45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb to the left of the ever-popular Blue Sky making the most of the steep rock to the left of its upper section.
1) 4c, 26m. Start as for Blue Sky but continue leftwards up the long groove to a ledge and small cave to belay.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb two grooves in the wall above to the top roof. Pull left around this and continue to the top in a fine position. © Rockfax

J Harwood, M Rhodes 01/Mar/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke VDiff-HVS, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs.

Hidden 23/Sep Lead O/S
edwards_nicholas 26/Aug AltLd dog

We followed the rockfax line, I think the leftwards finish was incorrect, it felt like 5b and I exited right after 3 falls which is the route taken in the definitive guide for a route with a different name. Wrongfax?

with NinaR
Hidden 26/Aug AltLd O/S
PaulTclimbing 28/May Lead
with Adrian
Hidden 18/Apr AltLd O/S
Lottie Green 02/Apr 2nd O/S

Incredibly fun route! My first sea cliff ab and I loved it. Started slightly up from the bottom due to tides and took a rather more right route which bumped the grade up to roughly E1 5b imo. The irony of going the alternative route to the alternative route of Blue Sky is not lost.

kierankeavy 02/Apr AltLd O/S

Lead P1

steve-grigg 02/Apr Lead O/S

Ended up doing the Rockfax version of the route (even though i was going off the CC book), starting from the higher start above the waves. First pitch was great fun on the technical slab/arête. Pitch 2 was good, till the move left under the roof when it became great, defiantly not HVS 4c, would go as far as saying E1 5b, but that may just be my dodgy shoulder talking.

wnicholson 02/Apr AltLd O/S
samkat 27/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Rockfax guidebook and other guidebook have different topo's for this climb. We followed rockfax version however going left of roof was too hard so ended up going right. Definitely not a 4c. We are both competent 4c climbers and even led many 5a routes in the area.

with Glen Stidever
petecallaghan 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Joemanglerocks 02/Jul/16 Lead

From mid-height belay but moved right from under the top bulge. Confused as to exactly what route I have actually climbed...

TimKnight 02/Jul/16 2nd

CC version from mid-height belay above the waves... aiming for Blue Sky

Graeme Hammond 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Led in one big pitch from refuge ledge. Good climbing but no idea really were I was going. The lack of a proper line distracts from the route as I could have climbed anywhere. CC guide vs Rockfax descriptions also seem to be confusing and different and pitch lengths in CC are wildly out. Shame it started to rain properly after I topped out so we didn't get any more routes in.

Hidden 26/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/16 2nd
Trobbo 08/May/16 2nd
with dave cundy
DubyaJamesDubya 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
Hidden 31/Oct/15 Lead
AnitaClimb 31/Oct/15 2nd
with Spooner , Jennie, Francis, Sammy
mike.moss 05/Sep/15 Lead
benwmorgan 05/Sep/15 2nd β
Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Dervey 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Liam
felixizzy 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Only did pitch two cause the sea was choppy didn't want to commit to going any lower. I thought this route was pretty sketchy, didn't think the gear was that great and from the rib just before the crux didn't manage to place another runner as the holds felt pretty insecure and figured it was better to just keep moving. It did put a large grin on my face when I topped out though.

with Trip
CRiddiford 05/Apr/15 AltLd
Jake Young 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
misterb ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with justin
Steve Woollard 25/Oct/14 Lead

Abseiled in to do Blue Sky in strong wind and heavy sea. Started from belay and went to far left and finished up this. Will go back to do Blue Sky next summer

Hidden 25/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Geras 06/Sep/14 AltLd

lead pitch 2

with Nick
Coops_13 07/Jun/14 Lead dog

Abbed down the wrong line, prussiked up the ab rope round the crux

Dan Hostford 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Put the abseil in the wrong place so ended up hanging in free space then and had jump across the top of the waves. Me and Maddie then proceeded to get lost and accidentally did this instead of blue sky. Was fun though.

Maddie 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Maybe climbed this?? Who knows really. Me and Dan had a bit of a mega faff but was good fun

Big Lee 18/Apr/14 AltLd

Led the first pitch. The slab leading to the belay would have been very bold were it not for brasses. Murilo went totally off-route on the second pitch. Started up the groove to the right and then traversed a long way left to an escape point. Still fun via this route with plenty of exposure and probably the same grade. Started from the wave-washed platform.

Murilo Lessa 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Got lost on the 2nd groove and ended up doing a cool traverse.

with Lee Harisson
joe gallacher 21/Jul/13 2nd

Easy lead for Chris so he wandered about looking for somewhat more "interesting" stretches .

with Chris Wyatt
chris wyatt 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

not sure what line I took- kind of ambled up left of blue sky. At the top went right on s steep slab to the top of blue sky

with joe
Johnywilks 25/May/13 Lead

Stiff 2nd pitch, no way 4c move!

ashsleight 25/May/13 AltLd dog

Le the 1st high tide pitch. Struggled on the crux top pitch 4c?????

with John Wilkins
Hidden 04/May/13 2nd O/S
Glyn Davidson 04/May/13 Lead O/S

2nd pitch only

Alan Dixon 23/Feb/13 2nd

Top pitch only, then variation off left.

Anthony Dixon 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Top pitch only. As described by CC below. Would agree with his grade.

with Alan
twilkinson-dix ??/2013 -
with dave parker
msoldn 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S

CC version of the climb, which follows almost entirely independent line to RockFax version. Crux moves equally intricate but not as wild as the adjacent moves on the RockFax line. Neither are 4c, more like hard 5a.

with Edwin
sleeplessjb 27/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
david wands 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with james
msoldn 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Completely different descriptions and lines marked on photo between Rockfax and new CC Guide. CC Guide is probably the original route, but why the heck doesn't a definitive guide include the fantastic line shown in the Rockfax Guide??!! Did Rockfax line in one pitch with small variation pulling straight over roof of cave at first stance. Loved the pull round the left of the top roof in very airy barn-door position, defo 5a not 4c, maybe even E1!

with Richard
themadbrown 09/Jun/12 2nd

Was supposed to be blue sky?!! First section fine but James has lead a new variation to the top o this which I followed too far right....sweary- Mary with popeye forearms dogged the hideous top three metres?!! Lostvetter?

with Craig, james
Jams Crwca 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

On 2nd pitch, 25' of scrambling, then straight up some brownish rock, exposed step out right to pull to the top. Poss 5a variation. Anyway, basically, didn't look at guide book too closely and got lost! Chris Craggs' description sounds alot like it.

with Craig, themadbrown
Hidden 20/May/12 AltLd
tlmarjot 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Alex Cannon
nickwhimster 07/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
monsteratt 07/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Good route - didn't read guide properly and mistook for Blue Sky. Lead p2 fairly straight forward climbing. Great move along the flake then steep finish

with Nick Whimster
tonevert 06/Apr/12 2nd
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
will9911 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Steve bedspring
Hidden 27/Aug/11 AltLd
CRiddiford 23/Aug/11 2nd
with Mark
mark20 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Apr/11 AltLd
with Westy
Paul Boggis ??/2011 AltLd
Rick Dunning ??/2011 -
gareth r ??/2011 2nd
with Bob
Giles Davis 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Darrell Morgan, Dean Jones
Dibdawg 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Ian Dunbar
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead
ian d f 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Meant to do Blue Sky

with Grace Chuchla
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Rose Williams 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with ian parkhouse
DanH9883 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lee
Edd Reed 11/May/10 AltLd O/S

Variation to 2nd pitch, up and right after bulge, adventurous looking but safe.

with Martin Allen
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Top pitch only, had intended to do Blue Sky, but the tide was in and the sea was very rough and we ended up taking what looked the easiest line

with Liz
IggyLiz 29/Aug/09 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 23/May/09 2nd
Dr Caterpillar 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

led p2. possibly the most pumped and scared i have been at the same time, fingers were uncurling on the last holds while looking at a massive whipper, blooming eck pembroke eh!

Hidden 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/09 2nd
RCrockford 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S

As one pitch

with Jonah
Hidden 26/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/07 2nd O/S
alek 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
cem 26/May/07 2nd

A bit off route as we went right at the roof

david morse 05/Apr/07 Lead
with dave pritchard
Hidden ?/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
bigglesbutcha 10/Jun/06 2nd β
Hidden 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
gonggashan 06/Aug/05 Lead
with Elise
climbtim 01/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Sime64 09/Aug/03 AltLd dnf

Lead P1 OK. Marvin and myself both attempted P2 but backed off as felt very bold. Prussicked up ab rope to exit.

with Marvin R
Hidden ?/Jul/02 AltLd
Martin Bennett 03/May/97 -
with MT
mikej 17/May/96 AltLd
with John Flint
Hidden ??/1996 -
Nigel Coe 28/Aug/83 AltLd
with Steve Portnoi
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