Rockfax Description
A modern moderate classic. Well equipped and good positions. Start 80m right of Autoroute Blanche.
1) 5c, 2) 6a. Descend 15m from the top of pitch.
3) 5b, 4) 5c, 5) 5b, 6) 5c, 7) 5c, 8) 5b. From the top of the pitch, walk 50m up to the top of the gorge and look for a crack with the name of the route at the base (possible to exit here if you want to reduce the overall grade).
9) 5c, 10) 6a+, 11) 5b, 12) 5c. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
At last an easy route, thanks to Raoul. It basically follows the edge of the buttress right of Autoroute Blanche. To get to the start, follow the Autoroute Blanche approach but instead of turning left to the foot of this route, continue up the main Giétroz footpath (this official footpath now follows the climbers' footpath almost to the start of Autoroute as it became more defined than the path's original steep route!) for another 50 or so metres. Keep looking on your left and you'll see reddy/orange spray painted spots and the start of the route just next to the path (the original first pitch, which is now pitch three, is to be found some five minutes further up the path and is useful to bypass slow parties occupying the first two pitches). The second part of the route is reached by a short walk up towards the Gorge secteur of Giétroz.



An amended list of pitch grades looks like this: L1 - 5c, L2 - 5c+, L3 - 5a, L4 - 5c+, L5 - 5b, L6 - 5b, L7 - 5c, L8 - 5b, L9 - 5b, L10 - 6a+, L11 - 5b, L12 - 5c. Take a 50m rope and 12 quickdraws.

Raoul Crettenand Jun/2012.

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