30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This breath-taking traverse follows the lower line below the main roof. The climbing is never very difficult and the positions are amazing. Start from the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch of Galactic Co-ordinator, reached by either doing this pitch or by scrambling easily down from the top.
1) 4c, 15m. Swing around the arete onto the main face and follow the break below the roof to a wild stance on an arete.
2) 5a, 15m. Continue traversing along the break, past the crack of Deep Throat, to a large ledge. Scramble off easily. © Rockfax

FA. C.Heard, S.Lewis 17.6.79 17/Jun/1979

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HVS Adventures, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, 101Pembroke Extremes, Orange Spot Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, Extreme Girdle, UK Holiday Plans

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UserDateNotes
Morgan Woods 5 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: very atmospheric.....did it bystarting on the first pitch of GC which has a hard start on very funky sharp black rock. the traverse itself can be a bit daunting because it's a lot of work on the arms. Best to belay halfway at a fixed friend (well i hope it's fixed) then continue underneath a dirty wet corner for about 5-10m....belay low down and walk off rather than from the very top to avoid drag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: very atmospheric.....did it bystarting on the first pitch of GC which has a hard start on very funky sharp black rock. the traverse itself can be a bit daunting because it's a lot of work on the arms. Best to belay halfway at a fixed friend (well i hope it's fixed) then continue underneath a dirty wet corner for about 5-10m....belay low down and walk off rather than from the very top to avoid drag.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Max Streeton 25 Aug 2nd Did in one pitch. Wet in places. Had a couple of rests.
with Jon Coutts, Tom Old
Did in one pitch. Wet in places. Had a couple of rests.
with Jon Coutts, Tom Old
Hidden 25 Aug 2nd dog
gem_stone12 25 Aug AltLd O/S Followed Fiona to hanging belay then led 2nd pitch - fantastic positions!
Followed Fiona to hanging belay then led 2nd pitch - fantastic positions!
slowmotion 25 Aug AltLd O/S
Remco 23 Aug Lead O/S
with Edgar
with Edgar
pipof747 22 Aug Lead O/S In one pitch. Good fun despite being soaked.
In one pitch. Good fun despite being soaked.
justdoit ?Aug AltLd O/S Fun did the second pitch
Fun did the second pitch
FH 28 Jul 2nd
with SP
with SP
Hidden 28 Jul 2nd
Hidden 28 Jul Lead O/S
andy_pemberton 22 Jul Lead dnf A wet and greasy grovel out to the belay and then all the way back again.
with Steve Gibson
A wet and greasy grovel out to the belay and then all the way back again.
with Steve Gibson
Phil79 20 Jul AltLd O/S A pant filling adventure!
A pant filling adventure!
ClimbingAlex 13 Jul Lead O/S Totally outrageous!
Totally outrageous!
Matt Magecha 13 Jul 2nd What a couple of pitches!! Felt like a rodeo!
What a couple of pitches!! Felt like a rodeo!
Hidden 25 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
EllieWoods 25 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S Got somewhat caught up in someone else's epic, so took many hours...
Got somewhat caught up in someone else's epic, so took many hours...
JendeHoxar 17 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 17 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S In the damp...
In the damp...
Cheese Monkey 10 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Colin Knowles 10 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 9 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Mark_shack 5 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf
Hidden 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Chris Murray 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd Led P1 (P2 in definitive). Amazing route with massive exposure and a crazy hanging belay. Holds still a bit slimy despite the long hot summer.
with DMC
Led P1 (P2 in definitive). Amazing route with massive exposure and a crazy hanging belay. Holds still a bit slimy despite the long hot summer.
with DMC
DMC 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2, one of the most wildly exposed pitches I've ever led. Brilliant!
Led P2, one of the most wildly exposed pitches I've ever led. Brilliant!
Hidden 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
AKabza 6 May, 2018 2nd Sling belay halfway through 2nd pitch
with dmurray
Sling belay halfway through 2nd pitch
with dmurray
Hidden 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S
peakschris 28 Aug, 2017 2nd dog I'd asked Trevor to push me and I got it! P1 ok with one minor fall. Hanging belay was scary! P2 hard; each move manageable but holds wet, and with bad footwork couldn't hold on and rested 3x on gear. Managed the rockover at least. Epic. I'm new to Pembroke HVS' but found this far harder to second than galactic coordinator. No birds or poo.
with Trevor PCC
I'd asked Trevor to push me and I got it! P1 ok with one minor fall. Hanging belay was scary! P2 hard; each move manageable but holds wet, and with bad footwork couldn't hold on and rested 3x on gear. Managed the rockover at least. Epic. I'm new to Pembroke HVS' but found this far harder to second than galactic coordinator. No birds or poo.
with Trevor PCC
NinaR 28 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Steep! Led 1st pitch.
Steep! Led 1st pitch.
Glen Stidever 28 Aug, 2017 AltLd dog Had an epic on this! Pretty much aid climbed P2 ????
with NinaR
Had an epic on this! Pretty much aid climbed P2 ????
with NinaR
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd
aiyer 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd Eek.... Got to lead P2! ????
with JakeB.
Eek.... Got to lead P2! ????
with JakeB.
wnicholson 13 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
steve-grigg 13 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
khalidq 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Max Adamson
with Max Adamson
Hidden 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd
bryan61 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
aiyer 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf Birds nesting so traversed back to the ledge...
Birds nesting so traversed back to the ledge...
Wendy Watthews 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf Fantastic abb to the ledge above the sea, Aby took the first pitch and I got the first traverse to a wonderful hanging belay from a giant thread. Unfortunately the break in the second pitch was occupied by a family of nesting birds, not wanting to disturb them or indeed get our eyes pecked out by the parents Aby had the joy of reaching the belay only to swap gear and reverse lead the traverse she had just seconded.
with aiyer
Fantastic abb to the ledge above the sea, Aby took the first pitch and I got the first traverse to a wonderful hanging belay from a giant thread. Unfortunately the break in the second pitch was occupied by a family of nesting birds, not wanting to disturb them or indeed get our eyes pecked out by the parents Aby had the joy of reaching the belay only to swap gear and reverse lead the traverse she had just seconded.
with aiyer
timrooker 16 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S led p1, wet and greasy holds throughout (except just after the p2 crux, a much appreciated 'in the bag' moment) and such an epic position. topped out to the sunset, never been so happy to finish a route before haha
led p1, wet and greasy holds throughout (except just after the p2 crux, a much appreciated 'in the bag' moment) and such an epic position. topped out to the sunset, never been so happy to finish a route before haha
benkelsey 16 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Like dipping your hands into the beach just after a wave. Strong effort from Tim on p1. If pitch 1 is that bad, what's pitch two going to be like? Had dusk chasing our heels as as we sideways'd out.
Like dipping your hands into the beach just after a wave. Strong effort from Tim on p1. If pitch 1 is that bad, what's pitch two going to be like? Had dusk chasing our heels as as we sideways'd out.
dmorgan27 29 Oct, 2016 AltLd
gingernick 29 Oct, 2016 AltLd Outstanding
with Alex Duckett, dmorgan27
Outstanding
with Alex Duckett, dmorgan27
Dizz 1 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Alison atholl
with Alison atholl
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
matt1024 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Only did the traverse pitches, led the first. Excellent route, very adventurous.
with mcondon
Only did the traverse pitches, led the first. Excellent route, very adventurous.
with mcondon
Hidden 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Dean Russell 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Stanners 10 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S led P2. Here we go again..the first of the adventurous scary HVS's of the trip! I do like some deviant fun..brilliant route even in the poor weather and on greasy rock. Classic fun.
with Giles
led P2. Here we go again..the first of the adventurous scary HVS's of the trip! I do like some deviant fun..brilliant route even in the poor weather and on greasy rock. Classic fun.
with Giles
onlyfoddington 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead the first and third pitch - what a traverse. Very nearly ran out of gas at the end.
with ian d f
Lead the first and third pitch - what a traverse. Very nearly ran out of gas at the end.
with ian d f
ian d f 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S good fun at the grade
good fun at the grade
DubyaJamesDubya 11 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Amazing climb. Great positions and sustained.
with Joe Harris
Amazing climb. Great positions and sustained.
with Joe Harris
poeter210 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Gripping! Hard very stressful!
with druss
Gripping! Hard very stressful!
with druss
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
s.thursz 16 Aug, 2015 2nd
Will Mortimer 16 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Lead P1
Lead P1
gurumed 28 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead the first pitch. Excellent route.
with gjd
Lead the first pitch. Excellent route.
with gjd
gjd 28 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S led p 2.
with gurumed
led p 2.
with gurumed
Graeme Hammond 26 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Not very epic except maybe for steve... easy jugs and jams. Excellent fun.
Not very epic except maybe for steve... easy jugs and jams. Excellent fun.
stevelismore 26 Aug, 2014 2nd dog God this climb was hard work-scarecely any footholds, and wet too. Nearly got it clean but hand slipped on wet rock and I fell off just before the belay.
God this climb was hard work-scarecely any footholds, and wet too. Nearly got it clean but hand slipped on wet rock and I fell off just before the belay.
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Ed morris 22 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S P1.
with Henry
P1.
with Henry
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Rob84 18 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Rob Adie
with Rob Adie
nickstephens 12 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with gg4419
with gg4419
gg4419 12 Aug, 2013 AltLd rpt Not technically a whole repeat as we never made it all the way round last year, this time we did and it was fantastic as expected, great exposure for HVS, top route well worthy of three stars. No bird poo post nesting season for those wondering.
Not technically a whole repeat as we never made it all the way round last year, this time we did and it was fantastic as expected, great exposure for HVS, top route well worthy of three stars. No bird poo post nesting season for those wondering.
Anthony Dixon 4 May, 2013 AltLd
papashango 4 May, 2013 AltLd
adie84 ??, 2013 -
gg4419 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd dnf
nickstephens 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd dnf Where is the "had an epic" in the style option? Waited to see if rain would clear, still went for it although lateish, wrong belay, damp holds, etc. Great route :-)
with gg4419
Where is the "had an epic" in the style option? Waited to see if rain would clear, still went for it although lateish, wrong belay, damp holds, etc. Great route :-)
with gg4419
cem 25 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led p1 but didn't belay in the right place so Kirill got a longer second pitch
with Kirill
Led p1 but didn't belay in the right place so Kirill got a longer second pitch
with Kirill
Kirill 25 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P2. Better than Heart of Darkness!
with cem
Led P2. Better than Heart of Darkness!
with cem
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 Lead dnf
soph 28 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Annelies Sarrazyn
with Annelies Sarrazyn
haydng 27 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Great exposure and pump under the massive overhang!
with Dave
Great exposure and pump under the massive overhang!
with Dave
Kevster 8 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S Prone to seepage. Exciting!
Prone to seepage. Exciting!
Compo 8 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
with Kev Faux
with Kev Faux
CRiddiford 10 Mar, 2012 AltLd dnf Not one to do on a wet/misty day or maybe just not until summer, given the seepage over half of it...when it starts greasy, remember to turn back before you're half way and being dripped on!!
Not one to do on a wet/misty day or maybe just not until summer, given the seepage over half of it...when it starts greasy, remember to turn back before you're half way and being dripped on!!
chrism225 10 Mar, 2012 AltLd dnf So wet, but so fun, and so glad to get off of it! :)
So wet, but so fun, and so glad to get off of it! :)
scott titt ??, 2012 -
Swotson 29 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S Awesome unforgettable route. Wild, unlikely positions. Wimped out of leading 2nd pitch. Reminded me of Craig y Longridge but high above the sea! Can't wait to go back and lead it next time:-)
with Will Taylor
Awesome unforgettable route. Wild, unlikely positions. Wimped out of leading 2nd pitch. Reminded me of Craig y Longridge but high above the sea! Can't wait to go back and lead it next time:-)
with Will Taylor
will9911 29 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Alison
with Alison
Hidden 22 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
jgordon75 19 Aug, 2011 AltLd P1
P1
Owen W-G 19 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P2. Steep and intimidating for the grade with lots of guanno infested jugs. Harder than Heart of Darkness.
Led P2. Steep and intimidating for the grade with lots of guanno infested jugs. Harder than Heart of Darkness.
Oliver Sherman 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd dog Took a factor 2 fall onto an inproptu belay after much faffage and an attempt on a day when the rock was wet. Apparently the route is a bit epic prone, I think I can see why!
with John Eales
Took a factor 2 fall onto an inproptu belay after much faffage and an attempt on a day when the rock was wet. Apparently the route is a bit epic prone, I think I can see why!
with John Eales
Rowan Mitchell 10 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S P1 Alan, P2 Alan. After the first pitch we were both beasted and looking for an easy escape. Preferring the less pumpy crack, Alan climbed (with aiding) part of the second pitch of Deep Throat then found an easy hand traverse off to the right. A fully outrageous climb!
with Alan100
P1 Alan, P2 Alan. After the first pitch we were both beasted and looking for an easy escape. Preferring the less pumpy crack, Alan climbed (with aiding) part of the second pitch of Deep Throat then found an easy hand traverse off to the right. A fully outrageous climb!
with Alan100
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Alan100 ??, 2011 - There's no way this is the same grade as Riders! Had to rest on gear after finding a damp hold on the first pitch. Decided I was too pumped to do the second traverse pitch so tried to go up the crack instead. Ethics were swiftly abandoned in favour of pulling on gear and swearing a lot. Eventually got past the first overhang and escaped out right. Despite feeling thoroughly sandbagged I had great time and it's a brilliant route. Reckon it's E1 though where the 'E' stands for Epic!
There's no way this is the same grade as Riders! Had to rest on gear after finding a damp hold on the first pitch. Decided I was too pumped to do the second traverse pitch so tried to go up the crack instead. Ethics were swiftly abandoned in favour of pulling on gear and swearing a lot. Eventually got past the first overhang and escaped out right. Despite feeling thoroughly sandbagged I had great time and it's a brilliant route. Reckon it's E1 though where the 'E' stands for Epic!
jon_gill1 28 Aug, 2010 AltLd dnf john led the first pitch and i tried the second!after get pumped out a 3rd of the way along the traverse i decided to rest on the gear knowing that it wasnt great.5 mins went by and the the cam popped sending me down into the E3 below.battered and shocked im climbed back up and escaped by leading the first pitch in reverse!amazing positions!need more strength and more balls!I WILL RETURN!
with JWB
john led the first pitch and i tried the second!after get pumped out a 3rd of the way along the traverse i decided to rest on the gear knowing that it wasnt great.5 mins went by and the the cam popped sending me down into the E3 below.battered and shocked im climbed back up and escaped by leading the first pitch in reverse!amazing positions!need more strength and more balls!I WILL RETURN!
with JWB
JWB 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S What a position and the belay is just wild. Only pitch one climbed though. Jon tried pitch 2 and could not commit so he had to lead back along pitch 1.
What a position and the belay is just wild. Only pitch one climbed though. Jon tried pitch 2 and could not commit so he had to lead back along pitch 1.
duncana 28 Aug, 2010 2nd Possibly my worst / scariest / hardest ever climbing experience. Feet really bad on first pitch, and generally found it really strenuous (probably just poor technique on my part...), and being a traverse over nothing didn't really want to fall off even seconding. Very happy to finish it. Arms felt wrecked the next day.
with Pippa Archer
Possibly my worst / scariest / hardest ever climbing experience. Feet really bad on first pitch, and generally found it really strenuous (probably just poor technique on my part...), and being a traverse over nothing didn't really want to fall off even seconding. Very happy to finish it. Arms felt wrecked the next day.
with Pippa Archer
Hidden 27 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 1 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ?Mar, 2010 -
Hidden ?Mar, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 AltLd
spacey 5 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Paul Evans 5 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with spacey
with spacey
matt.woodfield 29 Aug, 2009 Lead
steve.warrington 29 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
with Stuart Llewellyn, matt.woodfield
with Stuart Llewellyn, matt.woodfield
david morse 17 Aug, 2009 Lead rpt
with General
with General
Fat Tim 17 Aug, 2009 AltLd dog I led the first pitch clean, mark did the rest as one pitch, I fell and took a swing, leaving my self a little bruised and off route. Some prussiking occured.
with Mark kauntz
I led the first pitch clean, mark did the rest as one pitch, I fell and took a swing, leaving my self a little bruised and off route. Some prussiking occured.
with Mark kauntz
nicolat ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Paul Bowen 28 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S 2nd pitch. super exposed and exciting
with bec
2nd pitch. super exposed and exciting
with bec
Hidden 28 Sep, 2008 AltLd
just one more 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S Brilliant!
with tim b
Brilliant!
with tim b
morganator 23 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Neil McAdie
with Neil McAdie
Neil McA 23 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Paul ablitt 16 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Rushy
with Rushy
Hidden 15 Aug, 2008 AltLd
Hidden ?Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
david morse ?Aug, 2006 Lead dog fantastic!
with rampant
fantastic!
with rampant
Boxy ?Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with Mick
with Mick
Morgan Woods ?Aug, 2005 Lead dog Lead the second pitch....definitely felt harder than 5a but it was my first trad climb in the UK. Some wild moves on the traverse 100ft above the waves....even a funky old (thank God) fixed friend i slumped on to to belay once vocal contact became impossible (so done in 3 pitches).
with James Clarke
Lead the second pitch....definitely felt harder than 5a but it was my first trad climb in the UK. Some wild moves on the traverse 100ft above the waves....even a funky old (thank God) fixed friend i slumped on to to belay once vocal contact became impossible (so done in 3 pitches).
with James Clarke
alex_th 24 Jan, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Tim Riley
with Tim Riley
shoulders 24 Mar, 2002 AltLd O/S
with dai
with dai
Billg 15 Sep, 2001 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
with Megan Beaumont
Nick Haine 26 Aug, 2001 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Tim Sparrow ?Aug, 1998 AltLd
with Piers Nesbitt
with Piers Nesbitt
NeilGriffiths 16 Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
with Neil Nussey
with Neil Nussey
Si Witcher ??, 1997 -
Hidden ??, 1996 -
pauldrew ??, 1994 -
Hidden 6 Aug, 1993 Lead
Hidden 5 May, 1991 2nd
Brian Wilderspin 1 Apr, 1991 AltLd rpt
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
Hidden ??, 1990 -
Hidden 6 Aug, 1988 Lead
steve taylor ?May, 1988 Lead
with Dave Gilkes
with Dave Gilkes
Mike Owen 16 Aug, 1985 AltLd O/S
with Ian Carr
with Ian Carr
Steve Clegg 15 Apr, 1982 AltLd
with Gough
with Gough
Hidden 7 Jun, 1981 -
Hidden 7 Jun, 1981 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1980 AltLd
Steve Lewis 17 Jun, 1979 Lead O/S First Accent
with Charlie
First Accent
with Charlie
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 35
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set