Rockfax Description
This route follows the big-but-not-as-big-as-the-other-one crack, in the right-hand side of the wall. © Rockfax

FA. P.Whillance 02/Jan/1978

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Pembroke VDiff-HVS.

mr_w 19/Sep/17 Lead O/S

VS 4c?! Seemed much harder... Very sustained and thuggy. Definitely squeaky bum time on the crux section.

Adderbury Climber 19/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with Ceri
ollyrowe 25/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Matt H
Hidden 13/Aug/17 2nd β
khalidq 13/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Ian Lau
Hidden 16/Jul/17 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/17 2nd
Hidden 09/Jul/17 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/17 2nd rpt
Dan Vaj 16/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Khalid
CRead 16/Jun/17 2nd
khalidq 16/Jun/17 Lead rpt
MarcinK 29/May/17 Lead O/S

Greasy warm-up

with Ivan Tanner
GLO 28/May/17 2nd O/S
JamesWilliams 19/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Kirill 15/Apr/17 2nd
with Ilia
Ilia Nadyrbayev 15/Apr/17 Lead
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
megdc ??/2017 -
Hidden 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S
jamie d 16/Sep/16 Lead O/S
simibrown 10/Sep/16 AltLd
with andre
Mike Hewitt 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Cheeks 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Bakewell
cpforbes 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
KevB 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Damp greasy start.

with Pete
samkat 28/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Adina, Joe Hiley
JHiley 28/Aug/16 2nd
with Adina , Sameer
WillAndrew 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
john max 27/Aug/16 2nd
with Julian Sorrell
pete87abs ?/Aug/16 -
with gidmord
Joemanglerocks 03/Jul/16 Lead
TimKnight 03/Jul/16 2nd
mapperley samurai 01/Jul/16 2nd
with Andy Hemsted
ginger 27/Jun/16 2nd
with Nick
tyho 24/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with James O Tool
Hidden 31/May/16 Lead
hazeysunshine 30/May/16 2nd
with Milena
cathymiller 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Michael Constantinou
Jenn_Stretton 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Absolutely polished to hell and sandbagged at VS, especially with the heat making the polished rock super slimey! Definitely my scariest lead but glad I pushed through and didn't 'follow through'

DaveThexton 28/May/16 2nd O/S
SenzuBean 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Lovely climb - enjoyed it a lot :) Didn't need to jam at all IIRC.

with Barry
BarrySW19 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Nice climb - some strenuous moves near the top.

with Jon
Georgina Brooke 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Used lots of knees because got a bit intimidated by crashing sea

tyho 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
steveprice.exmouth 30/Sep/15 Lead
with Graham Mead
burto 24/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Troy
benwmorgan 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
mike.moss 06/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Richard Kendrick 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Jim
Dave Mahon 27/Aug/15 2nd

A good, solid VS. Good lead Justin.

with Justin Sharpe
Hidden 27/Jul/15 Lead
Ian Jones 27/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
ollie1 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Pete Cawley
BTphonehome 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

A nice line but didn't enjoy the climbing. Odd conditions and very greasy. Don't think those blocks in the upper part will be there forever.

with Tony
tmawer 20/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Greasy and rather spooky.

with Bram
M_Robinson 17/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Kris2fa 17/Jun/15 2nd dog
Adam24B 17/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Hugobristol 07/Jun/15 2nd
with Sascha
hotfeet 21/May/15 Lead
the power 11/May/15 2nd O/S
with rob
dr_botnik 11/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/15 2nd
SEDaniels 04/May/15 2nd O/S
with Dom Pearce
CRiddiford 03/Apr/15 Lead
Jake Young 03/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 03/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Phil Baxter
Charlie Low 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Absolutely awesome route! Definitely leading next time I'm there!

with Joel Miller
callumbtaylor 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Gainz 22/Mar/15 2nd dog

Didn't enjoy it. The overhang sucked a lot of energy out me, fell off thrice - got there in the end though.

Joel Miller 22/Mar/15 Lead
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
gurumed 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with gjd
gjd 25/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Gurumed
Flavio 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Papa J Love 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
mossrug 31/Aug/14 -
Hidden 29/Aug/14 2nd O/S
AndyMcCoy 23/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Luke
skippington 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Welly Matt 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
CameronH 20/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Laurence Knowles, Alex Law
GDS 15/Jun/14 2nd
with cris
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
HazelMacLean 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

YEAH! Definitely thuggy.

Lizzie B 10/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Alfie Maun 05/May/14 Lead
matt.stevenson 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Ed Hayter ?/May/14 2nd O/S
Pathological_Climber 21/Apr/14 2nd
Oliver Tilbury 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
bigbobbyking 12/Apr/14 -

A bit greasy. Found difficult.

with David Brock
onlyfoddington 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Steep and sustained.

David Maddison 11/Apr/14 2nd
steve-grigg 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 30/Mar/14 -
Hidden 15/Mar/14 2nd rpt
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 27/Aug/13 Lead
mr random 25/Aug/13 Lead
with Alic Cook
L.miura 25/Aug/13 2nd
with Julie Carroll
Martin Bagshaw 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
Julie Carroll 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Leiko
Rafal Malczyk 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Martin Bagshaw
JP78 24/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
froglette 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with John Proudfoot
mikecollins 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Lauradavies23 10/Aug/13 2nd
Nigel Coe 03/Aug/13 Lead
with Pete Kelly
JonathanJones 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Liam
LiamAD 02/Aug/13 2nd
Dilwat 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
nickdonohue 26/Jul/13 2nd

Dodgy blocks lodged at the top of the chimney. Beware!

Melanie Parkin 15/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Matt Taylor
clams ?/Jun/13 Lead
with Jim
Hidden 23/May/13 Lead
khalidq 19/May/13 2nd O/S
with Rob Powell
michael burrows 06/May/13 Lead rpt
nic42 05/May/13 2nd RP
with josh
Dennis999 05/May/13 2nd O/S
with Remus
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
mrchewy 03/May/13 Lead O/S

First VS.

Albachoss 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Spoon
HarryB 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Camilla
catty_9 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
VPJB ??/2013 -
Sarah Black ??/2013 Lead O/S
Sam Melville ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Jillybean 29/Oct/12 Lead
with Brad
cpt_crunch 15/Oct/12 Lead
Nick Russell 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A good route, pretty steady for VS 4c. Surprised to find it protects really well without anything too large.

with Emily
tim.fairhall 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Matt
Half Pint Lizz 26/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Lynn Liu
mattyork2 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing. Steady away on good holds. Good to get the confidence back after yesterday's knock....Steady away to getting back into it all and VS is probably where I am comfortably at.

petellis 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Sankey 12/Aug/12 Lead
with jon h, Ed
richiebongo 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
matjam 15/Jul/12 Lead
Katya 15/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Coops_13 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Really Good Route

Louise Hall 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
alasdair19 ?/Jun/12 -
w-watson 19/May/12 Lead
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Matt88 05/May/12 2nd

pretty greasy

with Joe M
joem 05/May/12 Lead O/S

Bloodys hard work for vs!!

Hidden 11/Apr/12 2nd O/S
ritchierich 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd β
Mattb1421 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with monty
monsteratt 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Matt lead. Good route and steeper than it looks at the top.

with Richard, Matt Barnett
pie_eater_pete 02/Apr/12 2nd
cf2g08 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S
murray ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
mountain.martin 28/Jan/12 Lead rpt
pembrokeshirecaver 28/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Martin
Polly4 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 13/Nov/11 2nd rpt
LardClimber 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Williams
hels bels 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Paulos 25/Sep/11 Lead
d_meacher 25/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Mr Sparkle 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Lindsey Pearson
LovelyMrTom 29/Aug/11 2nd
Ketu 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Tom E
AndyMcCoy 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead
smolders 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Tracey T
John Tanner 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Oli Brend
owb106 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
matthewjames 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 19/Aug/11 2nd
mountain.martin 10/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Charlie Evans 11/Jul/11 Lead
jacktomlinson 11/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Fatboy1000 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Really interesting climbing, crack at the bottom was a bit greasy, steep in places. Nice!

Hidden 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Jams Crwca 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with Ed morris, Martin
stergeboy 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great climb, I'd give it two stars...

ScottyD 28/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead
frume 24/May/11 2nd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Blurgy319 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
John Roe 23/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Sgt. Vest 09/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/11 2nd
david morse 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with siobhan
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Neil Henson ??/2011 -
Elliot Carrington ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Tristan Pollitt
Hidden ??/2011 -
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
matt.woodfield 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Geras 11/Oct/10 2nd

seb had a bit of a mare on this and rested on the lead twice.

Hidden 03/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
GarethHall 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 08/Aug/10 TR O/S
manwithacam 08/Aug/10 Lead

Good intro to area- steep. Sustained and a bit greasy, great line though.

with Dovydas
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd
DanH9883 29/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lee
Philippa Arding 24/May/10 2nd
with helen pitt
hepitt 24/May/10 Lead O/S

Good route, crux in the middle

with Phillipa Arding
Phil PBC 18/May/10 Lead O/S


agibb 03/May/10 Lead O/S
lyneux 03/May/10 Lead

Loose blocks at the top give it a necky feel!

with Chris Bull
nic42 03/May/10 2nd O/S
with Sarah R, Matt
mes32 01/May/10 2nd
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd
Richard Hall 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Adam M
katherinesydney 04/Apr/10 2nd O/S


with gary burgess
Chris Sansum 25/Mar/10 Lead dog

1 rest. No more climbs that day due to rain!

with Gary Lewin
JonBrown 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Grace
Shonkhor 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Nice features at the start then a pretty thuggy crack. Put me back on Amorican please!

with Alex UBMC
irish paul 07/Mar/10 2nd
with Tim W
Tim W 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
RobRock84 23/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Adam Bevan
Ed morris 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S

very similar to cheiftan. lots of gear and good moves :)

with mark dwyer
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Fat Tim 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Mark kauntz
Mattzx6r 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Stu
Twisty 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel Stock
godusty 08/May/09 -
tweedcore 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S


d_meacher 21/Feb/09 2nd O/S
annabel hodges 15/Feb/09 2nd O/S

Really good :)

with Jon Bleiker
matsavage 15/Nov/08 Lead dog

1 Fall from gigantic loose chock-stone,

gjd 26/Sep/08 Lead
with Ewan
Hidden 13/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Kyle Rance 03/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/08 Lead
freemanTom 02/Aug/08 Lead

Ascent split over year and a half. Decked out from 30 foot on first attempt, Helicopter ride resulted. Rubbish gear placement. 2nd attempt slick and controlled.

with Jenny Watson
eagleopus 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Gareth
gareth r 02/Aug/08 2nd
with Hywel
Ramon Marin 25/May/08 2nd O/S
with Gerry Sheehy
RocknRoll 25/May/08 Lead O/S

Raining, but winds from East kept the rain off St. Govans face, greasy though and wet at the top.

with Ramon Marin Martinez
jude s ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with G Fry
Hidden ?/May/08 TR
Mark Walter 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah and Alex
Hidden 04/Apr/08 2nd
haydng 27/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Hidden ??/2008 Lead RP
Beck Robinson 21/Oct/07 Lead dnf
Beck Robinson 21/Oct/07 2nd RP
khawk 07/Sep/07 Lead
with WH
Circus 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Pollard
dan gibson 24/Jun/07 Lead O/S
cragdan 24/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Dan Gibson
Kirill 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with Claudia Fritz, Chris Donica
ellentaylor 26/May/07 2nd O/S
with 31770
Hjort 06/May/07 2nd
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
Sgt. Vest 05/May/07 Lead O/S
jepotherepo 21/Apr/07 -
Katya 08/Apr/07 2nd
with Mike
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 AltLd
Hidden 31/Mar/07 Lead
vet ??/2007 Lead
with Helen
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
RichS-Bristol ??/2007 -
Wil Treasure ??/2007 Lead
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
andysroom ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
keefe 01/Sep/06 -
with Tansy
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
colkurtz 31/Aug/06 2nd
with Andy, Karin
davidwright 27/Aug/06 Lead
waltersp ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Feb/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
al99 ?/Aug/05 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd
snowy white 13/Jul/05 AltLd
with simon antonon
snowy white 12/Jul/05 AltLd
with simon antonon
Hidden 24/Apr/05 2nd
reg_measures 26/Mar/05 2nd O/S
with steve burdett
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/04 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/04 Lead
Neil Henson 20/Jun/04 2nd

Scary route. Glad I didn't try and lead this one. Steep, polished and pumpy.

with Mark Collins
Mark Collins 20/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Neil Henson
Hidden 23/Mar/04 Lead
chris wyatt ??/2004 Lead O/S
dicky79 ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Vic Odell
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 24/Aug/03 2nd
with Paul Stevens, Jill Stevens
mikeyjbs 23/Aug/03 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Shona D'arcy
Marq 06/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Digger 25/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
cem 03/May/03 2nd
with Pete Atkinson
duncana 03/May/03 2nd

Bit scary for me, decided to wedge myself in chimney so I didn't fall off!

with Pippa Archer
easily amused male ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S


Julian Wedd ??/2003 Lead
with unknown
EllieWoods ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Trevor
petecallaghan 04/May/02 Lead O/S
with Pete Durkin
Tarquin ??/2002 -
PaulTclimbing ??/2002 -
with Johnjames, Trelewis gang, Neville, Adrian, Neil, Howell graham
Hidden 20/Aug/01 Lead
Woody63 20/Aug/01 2nd
with Dave W
Different Steve ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Rupert Holbrook
Tarquin ??/2001 -
Hidden 29/Jul/00 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jun/00 Lead
Hidden 24/Jun/00 Lead
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead
with Karen Ghiselli
timreynolds 25/Sep/99 2nd
with Gary Jackson
Chris Murray ?/Aug/99 2nd
with Richard Bower
Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/97 AltLd
Reds 27/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Sezer
richsmithinbristol 21/Sep/97 Lead
Jim Brooke 21/Sep/97 2nd O/S
with Rich
pete johnson 24/May/97 2nd
with Lun
simon kimber ??/1997 TR
with Nick Kimber
Steve Long ??/1997 Lead
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
mikej 01/Oct/96 2nd
with Mike Byles
five ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Ruth Allan ??/1996 2nd O/S

With Imperial College Mountaineering Club.

Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/94 2nd
whispering nic ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Kat
Hidden 31/May/93 2nd
Rob Davies ?/Apr/93 2nd
with Mick Moss, Charles Kinniburgh
Richard Weller ??/1993 AltLd
with John Temple
Mark Kemball 28/Jul/92 2nd
with Alison Dorey
Hidden 10/May/92 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/92 2nd
steve taylor ?/May/91 Lead
with steve kerr
Hidden 01/Oct/90 Lead O/S
nuts and bolts ?/Sep/90 -
michael burrows 13/Apr/90 2nd
with steve williams
Bullybones ??/1990 -
Hidden ?/Aug/88 Lead
BigHairyIan 06/Apr/88 Lead O/S
with Little Dean (Dean Gibbs)
Tony Buckley ?/Mar/88 Lead
with Robert Clark
Hidden 25/Sep/87 Lead
Mike Owen 30/Jul/87 2nd β
with Elaine Owen
Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1987 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1986 -
Nigel Coe ??/1986 -
Neil R 28/Jul/85 Lead
with Sharon
Dave Musgrove 10/Apr/85 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 08/Apr/85 2nd O/S
with Arve
scree ?/Apr/84 -
Martin Bennett 03/Nov/83 -
with RA, Chris Craggs
Nigel Coe 27/Aug/83 -
with Tim Dunsby
Lone Rider ??/1982 -
tapley 23/May/81 AltLd
with John Sumner
Hidden 02/Jan/78 2nd
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 56
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set