Rockfax Description
Sustained and well protected climbing and, like all good cruxes, it's at the top! Start at the same point as Raw Recruits. Climb to the right-hand side of a roof and break rightwards up the crack which is followed with increasing difficulty to a big flat hold. The next bit is best climbed as quickly as possible without thinking too much about your gear. Finish up a short groove above. © Rockfax

FA. B.Berzins 22/Aug/1981

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Trad climbs for sport climbers, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, A lifetimes worth of inspiration, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, The Best of Pembroke.

Hidden 22/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Alice Thompson 19/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Anna
rhoslynfrugtniet 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S

SO GOOD!! First E5

with Si Rawlinson
Adam24B 07/Aug/17 Lead O/S

First E5!!! Psyched to get this, I didn't think the crux was much harder than the rest of it, I just found it very sustained. I may have celebrated a little early getting to the ledge as the final groove was no pushover... A fantastic route

Flavio 07/Aug/17 Lead RP

#3. Fell off last year, straightforward first go today!

Kris2fa 07/Aug/17 2nd dog
with Adam24B
Hidden 07/Aug/17 2nd
robertmichaellovell 05/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Route selection disaster, lack of route fitness evident!

with Sarah, Mark C
Neil Adams 05/Aug/17 2nd O/S
andyinglis 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Thought the hardest moves were low down not at the top! Good way to finish a trip.

Hidden 04/Aug/17 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/17 -
ukb & bmc shark 13/Jul/17 2nd
with Nick Conway
Nickc 13/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Simon lee
Hidden 04/Jun/17 2nd dnf
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 04/Jun/17 Lead dnf

Too fat for this route.

with Windy
Hidden 01/Jun/17 Lead O/S
D.Russell 01/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Adam
MSchobitz 29/May/17 2nd dog

3 falls. Holds are all there, my stamina is not!

amccann 29/May/17 Lead O/S

Pretty happy I forced myself to keep pushing through the pump, 18 pieces of gear probably didn't help.

with Micki
ian bryant 26/May/17 Lead O/S
Timothy Miller 19/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Mega. Did the crux wrong initially, got very pumped and down climbed to the flat holds and managed to get enough back to go again and get to the top!

w.pettet-smith 19/Apr/17 Lead

amazing route, wild crux! done on bens gear. tf as i wouldnt have had a chance otherwise!

with ben
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 17/Apr/17 Lead dog

Fell off the top - bugger! Excellent route which is a series of pumpy sections between semi-rests. When I eventually did the crux I found a foothold far out right which allowed me to layback up the 'arete' to get the good holds higher up.

with Roisin
bede.west 17/Apr/17 2nd dog

Wow! Will be back for the lead eventually.

Katekeltie 15/Apr/17 2nd dog
Duncan Campbell 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant! Have wanted to do this for yonks and was psyched not to mess it up! managed to control the pump the whole way up and fudged my way through the crux. Didn't feel too much harder than the rest of the route.

Toby Dunn ??/2017 Lead
Tubs 13/Nov/16 Lead dnf

'Lead did not get very far' would be more accurate. I knew I was unlikely to succeed but for some reason I couldn't keep away.

with AJM
Hidden 23/Oct/16 2nd dog
Billg 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S

At last. .What a superb route, never hard but god is it pumpy . A great climax to probably my best season ever.

with Will Calvert
dannyboy83 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Lena
Misha 07/Aug/16 2nd rpt

Great lead by Eszter. Seconding didn't feel much easier than leading it two months ago - pumpy! Fortunately the gear came out easily enough.

with Eszter
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Nick Russell 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Awesome! Other than a bit of hesitation leaving the ledge near the top it went smoothly. Just get on with it!

Luke Brooks 27/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Kate
Hidden 27/Jun/16 2nd
Mark Stevenson 04/Jun/16 2nd dog
with Misha
Misha 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Controlled pumpfest. The shakeouts aren't particularly restful but offer enough to get something back. Was a case of put the gear in and go for the next decent holds, rest, repeat. No particularly hard or technical moves but the crux section going up to the ledge is a bit harder (or just feels it as you're tired) and it's all very sustained at 5c with some easy 6a. Top route!

with Mark S
Matt Cooke 30/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
NDD 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Wendy ?/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sash.C
markalmack 30/Apr/16 Lead RP

Sonic boom in ya poon!!! Finally tied in without being gripped. Still got mega pupped at the top. Happy days.

Granitemuncher 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S

One of the best I've tried in Pembroke. crux can be soften up if you use a micro hold on the right. not evident.

with Charly Catalan
khawk 29/Aug/15 Lead dog
will smith11 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Felt steady

with Twisty
Ed morris 07/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Fell off last year, steady today.

with Martin
Hidden 21/Jul/15 Lead
ian d f 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Great lead from Michael

pearson9596 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 03/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Fell off the top of this a couple of years back pumped out my box, felt steady today with more sport fitness behind me.

Adam Booth 03/Jun/15 2nd dog


dan gibson 24/May/15 Lead RP

Failed on this a few years ago. Felt straightforward today.

with Eszter
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
HAJ Francis 05/Apr/15 Lead dog
oliverpcain ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Harriet Ridley
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
nathanlee 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S

So very hot...

with Jack Lawledge
irish paul 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Pippa 22/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with mike
Rachel Slater 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Amazing. Misread the crux the first time and almost fell off. Luckily got a good shake out before trying it again with better beta.

tim newton 19/Aug/14 Lead β

Rachel lead it first and then abbed to strip it. No specific beta though.

JM 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo, Dave Pinnington
Patrick Hill 11/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Dan Geh
brices 16/May/14 Lead O/S

pumpy to place gear, steady till you hit the crux then climb quickly and its over. save having a moment and not wanting to leave the little cave near the top :)

with Llinos
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead β
Rich Kirby 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great moves on crux.

Adam Lincoln 17/Apr/14 Lead β
with Rick Kirby
Hidden 14/Apr/14 Lead
Tom Livingstone 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Sweeeeet! Pretty pumped from the start but managed to hold it together. Chuffed.

piken 02/Jun/13 Lead RP

Fell off top move - pulled ropes and did it in one

with Andy
steve_yo 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with sam ring
soph 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Alex Hughes
Fran S8 06/May/13 Lead

First E5 lead!

morganator 04/May/13 Lead

Awesome pitch. Chuffed to get it clean

with Stan Halstead
Wood for Trees 20/Apr/13 2nd

bloody 'ell, fell off crux. Tim's first E5 onsight, happy days

Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Emma Twyford
willoates 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Psyched to get this, rested up most of it, got pumped at the top though

with barni
barni 29/Mar/13 Lead
with Oates
barni 29/Mar/13 Lead
with Oates
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/12 Lead
JBO 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Stunning route, suits my strengths perfectly but I'm still really pleased to have the onsight. My second E5, nearly dropped the move up to the ledge but dug deep!

Wil Treasure ?/Aug/12 2nd
with Dunc
Hidden 14/Jul/12 Lead dnf
quiffhanger 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Pretty pumped by the time I hit the crux sequence. Good gear so had the confidence to climb it quickly and dynamically despite the run-out.

theotherpetehill 14/Jul/12 2nd dog

Fell just below ledge

with Ross McKerchar
Ramon Marin 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Great onsight. Almost blew it by placing too much gear. But went for it despite my uncurling fingers and just managed to dyno for the massive hold at the ledge.

with ciaran tracey
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
switch 26/May/12 2nd rpt
Luke Brooks 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Luke
sam820 08/Apr/12 2nd
with Murdoch
Ed Booth 08/Apr/12 Lead dog

1 fall from rest before crux. 1 hour to there. Totally tanked! Amzing climb!

Adam Booth 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Justin T 07/Apr/12 Lead dog

A vicious cycle of grease, fear overgrip and far too much gear. Massively dogged.

with Cherry
Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd dog
bigie bob 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd β
Graham Iles 27/Aug/11 2nd

Fell off crux

with Neil Stabbs
thomasadixon 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
al99 14/May/11 2nd dog
colesy 14/May/11 Lead O/S

First E5, Quality.

with al99
Luke Brooks 27/Apr/11 Lead dog

Took the lob from the crux on second attempt ground up, what a fall! Then too pumped for another full go so just got back on and climbed to the top.

with John Orr
Pippa 23/Apr/11 2nd
with Jon
mwatson ??/2011 -
Fran S8 28/Aug/10 2nd
Alex Mason 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Superb climbing, a perfect route. Hard to read at the top, but i didnt know weather to go up, right or left (assumed it would be obvious).

with Laura Perry, Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 18/Aug/10 Lead β

Belayed Alex on it then did it after him - ended up using a completely different sequence anyway (different morphology). Crux felt ok with a bit of technique, rest of it felt pumpy! Top groove felt awkward!

Hidden 01/May/10 2nd dog
jacobjacob 01/May/10 Lead O/S

dropped all my wires except one halfway up... nightmare!

theotherpetehill 01/May/10 2nd dog

Fell off the crux

eddy-on-the-rocks 01/May/10 Lead dnf

Lame effort!

with ollie, max
Dr Caterpillar 24/Apr/10 2nd dog


with Howard
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
Hidden 10/Oct/09 2nd dog
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead dnf
feilx 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Andy L
Mark Stevenson 10/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Geraldine Taylor
Hidden 17/Aug/07 Lead β
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
JulesV ??/2007 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden 14/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
switch ?/May/01 Lead O/S
sadams 26/Aug/00 2nd
with Tom Briggs
Tim M ??/2000 2nd
Roget 24/May/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
sadams 15/Aug/98 2nd
with Pete Bukowski
Greg Cunningham ?/Aug/98 Lead dog
sadams 04/May/98 2nd
with John Boyle
michael burrows 01/Apr/97 2nd
with andy boorman
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
Steve Crowe 04/Apr/96 Lead O/S

Superb endurance climbing

with KM
shoulders 17/Jun/94 2nd
jfletcher 02/May/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Steve Walker ??/1994 Lead
with paul
keefe 31/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 04/May/91 Lead
with Paul Dearden
Hidden 26/Aug/90 Lead
Eduardo Martinez ?/May/90 Lead dog

Failed to do cleanly. Very greasy conditions so was having to fight from the off.

Tony Kartawick ??/1990 2nd

Scariest second ever!!!!!!!! had balls as big as his forearms!!!!!!

with Steve Ansen
DDDD ??/1990 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Paul Greenland
Hidden 07/Jul/87 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 01/Jun/87 Lead O/S
with Ian & Andy (brothers)
Neil McA 03/Apr/86 2nd O/S

Chuffed to follow it clean while stripping the gear

with Andy Perkins
AlexRenshaw 26/Jun/85 2nd
with Sean Myles
Hidden 21/Mar/85 Lead
William Robertson ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Shaun Derry
Mike Owen 19/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 03/Apr/83 Lead
with Dave McCann
Andy Nicholson ?/May/81 Lead O/S
with Spike
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High 6b
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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