UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is within Earls Hill Nature Reserve which is managed by Shropshire Wildlife Trust. The Trust have a positive view of climbing here providing that people are sensitive to the ecological interests of the site. In particular the scree slopes should be treated with care. No camping and no fires, please.

The 'Fifty Foot Wall' routes were cleaned up and extensively restored in early 2013, with the intention of giving climbers an alternative area if (as often happens) Peregrines choose to nest on the main crag. Feel free to go try these - you might actually like them...

In late 2013, the Wildlife Trust undertook some further vegetation clearance work, mainly of invasive trees on the scree slopes, but also of scrub on the rocks. The intent was to improve the cliff environment from the climbers' point of view, as it will allow more light and air to dry the rocks better.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 March to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines normally nest at Pontesford Rocks each year, with the nest site changing slightly from year to year. Site notices are normally placed on gates on the access track, and near the foot of the crag showing the extent of agreed restrictions, but as a general principle please avoid the whole crag (Main Buttress, The Needle and the Fifty Foot Wall) during the restricted period.

In 2020, we attempted to find a way to permit the use of some routes whilst closing others, but a number of incidents occurred which meant this was not really workable. This included one party who apparently abseiled right over the ledge with the nest and caused considerable consternation to the birds.

The Shropshire Wildlife Trust, The Shropshire Peregrine Group and the BMC would like to thank all climbers who have avoided the rocks during the 2020, 2021, 2022 and 2023 nesting seasons. There appear to have been chicks raised successfully in each of those years.In early 2024, the birds have been seen prospecting the site once again, and it looks like they've selected the same nest location that they've used successfully for the last couple of years - it is therefore necessary to impose the same seasonal restriction as mentioned above between early March and mid July.

25m.

Rockfax Description
Opinions on grade vary widely from HS to E1. Sustained with steady but bold climbing in places. Climb the slab without much prospect of gear until a break at 7m. From the top of the slab, pull left onto the hanging slab using a large pancake hold and move up to an awkward ledge. Pull direct through the overhang and climb a dirty wall to a thin grassy ledge just right of an oak tree. Move up and left behind the tree to an easy gully and nut belay a little higher. Scramble off right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
this climb is on the blank slab left of wall end slab. left to the route is a bush filled gully, climb the blank slab on small holds to a ledge at about 15ft up, keep left of gully then move left on to block, reach ledge under oak tree go left up crack trending left then up easy gully to finish on ledge.

chris full 20/Oct/2012.

Feedback

User Date Notes
PMackereth 2 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Some huge blocks of extremely loose rock (that doesn't necessarily appear so) at the top of the route, one 300kg block hurtled down without any provocation and nearly hit my belayer! Be very cautious about where you build your anchor at the top... Otherwise a fun route with interesting moves and not much gear
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βeta: Some huge blocks of extremely loose rock (that doesn't necessarily appear so) at the top of the route, one 300kg block hurtled down without any provocation and nearly hit my belayer! Be very cautious about where you build your anchor at the top... Otherwise a fun route with interesting moves and not much gear
Luke14 21 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Beware of the death block precariously balanced on the upper most, dead oak tree.
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βeta: Beware of the death block precariously balanced on the upper most, dead oak tree.

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