55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most popular line here follows the long grooveline which is gained by a steep and impressive start. The climbing is a bit unbalanced but the line and situation more than make up for this. Start below and right of the main grooveline.
1) 5a, 15m. Pull up and traverse left, then climb direct to the stance. All easier than it looks.
2) 5c, 32m. A technical little move up the slab above (microwires) gains the main groove. Follow this, trending leftwards at the top. A fine pitch. © Rockfax

FA. S.Lewis 10.10.79 10/Oct/1979

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The Best of Pembroke, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs.

Hidden 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Dynomite 28/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Chris
Kris2fa 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S

V glad to have micro wires

Tim Sparrow 26/Aug/17 2nd

In one pitch. Brilliant

with Geoff Graham, Ian Armstrong
Hidden 23/Jul/17 2nd
msoldn ??/2017 Lead O/S
with Thomasina
PaulTanton 29/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Hot day. Made the slab move hard.

with Liz
Dizz 29/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Paul Tanton
Lessworkmoreclimbing 29/Aug/16 Lead

Traversed along from Daydreams to reach pitch 2, led after seconding last week. Well protected but puzzling and really good. Strong fingers came in handy (thanks Beastmaker!) as could only fit 4th and 5th fingers in slot once cam was in place. Top groove not as straightforward on the lead either!

with Kev
Lessworkmoreclimbing 23/Aug/16 AltLd

Onsight. Led pitch 1 - the start looked intimidating but was dry and had protection. Moving up from the break was the crux and a little go-ey, wouldn't argue with E2 for this pitch. Second pitch is harder though - thin moves. Good gear but takes a little effort to place. Great route.

with Kev
pearson9596 28/May/16 AltLd O/S
ian d f 28/May/16 AltLd O/S
onlyfoddington 28/May/16 2nd O/S

A definite crux move after the belay, nice way to end the day.

with Michael, Ian
brices 26/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant, felt decidedly wobbly for the first Pembroke route of the year.

with Llinos
Sarah Black 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Excellent route with loads of great gear. P2 only as the ab rope wasn't quite long enough.

mattnuttall 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. That 5c move is genuinely quite tricky.

Andrew Wilson 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
sparbus 19/Jul/15 AltLd

Me pitch 1. Grabbed gear at crux of pitch 2.

with mike b
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

Very nice climbing. Thought the first pitch was really tough but that might have been a reach issue, glad I was on second though. Crux of the second pitch was placing the microwire - once it was in the move felt thin but alright.

with Andy
Hidden 05/May/15 AltLd O/S
Ian1987 04/Apr/15 2nd dog
markalmack 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

I thought this was better than Daydreams

with ian
phil64 ??/2015 -
Gary Gibson ??/2015 -
Jacob Phillips ??/2015 Lead
Apharri 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

I lead 1

Graeme Hammond 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Excellent, led P2, thin start but easy after.

with Jim
Jim Slater 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Steven Carter 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Ollie B 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Did it in 1 long pitch

with B.Brewer
Andrew1 12/Apr/14 AltLd
with Hulda
Hulda 12/Apr/14 AltLd
with Andi
Wood for Trees 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S

only top pitch as tide was in, hard start!

with DJ Malx
mike mo ??/2014 -
Ed morris 06/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch.

with Adam Bevan
Hidden 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
soph 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 12/Aug/13 2nd β
Hidden 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Tide coming in added to an eerie experience

stuart34 26/May/13 AltLd O/S


with mike thomas
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 29/Mar/13 2nd

COLD! Rob crushed it with a set of cams and some microwires after we (I) forgot we had split the rack and that I had the wires. Last time I do that. Good, and tricky climbing, especially in the icey wind!

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 29/Mar/13 Lead
jcw ??/2013 -
al99 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Great route, the crux on pitch two with the single microwire protection (and the bold moves above) make this E2 I think. The 1st pitch is 5b.

with Luke Thomas
Cardi 31/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 - quite big, steep and bold moves until a thread is reached. Maybe a couple of 5b moves to get to the belay too. Start of second pitch is a big contrast to most routes in Pembroke! Great route overall.

with Tom R
Ed Booth 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

One pitch.

Adam Booth 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S
haydng 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Dave
switch 01/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with David B-St L, Haydn
Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
jgordon75 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S


Owen W-G 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Thin crux. No real selection of micronuts needed, just one 3/4 nut.

with Jim
robw007 30/Jul/11 Lead β

In the rain - nearly an epic!

dan gibson 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

finished up Year of the Cat. Good alternative.

with richard lade
duncan 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
Dan Lane 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led P1, proberbly 5b. The route as a whole is E2.

with Richard and Maria
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
duncana 28/Aug/10 2nd

Pleased to do ok on this; just one pull on a quickdraw at start of second pitch.

with Pippa Archer
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead
irish paul 02/May/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

with Dave Ripley
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
cymjt ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
clipskipper 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Davey Boy
Paul Evans 05/Sep/09 AltLd
with spacey
spacey 05/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 09/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 27/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?/May/09 -
with Paul Donnithorne
feilx 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy L
Castleclimber 14/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Led first (soft) pitch.

lukea 14/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Rich
Paz 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with TS
tom.e 28/May/06 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 17/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
david morse ?/Aug/05 Lead
with rampant
cem 30/Apr/05 AltLd O/S

Led p2

Hidden 02/May/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead rpt
pete johnson 06/Apr/02 Lead
with Paul Donnithorne
Tim M ??/2000 -
Chad123 ??/2000 -
Boy ??/2000 -
jfletcher 31/May/99 AltLd
with David Lyons
WB ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Guy
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/98 AltLd
with Hugh
NeilGriffiths 16/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Neil Nussey
phardman ??/1997 -
snowcat 08/Sep/96 2nd
with Chris Schiller
Hidden 06/Apr/96 AltLd
craig h ?/Apr/96 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ??/1996 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
Steve Clegg 07/Oct/95 Lead
with Mrs C
Hidden 28/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
pauldrew ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
AlanLittle 20/Aug/94 Lead
with Rob Allen
Hidden 28/Aug/93 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/93 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/93 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jul/92 Lead O/S
mikej 17/Jun/92 AltLd
with Mike Byles
keefe 27/Sep/91 -
whispering nic 03/Aug/91 Lead
with Graham Iles
Greg Cunningham 01/Jun/90 -
Bullybones ??/1990 -
Andy Edgar ??/1990 2nd
with Hugh Woodland
Dave Rumney 01/Aug/89 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/89 Lead
Eduardo Martinez ?/May/89 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 01/Aug/88 Lead
with Terry Johnston
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Apr/88 Lead
with Phil Baker
Steve Crowe 02/Apr/88 2nd O/S
PaulTanton ?/Apr/88 AltLd O/S
wynaptomos ?/Oct/87 Lead O/S
Neil McA 25/Jul/87 2nd O/S
with Cosmic John, Mad Martin Salisbury
Mike Owen 24/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
DDDD ??/1987 AltLd
with Gary Crocker
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Brian Wilderspin 02/Jun/86 AltLd O/S
with Perric Crellin
ukb & bmc shark 06/Apr/86 AltLd
with Phill Dickens
Hidden ??/1986 -
Hidden 16/Aug/85 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jul/85 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/85 -
Derek Furze ??/1985 AltLd
with Rick
Derek Furze ??/1985 AltLd
with Rick
Mark Kemball 24/Jul/83 2nd
with Dave Abbey
Hidden 28/Mar/82 Lead
Hidden ??/1982 AltLd
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
robinsi197 ??/1980 AltLd
with Barbara
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Steve Lewis 16/Jun/79 Lead O/S
with Charlie
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 35
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set