Rockfax Description
A magnificent and elegant climb. There is a lot more gear than the grade suggests and although there are hardly any easy moves, there are no desperate ones either. Start from the ledge at the foot of the corner. The original start followed the corner for 3m then traversed right to the arete but it is better to climb up the blunt arete from the right-hand end of the belay ledge. Continue to the mid-height break and the base of a long straight crack. Move right to a narrow groove then trend up and rightwards on improving holds to another break. Move right again and finish up a groove with an increasing sense of elation - beautiful! © Rockfax

B Wintringham 29/Jun/1980

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

J_Spooner 29/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Ben Smart
Hidden 27/Aug/17 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Tom.Priestley 23/Aug/17 2nd O/S

Great route. Sideways BD Stopper 8 protected the start quite well. Easy at E4.

beni 12/Aug/17 Lead
with Wojtek
Neil Adams 30/Jul/17 2nd O/S
andyinglis 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Absolutely loved it! 10/10

Hidden ??/2017 -
Wendy 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Ali
Stefan_Morris 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Great route. Did it for Mike's film and loved it. Really sustained all the way with tricky moves, decent gear and a great situation. Favourite bit was on the technical crux where, halfway through, I kicked out my RPs.... kept climbing, looked down and saw that if I fell I'd probably end up on the boulders in the sea. Pulled hard, made a big cross through to a jug, and kept on climbing. Pleased with my headgame as I was nervous on the e1 I led earlier in the day but I just got on with it and climbed.

with robertmctague, Mike Cheque
MichaelGallimore 15/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Quality all the way up!

JendeHoxar 15/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 11/Aug/16 Lead O/S
pete johnson 11/Aug/16 2nd rpt
The Grist 05/Aug/16 2nd
irish paul ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S

With a super low spring tide, walked over to look down the leap from the seaward end. Felt sketchy as the first crux was a long way above boulders, would be nicer with some water below you!

Adam24B 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Lovely climbing, little bit greasy resulting in a moment of worry near the start

Kris2fa 10/Jul/16 2nd O/S

So happy to get this clean (even though I was only seconding!). Fantastic route!

with Adam24B
Ollie B 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Managed to enjoy after the weight of self inflicted pressure was relieved.

with B.Brewer
poeter210 19/Sep/15 2nd dog
with argentinian machine
spidermonkey09 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Really proud of this, one of the best routes I've ever done. Actually loads of gear but probably only 60% of it trustworthy. No hard moves but very few good relaxing rests either. An emotional lead, felt knackered at the top!

Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd dog
Russell Birkett 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

If you come to Pembroke and can lead E3/4 you have to do this. Outstanding route.

with Tim Whitaker
JBO 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
tash 01/Aug/15 2nd

Best route ever? Lovely climbing above the sea!!! Amazing.

with ali k
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
NDD 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Mcmanus
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/15 Lead

was considering going for a swim rather than hoping gear would hold on first 30 ft or so. mega route

with ben
The Grist 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Very pleased with this route. For me the start was the hardest part. Just a little run out and one move that could have consequences if you muff it before the gear. After that the gear and holds kept coming. Fantastic route.

PaulTanton 25/May/15 2nd rpt

Well done Mark

pearson9596 16/May/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 16/May/15 2nd O/S
Tom Livingstone 09/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Oli Grounsell
eel 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Gwen
HAJ Francis 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/15 2nd rpt
WB 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Amazing route. One of the best I have ever done.

with Anna
Hidden ??/2015 Lead rpt
Sarah Black 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Just brilliant.

Duncan Campbell 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Mentally taxing. Always been wary as a good friend of mine backed off this when he was on form, but consoled myself that it is supposed to be soft, so maybe buggered myself. Found getting the kit in quite pumpy/shoulder strenuous, to often find nothing would go in. Brilliant, brilliant climbing though. Every move is 5b or 5c but it is still in the lower half of the E4 grade.

with GuyVG
Wood for Trees 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S

had wanted to lead but proved too difficult to strip, ah well, a pleasure to second a steady lead from Dunc. Scary.

Rachel Slater 14/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Found this pretty scary... didn't feel like easy E4.

tim newton 14/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 20/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Super classic, absolutely brilliant climbing all the way.

Ed Booth 20/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 18/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Misha 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
anguskille 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Stunning stuff, would happily do it again and again I think

shed_hed 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Awesome route! Nice easy E4 tick if you're happy face climbing. None of the moves are hard and there is plenty of gear, it's just a bit fiddly and never amazing.

fennerz 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Angus Kille
tim newton 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Julian Cooper 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Stuart Knott
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead
Tubs 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Dave M
phil64 ?/Apr/14 2nd rpt

great route

with tom livingstone
mike mo ??/2014 -
pie_eater_pete 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood ?/Sep/13 2nd
Andrew Wilson 29/Aug/13 2nd O/S
cooperman 07/Jul/13 Lead dog

1 rest on last gear before final hard move. Missed crucial right foot hold which made the move much easier once found. Lots of 5c, poor rests until 2/3 of way up

with Greg Foster
dominic lee 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
markalmack 06/May/13 2nd rpt

Followed gwen to get confidence for Luke Skywalker. Forgot how good this route was. Such good moves all the way. One of the best!

with gwen
Mike_Hayes 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with John Nightingale
mark20 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

well grease

ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Ed morris 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Such an incredible route, if you aren't expecting lots of gear you will be pleasantly surprised!

with Adam Bevan
dswansonlow 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 14/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Dougie
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Si
Billg 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

alzheimers on site. Bolder than I remember

with Bob Brewer
burto 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
mountain.martin 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Magnificent, a fair bit easier to 2nd than lead I would imagine, as some gear must be a bit tricky to place and some hard moves are a bit above (mainly good) placements.

belay bunny turned bad 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
richardr 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Bold start!

chris wyatt 13/May/12 2nd O/S


with rich
Chi Cheng 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Went off route on to Luke Skywalker. Fell 10m trying to down climb.

Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
markalmack 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Easier than pleasure dome!!! 1 "move" above poor gear, but all the rest above sinker gear. pure class route.

Andrew Sandercock 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Really want to come back and lead this at some point. Route of the trip, even on second!

with Mark A
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
bigie bob 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
sam820 06/Apr/12 2nd
with Murdoch
mike mo 28/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S


with Mike
feilx 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Andy L
quiffhanger 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Jake
hamish2016 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Wil Treasure
Wil Treasure 02/Jul/11 2nd
with hamdunn
pipof747 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead
GrantB 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Robertson
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd
Ally Smith 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 26/Apr/11 2nd
with John Orr
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 2nd
mwatson ??/2011 -

good route but a bit dissapointing, possibly able to lank past some of the moves making it less sustained

phil64 ??/2011 -
Ed Babs 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Harry
datoon 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Wonderful climbing! Real steady, not a pumper, but awkward to find gear, so ended up just running it out quite a bit. Would be a wicked DWS!

Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
morganator 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Fell off on Luke Skywalker, so traversed off.

with Andy Benson
billb ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
Hidden ?/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Franco Cookson 01/May/10 Solo O/S

Good Pitch. Gets better and better the higher you go up.

with Jack
Hidden 01/May/10 2nd O/S
Pown 09/Apr/10 2nd O/S
JulesV ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Tim Jepson
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 25/May/09 2nd dog

Awesome. One to go back and lead when I'm a bit fitter.

with Andy Hobson
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S

this pitch is amazing. A real MUST DO. Probably one of my favorite pitches ever!!!

Adam Booth 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S
gforce 08/Aug/08 Lead

A moment of panic when I embarked on some hard moves to come to a sharp halt midmove. Had clipped a runner into the rope loop on my harness rather than the rope - oops. Almost lost it but managed to unclip and continue to jugs. Phew. A great route and great way to finish the first of hopefully many trips to Pembroke!

with Jason
morganator 13/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with Rich Cross
feilx 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
Chad123 05/May/08 Lead dnf

Starting to become a curse this route! Again started up the arete before getting sweated off the route by the intense heat and greasy holds... Need a new project...

with Sam
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Alex Mason 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S

THE best route i have ever done, despite the epic of no chalk, 1 half rope and going off line. Perfect sustained 5b/c from leaving the belay ledge until about 5 metres form the top. 4* must-do.

Chad123 06/May/07 Lead dnf

Started up this classic looking line, only for the heavens to open and Humble got hit with a wave on the belay. The 40m prussick out was pretty interesting - next time!

with James Humble
Gus 06/May/07 Lead O/S
with Rob Clifton
Tony Little 06/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Ed Brown
morganator ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Bridgeland
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
dan gibson 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with martina
chris j 02/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Ben Bradford
Adam Ellwood 14/May/06 Lead O/S
bronsonite 01/May/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
Paz 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S

via old start.

with AR2
LC ?/Apr/06 Lead rpt
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 29/May/04 Lead O/S
buzby78 05/May/02 Lead
Adam Lincoln ??/2002 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/99 Lead O/S
DavidBarraclough ??/1998 Lead O/S
Si Clapham ??/1998 2nd
with Andy Long
duncan 27/Jul/97 Lead rpt
with Hugo Glover
pete johnson 26/May/97 2nd
with Hughie
Hidden 19/Apr/97 Lead
sadams 30/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
FATBOYFAT ??/1997 2nd O/S
Steve Crowe 01/Sep/96 2nd O/S
with KM
Greg Cunningham ?/Jul/95 Lead
with nigel birtwell
Roget 24/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with jon
jfletcher 30/Apr/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/92 2nd
whispering nic ?/May/92 Lead O/S
with Blaggy
PaulTanton ?/Apr/92 Lead O/S
with Jon Evans
Rich Kirby 30/Mar/91 Lead O/S

First E4...I think?

with Andy Mackay/Dave Taylor/Ian/PaulTanton
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29/Mar/91 Lead O/S


with Dad
Dave Musgrove 29/Mar/91 2nd

David's 1st E4 lead.

with David
Billg 31/Jul/90 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
Dave Rumney ?/Jul/90 Lead
wynaptomos ?/May/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/90 2nd
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1989 2nd
andy gittins ??/1988 -
Will Webb ?/Jun/87 2nd
with Mark Cole
Neil McA 20/Aug/86 Lead O/S

Fantastic route!

with Jim Dockery
Steve Long ??/1986 Lead

Led twice. Nice route

ukb & bmc shark 16/Apr/85 Lead O/S
with Richard O Mara
Steve Lewis 16/Jul/83 Lead O/S
with Mike Price
Mike Owen 02/May/83 Lead O/S
with Al Simpson
Mark Kemball 26/Apr/83 Lead
with Dave Kenyon
Hidden 09/Apr/83 Lead
duncan ??/1983 Lead O/S

Date is very approximate

Steve Bell ?/Apr/82 2nd O/S
with Martin Corbett
Paul Clarke ??/1982 Lead
Hidden 02/May/81 Lead
Hidden 02/May/81 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 58
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
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