooner 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P1 & 3
with Justina Ivanova, suddy
Led P1 & 3
with Justina Ivanova, suddy
Scooter Young 6 May, 2018 AltLd
clams ?May, 2018 AltLd Underwhelming. P3 good
Underwhelming. P3 good
robint12 19 Apr, 2018 2nd
with Chris Craven
with Chris Craven
nathanshaw 19 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S To avoid awkward belay at top of second pitch head up the groove for 3m to a nice grassy ledge below groove on pitch 3.
with Jo
To avoid awkward belay at top of second pitch head up the groove for 3m to a nice grassy ledge below groove on pitch 3.
with Jo
Hidden 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Norman_P_W 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Bob M
with Bob M
Bob M 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd Led 1 and 3.
Led 1 and 3.
r_o_b_h2 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Luke Jones 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p2. Great route.
Led p2. Great route.
Karl_Harrison 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
John Brayshaw 25 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Excellent route on great rock
Excellent route on great rock
stev1e.wilso 25 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Great climb, I led P2 which I really enjoyed. A long runout but fantastic grippy rock and no nasty surprises. Both other pitches were good too especially the last one, a nice contrast with P2.
Great climb, I led P2 which I really enjoyed. A long runout but fantastic grippy rock and no nasty surprises. Both other pitches were good too especially the last one, a nice contrast with P2.
91dave 4 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2017 Lead
joe hallam 2 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Been Hester
with Been Hester
NickR ?Jun, 2017 Lead
Stickle Tarn 29 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
bobpilgrem 23 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S 3 good pitches-worth a couple of stars.
with Tom
3 good pitches-worth a couple of stars.
with Tom
birks3746 23 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with joe.91
with joe.91
joe.91 23 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
tompilgrem 23 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
nickcj ??, 2017 AltLd
edwards_nicholas 23 Oct, 2016 AltLd
with Ian Hylands
with Ian Hylands
topsyturvy 7 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S p1 and 3
with Pero
p1 and 3
with Pero
Pero 7 Oct, 2016 AltLd Led pitch 2
Led pitch 2
Matt Harmon 2 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S led P2, nice enough route but not 3 star worthy
led P2, nice enough route but not 3 star worthy
Sarah Roscoe 2 Oct, 2016 AltLd led P1 + 3
led P1 + 3
Jenny Hall 2 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S
with Trevor, Louis
with Trevor, Louis
Lakesben 17 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Part of the Langdale 3* VS Challenge - Climbing them all in a single day. Hard to believe this gets 3 stars in the new guide, it's a very average route that is a bit disjointed and not very well protected in places.Certainly not a route for the apsiring VS Leader. Incredibly it's just across from Golden Slipper which is a proper 3 star route. I'm sure it's Just a coincidence that the route gets 3 stars in the latest guide and it was put up by the Langdale guidebook writer.......
with IanA
Part of the Langdale 3* VS Challenge - Climbing them all in a single day. Hard to believe this gets 3 stars in the new guide, it's a very average route that is a bit disjointed and not very well protected in places.Certainly not a route for the apsiring VS Leader. Incredibly it's just across from Golden Slipper which is a proper 3 star route. I'm sure it's Just a coincidence that the route gets 3 stars in the latest guide and it was put up by the Langdale guidebook writer.......
with IanA
CRead 15 Sep, 2016 AltLd
tom_drysdale 15 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with CRead
with CRead
john jennings 14 Sep, 2016 AltLd
with Ken, Steve
with Ken, Steve
Ken Taylor 13 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Steve Livingston, John Jennings
with Steve Livingston, John Jennings
Hidden 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Roger Cruse 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Kris
with Kris
kellyb (velvet.mustard) 27 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Matt Reed 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd P1 me
with Martin Dale, Simon Fenna
P1 me
with Martin Dale, Simon Fenna
DubyaJamesDubya 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Stewart Moody
with Stewart Moody
UnkArl 27 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Ben lead all 3 pitches - good varied climbing on lovely rough rock.
with bsparky
Ben lead all 3 pitches - good varied climbing on lovely rough rock.
with bsparky
bsparky 27 Jun, 2016 Lead
with UnkArl
with UnkArl
Maia 25 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with Faye PCC
with Faye PCC
pie_eater_pete 18 Jun, 2016 Solo
nicks 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Ian Ackerley
with Ian Ackerley
gazfellows 28 May, 2016 Lead Brilliant route but not much gear on the second pitch and a very loose block on the crux section. Beware !!!!
with Nic
Brilliant route but not much gear on the second pitch and a very loose block on the crux section. Beware !!!!
with Nic
scott gibson 22 May, 2016 AltLd
with graeme read
with graeme read
joermann 13 May, 2016 AltLd
odox 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Kizzy
with Kizzy
Helen Boothman 7 May, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 6 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
justdoit 26 Sep, 2015 Lead not as great as the guide book makes it out to be, and the pitch lengths are quite a way off I thought
not as great as the guide book makes it out to be, and the pitch lengths are quite a way off I thought
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Linked P1 and 2 by accident and missed out the step left, so ended up climbing the dirty groove.
with sjsh
Linked P1 and 2 by accident and missed out the step left, so ended up climbing the dirty groove.
with sjsh
sjsh 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd
gav 16 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Graham ran P1, 2 and some of 3 together. I lead the final corner crack. Lovely rock.
with Luke, redshapedfriday
Graham ran P1, 2 and some of 3 together. I lead the final corner crack. Lovely rock.
with Luke, redshapedfriday
Muskrat 16 Jun, 2015 2nd
with Graham, Gavin
with Graham, Gavin
Nigel Coe 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with Pete Kelly
with Pete Kelly
Tom124 20 Apr, 2015 2nd
Sam_Marsland 20 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tom Howitt
with Tom Howitt
Lee Sheard 17 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S pitch 1 and 2
pitch 1 and 2
rob.grafton 9 Apr, 2015 AltLd
with Chris Wright
with Chris Wright
Ed 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Good friction throughout and the gear is there for the diligent!
Good friction throughout and the gear is there for the diligent!
K Mckay 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Ed
with Ed
Pete Nugent 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led p1 & 3. Pitch 2 is bold with poor gear. Don't fall off!
Led p1 & 3. Pitch 2 is bold with poor gear. Don't fall off!
Rog Wilko 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd Excellent route, well done Max for finding it. Great route finding. Led middle pitch, where a very steady approach is needed - long gap between bits of gear. For those who want beta you get some OK gear before climbing into the first corner groove and your next piece is after you've got into the third groove. Fortunately the holds are good small sharp things on the top quality Pavey rock. Top pitch is also a stunner. For what it's worth I agree with the 4b but the boldness makes it VS+ (not the VS- given in the guide).
with Pete Nugent
Excellent route, well done Max for finding it. Great route finding. Led middle pitch, where a very steady approach is needed - long gap between bits of gear. For those who want beta you get some OK gear before climbing into the first corner groove and your next piece is after you've got into the third groove. Fortunately the holds are good small sharp things on the top quality Pavey rock. Top pitch is also a stunner. For what it's worth I agree with the 4b but the boldness makes it VS+ (not the VS- given in the guide).
with Pete Nugent
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
winst0n ?Jul, 2014 -
steve prior ?Jul, 2014 AltLd
with Andy C
with Andy C
twoplates 30 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Adam Milward
with Adam Milward
john max 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Jen Maxfield
with Jen Maxfield
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
erica 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Led top pitch.
with Dave Hunter
Led top pitch.
with Dave Hunter
Stuart Macfarlane 20 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Done in 2 pitches, I led 1st pitch.
with Jeanie
Done in 2 pitches, I led 1st pitch.
with Jeanie
redshapedfriday 17 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
judith neaves 15 Jun, 2014 2nd
Steve Lenartowicz 31 May, 2014 Lead
with Clare
with Clare
Hidden 31 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Swotson 31 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Very good.
with SteveX
Very good.
with SteveX
Bertbee 17 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Ben
with Ben
jbb 17 May, 2014 AltLd O/S I led p2. P3 was the best. Quite an interesting route but with slightly dirty rock in places.
I led p2. P3 was the best. Quite an interesting route but with slightly dirty rock in places.
Petarghh 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Bob Ashcroft 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Pete hill, bweaks
with Pete hill, bweaks
RM199 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
carl_123 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
pete40 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with martin
with martin
Hidden 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Martin Bennett 8 Aug, 2012 -
with AlanB, RA
with AlanB, RA
Conan ??, 2012 - Spent a bit of time cleaning this route. 1st full ascent of all 3 pitches
with Max Biden
Spent a bit of time cleaning this route. 1st full ascent of all 3 pitches
with Max Biden
rholdswo ?Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Oct, 1999 -
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 34
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set