30m.

Rockfax Description
Sustained and well protected climbing and, like all good cruxes, it's at the top! Start at the same point as Raw Recruits. Climb to the right-hand side of a roof and break rightwards up the crack which is followed with increasing difficulty to a big flat hold. The next bit is best climbed as quickly as possible without thinking too much about your gear. Finish up a short groove above. © Rockfax

FA. B.Berzins 22/Aug/1981

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Trad climbs for sport climbers, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, A lifetimes worth of inspiration, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, The Best of Pembroke, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
The Jazz Butcher 19 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with John, don't put in too much gear or you will use it. All the gear is very good, so it's a case of put in a piece and climb until its below your feet and put in some more. The rest at the ledge is obligatory for us mere mortals!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with John, don't put in too much gear or you will use it. All the gear is very good, so it's a case of put in a piece and climb until its below your feet and put in some more. The rest at the ledge is obligatory for us mere mortals!
John Alcock 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb. A doddle to top rope (French 6c?), but very pumpy to place the gear on lead. I rationed myself to wires every 10/12 feet, when you could quite easily aid the whole route. There's barely a move more than 5c, but it goes on an on. When I on-sighted it years ago, I lay down when I got to the resting ledge and de-pumped for 20 minutes before topping out, ignoring the bored jeers of the onlookers.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb. A doddle to top rope (French 6c?), but very pumpy to place the gear on lead. I rationed myself to wires every 10/12 feet, when you could quite easily aid the whole route. There's barely a move more than 5c, but it goes on an on. When I on-sighted it years ago, I lay down when I got to the resting ledge and de-pumped for 20 minutes before topping out, ignoring the bored jeers of the onlookers.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Mike_Hayes 6 May Lead O/S Put this off for years. Not as bad as I had thought it would be! Great route.
with Cat
Put this off for years. Not as bad as I had thought it would be! Great route.
with Cat
M_Robinson 4 May Lead Fell off topping out when I let go with the wrong hand. Gutted
with Adam24B
Fell off topping out when I let go with the wrong hand. Gutted
with Adam24B
Richard Kendrick 19 Apr Lead O/S
with Alice, Frances Bensley
with Alice, Frances Bensley
James Oswald ?Apr Lead O/S Really fun. Pleased to do this at the end of the day - not enough time to spend ages on it! Good gear and just enough good holds to place it without having it above your head the whole time. Got quite pumped placing gear before the crux.
Really fun. Pleased to do this at the end of the day - not enough time to spend ages on it! Good gear and just enough good holds to place it without having it above your head the whole time. Got quite pumped placing gear before the crux.
neilmclean 29 Aug, 2018 2nd Rested below crux
with Johnny Dawes
Rested below crux
with Johnny Dawes
Eduardo Martinez 21 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Failed to do cleanly in 1990 in very greasy conditions. Rematch 28 years later went smoothly.
Failed to do cleanly in 1990 in very greasy conditions. Rematch 28 years later went smoothly.
Ram MkiV 9 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with von gnu
with von gnu
blaza1 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S First e5 o/s :)
with Edgar Kennard
First e5 o/s :)
with Edgar Kennard
slowmotion 27 May, 2018 2nd dog
Sophie Nunn 27 May, 2018 Lead dog Fell at the bulge, greasy and sweaty! Next time not so hot a day!
Fell at the bulge, greasy and sweaty! Next time not so hot a day!
ferdia 20 Apr, 2018 Lead Unchalked today. Misread crux twice, pulling a hold off on my second go up.
Unchalked today. Misread crux twice, pulling a hold off on my second go up.
Hidden 22 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Alice Thompson 19 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Anna
with Anna
rhoslynfrugtniet 13 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S SO GOOD!! First E5
with Si Rawlinson
SO GOOD!! First E5
with Si Rawlinson
Adam24B 7 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S First E5!!! Psyched to get this, I didn't think the crux was much harder than the rest of it, I just found it very sustained. I may have celebrated a little early getting to the ledge as the final groove was no pushover... A fantastic route
with Kris2fa
First E5!!! Psyched to get this, I didn't think the crux was much harder than the rest of it, I just found it very sustained. I may have celebrated a little early getting to the ledge as the final groove was no pushover... A fantastic route
with Kris2fa
Flavio 7 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt #3. Fell off last year, straightforward first go today!
with Jumar Jenny
#3. Fell off last year, straightforward first go today!
with Jumar Jenny
Kris2fa 7 Aug, 2017 2nd dog
with Adam24B
with Adam24B
JendeHoxar 7 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
robertmichaellovell 5 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf Route selection disaster, lack of route fitness evident!
with Sarah, Mark C
Route selection disaster, lack of route fitness evident!
with Sarah, Mark C
Neil Adams 5 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
andyinglis 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Thought the hardest moves were low down not at the top! Good way to finish a trip.
Thought the hardest moves were low down not at the top! Good way to finish a trip.
Hidden 4 Aug, 2017 TR O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 -
UKB Shark 13 Jul, 2017 2nd
with Nickc
with Nickc
Nickc 13 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Simon lee
with Simon lee
Hidden 4 Jun, 2017 2nd dnf
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 4 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf Too fat for this route.
with Windy
Too fat for this route.
with Windy
Hidden 1 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
D.Russell 1 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
MSchobitz 29 May, 2017 2nd dog 3 falls. Holds are all there, my stamina is not!
with amccann
3 falls. Holds are all there, my stamina is not!
with amccann
amccann 29 May, 2017 Lead O/S Pretty happy I forced myself to keep pushing through the pump, 18 pieces of gear probably didn't help.
Pretty happy I forced myself to keep pushing through the pump, 18 pieces of gear probably didn't help.
ian bryant 26 May, 2017 Lead O/S
mim tiller 19 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Mega. Did the crux wrong initially, got very pumped and down climbed to the flat holds and managed to get enough back to go again and get to the top!
with davkeo
Mega. Did the crux wrong initially, got very pumped and down climbed to the flat holds and managed to get enough back to go again and get to the top!
with davkeo
w.pettet-smith 19 Apr, 2017 Lead amazing route, wild crux! done on bens gear. tf as i wouldnt have had a chance otherwise!
with ben
amazing route, wild crux! done on bens gear. tf as i wouldnt have had a chance otherwise!
with ben
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 17 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Fell off the top - bugger! Excellent route which is a series of pumpy sections between semi-rests. When I eventually did the crux I found a foothold far out right which allowed me to layback up the 'arete' to get the good holds higher up.
with Roisin
Fell off the top - bugger! Excellent route which is a series of pumpy sections between semi-rests. When I eventually did the crux I found a foothold far out right which allowed me to layback up the 'arete' to get the good holds higher up.
with Roisin
treesrockice 17 Apr, 2017 2nd dog Wow! Will be back for the lead eventually.
Wow! Will be back for the lead eventually.
Katekeltie 15 Apr, 2017 2nd dog
Duncan Campbell 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Absolutely brilliant! Have wanted to do this for yonks and was psyched not to mess it up! managed to control the pump the whole way up and fudged my way through the crux. Didn't feel too much harder than the rest of the route.
Absolutely brilliant! Have wanted to do this for yonks and was psyched not to mess it up! managed to control the pump the whole way up and fudged my way through the crux. Didn't feel too much harder than the rest of the route.
Toby Dunn ??, 2017 Lead
Tubs 13 Nov, 2016 Lead dnf 'Lead did not get very far' would be more accurate. I knew I was unlikely to succeed but for some reason I couldn't keep away.
with AJM
'Lead did not get very far' would be more accurate. I knew I was unlikely to succeed but for some reason I couldn't keep away.
with AJM
JendeHoxar 23 Oct, 2016 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
Billg 18 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S At last. .What a superb route, never hard but god is it pumpy . A great climax to probably my best season ever.
with Will Calvert
At last. .What a superb route, never hard but god is it pumpy . A great climax to probably my best season ever.
with Will Calvert
dannyboy83 6 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Misha 7 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt Great lead by Eszter. Seconding didn't feel much easier than leading it two months ago - pumpy! Fortunately the gear came out easily enough.
with eszter
Great lead by Eszter. Seconding didn't feel much easier than leading it two months ago - pumpy! Fortunately the gear came out easily enough.
with eszter
Hidden 7 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
Nick Russell 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Awesome! Other than a bit of hesitation leaving the ledge near the top it went smoothly. Just get on with it!
Awesome! Other than a bit of hesitation leaving the ledge near the top it went smoothly. Just get on with it!
Luke Brooks 27 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
with KB83
with KB83
Hidden 27 Jun, 2016 2nd
Mark Stevenson 4 Jun, 2016 2nd dog
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 4 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Controlled pumpfest. The shakeouts aren't particularly restful but offer enough to get something back. Was a case of put the gear in and go for the next decent holds, rest, repeat. No particularly hard or technical moves but the crux section going up to the ledge is a bit harder (or just feels it as you're tired) and it's all very sustained at 5c with some easy 6a. Top route!
Controlled pumpfest. The shakeouts aren't particularly restful but offer enough to get something back. Was a case of put the gear in and go for the next decent holds, rest, repeat. No particularly hard or technical moves but the crux section going up to the ledge is a bit harder (or just feels it as you're tired) and it's all very sustained at 5c with some easy 6a. Top route!
Matt Cooke 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
with Sam Taylor
NDD 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Wendy ?May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sash.C
with Sash.C
markalmack 30 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Sonic boom in ya poon!!! Finally tied in without being gripped. Still got mega pupped at the top. Happy days.
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Sonic boom in ya poon!!! Finally tied in without being gripped. Still got mega pupped at the top. Happy days.
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Granitemuncher 23 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S One of the best I've tried in Pembroke. crux can be soften up if you use a micro hold on the right. not evident.
with Charly Catalan
One of the best I've tried in Pembroke. crux can be soften up if you use a micro hold on the right. not evident.
with Charly Catalan
khawk 29 Aug, 2015 Lead dog
will smith11 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Felt steady
with Twisty
Felt steady
with Twisty
Ed morris 7 Aug, 2015 Lead G/U Fell off last year, steady today.
Fell off last year, steady today.
Hidden 21 Jul, 2015 Lead
ian d f 4 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Great lead from Michael
Great lead from Michael
pearson9596 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
Ed Booth 3 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt Fell off the top of this a couple of years back pumped out my box, felt steady today with more sport fitness behind me.
Fell off the top of this a couple of years back pumped out my box, felt steady today with more sport fitness behind me.
Adam Booth 3 Jun, 2015 2nd dog Goosed!
Goosed!
hamer89 29 May, 2015 Lead O/S Mega classic! sterling line
Mega classic! sterling line
dan gibson 24 May, 2015 Lead RP Failed on this a few years ago. Felt straightforward today.
with Eszter
Failed on this a few years ago. Felt straightforward today.
with Eszter
Hidden 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2015 2nd
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
HAJ Francis 5 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
oliverpcain ??, 2015 Lead O/S
with Harriet Ridley
with Harriet Ridley
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2015 -
nathanlee 16 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S So very hot...
with Jack Lawledge
So very hot...
with Jack Lawledge
irish paul 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Pippa 22 Aug, 2014 2nd rpt
with mike
with mike
Rachel Slater 19 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Amazing. Misread the crux the first time and almost fell off. Luckily got a good shake out before trying it again with better beta.
Amazing. Misread the crux the first time and almost fell off. Luckily got a good shake out before trying it again with better beta.
tim newton 19 Aug, 2014 Lead β Rachel lead it first and then abbed to strip it. No specific beta though.
Rachel lead it first and then abbed to strip it. No specific beta though.
JM 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with stevoland, Dave Pinnington
with stevoland, Dave Pinnington
Patrick Hill 11 Jun, 2014 TR O/S
with Dan Geh
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 11 Jun, 2014 TR dog
pipof747 ?Jun, 2014 Lead RP
brices 16 May, 2014 Lead O/S pumpy to place gear, steady till you hit the crux then climb quickly and its over. save having a moment and not wanting to leave the little cave near the top :)
pumpy to place gear, steady till you hit the crux then climb quickly and its over. save having a moment and not wanting to leave the little cave near the top :)
Hidden 21 Apr, 2014 Lead β
Rich Kirby 17 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Great moves on crux.
Great moves on crux.
Adam Lincoln 17 Apr, 2014 Lead β
with Rick Kirby
with Rick Kirby
Hidden 14 Apr, 2014 Lead
Tom Livingstone 18 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Sweeeeet! Pretty pumped from the start but managed to hold it together. Chuffed.
Sweeeeet! Pretty pumped from the start but managed to hold it together. Chuffed.
piken 2 Jun, 2013 Lead RP Fell off top move - pulled ropes and did it in one
Fell off top move - pulled ropes and did it in one
steve_yo 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with sam ring
with sam ring
soph 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Alex Hughes
with Alex Hughes
Fran S8 6 May, 2013 Lead First E5 lead!
First E5 lead!
morganator 4 May, 2013 Lead Awesome pitch. Chuffed to get it clean
with Stan Halstead
Awesome pitch. Chuffed to get it clean
with Stan Halstead
Hidden 20 Apr, 2013 2nd
Hidden 20 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 31 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
with Emma Twyford
with Emma Twyford
willoates 29 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S Psyched to get this, rested up most of it, got pumped at the top though
with barni
Psyched to get this, rested up most of it, got pumped at the top though
with barni
barni 29 Mar, 2013 Lead
with Oates
with Oates
barni 29 Mar, 2013 Lead
with Oates
with Oates
Hidden 31 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Aug, 2012 Lead
JBO 8 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Stunning route, suits my strengths perfectly but I'm still really pleased to have the onsight. My second E5, nearly dropped the move up to the ledge but dug deep!
Stunning route, suits my strengths perfectly but I'm still really pleased to have the onsight. My second E5, nearly dropped the move up to the ledge but dug deep!
Wil Treasure ?Aug, 2012 2nd
Hidden 14 Jul, 2012 Lead dnf
quiffhanger 14 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Brilliant. Pretty pumped by the time I hit the crux sequence. Good gear so had the confidence to climb it quickly and dynamically despite the run-out.
Brilliant. Pretty pumped by the time I hit the crux sequence. Good gear so had the confidence to climb it quickly and dynamically despite the run-out.
theotherpetehill 14 Jul, 2012 2nd dog Fell just below ledge
with Ross McKerchar
Fell just below ledge
with Ross McKerchar
Ramon Marin 4 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Great onsight. Almost blew it by placing too much gear. But went for it despite my uncurling fingers and just managed to dyno for the massive hold at the ledge.
with ciaran tracey
Great onsight. Almost blew it by placing too much gear. But went for it despite my uncurling fingers and just managed to dyno for the massive hold at the ledge.
with ciaran tracey
Hidden 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Si Witcher 26 May, 2012 2nd rpt
Luke Brooks 15 Apr, 2012 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 15 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
sam820 8 Apr, 2012 2nd
with Murdoch
with Murdoch
Ed Booth 8 Apr, 2012 Lead dog 1 fall from rest before crux. 1 hour to there. Totally tanked! Amzing climb!
1 fall from rest before crux. 1 hour to there. Totally tanked! Amzing climb!
Adam Booth 8 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
Justin T 7 Apr, 2012 Lead dog A vicious cycle of grease, fear overgrip and far too much gear. Massively dogged.
A vicious cycle of grease, fear overgrip and far too much gear. Massively dogged.
Hidden 7 Apr, 2012 2nd dog
bigie bob 7 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Apr, 2012 2nd β
Graham Iles 27 Aug, 2011 2nd Fell off crux
with Neil Stabbs
Fell off crux
with Neil Stabbs
thomasadixon 8 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with mwatson
with mwatson
al99 14 May, 2011 2nd dog
with colesy
with colesy
colesy 14 May, 2011 Lead O/S First E5, Quality.
with al99
First E5, Quality.
with al99
Luke Brooks 27 Apr, 2011 Lead dog Took the lob from the crux on second attempt ground up, what a fall! Then too pumped for another full go so just got back on and climbed to the top.
with John Orr
Took the lob from the crux on second attempt ground up, what a fall! Then too pumped for another full go so just got back on and climbed to the top.
with John Orr
Pippa 23 Apr, 2011 2nd
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Fran S8 28 Aug, 2010 2nd
Alex Mason 18 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Superb climbing, a perfect route. Hard to read at the top, but i didnt know weather to go up, right or left (assumed it would be obvious).
with Laura Perry, Mike Goldthorp
Superb climbing, a perfect route. Hard to read at the top, but i didnt know weather to go up, right or left (assumed it would be obvious).
with Laura Perry, Mike Goldthorp
Mike Goldthorp 18 Aug, 2010 Lead β Belayed Alex on it then did it after him - ended up using a completely different sequence anyway (different morphology). Crux felt ok with a bit of technique, rest of it felt pumpy! Top groove felt awkward!
Belayed Alex on it then did it after him - ended up using a completely different sequence anyway (different morphology). Crux felt ok with a bit of technique, rest of it felt pumpy! Top groove felt awkward!
Hidden 1 May, 2010 2nd dog
jacobjacob 1 May, 2010 Lead O/S dropped all my wires except one halfway up... nightmare!
dropped all my wires except one halfway up... nightmare!
theotherpetehill 1 May, 2010 2nd dog Fell off the crux
Fell off the crux
eddy-on-the-rocks 1 May, 2010 Lead dnf Lame effort!
with olliebenzie, max
Lame effort!
with olliebenzie, max
Dr Caterpillar 24 Apr, 2010 2nd dog desperate
with Howard
desperate
with Howard
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
debsb ??, 2010 Lead
with Louisa
with Louisa
Hidden 10 Oct, 2009 2nd dog
Hidden 22 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf
Hidden 22 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf
feilx 28 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
Mark Stevenson 10 Jun, 2008 2nd dog
with Geraldine Taylor
with Geraldine Taylor
Hidden 17 Aug, 2007 Lead β
Jason livesey ?Aug, 2007 Lead rpt
with dave
with dave
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
JulesV ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 27 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 -
Hidden 14 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Boy ??, 2006 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Si Witcher ?May, 2001 Lead O/S
sadams 26 Aug, 2000 2nd
with Tom Briggs
with Tom Briggs
Tim M ??, 2000 2nd
Roget 24 May, 1999 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
The Jazz Butcher ??, 1999 Lead O/S
sadams 15 Aug, 1998 2nd
with Pete Bukowski
with Pete Bukowski
Greg Cunningham ?Aug, 1998 Lead dog
sadams 4 May, 1998 2nd
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
michael burrows 1 Apr, 1997 2nd
with andy boorman
with andy boorman
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
with Al Willoner
Steve Crowe 4 Apr, 1996 Lead O/S Superb endurance climbing
with karin
Superb endurance climbing
with karin
shoulders 17 Jun, 1994 2nd
with sharpie
with sharpie
jfletcher 2 May, 1994 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead O/S
Steve Walker ??, 1994 Lead
with paul
with paul
keefe 31 Jul, 1993 AltLd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 4 May, 1991 Lead
with Paul Dearden
with Paul Dearden
Hidden 26 Aug, 1990 Lead
Tony Kartawick ??, 1990 2nd Scariest second ever!!!!!!!! had balls as big as his forearms!!!!!!
with Steve Ansen
Scariest second ever!!!!!!!! had balls as big as his forearms!!!!!!
with Steve Ansen
DDDD ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 1987 Lead
UKB Shark 1 Jun, 1987 Lead O/S
with Ian & Andy (brothers)
with Ian & Andy (brothers)
Neil McA 3 Apr, 1986 2nd O/S Chuffed to follow it clean while stripping the gear
with Andy Perkins
Chuffed to follow it clean while stripping the gear
with Andy Perkins
AlexRenshaw 26 Jun, 1985 2nd
with Sean Myles
with Sean Myles
Hidden 21 Mar, 1985 Lead
William Robertson ??, 1985 Lead O/S
with Shaun Derry
with Shaun Derry
Mike Owen 19 Apr, 1984 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 3 Apr, 1983 Lead
with Dave McCann
with Dave McCann
Andy Nicholson ?May, 1981 Lead O/S
with Spike
with Spike
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 40
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set