30m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best tufa climbs in the world! It's got everything; hands-off rests, back and footing, knee-bars, egyptians and a terrible name. 30m long and many fail at 29.5m so summon everything you have for the last move. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Mallorca: Top 50, Spain, Spring 2019, Mallorca

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UserDateNotes
dynoseb 18 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Crazy tufa fun!! Save some beans for the crimps just before the chains. I would recommend getting inventive with how you might rest on this. I remember sitting on a bulbus bit of tufa with my legs wrapped fully around it and getting a few chicken wings in to take the weight off, knee bars and back and footing.
 
Show beta
βeta: Crazy tufa fun!! Save some beans for the crimps just before the chains. I would recommend getting inventive with how you might rest on this. I remember sitting on a bulbus bit of tufa with my legs wrapped fully around it and getting a few chicken wings in to take the weight off, knee bars and back and footing.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
emmyyatagai 12 Oct TR dnf Best climb that I've ever tried and not finished. What a fantastic route filled with interesting moves and even more interesting rests. Will come back and do this one day...maybe even on lead.
Best climb that I've ever tried and not finished. What a fantastic route filled with interesting moves and even more interesting rests. Will come back and do this one day...maybe even on lead.
Hidden 12 Oct Lead dog
Adam Henderson 12 Oct Lead dnf Got quite high and hot super pumped. Too pumped and hot to keep going.
Got quite high and hot super pumped. Too pumped and hot to keep going.
m.powell02 12 Oct Lead dog What a route! Had the flash attempt stolen by a stupid foot-pop. Made it to 29.5m on the second go under the blazing afternoon sun but that last move is a stinger! This one should be on everyone's list.
What a route! Had the flash attempt stolen by a stupid foot-pop. Made it to 29.5m on the second go under the blazing afternoon sun but that last move is a stinger! This one should be on everyone's list.
DavidBone1 22 Jul -
Hidden 29 May Lead dnf
Dean177 21 May Lead O/S Really awesome! Lives up to the hype. Surprised so many people think it’s middle 7a, I have done many easier and the ending is pretty harsh!
with Ana_B
Really awesome! Lives up to the hype. Surprised so many people think it’s middle 7a, I have done many easier and the ending is pretty harsh!
with Ana_B
Hidden 28 Apr TR dog
Hidden 27 Apr Lead dog
igola 24 Apr Lead dog Amazing, amazing line, one of the most striking I have ever been on. Far from perfect conditions, way too hot. Would love to get on this again.
Amazing, amazing line, one of the most striking I have ever been on. Far from perfect conditions, way too hot. Would love to get on this again.
Emmett Arthur 16 Mar Lead dog
Dave Warburton 9 Mar Lead O/S Great. To Pa Ti was a poor warm up choice... Why is the belay 2m up a blank face?
with WNW
Great. To Pa Ti was a poor warm up choice... Why is the belay 2m up a blank face?
with WNW
Sam2257 28 Feb Lead RP Incredible.
Incredible.
Lillyz 22 Dec, 2018 Lead dog Excellent tufas! There’s a beautiful layback which is much easier than it looks. Nice rests at some points. Definitely pumpy, if like me 7a is your max lead level. Oh yes and it was wet and slimy in some critical areas but with determination and finding alternative holds, still doable! One to return to with better fitness and more time to do clean.. A very memorable climb!
Excellent tufas! There’s a beautiful layback which is much easier than it looks. Nice rests at some points. Definitely pumpy, if like me 7a is your max lead level. Oh yes and it was wet and slimy in some critical areas but with determination and finding alternative holds, still doable! One to return to with better fitness and more time to do clean.. A very memorable climb!
Charloam 22 Dec, 2018 Lead dnf 7 draws up, was near 8th but the side pull was far too terrifying as wet as it was too attempt to clip Dropped off the tufa I squatting on for a big fall and decided I'd given it a good enough go this time
with Lilly Zeitler
7 draws up, was near 8th but the side pull was far too terrifying as wet as it was too attempt to clip Dropped off the tufa I squatting on for a big fall and decided I'd given it a good enough go this time
with Lilly Zeitler
Hidden 9 Dec, 2018 Lead dnf
Hidden 9 Dec, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 4 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S
markfairbank 12 Oct, 2018 Lead dog Put the clips in and had a play on it. Didn’t go for the RP in the hot sun, didn’t think I’d have it in the tank. All there with decent stamina.
Put the clips in and had a play on it. Didn’t go for the RP in the hot sun, didn’t think I’d have it in the tank. All there with decent stamina.
hugo glover 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S I huffed and I puffed and ultimately I buffed
with Cas
I huffed and I puffed and ultimately I buffed
with Cas
George_Surf 20 Sep, 2018 Lead dog Hard! The start is sustained but you get a few good rests in to the halfway point. Above are more big pinch moves, poor rest on the blob. Thought I was going ok but pumped out trying to figure the long move to the last bolt. Dammit! The final move is ok, crimp and high feet to the jug. Way to boxed to go for round 2...
Hard! The start is sustained but you get a few good rests in to the halfway point. Above are more big pinch moves, poor rest on the blob. Thought I was going ok but pumped out trying to figure the long move to the last bolt. Dammit! The final move is ok, crimp and high feet to the jug. Way to boxed to go for round 2...
rachelpearce01 20 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S Should have tried leading it but was being a wimp and didn’t think I’d get on very well. Surprised to make the chains, managed to get lots of good tests and probably helped that I could fit behind tufas!
Should have tried leading it but was being a wimp and didn’t think I’d get on very well. Surprised to make the chains, managed to get lots of good tests and probably helped that I could fit behind tufas!
Hidden 15 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
ThomasB 7 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
shaunhumphreys 2 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Mar, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 3 Feb, 2018 Lead dnf
Mike W 25 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S
with Kitty27
with Kitty27
hankyc 19 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Jan, 2018 Lead dog
Matt Broadhurst 7 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
with Maynard
with Maynard
Aaron.Clifford 28 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S Fun stuff!
Fun stuff!
Hidden 12 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Stroppy 8 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
alexanderforsyth 5 Oct, 2017 Lead dog A 100% must climb! Probably the most exciting and hilarious 7a i've ever been on. It really does have everything! Fell 50cm from the end on the 2nd attempt, but didn't have time to try again to get it clean. Was expecting to fall at the end because of the guidebook description. Wish i hadn't read it :-/
A 100% must climb! Probably the most exciting and hilarious 7a i've ever been on. It really does have everything! Fell 50cm from the end on the 2nd attempt, but didn't have time to try again to get it clean. Was expecting to fall at the end because of the guidebook description. Wish i hadn't read it :-/
Jay-Ast 4 Oct, 2017 Lead RP
with Mick
with Mick
Hidden 22 Sep, 2017 Lead dog
JBO 21 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Emily Y 16 Apr, 2017 Lead
with Doris
with Doris
adi bryant 30 Mar, 2017 Lead dnf
Rachel Hoyland 30 Mar, 2017 Lead dnf
Sami.laakkonen 8 Jan, 2017 Lead dog Superb route! Not enough endurance yet...
with NoraIs
Superb route! Not enough endurance yet...
with NoraIs
Hidden 2 Jan, 2017 Lead dnf
dprctr 9 Dec, 2016 TR dog Sandbag.
Sandbag.
Tom.Priestley 26 Oct, 2016 TR dog ran out of puff at the top so had to take a rest. Awesome
ran out of puff at the top so had to take a rest. Awesome
AmyAmy 24 Oct, 2016 Lead dnf one for next year!!
one for next year!!
Hidden 18 Oct, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 16 Oct, 2016 Lead
Hidden 16 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
john lynch 12 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S So so good!
So so good!
andyinglis 30 Aug, 2016 Lead RP 2nd go, fun climbing, bit pumpy for warm up
with Monica
2nd go, fun climbing, bit pumpy for warm up
with Monica
dynoseb ?May, 2016 Lead β
Hidden 2 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
martinov 28 Mar, 2016 Lead dnf Will go next time I'm in Mallorca!
with Dani
Will go next time I'm in Mallorca!
with Dani
Adam Booth 17 Mar, 2016 Lead dog Pumped out of my mind! How can I be quite so terrible at finding rests?!
with alek
Pumped out of my mind! How can I be quite so terrible at finding rests?!
with alek
alek 17 Mar, 2016 Lead β
Nickc 3 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 31 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S
atapper21 ?Jan, 2016 Lead RP
with jolucas
with jolucas
jolucas ??, 2016 Lead RP
Martin Bagshaw 28 Dec, 2015 Lead dog Made it clean up to the penultimate clip, then came off with one foot slip. Took a couple goes to work out the last 50cm, so I wouldn't have made it anyway. One of the best routes I've done, though it could be a frustrating one to redpoint.
with Ed Green
Made it clean up to the penultimate clip, then came off with one foot slip. Took a couple goes to work out the last 50cm, so I wouldn't have made it anyway. One of the best routes I've done, though it could be a frustrating one to redpoint.
with Ed Green
Hidden ?Dec, 2015 -
islandlynx 25 Oct, 2015 Lead G/U Failed first go at 3 quarter height from pump. Got it clean second go with draws in. Hugged the biggest tufa blob and got a no hands rest elsewhere. More slopes than I was expecting. Great route. Big queue waiting to get on it.
with AmyAmy
Failed first go at 3 quarter height from pump. Got it clean second go with draws in. Hugged the biggest tufa blob and got a no hands rest elsewhere. More slopes than I was expecting. Great route. Big queue waiting to get on it.
with AmyAmy
dbrooks 24 Oct, 2015 Lead dog Monster route! Got close on 2nd attempt but not quite enough beans to finish on last day of the trip... One to come back for
Monster route! Got close on 2nd attempt but not quite enough beans to finish on last day of the trip... One to come back for
John Tanner 24 Oct, 2015 Lead dog Too much for the last day of the trip! Worth getting on though
with dbrooks
Too much for the last day of the trip! Worth getting on though
with dbrooks
tim newton 13 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 13 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Pumpy warmup!
Pumpy warmup!
RichyBOYY 11 Jun, 2015 Lead β
with Levon
with Levon
Melchior Meyer ?Mar, 2015 Lead dnf Apart from the tough line...to early in the season. It was raining from the tufas into my face and chalk bag.
with Jaime
Apart from the tough line...to early in the season. It was raining from the tufas into my face and chalk bag.
with Jaime
AlexD 29 Sep, 2014 Lead dog In a crazy thunderstorm, stayed dry in torrential rain, tho Sophie got wet belaying! Fell on a big reach near the top, too pumped to make the jump! Mega!
In a crazy thunderstorm, stayed dry in torrential rain, tho Sophie got wet belaying! Fell on a big reach near the top, too pumped to make the jump! Mega!
Duncan Campbell 24 May, 2014 Lead β YES! So tired, 6th day on I didn't think I'd have the beans to climb this route especially after seeing how far out from the crag Rob ended once lowering off. Milk the rests and its pretty steady away. Thank god the holds at the top are positive. Super classic.
YES! So tired, 6th day on I didn't think I'd have the beans to climb this route especially after seeing how far out from the crag Rob ended once lowering off. Milk the rests and its pretty steady away. Thank god the holds at the top are positive. Super classic.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 24 May, 2014 2nd
JCAshman ?May, 2014 Lead
Tom Smart 11 Apr, 2014 Lead dnf
with nathan crabb
with nathan crabb
emily_allen 31 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Amazing Climbing! Pumped for the tricky last move but managed to hold on :)
Amazing Climbing! Pumped for the tricky last move but managed to hold on :)
jsaric 27 Sep, 2013 -
Hidden 16 Sep, 2013 2nd RP
Hidden ?Apr, 2013 Lead dnf
chrisscutt ?Apr, 2013 Lead dog fell on last move, i'll be back!!
with ollie_e
fell on last move, i'll be back!!
with ollie_e
Rob Pitt 9 Nov, 2012 Lead dog
philhaigh 14 Oct, 2012 2nd dog
with Mike Hawkins, EddyYoung, Rob Kennard, nataliehaigh
with Mike Hawkins, EddyYoung, Rob Kennard, nataliehaigh
Hidden ?Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
JHM 28 Sep, 2012 Lead β
Hidden 1 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
Patrick Hill 28 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
oliver.ghill91 ?Jul, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 29 Feb, 2012 Lead RP
migs493 31 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Outstanding route for all aficionados of Tufa climbing. Definitely the best Tufa route I've ever done. 3 Stars is not enough.
with RS
Outstanding route for all aficionados of Tufa climbing. Definitely the best Tufa route I've ever done. 3 Stars is not enough.
with RS
Milne 19 May, 2011 Lead dog Led onsight to 7th bolt with rests on some bolts. Top roped the top after partner had onsighted the rest. Almost certainly the best route I have ever had the privelege to attempt. Maybe train like hell for re-aquaintance in two years. Awesome route and venue.
Led onsight to 7th bolt with rests on some bolts. Top roped the top after partner had onsighted the rest. Almost certainly the best route I have ever had the privelege to attempt. Maybe train like hell for re-aquaintance in two years. Awesome route and venue.
Hidden 19 May, 2011 TR dnf
Glenn Sutcliffe 31 Dec, 2010 -
with Charl
with Charl
Hidden 8 Nov, 2010 Lead RP
benbroche 13 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S 5 stars, a gift from God, one of the most memorable onsights I've had
5 stars, a gift from God, one of the most memorable onsights I've had
Nick Allan ?Apr, 2010 Lead dog reached 2nd to last bolt on second attempt before falling. Then climbed to top. Couldn't climb again as it was getting dark.
reached 2nd to last bolt on second attempt before falling. Then climbed to top. Couldn't climb again as it was getting dark.
Marti999 24 Mar, 2010 Lead RP on-sighted to 29.5m the go before :-(
on-sighted to 29.5m the go before :-(
beesleys 12 Dec, 2009 2nd dog
with ian llj
with ian llj
dswansonlow 19 Sep, 2009 2nd dog
with John Brown, jacobjlloyd
with John Brown, jacobjlloyd
JonBrown 19 Sep, 2009 2nd dog The B E S T tufa climb! period! This has to go clean!
with Christine
The B E S T tufa climb! period! This has to go clean!
with Christine
Hidden 16 Apr, 2009 Lead β
Glyn 19 Mar, 2009 Lead β
with derico
with derico
Jonny_86 19 Mar, 2009 Lead β Yeah good..
with Glyn
Yeah good..
with Glyn
derico 18 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S Good fun and managed five no hands rests!
Good fun and managed five no hands rests!
danoflynn 18 Mar, 2009 Lead dog
Andrew Barker 18 Mar, 2009 Lead β Got hideously pumped but managed it despite being crap at tufa climbing and having poor route fitness. Wore a headtorch as it was still light but well past sunset!
Got hideously pumped but managed it despite being crap at tufa climbing and having poor route fitness. Wore a headtorch as it was still light but well past sunset!
ChrisDavis ?Mar, 2009 Lead β
will9911 ?Mar, 2009 Lead β
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 12 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Tony Little 16 Apr, 2008 Lead dog Fell right at the top, d'oh! Too pumpy, and more importantly I was unfit.
with Darren
Fell right at the top, d'oh! Too pumpy, and more importantly I was unfit.
with Darren
Hidden 10 Apr, 2008 2nd dog
Ian Parnell ?Apr, 2007 Lead dog
with Ali Mynett
with Ali Mynett
Hidden 25 Mar, 2007 2nd dog
Hidden ?Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2003 -
whispering nic ?Apr, 2001 -
with The Wife
with The Wife
chrishedgehog 10 Feb, 2001 Lead dnf Sunstroke day as it turned out, hence not quite up to the full tick.
with Joe Thompson
Sunstroke day as it turned out, hence not quite up to the full tick.
with Joe Thompson
skygodley 9 Sep, 1999 Lead RP
with Ropeboy
with Ropeboy
Pete Wimbush ?Apr, 1999 Lead RP Fell of the last move last time I was here, so did it clean this time
with Steve Wade
Fell of the last move last time I was here, so did it clean this time
with Steve Wade
Roget 3 Nov, 1998 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Steve Crowe 18 Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Seymore Butt ??, 1995 Lead
Hidden ??, 1983 -
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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set