Due to the tilted nature of the huge rock platform at the base of the cliff, retreat from routes on the SW and S faces is only possible for 2 - 3 hours before or after low tide. Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed. A large rock fall has affected some routes left of Surprise Attack.
2018 - another large rockfall has removed parts of routes in the 'Seafarers' area on the west side of the point.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seaonal Restriction due to chough nesting: 'Nightmare on Lily Street' to 'Brain Drain' inclusive. This includes the Route 'Daydreams'.
Rockfax Description
This interesting route follows the right-hand wall of the Surprise Attack corner finishing in a good position on the large blunt arete.
1) 5b, 12m. Climb straight up from the starting block of Surprise Attack, via a groove, to a belay on the break.
2) 6a, 32m. Climb boldly straight up above the stance to a point 5m below the roof. Traverse left to a crack and pull through the roof just right of Surprise Attack. Tiptoe rightwards above the roof and climb a thin flake crack on the left-hand side of the arete. From the next break move up the arete above to the top. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson, M.Ward 06/Apr/1985.
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Grade: E3 5b ***
(Mount Sion West)