Rockfax Description
An excellent and popular route - the main line of the wall. The climbing in the groove is superb and pumpy. The upper wall is much easier but can have loose rock so make get some good gear in. Climb up to the flake/crack and follow good holds up its left-hand side. From the top of the pedestal, move up into the groove and follow it leftwards. At a small bulge pull back right onto the upper wall. Follow this to the top with care. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 21/Jul/1978.
Ticklists
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Phoebe & Rob visit Pembroke , 50 Extemes at 50 , Guy's Pembroke dreams
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| benwiessner | 10 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Great climbing in the corner for about 4m - the rest of the route didn\'t seem noteworthy. I\'m actually pretty confused about why this route seems to get a lot of hype? I think Space Cadet is far better. Maybe I missed something... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great climbing in the corner for about 4m - the rest of the route didn't seem noteworthy. I'm actually pretty confused about why this route seems to get a lot of hype? I think Space Cadet is far better. Maybe I missed something... |
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| a_radiohead_fan | 16 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: mega 40 footer from the roof. landed even with the top of the wall. 3!!!! bits of gear ripped on the way down. 1 was a cam in the roof. very unsettling. was a particuarly greasy day and i just slipped off. wont be getting back on it in a hurry. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: mega 40 footer from the roof. landed even with the top of the wall. 3!!!! bits of gear ripped on the way down. 1 was a cam in the roof. very unsettling. was a particuarly greasy day and i just slipped off. wont be getting back on it in a hurry. |
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| kevin stephens | 18 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Don't forget to extend gear under the roof! Big nut just after pulling round then unprotected 4C to the top | ||
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βeta: Don't forget to extend gear under the roof! Big nut just after pulling round then unprotected 4C to the top |
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| JessClmbr | 19 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: There's like only one wire once you leave the groove, that's where there's little gear! Pumpy as all hell in the groove. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's like only one wire once you leave the groove, that's where there's little gear! Pumpy as all hell in the groove. |
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| John Alcock | 25 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Who says all Pembroke E3s are soft for the grade? Well-protected, no hard moves, but pretty pumpy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Who says all Pembroke E3s are soft for the grade? Well-protected, no hard moves, but pretty pumpy. |
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| GDes | 20 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: bloody brilliant. sustained and well protected. dont know where the line about poor gear above the break-there's plenty, and its easy climbing by then. the very first moves off the floor (before the big ledge) are bloody desperate-easy british 7c. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: bloody brilliant. sustained and well protected. dont know where the line about poor gear above the break-there's plenty, and its easy climbing by then. the very first moves off the floor (before the big ledge) are bloody desperate-easy british 7c. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Alien World
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)