UKC

Rockfax Description
The climbing starts at a small rib just right of the tree, and has the name CILBER written on the rock in red.
1) 5a, 28m. Climb a rib, trending slightly rightwards to the first bolt, then up the buttress, passing a small roof to a good stance.
2) 5c, 15m. Continue up the slanting crack splitting the wall (4 bolts) then head leftwards past the Arete to a stance.
3) 4a, 25m. Straight up slabby rock, passing ledges to a bay.
4) 3, 25m. A scrappy pitch. Climb to a ledge at 5m, then trend left (red arrows) to a stance below a groove.
5) 4c, 40m. Climb up the steep corner/groove (bolts) and then continue more easily to a finish up the right Arete leading to a big flat ledge.
This is the end of the bolted climbing section.
6) Walk along the ridge to a steep wall with a tree.
7) Pass the steep wall section by scrambling down to the right and then back up to the ridge (this steep section can be taken direct at 5a ).
8) The ridge now becomes steeper and narrower.
9) Scramble up the crest to the summit.
10) More scrambling along the ridge leads to TV masts and the start of an easy path that leads back to the start of the route. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Memorable Climbs , Costa Blanca 25 by 2025 , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , Costa blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stanley 26 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route, really enjoyed it. Took a full trad rack but wasn't really needed - some slings to back up a few UV degraded threads and one number three cam a couple of moves up the top crack pitch as the bolt feels a long way up (turned out to be relatively easy moves to clip it, but didn't look that way at the time). The ridge is mostly easy scrambling with a few very exposed sections that some might wish to protect. Great views and enjoyable climbing.
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route, really enjoyed it. Took a full trad rack but wasn't really needed - some slings to back up a few UV degraded threads and one number three cam a couple of moves up the top crack pitch as the bolt feels a long way up (turned out to be relatively easy moves to clip it, but didn't look that way at the time). The ridge is mostly easy scrambling with a few very exposed sections that some might wish to protect. Great views and enjoyable climbing.
LiviaJ 3 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, really enjoyed this! Brought trad gear, didn’t use any in the end. The ridge is exposed but not hard to climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, really enjoyed this! Brought trad gear, didn’t use any in the end. The ridge is exposed but not hard to climb.

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Chulla

Grade: 5c ***
(Moraira)

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