55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most popular line here follows the long grooveline which is gained by a steep and impressive start. The climbing is a bit unbalanced but the line and situation more than make up for this. Start below and right of the main grooveline.
1) 5a, 15m. Pull up and traverse left, then climb direct to the stance. All easier than it looks.
2) 5c, 32m. A technical little move up the slab above (microwires) gains the main groove. Follow this, trending leftwards at the top. A fine pitch. © Rockfax

FA. S.Lewis 10.10.79 10/Oct/1979

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The Best of Pembroke, 101Pembroke Extremes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, UK Holiday Plans

Feedback

UserDateNotes
ClimbingAlex 15 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Did this in a oner, would recommend pitching it in two, the rope drag at the top was horrendous!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this in a oner, would recommend pitching it in two, the rope drag at the top was horrendous!
aiyer 4 May Show βeta
βeta: E2 5c in the new guidebook
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E2 5c in the new guidebook
Frank the Husky 19 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: There's no block these days, so the start is pretty steep and intimidating.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's no block these days, so the start is pretty steep and intimidating.
Alun 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The crux moves aren't too difficult but feel very slippery and insecure for E1. Protection is okay. The remainder is a pleasing romp with a marvellous step out onto the slab higher up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crux moves aren't too difficult but feel very slippery and insecure for E1. Protection is okay. The remainder is a pleasing romp with a marvellous step out onto the slab higher up.
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch has a few steep pulls for 5a, no block to step off any more? Good pitch thjough very unbalanced, almost E2 for a few moves, then VS corner to the top!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch has a few steep pulls for 5a, no block to step off any more? Good pitch thjough very unbalanced, almost E2 for a few moves, then VS corner to the top!
craig h 11 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, if I remember right the technical little move is protected with small wires? & RP's. All routes here are effected by the tides so worth leaving an abseil rope in place.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, if I remember right the technical little move is protected with small wires? & RP's. All routes here are effected by the tides so worth leaving an abseil rope in place.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
ClimbingAlex 13 Jul Lead dog Forgot my chalk bag, and no amount of wiping my hands on my shorts could stem damp hands. Needed a second go to commit to the crux.
Forgot my chalk bag, and no amount of wiping my hands on my shorts could stem damp hands. Needed a second go to commit to the crux.
LJKing 5 May 2nd O/S Failed on first pitch. Steep, bold and not well protected. E2 5b. Its not easier than it looks as Rockfax says. Its as hard as it looks! Must have been easier with the block. Top pitch was brilliant. We had the crag to ourselves!
with Paul Clarkson
Failed on first pitch. Steep, bold and not well protected. E2 5b. Its not easier than it looks as Rockfax says. Its as hard as it looks! Must have been easier with the block. Top pitch was brilliant. We had the crag to ourselves!
with Paul Clarkson
Kev Little 4 May AltLd rpt
with aiyer
with aiyer
aiyer 4 May AltLd O/S E2 5c in the new book...and I would agree. Lead P2
E2 5c in the new book...and I would agree. Lead P2
Mike_Hayes 20 Apr AltLd
treesrockice 20 Apr AltLd O/S L P1.
with Mike Hayes
L P1.
with Mike Hayes
tobydunford 6 Apr AltLd O/S
with Oli
with Oli
Tomar 6 Apr AltLd O/S
fatboyslimfast ?? -
mrblack ?? -
Freshprintce 25 Aug, 2018 Lead β
Petar Samkov 18 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Being Gay basically.
Being Gay basically.
chris wyatt 18 Aug, 2018 AltLd dog done in mizzle. not ideal for technical slab moves. will be back.
done in mizzle. not ideal for technical slab moves. will be back.
JendeHoxar 17 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 17 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S In the smeg..
In the smeg..
Pete Wimbush 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd Led pitch 1.
with Paul Wood
Led pitch 1.
with Paul Wood
Martin Bagshaw 1 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Meh
Meh
Wil Treasure 1 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Not a 3 star route. Worthwhile.
Not a 3 star route. Worthwhile.
Hidden 22 Jun, 2018 2nd rpt
Hidden 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Dynomite 28 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with Kris2fa
with Kris2fa
Kris2fa 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S V glad to have micro wires
V glad to have micro wires
Tim Sparrow 26 Aug, 2017 2nd In one pitch. Brilliant
with Geoff Graham, Ian Armstrong
In one pitch. Brilliant
with Geoff Graham, Ian Armstrong
Hidden 23 Jul, 2017 2nd
msoldn ??, 2017 Lead O/S
with Thomasina
with Thomasina
PaulTanton 29 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt Hot day. Made the slab move hard.
with Liz
Hot day. Made the slab move hard.
with Liz
Dizz 29 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Paul Tanton
with Paul Tanton
pearson9596 28 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
ian d f 28 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
onlyfoddington 28 May, 2016 2nd O/S A definite crux move after the belay, nice way to end the day.
A definite crux move after the belay, nice way to end the day.
brices 26 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Brilliant, felt decidedly wobbly for the first Pembroke route of the year.
Brilliant, felt decidedly wobbly for the first Pembroke route of the year.
Sarah Black 5 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Excellent route with loads of great gear. P2 only as the ab rope wasn't quite long enough.
Excellent route with loads of great gear. P2 only as the ab rope wasn't quite long enough.
mattnuttall 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P2. That 5c move is genuinely quite tricky.
Lead P2. That 5c move is genuinely quite tricky.
Andrew Wilson 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
with Matt Nuttall
sparbus 19 Jul, 2015 AltLd Me pitch 1. Grabbed gear at crux of pitch 2.
with FedUp
Me pitch 1. Grabbed gear at crux of pitch 2.
with FedUp
Hidden 23 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 23 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Very nice climbing. Thought the first pitch was really tough but that might have been a reach issue, glad I was on second though. Crux of the second pitch was placing the microwire - once it was in the move felt thin but alright.
with Pagan
Very nice climbing. Thought the first pitch was really tough but that might have been a reach issue, glad I was on second though. Crux of the second pitch was placing the microwire - once it was in the move felt thin but alright.
with Pagan
Hidden 5 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Ian1987 4 Apr, 2015 2nd dog
markalmack 4 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S I thought this was better than Daydreams
with Ian1987
I thought this was better than Daydreams
with Ian1987
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Gary Gibson ??, 2015 -
Jacob Phillips ??, 2015 Lead
Apharri 28 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S I lead 1
I lead 1
Graeme Hammond 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Excellent, led P2, thin start but easy after.
Excellent, led P2, thin start but easy after.
Jim Slater 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1
Led P1
Steven Carter 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
pipof747 ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Ollie B 18 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Did it in 1 long pitch
with B.Brewer
Did it in 1 long pitch
with B.Brewer
Andrew1 12 Apr, 2014 AltLd
with Hulda
with Hulda
Hulda 12 Apr, 2014 AltLd
with Andrew1
with Andrew1
Hidden 29 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Ed morris 6 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Led crux pitch.
with Adam Bevan
Led crux pitch.
with Adam Bevan
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
soph 24 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 12 Aug, 2013 2nd β
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Tide coming in added to an eerie experience
Tide coming in added to an eerie experience
stuart34 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S P2
with mike thomas
P2
with mike thomas
Hidden 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 29 Mar, 2013 2nd COLD! Rob crushed it with a set of cams and some microwires after we (I) forgot we had split the rack and that I had the wires. Last time I do that. Good, and tricky climbing, especially in the icey wind!
COLD! Rob crushed it with a set of cams and some microwires after we (I) forgot we had split the rack and that I had the wires. Last time I do that. Good, and tricky climbing, especially in the icey wind!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 29 Mar, 2013 Lead
jcw ??, 2013 -
al99 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Great route, the crux on pitch two with the single microwire protection (and the bold moves above) make this E2 I think. The 1st pitch is 5b.
with Luke Thomas
Great route, the crux on pitch two with the single microwire protection (and the bold moves above) make this E2 I think. The 1st pitch is 5b.
with Luke Thomas
Cardi 31 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1 - quite big, steep and bold moves until a thread is reached. Maybe a couple of 5b moves to get to the belay too. Start of second pitch is a big contrast to most routes in Pembroke! Great route overall.
Led P1 - quite big, steep and bold moves until a thread is reached. Maybe a couple of 5b moves to get to the belay too. Start of second pitch is a big contrast to most routes in Pembroke! Great route overall.
Ed Booth 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S One pitch.
One pitch.
Adam Booth 6 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
haydng 1 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Dave
with Dave
Si Witcher 1 Apr, 2012 2nd rpt
with David B-St L, haydng
with David B-St L, haydng
Bob ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
jgordon75 19 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S p1
p1
Owen W-G 19 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P2. Thin crux. No real selection of micronuts needed, just one 3/4 nut.
Led P2. Thin crux. No real selection of micronuts needed, just one 3/4 nut.
robw007 30 Jul, 2011 Lead β In the rain - nearly an epic!
In the rain - nearly an epic!
dan gibson 23 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S finished up Year of the Cat. Good alternative.
with richard lade
finished up Year of the Cat. Good alternative.
with richard lade
duncan 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Marcus ??, 2011 -
Dan Lane 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S I led P1, proberbly 5b. The route as a whole is E2.
with Richard and Maria
I led P1, proberbly 5b. The route as a whole is E2.
with Richard and Maria
Hidden 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
duncana 28 Aug, 2010 2nd Pleased to do ok on this; just one pull on a quickdraw at start of second pitch.
with Pippa Archer
Pleased to do ok on this; just one pull on a quickdraw at start of second pitch.
with Pippa Archer
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
ajtay 16 May, 2010 Lead 1 pitch - lots of long extenders, but a much better way of doing it. Why stop?
with Dom W
1 pitch - lots of long extenders, but a much better way of doing it. Why stop?
with Dom W
irish paul 2 May, 2010 AltLd O/S 2nd pitch
with Dave Ripley
2nd pitch
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 2 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
cymjt ??, 2010 -
Seymore Butt ??, 2010 Lead
clipskipper 12 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with Davey Boy
with Davey Boy
Paul Evans 5 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with spacey
with spacey
spacey 5 Sep, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 9 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 9 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
with loundsy
with loundsy
Hidden 27 Jun, 2009 2nd
chris m fisher 27 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dan M
with Dan M
pete johnson ?May, 2009 -
with Paul Donnithorne
with Paul Donnithorne
feilx 13 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
Castleclimber 14 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S Led first (soft) pitch.
with lukea
Led first (soft) pitch.
with lukea
lukea 14 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jun, 2006 2nd
Paz 25 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
tom.e 28 May, 2006 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 17 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
david morse ?Aug, 2005 Lead
with rampant
with rampant
cem 30 Apr, 2005 AltLd O/S Led p2
with GrahamD
Led p2
with GrahamD
Hidden 2 May, 2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2004 Lead rpt
pete johnson 6 Apr, 2002 Lead
with Paul Donnithorne
with Paul Donnithorne
Tim M ??, 2000 -
Chad123 ??, 2000 -
Boy ??, 2000 -
jfletcher 31 May, 1999 AltLd
with David Lyons
with David Lyons
WB ??, 1999 Lead O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
Rich Kirby ?Apr, 1998 AltLd
NeilGriffiths 16 Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
with Neil Nussey
with Neil Nussey
phardman ??, 1997 -
snowcat 8 Sep, 1996 2nd
with Chris Schiller
with Chris Schiller
Hidden 6 Apr, 1996 AltLd
craig h ?Apr, 1996 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ??, 1996 Lead
Hidden ??, 1996 Lead
Steve Clegg 7 Oct, 1995 Lead
with Mrs C
with Mrs C
Hidden 28 Aug, 1995 AltLd O/S
Davros the Psyched ??, 1995 -
keefe ??, 1995 -
pauldrew ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
AlanLittle 20 Aug, 1994 Lead
with Rob Allen
with Rob Allen
MikePycroft 28 Aug, 1993 AltLd
MikePycroft 28 Aug, 1993 AltLd
steveb2006 28 Aug, 1993 AltLd Lead top pitch. Failed in Idle Threats due to wet rock.
Lead top pitch. Failed in Idle Threats due to wet rock.
D Tempest 12 May, 1993 AltLd O/S
with Rick
with Rick
Hidden 27 Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
mikej 17 Jun, 1992 AltLd
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
keefe 27 Sep, 1991 -
whispering nic 3 Aug, 1991 Lead
with Graham Iles
with Graham Iles
Greg Cunningham 1 Jun, 1990 -
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Andy Edgar ??, 1990 2nd
with Hugh Woodland
with Hugh Woodland
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Dave Rumney 1 Aug, 1989 AltLd
Hidden 24 Jun, 1989 Lead
Eduardo Martinez ?May, 1989 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 1 Aug, 1988 Lead
with Terry Johnston
with Terry Johnston
Alan James - UKC and UKH 5 Apr, 1988 Lead
with Phil Baker
with Phil Baker
Steve Crowe 2 Apr, 1988 2nd O/S
PaulTanton ?Apr, 1988 AltLd O/S
wynaptomos ?Oct, 1987 Lead O/S
Neil McA 25 Jul, 1987 2nd O/S
with Cosmic John, Mad Martin Salisbury
with Cosmic John, Mad Martin Salisbury
Mike Owen 24 Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
DDDD ??, 1987 AltLd
with Gary Crocker
with Gary Crocker
andy gittins ??, 1987 -
Brian Wilderspin 2 Jun, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
UKB Shark 6 Apr, 1986 AltLd
with Phill Dickens
with Phill Dickens
Hidden ??, 1986 -
Hidden 16 Aug, 1985 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jul, 1985 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 1985 -
Derek Furze ??, 1985 AltLd
with Rick
with Rick
Robmwatt ??, 1985 - Date ?
Date ?
Derek Furze ??, 1985 AltLd
with Rick
with Rick
Mark Kemball 24 Jul, 1983 2nd
with Dave Abbey
with Dave Abbey
Hidden 28 Mar, 1982 Lead
Hidden ??, 1982 AltLd
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
robinsi197 ??, 1980 AltLd
with Barbara
with Barbara
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Steve Lewis 16 Jun, 1979 Lead O/S
with Charlie
with Charlie
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 37
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set