Rockfax Description
An excellent and popular route which follows the main line of the wall. The climbing in the groove is superb and very pumpy. The upper wall is much easier but has some loose rock so make sure you get some good gear in. Start beneath the weakness in the lower wall. Climb up to the flake/crack and follow good holds up its left-hand side. From the top of the pedestal move up into the groove and follow it leftwards. At a small bulge pull back right onto the upper wall. Follow this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 21/Jul/1978

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Becky's ticklist.

tim whitaker 18/Sep 2nd
with Callum Johnson
Hidden 18/Sep Lead O/S
Hannes B 29/Aug Lead O/S
with Charlie
CharlieMack 29/Aug 2nd O/S
with Sarah adkin, Hannes
scottcoates 26/Aug Lead O/S
with williap
williap 26/Aug 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Aug Lead O/S
Stanners 14/Jul Lead O/S

by the skin of my teeth! Nearly pumped out, but shear ignorance got me up it. Chuffed to tick this mega classic. What a route!!!

with Kel Vargas, Tom Rogers
Holister 04/Jun Lead O/S

Bit to traddy for my liking, but still worth it.

with Ali
Misha 29/May Lead O/S

Greasy and hence hard! Spent a while going up to the groove and back down to the rest, at one point did a couple of moves into the groove before downclimbing. Eventually committed and it proved tricky but doable despite the greasefest conditions. Moving into and out of the undercuts in the roof was the crux section but the final pull round onto the slab was tricky as well. Definitely felt E3.5 on the day.

with Phil
philhilo 29/May 2nd dog

Grease fest up the crack. Finally pumped out and off at the top of the crack.

with misha
Sophie Nunn 20/May Lead O/S
with Mike R, Jane W
Jane Weir 20/May 2nd β
with Mike R, Sophie Nunn
benkelsey 19/Apr 2nd rpt

Took the correct line out of the groove this time, funnily enough; on Pembroke hoofters! not slapping some joke arete. Greasy in the hot sun - effort Shaun.

with Shaun Humphreys
Jake Young 19/Apr 2nd O/S
with Ben, Shaun
Timothy Miller 18/Apr Lead O/S
shaunhumphreys 18/Apr Lead G/U

About time, still a bit greasy but such an amazing climb, what more could you want out of a route?

Hidden 15/Apr 2nd dog
benkelsey 15/Apr Lead RP

Had it for breakfast. took a high (scary) line out from the final roof. Good to put this one to bed. Sorry for the abuse Ed.

with mrteale
Elliot Walker 15/Apr Lead O/S
mrteale 15/Apr 2nd rpt
pete johnson 15/Apr 2nd rpt
with Elliot
Hidden 13/Apr 2nd
Robb Bert 27/Mar Lead O/S
with Steve George
Chris Redding 12/Mar 2nd dog

Wet under-cling under the roof. Pumped off after struggling to get a nut out in the first bit of the groove. Top notch lead from jack.. maybe one to come back to...

Jack93 12/Mar Lead O/S

Was a bit damp in the groove but not too bad overall, definitely had the pump going by the top off it though.

Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
La Mont 17/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Ellis
Adam24B 15/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Bit polished but quality

M_Robinson 15/Aug/16 2nd rpt
mrteale 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Alex B, Chris M
pete johnson 08/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Greg Cunningham 07/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Debbie
The Grist 07/Aug/16 2nd
Ed Babs 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 04/Aug/16 2nd
with Ed
eel ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 31/Jul/16 2nd dog
with Ed
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 05/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Lukasz Warzecha, James Taylor
Hidden 05/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 04/Jun/16 2nd rpt

Its a tricky little bugger this one!

Richard Kendrick 30/May/16 Lead β
jon_gill1 30/May/16 2nd dog

got really boxed on this tough number!rested twice

Julesthe1st 29/May/16 2nd dog

Seconded route to retrieve someones gear. Tough crux section. Very greasy which made it feel even harder.

with random Yorkshireman
NDD 29/May/16 Lead O/S
GPN 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Annette
Chris_barr 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Laura
soph 07/May/16 2nd rpt
with Gosia Lipinski
Stefan_Morris 04/May/16 Lead O/S
markalmack 30/Apr/16 2nd rpt
WB 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S

strangely pumpy considering the length of the difficulties

Ollie B 17/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Fell off crux as missed footholds and ignored the massive undercut. Lowered down and did clean 2nd go. Climbing like a pleb.

with W.Calvert
Ellis Bird ??/2016 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S

surprisingly pumpy short middle section up that groove...

Andrew Wilson 01/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
Tom.Priestley 01/Sep/15 2nd dog

Fluffed it trying to get scotts wires out the crux

Tom.Priestley 01/Sep/15 TR rpt

Got lowered back down and did it on top rope to prove it was ok. Pumpy!

rajeshwarbisht 31/Aug/15 2nd dnf
with Flavio
Scott Quinn 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

really nice well protected climbing with good rests, not that pumpy

FlavioL1989 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Brian H 18/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Super route. Very pumpy and much harder than Space Cadet.

benkelsey 15/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Almost over but pumped out and took a much bigger lob than expected after exploding a (solid looking) cam placement and falling onto the bomber wires below. Thanks for catching me shaun amidst the shards of rock. Had to ab for the gear in the dark.

with Shaun Humphreys
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd β
mynyddresident 28/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Very good, tricky feet. Feeling pretty unwell with a virus and started wretching horribly after the crux!

with KP
ollie1 17/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Loose block came off on bottom section and fell with no gear and broken heal and lesson learnt.

Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Dan724 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Brendan Fraser
ian d f 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
pearson9596 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Luxulyan 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Alastair
alastairbegley 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Fantastic climbing, very pumpy!

with Richard
tobydunford 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
ben.phillips 23/May/15 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 23/May/15 Lead rpt

Climbed clean after getting gripped and falling off last visit. Glad I tried it again- felt much smoother and confident.

with Ben Philips
climbomaniac 09/May/15 Lead O/S

Great fun and a little delicate

quiffhanger 09/May/15 2nd rpt

If you find a nut-key at the bottom of this it's mine!

M_Robinson 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Was absolutely gripped! The holds coming under the bulges were super greasy which made it very interesting

DanielGyi 04/May/15 2nd

It ain't easy when it's greazy

adam 24 18/Apr/15 2nd β

Disappointed not to finished the lead on this one - felt knackered after previous adventures

with Ross
quiffhanger 18/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Mostly on Adam's gear after he got a little too frazzled on the very warm and greasy crux.

Hidden 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 11/Apr/15 Lead dog

Got extremely pumped and sat on a wire before the route branches out right. The line in the guide wasn't all that clear- the branch was earlier than I thought. I was pretty gripped by this point though and probably would have fallen off anyway. Finished after one rest but it was a battle. Planning to come back in May to try again.

with Andy Cmc
Tom Livingstone 08/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Oli Grounsell
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Duncan Campbell 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant and very tricky! Disconcertingly easy up to the groove and then it really earns its hard E3 rep. Well protected though it is pumpy to get good kit in. Top slab is steady but not piss, fortunately you can take your time

Nick Russell 05/Apr/15 Lead dog

A bit too testing. Fluffed the moves up to the undercut and took a big lob. Just about managed to gibber to the top. Removing the nut I fell on turned out to be the hardest part... best part of 10 minutes hammering at it from an ab rope.

ollie_e 04/Apr/15 Lead dnf

End of the day, pumpy to place gear. Lowered off a cam from about 2/3s height. Will be back.

James Oswald 03/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Mike
jonleighton 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Jon Leighton
NuclearNev ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
oliverpcain ??/2015 Lead G/U
with Harriet Ridley
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
simon kimber 05/Sep/14 Lead dog


with Rob Andrews
Sarah Black 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 30/Aug/14 2nd

Took an obscene amount of time trying to work out the tricky direct start with many failed attempts. Got there in the end but apparently we should have started to the right of this.

with ali k
Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Apharri 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
bigie bob 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 13/Aug/14 2nd rpt
tim newton 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
JM 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo, Dave Pinnington
redjerry 08/Jul/14 Lead
with Ed Morris
Ed morris 08/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Jerry Handren
Dean Russell 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mountain_jay 04/May/14 2nd O/S

Pumpy in the groove! The actual step right isn't as bad as you think.

Pippa 04/May/14 Lead rpt
Justin T 03/May/14 2nd
with Rachel
Rachel Slater 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Pumpy and slippery!

anguskille 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Pumpy placing wires! Claimed the o/s but apparently i seconded it a few years ago? Didn't realise until I came to log it!

The Grist 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
fennerz 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Angus Kille
Lilifa 17/Apr/14 2nd
Brown 17/Apr/14 Lead

previously failed on the 1st January 2008 with Harry

with Lilifa
Ed morris 13/Apr/14 Lead β

Led the 'proper' finish through the steep crack. So much better than the rockfax topo that led me astray the first time.

with Martin
Cardi 30/Mar/14 2nd

One rest on crux

with Pete G
James S 14/Mar/14 Lead dnf

the lay-back crack was a bit damp and came off a few moves into it. great route though and will be back for it!

with dan
Stephen Horne - Rockfax ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
robgixer 05/Oct/13 2nd
masa-alpin 05/Oct/13 Lead dog

Fell off at the crux, utterly pumped. It was due to the mistake in logistics - I passed obvious gear, planning to place one higher above hanging on a jug, but the hold turned out to be pretty bad in a steep terrain - I managed to put in a runner, which I was not 100% happy with, and hesitated to commit to the above, climbing up and down, and that eventually tired myself beyond my limit... The same mistake as L'Horla. I should learn!!

with Rob G
w.pettet-smith ?/Sep/13 -
Matt Cooke 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
mikeyjbs 12/Aug/13 Lead β
with Charles Green
Tom Livingstone 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Alice Thompson 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Michael Porter
Fran S8 06/May/13 2nd
nicolat ?/May/13 Lead dog

greasy as....

with James Mitchell
willoates 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

bit wet at the bottom, felt like a hard move until i spotted the massive undercut :P

with soph
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd
colesy 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Sasha Coombes
Nick Sillem ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
HarryB 22/Sep/12 2nd dog
with Ross
pembrokeshirecaver 22/Sep/12 2nd dog

1 fall moving out of the groove but surprised I got so far.

with Adam
Dangerous Dave 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Hard worrk but good

with Dave O
Ed morris 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Went the rockfax way (out right before the crack). Not the pumpfest i was expecting but still a fantastic route and perfect breezy conditions.

with Adam Bevan
dave o 17/Sep/12 2nd
gregoritos 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 13/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Dougie
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 12/Aug/12 2nd dog

This was hard. Very hard.

with Si
quiffhanger 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Luckily Pete stopped me launching into the super-thin finger crack by pointing out the obviously correct line to the right.

theotherpetehill 14/Jul/12 2nd
with Ross McKerchar
Billg 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ollie
barni 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with fra
david morse 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Josh,Nath+Mikey
melonmike 13/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Josh, Dave Morse
sam820 08/Apr/12 2nd
with Murdoch
bigie bob 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Pippa 05/Apr/12 Lead dog

Rested at the crux, super-pumpy

with Tink
pie_eater_pete 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
bwestwood ?/Apr/12 2nd
Ciro 25/Mar/12 Lead RP
with Ramon
Ciro 18/Mar/12 Lead dog

Spicy! Took a couple of falls at the crux, and then got pretty sketched out on the traverse and slab to the top. Look forward to giving this another go.

with Ramon
Ramon Marin 17/Mar/12 Lead dnf
with ciaran tracey
Adam Booth 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd
Mike_Hayes 27/Aug/11 Lead

Lead on Jon's gear up to crux

Ian Jones 19/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Felt harder this time around. Deserves status as hardest E3 in the Rockfax list. Polished.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Speeddemonsi 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 17/Aug/11 2nd
with Si
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S
miastacey ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
thomasadixon 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
C coldwell-storry 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

propper E3.

with rob lay
dannyboy83 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 05/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Glyn 27/May/11 Lead O/S
with Amy
Hidden ?/May/11 -
Chi Cheng 30/Apr/11 Lead β

Top rope to the pro that jon fell on. lead up the rest. jon fell a good 10m or 12m

spidey 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with gus huggins
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 16/Apr/11 Lead dog
with loundsy
Mike Goldthorp 02/Apr/11 Lead RP

Had to get up this quick before Al got wet, felt good to be flying through the moves as fast as I could, nice and efficient way of climbing.

markalmack 07/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with james marjot
IOAN D 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S

wet as they come!

with sion mac
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
nickcanute ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
SuseH 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Iain
drysori 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Easier than Pleasure Dome but nowhere near as good. Two stars for the line, 1 for the climbing. Runners on top section are good.

with Andy Gray
irish paul 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S


with Sarah Joyce
Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
billb ?/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 2nd
Rob Pitt 24/May/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Arding
nick arding 24/May/10 2nd dog
with rob pitt
Hidden 01/May/10 2nd dog
jacobjacob 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 19/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
anguskille 07/Apr/10 2nd O/S

bit pumpy

Hidden 28/Feb/10 2nd O/S
Alex Mason 27/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Stout little route. As hard as E3 can be. Lots and Lots of 5c from leaving the pedastal. push on with the pump cos the good holds keep coming.

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
mattyork2 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Johnny Richard
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead dog
Richard Horn 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Sam the Butcher 13/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with andy latta and tom ce
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Jun/09 2nd
drcorbasisgod 05/Jun/09 Lead RP
belay bunny turned bad ?/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
nicolat ??/2009 2nd
with James Mitchell
tonanf 08/Aug/08 AltLd
with Pep
andi turner 18/Jul/08 Lead
with Gus Hudgins
feilx 12/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with Andy L
morganator 11/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Rich Cross
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
ksjs 05/May/08 Lead dnf

just too clammy on the jams: got too pumped. made it past here onto upper wall but it was just too hot and id given enough. one for another, cooler day. what i did felt brilliant - more pembroke quality

Ricky Rocks 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Chad123 03/May/08 AltLd dog

Alas the crux groove was very slimy and wet so had a couple of rests to think about it. Excellent climbing though and a nice bold section at the top to keep you thinking...

with Sam
bfreeman 09/Feb/08 2nd
with Jon Freeman
jfreeman 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Freeman
nicolat ??/2008 2nd
Adam Ellwood 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Tony Little 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ed Brown
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
JulesV ??/2007 Lead O/S
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 Lead dnf

greased up holds led to a 40 footer off the roof. rather scarey.

Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
feilx 27/May/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Froud
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH 16/May/05 2nd
Hidden 14/Apr/05 Lead RP
dan gibson ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with eddie church
daveayton ??/2005 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Gus 29/May/04 Lead O/S
with simon "the horse" wilson
fyfee8a ??/2004 -
PaulTclimbing ??/2002 -
with Johnjames, Trelewis gang, Neville, Adrian, Neil, Howell graham
Hidden 17/Sep/01 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Viv
Billg ??/2001 -

carried on up the groves to the top. A nice and easier version

dickypips 19/Mar/00 2nd O/S
with Steve James
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead
with Karen Ghiselli
Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden 06/May/99 Lead rpt
The Jazz Butcher ??/1999 -
Hidden 24/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/98 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/May/98 Lead
PaulTanton ?/May/98 Lead dog

A bastard

with Dave Taylor
Hidden ?/May/98 2nd
Si Clapham ??/1998 Lead
with Andy Long
Greg Cunningham ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with guy exley
Hidden 19/Apr/97 Lead
Steve Long ??/1997 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 26/May/96 Lead rpt
with Sonia
craig h 04/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 2nd
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 2nd
with Graham Iles
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 -
innes ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Chris
Roget 05/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with jon
jfletcher 15/Jun/91 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 13/Apr/90 2nd
Steve Crowe 12/Apr/90 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Dave Rumney ??/1990 2nd
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH 29/May/89 Lead
with Nigel Gregory
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
AlexRenshaw 20/Sep/87 Lead
with Simon Donowho
Hidden 24/Jul/87 Lead O/S
KRB 25/May/87 Lead O/S

Sunny and hot

with Neil Gregory
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 13/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 29/Apr/85 -
William Robertson ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Shaun Derry
ukb & bmc shark 17/Sep/84 2nd
steve.aisthorpe 17/Sep/84 Lead
with shark
Steve Lewis 23/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Mark Kemball 22/Apr/83 Lead
with Dave Kenyon
Hidden 11/Jul/81 2nd
jon 11/Jul/81 Lead
with Ian
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
with Martin Corbett
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
27 users have this on their wishlist
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 70
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 63
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set