45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb to the left of the ever-popular Blue Sky making the most of the steep rock to the left of its upper section.
1) 4c, 26m. Start as for Blue Sky but continue leftwards up the long groove to a ledge and small cave to belay.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb two grooves in the wall above to the top roof. Pull left around this and continue to the top in a fine position. © Rockfax

J Harwood, M Rhodes 01/Mar/1980

Ticklists

Pembroke VDiff-HVS, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
pearson9596 5 May Lead O/S
with Mel
with Mel
CarlaJG 21 Apr 2nd Scariest thing we've ever done in Pembroke. Slabs stacked up on top of each other to form an overhanging lap of blocks. Sloppers, no decent feet, super sharp rock at the top with the rop running over it. Terrifying. If that was the correct way to go it was not 4c!
Scariest thing we've ever done in Pembroke. Slabs stacked up on top of each other to form an overhanging lap of blocks. Sloppers, no decent feet, super sharp rock at the top with the rop running over it. Terrifying. If that was the correct way to go it was not 4c!
timrooker 21 Apr Lead O/S just the top pitch following blue sky p1, route itself is not massively clear but whatever we did was absolutely desperate, definitely more than hvs 4c
with CarlaJG
just the top pitch following blue sky p1, route itself is not massively clear but whatever we did was absolutely desperate, definitely more than hvs 4c
with CarlaJG
WillGW 6 Apr AltLd O/S Went to do Blue sky and thought we had until we checked the guide at the top and realised we'd gone the wrong way and ended up on Eaves Dripper. Still had a great time. Hugo lead the first pitch. I lead the second. The climb got pretty committing two thirds of the way up and ended up running it out through the crux, but made it a very satisfying and exciting finish.
Went to do Blue sky and thought we had until we checked the guide at the top and realised we'd gone the wrong way and ended up on Eaves Dripper. Still had a great time. Hugo lead the first pitch. I lead the second. The climb got pretty committing two thirds of the way up and ended up running it out through the crux, but made it a very satisfying and exciting finish.
Fallow 25 Aug, 2018 2nd
andy_pemberton 6 Aug, 2018 2nd So good. In one pitch from the high tide belay.
with Steve Gibson
So good. In one pitch from the high tide belay.
with Steve Gibson
JGriffiths 15 Jun, 2018 Lead dog 2nd pitch only after a bit of an epic getting ropes stuck, prusiking up and leading out on 1 half rope. Followed the line as per the rockfax guide which was definitely harder than 4c and very committing. Had to rest on my gear
2nd pitch only after a bit of an epic getting ropes stuck, prusiking up and leading out on 1 half rope. Followed the line as per the rockfax guide which was definitely harder than 4c and very committing. Had to rest on my gear
Andy Chubb 10 Jun, 2018 TR O/S Abbed in to do Blue Sky but it was dripping wet, so decided to top rope out. However I could not follow the line of Blue Sky as the ropes were the wrong side of the top bulge, so had to do this instead. It went fine until the top 15 feet to the left of the bulge, which were also very wet and on thin holds. Could be 5a if dry, but felt harder
with Saxon Ridley
Abbed in to do Blue Sky but it was dripping wet, so decided to top rope out. However I could not follow the line of Blue Sky as the ropes were the wrong side of the top bulge, so had to do this instead. It went fine until the top 15 feet to the left of the bulge, which were also very wet and on thin holds. Could be 5a if dry, but felt harder
with Saxon Ridley
Droyd 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S P1
P1
Ilia Nadyrbayev 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S Did this by accident instead of Blue Sky, I think. Don’t know what I did but it was terrifying at the crux and considerably harder than HVS, making my way directly through the roof to avoid rope drag.
Did this by accident instead of Blue Sky, I think. Don’t know what I did but it was terrifying at the crux and considerably harder than HVS, making my way directly through the roof to avoid rope drag.
ManuelS 5 May, 2018 2nd O/S
JadeHollick 5 May, 2018 2nd
Kemics 29 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S I led first pitch, nice comfy ledge belay like an arm chair to watch the waves. First pitch straight forward. Nick had an epic on top pitch and when I got there I understood why. Top moves are nails. I double checked the topo from rockfax and we did the line exact line (belay is marked slightly too low) top moves around roof as per rockfax is solid 5b. Maybe still hvs as good gear but definite 5b. Crazy that both pitches given same grade, totally different experiences
I led first pitch, nice comfy ledge belay like an arm chair to watch the waves. First pitch straight forward. Nick had an epic on top pitch and when I got there I understood why. Top moves are nails. I double checked the topo from rockfax and we did the line exact line (belay is marked slightly too low) top moves around roof as per rockfax is solid 5b. Maybe still hvs as good gear but definite 5b. Crazy that both pitches given same grade, totally different experiences
nickwhimster 29 Oct, 2017 AltLd dog made a meal of the top section, done before as well :-(
with Kemics
made a meal of the top section, done before as well :-(
with Kemics
Emma Charters 23 Sep, 2017 2nd
Hidden 23 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
edwards_nicholas 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd dog We followed the rockfax line, I think the leftwards finish was incorrect, it felt like 5b and I exited right after 3 falls which is the route taken in the definitive guide for a route with a different name. Wrongfax?
with NinaR
We followed the rockfax line, I think the leftwards finish was incorrect, it felt like 5b and I exited right after 3 falls which is the route taken in the definitive guide for a route with a different name. Wrongfax?
with NinaR
NinaR 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Epic fail on trying to follow a photo :( One move I did definitely wasn't 4c and we ended up finishing to the right. Also need to consider the gear in a hanging belay better!
Epic fail on trying to follow a photo :( One move I did definitely wasn't 4c and we ended up finishing to the right. Also need to consider the gear in a hanging belay better!
Hidden 28 May, 2017 Lead
Hidden 18 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Lottie Green 2 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S Incredibly fun route! My first sea cliff ab and I loved it. Started slightly up from the bottom due to tides and took a rather more right route which bumped the grade up to roughly E1 5b imo. The irony of going the alternative route to the alternative route of Blue Sky is not lost.
Incredibly fun route! My first sea cliff ab and I loved it. Started slightly up from the bottom due to tides and took a rather more right route which bumped the grade up to roughly E1 5b imo. The irony of going the alternative route to the alternative route of Blue Sky is not lost.
kierankeavy 2 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead P1
Lead P1
steve-grigg 2 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Ended up doing the Rockfax version of the route (even though i was going off the CC book), starting from the higher start above the waves. First pitch was great fun on the technical slab/arête. Pitch 2 was good, till the move left under the roof when it became great, defiantly not HVS 4c, would go as far as saying E1 5b, but that may just be my dodgy shoulder talking.
Ended up doing the Rockfax version of the route (even though i was going off the CC book), starting from the higher start above the waves. First pitch was great fun on the technical slab/arête. Pitch 2 was good, till the move left under the roof when it became great, defiantly not HVS 4c, would go as far as saying E1 5b, but that may just be my dodgy shoulder talking.
wnicholson 2 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf
petecallaghan 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 6 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Joemanglerocks 2 Jul, 2016 Lead From mid-height belay but moved right from under the top bulge. Confused as to exactly what route I have actually climbed...
From mid-height belay but moved right from under the top bulge. Confused as to exactly what route I have actually climbed...
TimKnight 2 Jul, 2016 2nd CC version from mid-height belay above the waves... aiming for Blue Sky
CC version from mid-height belay above the waves... aiming for Blue Sky
Graeme Hammond 26 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Led in one big pitch from refuge ledge. Good climbing but no idea really were I was going. The lack of a proper line distracts from the route as I could have climbed anywhere. CC guide vs Rockfax descriptions also seem to be confusing and different and pitch lengths in CC are wildly out. Shame it started to rain properly after I topped out so we didn't get any more routes in.
Led in one big pitch from refuge ledge. Good climbing but no idea really were I was going. The lack of a proper line distracts from the route as I could have climbed anywhere. CC guide vs Rockfax descriptions also seem to be confusing and different and pitch lengths in CC are wildly out. Shame it started to rain properly after I topped out so we didn't get any more routes in.
Bradbury 26 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S Graeme led as one pitch as started raining
Graeme led as one pitch as started raining
Hidden 28 May, 2016 2nd
pipof747 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Trobbo 8 May, 2016 2nd
with dave cundy
with dave cundy
DubyaJamesDubya 23 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
with Ian Smith
Hidden 31 Oct, 2015 Lead
AnitaClimb 31 Oct, 2015 2nd
with Spooner , Zenjen, Francis Charlesworth, Sammy
with Spooner , Zenjen, Francis Charlesworth, Sammy
mike.moss 5 Sep, 2015 Lead
benwmorgan 5 Sep, 2015 2nd β
Hidden 2 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Dervey 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Liam
with Liam
felixizzy 6 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Only did pitch two cause the sea was choppy didn't want to commit to going any lower. I thought this route was pretty sketchy, didn't think the gear was that great and from the rib just before the crux didn't manage to place another runner as the holds felt pretty insecure and figured it was better to just keep moving. It did put a large grin on my face when I topped out though.
with Trip
Only did pitch two cause the sea was choppy didn't want to commit to going any lower. I thought this route was pretty sketchy, didn't think the gear was that great and from the rib just before the crux didn't manage to place another runner as the holds felt pretty insecure and figured it was better to just keep moving. It did put a large grin on my face when I topped out though.
with Trip
CRiddiford 5 Apr, 2015 AltLd
Jake Young 5 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 25 Oct, 2014 Lead Abseiled in to do Blue Sky in strong wind and heavy sea. Started from belay and went to far left and finished up this. Will go back to do Blue Sky next summer
Abseiled in to do Blue Sky in strong wind and heavy sea. Started from belay and went to far left and finished up this. Will go back to do Blue Sky next summer
Hidden 25 Oct, 2014 2nd O/S
Geras 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd lead pitch 2
with Nick
lead pitch 2
with Nick
Coops_13 7 Jun, 2014 Lead dog Abbed down the wrong line, prussiked up the ab rope round the crux
with Joe Seymour
Abbed down the wrong line, prussiked up the ab rope round the crux
with Joe Seymour
Dan Hostford 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Put the abseil in the wrong place so ended up hanging in free space then and had jump across the top of the waves. Me and Maddie then proceeded to get lost and accidentally did this instead of blue sky. Was fun though.
with Maddie
Put the abseil in the wrong place so ended up hanging in free space then and had jump across the top of the waves. Me and Maddie then proceeded to get lost and accidentally did this instead of blue sky. Was fun though.
with Maddie
Maddie 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Maybe climbed this?? Who knows really. Me and Dan had a bit of a mega faff but was good fun
Maybe climbed this?? Who knows really. Me and Dan had a bit of a mega faff but was good fun
Big Lee 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd Led the first pitch. The slab leading to the belay would have been very bold were it not for brasses. Murilo went totally off-route on the second pitch. Started up the groove to the right and then traversed a long way left to an escape point. Still fun via this route with plenty of exposure and probably the same grade. Started from the wave-washed platform.
Led the first pitch. The slab leading to the belay would have been very bold were it not for brasses. Murilo went totally off-route on the second pitch. Started up the groove to the right and then traversed a long way left to an escape point. Still fun via this route with plenty of exposure and probably the same grade. Started from the wave-washed platform.
Murilo Lessa 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead 2nd pitch. Got lost on the 2nd groove and ended up doing a cool traverse.
with Lee Harisson
Lead 2nd pitch. Got lost on the 2nd groove and ended up doing a cool traverse.
with Lee Harisson
joe gallacher 21 Jul, 2013 2nd Easy lead for Chris so he wandered about looking for somewhat more "interesting" stretches .
with Chris Wyatt
Easy lead for Chris so he wandered about looking for somewhat more "interesting" stretches .
with Chris Wyatt
chris wyatt 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S not sure what line I took- kind of ambled up left of blue sky. At the top went right on s steep slab to the top of blue sky
with joe
not sure what line I took- kind of ambled up left of blue sky. At the top went right on s steep slab to the top of blue sky
with joe
Johnywilks 25 May, 2013 Lead Stiff 2nd pitch, no way 4c move!
Stiff 2nd pitch, no way 4c move!
ashsleight 25 May, 2013 AltLd dog Le the 1st high tide pitch. Struggled on the crux top pitch 4c?????
with John Wilkins
Le the 1st high tide pitch. Struggled on the crux top pitch 4c?????
with John Wilkins
Hidden 4 May, 2013 2nd O/S
Glyn Davidson 4 May, 2013 Lead O/S 2nd pitch only
2nd pitch only
Alan Dixon 23 Feb, 2013 2nd Top pitch only, then variation off left.
Top pitch only, then variation off left.
Anthony Dixon 23 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S Top pitch only. As described by CC below. Would agree with his grade.
Top pitch only. As described by CC below. Would agree with his grade.
twilkinson-dix ??, 2013 -
with dave parker
with dave parker
msoldn 13 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S CC version of the climb, which follows almost entirely independent line to RockFax version. Crux moves equally intricate but not as wild as the adjacent moves on the RockFax line. Neither are 4c, more like hard 5a.
with Edwin
CC version of the climb, which follows almost entirely independent line to RockFax version. Crux moves equally intricate but not as wild as the adjacent moves on the RockFax line. Neither are 4c, more like hard 5a.
with Edwin
sleeplessjb 27 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
david wands 26 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with james
with james
msoldn 14 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Completely different descriptions and lines marked on photo between Rockfax and new CC Guide. CC Guide is probably the original route, but why the heck doesn't a definitive guide include the fantastic line shown in the Rockfax Guide??!! Did Rockfax line in one pitch with small variation pulling straight over roof of cave at first stance. Loved the pull round the left of the top roof in very airy barn-door position, defo 5a not 4c, maybe even E1!
with Richard
Completely different descriptions and lines marked on photo between Rockfax and new CC Guide. CC Guide is probably the original route, but why the heck doesn't a definitive guide include the fantastic line shown in the Rockfax Guide??!! Did Rockfax line in one pitch with small variation pulling straight over roof of cave at first stance. Loved the pull round the left of the top roof in very airy barn-door position, defo 5a not 4c, maybe even E1!
with Richard
themadbrown 9 Jun, 2012 2nd Was supposed to be blue sky?!! First section fine but James has lead a new variation to the top o this which I followed too far right....sweary- Mary with popeye forearms dogged the hideous top three metres?!! Lostvetter?
with Craig, Jams Crwca
Was supposed to be blue sky?!! First section fine but James has lead a new variation to the top o this which I followed too far right....sweary- Mary with popeye forearms dogged the hideous top three metres?!! Lostvetter?
with Craig, Jams Crwca
Jams Crwca 9 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S On 2nd pitch, 25' of scrambling, then straight up some brownish rock, exposed step out right to pull to the top. Poss 5a variation. Anyway, basically, didn't look at guide book too closely and got lost! Chris Craggs' description sounds alot like it.
with Craig, themadbrown
On 2nd pitch, 25' of scrambling, then straight up some brownish rock, exposed step out right to pull to the top. Poss 5a variation. Anyway, basically, didn't look at guide book too closely and got lost! Chris Craggs' description sounds alot like it.
with Craig, themadbrown
Hidden 20 May, 2012 AltLd
tlmarjot 8 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Alex Cannon
with Alex Cannon
nickwhimster 7 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
monsteratt 7 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Good route - didn't read guide properly and mistook for Blue Sky. Lead p2 fairly straight forward climbing. Great move along the flake then steep finish
with Nick Whimster
Good route - didn't read guide properly and mistook for Blue Sky. Lead p2 fairly straight forward climbing. Great move along the flake then steep finish
with Nick Whimster
tonevert 6 Apr, 2012 2nd
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
will9911 27 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Steve bedspring
with Steve bedspring
Hidden 27 Aug, 2011 AltLd
CRiddiford 23 Aug, 2011 2nd
with mark20
with mark20
mark20 23 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ?Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
Paul Boggis ??, 2011 AltLd
Rick Dunning ??, 2011 -
gareth r ??, 2011 2nd
with Bob
with Bob
Giles Davis 10 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S
with dmorgan27, Dean Jones
with dmorgan27, Dean Jones
Dibdawg 29 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with Ian Dunbar
with Ian Dunbar
Hidden 14 Aug, 2010 Lead
ian d f 11 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Meant to do Blue Sky
with Grace Chuchla
Meant to do Blue Sky
with Grace Chuchla
Sut 3 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Rose Williams 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with ian parkhouse
with ian parkhouse
DanH9883 30 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Edd Reed 11 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Variation to 2nd pitch, up and right after bulge, adventurous looking but safe.
with Martin Allen
Variation to 2nd pitch, up and right after bulge, adventurous looking but safe.
with Martin Allen
Hidden 19 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall 29 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Top pitch only, had intended to do Blue Sky, but the tide was in and the sea was very rough and we ended up taking what looked the easiest line
with IggyLiz
Top pitch only, had intended to do Blue Sky, but the tide was in and the sea was very rough and we ended up taking what looked the easiest line
with IggyLiz
IggyLiz 29 Aug, 2009 2nd
Hidden 22 Aug, 2009 2nd
Hidden 19 Aug, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 23 May, 2009 2nd
Dr Caterpillar 19 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S led p2. possibly the most pumped and scared i have been at the same time, fingers were uncurling on the last holds while looking at a massive whipper, blooming eck pembroke eh!
with AlexM
led p2. possibly the most pumped and scared i have been at the same time, fingers were uncurling on the last holds while looking at a massive whipper, blooming eck pembroke eh!
with AlexM
Hidden 18 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2009 2nd
RCrockford 19 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S As one pitch
with Jonah
As one pitch
with Jonah
Mark Stevenson 26 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 8 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
alek 8 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
cem 26 May, 2007 2nd A bit off route as we went right at the roof
with GrahamD
A bit off route as we went right at the roof
with GrahamD
david morse 5 Apr, 2007 Lead
with dave pritchard
with dave pritchard
Hidden ?Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
bigglesbutcha 10 Jun, 2006 2nd β
with Snatch
with Snatch
Hidden 10 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
gonggashan 6 Aug, 2005 Lead
with Elise
with Elise
Hidden 1 May, 2004 Lead
Sime64 9 Aug, 2003 AltLd dnf Lead P1 OK. Marvin and myself both attempted P2 but backed off as felt very bold. Prussicked up ab rope to exit.
with Marvin R
Lead P1 OK. Marvin and myself both attempted P2 but backed off as felt very bold. Prussicked up ab rope to exit.
with Marvin R
Hidden ?Jul, 2002 AltLd
Martin Bennett 3 May, 1997 -
with MT
with MT
Iain Brown 6 Apr, 1997 -
with Dave
with Dave
mikej 17 May, 1996 AltLd
with John Flint
with John Flint
Hidden ??, 1996 -
Nigel Coe 28 Aug, 1983 AltLd
with Steve Portnoi
with Steve Portnoi
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 24
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set