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Please do not belay to the radar station fence or fence posts - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday.

24m.

Rockfax Description
From the low cave climb the left-hand side of the slab by a series of mantelshelves then finish easily up the headwall above. © Rockfax

FA. D.Jones (solo) 16/Apr/1981.

Feedback

User Date Notes
The Mountain Goat 16 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the previous comment about the line, any further left and your on "Breaking Wind" which has a start far too hard to be 5a. The line felt a bit artificial far too easy to move right to easy ground if necessary.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with the previous comment about the line, any further left and your on "Breaking Wind" which has a start far too hard to be 5a. The line felt a bit artificial far too easy to move right to easy ground if necessary.
O. C. Curmudgeon 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think I've made some sense of the 2 routes on the slab from the definitive guide. Breaking Wind (E1 5b) goes up the slab directly above the cave - this is the line marked as Sunset Boulevard in the Rockfax topo. Sunset Boulevard (HVS 5a) which is described as "a series of mantleshelf moves" I think goes up the left of the slab just right of the arete - even though the definitive guide says climb the centre of the slab! Hope that makes sense.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think I've made some sense of the 2 routes on the slab from the definitive guide. Breaking Wind (E1 5b) goes up the slab directly above the cave - this is the line marked as Sunset Boulevard in the Rockfax topo. Sunset Boulevard (HVS 5a) which is described as "a series of mantleshelf moves" I think goes up the left of the slab just right of the arete - even though the definitive guide says climb the centre of the slab! Hope that makes sense.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Saddle Head

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 29
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bohemian Bubblebath

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Penally East)

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