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Please do not belay to the radar station fence or fence posts - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday.

24m.

Rockfax Description
The larger cave has a pillar of rock in it and above this a long corner runs up the left-hand end of the roof high above. It can be reached direct (pull!) or from left or right and gives fine sustained climbing. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 08/Apr/1978.

Ticklists

ULMC Classics , Pembroke VDiff-HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rick Sewards 3 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Pretty sure the numbering on the photodiagram on page 75 of the definitive CC guide (Pembroke Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's) is wrong - add one to all the numbers in the diagram to match the text. Mentioned here as following the line for "19" (No Hands in the text) would take you up Smilin' Jugs (E3)! The diagram covers Flake Quake to Final Groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty sure the numbering on the photodiagram on page 75 of the definitive CC guide (Pembroke Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan's) is wrong - add one to all the numbers in the diagram to match the text. Mentioned here as following the line for "19" (No Hands in the text) would take you up Smilin' Jugs (E3)! The diagram covers Flake Quake to Final Groove.
Phil Murray 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Tough for the grade, esp when the crack is greasy (as it was yesterday). Lots of gear so not arguing with VS, but should definitely be 4c. Can't believe the HS 4b next to it gets the same technical grade! It's a (highly enjoyable) path by comparison.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tough for the grade, esp when the crack is greasy (as it was yesterday). Lots of gear so not arguing with VS, but should definitely be 4c. Can't believe the HS 4b next to it gets the same technical grade! It's a (highly enjoyable) path by comparison.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Saddle Head

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 101
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 97
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Armorican

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Caerfai Bay)

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