Rockfax Description
The most popular line here follows the long groove-line which is gained by a steep and impressive start. The climbing is a bit unbalanced but the line and situation more than make up for this. Start below and right of the main groove-line.
1) 5a, 15m. Pull up and traverse left, then climb direct to the stance. All easier than it looks.
2) 5c, 32m. A technical little move up the slab above (micro wires) gains the main groove. Follow this, trending leftwards at the top. A fine pitch. © Rockfax
FA. S.Lewis, C.Heard 10/Oct/1979.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E1 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , UK Holiday Plans , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , Pembs '21 , 50 Extemes at 50
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| ClimbingAlex | 15 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Did this in a oner, would recommend pitching it in two, the rope drag at the top was horrendous! | ||
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βeta: Did this in a oner, would recommend pitching it in two, the rope drag at the top was horrendous! |
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| aiyer | 4 May, 2019 |
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βeta: E2 5c in the new guidebook | βeta? | |
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βeta: E2 5c in the new guidebook |
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| Frank the Husky | 19 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: There's no block these days, so the start is pretty steep and intimidating. | ||
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βeta: There's no block these days, so the start is pretty steep and intimidating. |
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| Alun | 18 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: The crux moves aren't too difficult but feel very slippery and insecure for E1. Protection is okay. The remainder is a pleasing romp with a marvellous step out onto the slab higher up. | ||
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βeta: The crux moves aren't too difficult but feel very slippery and insecure for E1. Protection is okay. The remainder is a pleasing romp with a marvellous step out onto the slab higher up. |
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| Chad123 | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: First pitch has a few steep pulls for 5a, no block to step off any more? Good pitch thjough very unbalanced, almost E2 for a few moves, then VS corner to the top! | ||
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βeta: First pitch has a few steep pulls for 5a, no block to step off any more? Good pitch thjough very unbalanced, almost E2 for a few moves, then VS corner to the top! |
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| craig h | 11 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Excellent route, if I remember right the technical little move is protected with small wires? & RP's. All routes here are effected by the tides so worth leaving an abseil rope in place. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, if I remember right the technical little move is protected with small wires? & RP's. All routes here are effected by the tides so worth leaving an abseil rope in place. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mewsford Point
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The Soup Dragon
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Saddle Bay)