30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This breath-taking traverse follows the lower line below the main roof. The climbing is never very difficult and the positions are amazing. Start from the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch of Galactic Co-ordinator, reached by either doing this pitch or by scrambling easily down from the top.
1) 4c, 15m. Swing around the arete onto the main face and follow the break below the roof to a wild stance on an arete.
2) 5a, 15m. Continue traversing along the break, past the crack of Deep Throat, to a large ledge. Scramble off easily. © Rockfax

FA. C.Heard, S.Lewis 17.6.79 17/Jun/1979

Ticklists: HVS Adventures, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, Orange Spot Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses.

chrisbrown2050 28/Aug 2nd dog

I'd asked Trevor to push me and I got it! P1 ok with one minor fall. Hanging belay was scary! P2 hard; each move manageable but holds wet, and with bad footwork couldn't hold on and rested 3x on gear. Managed the rockover at least. Epic. I'm new to Pembroke HVS' but found this far harder to second than galactic coordinator. No birds or poo.

with Trevor PCC
Hidden 28/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug AltLd
aiyer 26/Aug AltLd

Eek.... Got to lead P2! ????

with JakeB.
wnicholson 13/Aug AltLd O/S
steve-grigg 13/Aug AltLd O/S
khalidq 12/Aug AltLd O/S
with Max Adamson
Hidden 04/Aug AltLd
bryan61 04/Aug AltLd O/S
with sally
aiyer 02/Jul AltLd dnf

Birds nesting so traversed back to the ledge...

with Wendy
Wendy Watthews 02/Jul AltLd dnf

Fantastic abb to the ledge above the sea, Aby took the first pitch and I got the first traverse to a wonderful hanging belay from a giant thread. Unfortunately the break in the second pitch was occupied by a family of nesting birds, not wanting to disturb them or indeed get our eyes pecked out by the parents Aby had the joy of reaching the belay only to swap gear and reverse lead the traverse she had just seconded.

with Abby
timrooker 16/Apr AltLd O/S

led p1, wet and greasy holds throughout (except just after the p2 crux, a much appreciated 'in the bag' moment) and such an epic position. topped out to the sunset, never been so happy to finish a route before haha

benkelsey 16/Apr AltLd O/S

Like dipping your hands into the beach just after a wave. Strong effort from Tim on p1. If pitch 1 is that bad, what's pitch two going to be like? Had dusk chasing our heels as as we sideways'd out.

with Tim rooker
dmorgan27 29/Oct/16 AltLd
gingernick 29/Oct/16 AltLd


with Alex Duckett, Darrell
Dizz 01/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Alison atholl
Hidden 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
matt1024 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Only did the traverse pitches, led the first. Excellent route, very adventurous.

with mcondon
Hidden 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Dean Russell 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Stanners 10/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

led P2. Here we go again..the first of the adventurous scary HVS's of the trip! I do like some deviant fun..brilliant route even in the poor weather and on greasy rock. Classic fun.

with Giles
onlyfoddington 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Lead the first and third pitch - what a traverse. Very nearly ran out of gas at the end.

with Ian
ian d f 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

good fun at the grade

DubyaJamesDubya 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Amazing climb. Great positions and sustained.

with Joe Harris
poeter210 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Gripping! Hard very stressful!

Hidden 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
s.thursz 16/Aug/15 2nd
Will Mortimer 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Lead P1

gurumed 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch. Excellent route.

with gjd
gjd 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

led p 2.

with Gurumed
Lessworkmoreclimbing 26/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Peak Climbing Club outing on rough sea day. Memorable!

with Kev
Graeme Hammond 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Not very epic except maybe for steve... easy jugs and jams. Excellent fun.

stevelismore 26/Aug/14 2nd dog

God this climb was hard work-scarecely any footholds, and wet too. Nearly got it clean but hand slipped on wet rock and I fell off just before the belay.

Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 22/Feb/14 AltLd O/S


with Henry
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 12/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
gg4419 12/Aug/13 AltLd rpt

Not technically a whole repeat as we never made it all the way round last year, this time we did and it was fantastic as expected, great exposure for HVS, top route well worthy of three stars. No bird poo post nesting season for those wondering.

Anthony Dixon 04/May/13 AltLd
with Connor
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd
adie84 ??/2013 -
gg4419 15/Sep/12 AltLd dnf
with Nick
nickstephens 15/Sep/12 AltLd dnf

Where is the "had an epic" in the style option? Waited to see if rain would clear, still went for it although lateish, wrong belay, damp holds, etc. Great route :-)

cem 25/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1 but didn't belay in the right place so Kirill got a longer second pitch

Kirill 25/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Better than Heart of Darkness!

Hidden 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead dnf
soph 28/Jul/12 AltLd
with Annelies Sarrazyn
haydng 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great exposure and pump under the massive overhang!

with Dave
Kevster 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Prone to seepage. Exciting!

Compo 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Kev Faux
CRiddiford 10/Mar/12 AltLd dnf

Not one to do on a wet/misty day or maybe just not until summer, given the seepage over half of it...when it starts greasy, remember to turn back before you're half way and being dripped on!!

with Chris
chrism225 10/Mar/12 AltLd dnf

So wet, but so fun, and so glad to get off of it! :)

Hidden ??/2012 -
Swotson 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Awesome unforgettable route. Wild, unlikely positions. Wimped out of leading 2nd pitch. Reminded me of Craig y Longridge but high above the sea! Can't wait to go back and lead it next time:-)

with Will Taylor
will9911 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Alison
Hidden 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
jgordon75 19/Aug/11 AltLd


Owen W-G 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Steep and intimidating for the grade with lots of guanno infested jugs. Harder than Heart of Darkness.

with Jim
Oliver Sherman 30/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Took a factor 2 fall onto an inproptu belay after much faffage and an attempt on a day when the rock was wet. Apparently the route is a bit epic prone, I think I can see why!

with John Eales
Rowan Mitchell 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S

P1 Alan, P2 Alan. After the first pitch we were both beasted and looking for an easy escape. Preferring the less pumpy crack, Alan climbed (with aiding) part of the second pitch of Deep Throat then found an easy hand traverse off to the right. A fully outrageous climb!

PAJames ??/2011 -
Alan100 ??/2011 -

There's no way this is the same grade as Riders! Had to rest on gear after finding a damp hold on the first pitch. Decided I was too pumped to do the second traverse pitch so tried to go up the crack instead. Ethics were swiftly abandoned in favour of pulling on gear and swearing a lot. Eventually got past the first overhang and escaped out right. Despite feeling thoroughly sandbagged I had great time and it's a brilliant route. Reckon it's E1 though where the 'E' stands for Epic!

jon_gill1 28/Aug/10 AltLd dnf

john led the first pitch and i tried the second!after get pumped out a 3rd of the way along the traverse i decided to rest on the gear knowing that it wasnt great.5 mins went by and the the cam popped sending me down into the E3 below.battered and shocked im climbed back up and escaped by leading the first pitch in reverse!amazing positions!need more strength and more balls!I WILL RETURN!

JWB 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

What a position and the belay is just wild. Only pitch one climbed though. Jon tried pitch 2 and could not commit so he had to lead back along pitch 1.

duncana 28/Aug/10 2nd

Possibly my worst / scariest / hardest ever climbing experience. Feet really bad on first pitch, and generally found it really strenuous (probably just poor technique on my part...), and being a traverse over nothing didn't really want to fall off even seconding. Very happy to finish it. Arms felt wrecked the next day.

with Pippa Archer
Hidden 27/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/10 -
Hidden ?/Mar/10 -
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
spacey 05/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Paul Evans 05/Sep/09 AltLd
with spacey
matt.woodfield 29/Aug/09 Lead
steve.warrington 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Stuart Llewellyn, Matt Woodfiled
david morse 17/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with General
Fat Tim 17/Aug/09 AltLd dog

I led the first pitch clean, mark did the rest as one pitch, I fell and took a swing, leaving my self a little bruised and off route. Some prussiking occured.

with Mark kauntz
nicolat ??/2009 Lead O/S
Paul Bowen 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. super exposed and exciting

Hidden 28/Sep/08 AltLd
just one more 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S


with tim b
morganator 23/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Neil McAdie
Hidden 16/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
greenclimb 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 15/Aug/08 AltLd
LC ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
david morse ?/Aug/06 Lead dog


with rampant
Boxy ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Mick
Morgan Woods ?/Aug/05 Lead dog

Lead the second pitch....definitely felt harder than 5a but it was my first trad climb in the UK. Some wild moves on the traverse 100ft above the waves....even a funky old (thank God) fixed friend i slumped on to to belay once vocal contact became impossible (so done in 3 pitches).

with James Clarke
alex_th 24/Jan/04 AltLd O/S
with Tim Riley
shoulders 24/Mar/02 AltLd O/S
with dai
Billg 15/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 26/Aug/01 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Tim Sparrow ?/Aug/98 AltLd
with Piers Nesbitt
NeilGriffiths 16/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Neil Nussey
Hidden ??/1996 -
Hidden 05/May/91 2nd
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
with LUMC
Hidden 06/Aug/88 Lead
steve taylor ?/May/88 Lead
with Dave Gilkes
Mike Owen 16/Aug/85 AltLd O/S
with Ian Carr
jon 07/Jun/81 -
with Ian
Hidden 07/Jun/81 -
Steve Lewis 17/Jun/79 Lead O/S

First Accent

with Charlie
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 32
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 30
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