Rockfax Description
The first half of this route gives some of the best steep crack climbing around. Higher up the crack is much wider and easier to climb. Climb the twin thin cracks in the lower wall, with increasing difficulty and some haste - don't place too much gear - until a last difficult pull up and left gains a rest. Climb the wide crack above moving left at the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Whillance 04/May/1979

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E4 ticklist, 20 For 2017, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 20 Routes For 2017.

luke glaister 17/Sep TR β
Hidden 22/Aug 2nd
Llinos C 17/Aug Lead β
with brices
Hidden ?/Aug -
Pippa 23/Jul 2nd rpt
mountain_jay 23/Jul Lead β

Yay! First proper E4 in the UK. Seconded it a couple of years ago with Pip. Knew where the crux was and that it eased above and that I had to be decisive and efficient and just go for it. Well chuffed and bloody brilliant climb.

Dave Lyon 14/Jul -
with Mills
Misha 29/May Lead dog

Nails! Being a bit tired and it being fairly greasy didn't help but still not sure I'd have onsighted this in better conditions as the crux isn't straigtforward. Steady but tiring on generally good holds and great gear up to the crux section. Teetered up to what I thought would be the crux jug but the holds were distinctly disappointing and pretty gooping, so I peeled off and took a decent whipper. Next go placed a wire but pumped out. Turns out that was just the beginning of the crux! Took me a few goes to figure out what to do. Pleasant E1/2 ramble above.

with Phil
afrosam 29/May Lead dog

Mmm greasy cracks! Mega pump, took a ride off the crux, pulled the ropes but didn't wait long enough to de-pump and had to have a quick rest before committing to the crux and finishing it off. Beautiful route, will be back for a rematch in better connies.

with Pippa
philhilo 29/May 2nd dog

Well that was hard....harder.....even harder....freakin hell! Oh and sopping, which didn't help on the 'this is the crux surely?' not crux move. Much dangling but did all the moves, eventually. Epic job by Misha to get up it.

with misha
Kyuzo 14/May -
w.pettet-smith 20/Apr Lead

fantastic route. not fit enough to path it so had a right puff and blow. memorable!

with ben
benkelsey 19/Apr Lead dnf

To 'warm up'. 40 minute effort to just get to the crux - 12 pieces of gear - then pumped out. One to come back for with a better attitude. Impeccable line and quality of climbing though.

with Jake Young, Shaun Humphreys
Timothy Miller 19/Apr Lead O/S

Awesome bottom half. Just need to climb quickly

Jake Young 19/Apr Lead dnf

On Ben's gear really enjoyed playing on this, got pumped out and couldn't do the crux at the top of the cracks. not sure I would have had the stamina to place all the gear ben put in.

with Ben
mrteale 16/Apr Lead dog

Got shut down at the crux on the onsight and then again the following day! Greasy holds only excuses so much, stunning line. Can't wait to finish this one off.

andyinglis 10/Oct/16 Lead G/U

In the baking sun.... 2nd go.

with Murdoch Jamieson
Billg 18/Sep/16 Lead
with Will Calvert
dannyboy83 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Lena
Dale Comley 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 04/Sep/16 2nd dog
Mike W 27/Aug/16 TR O/S
with chris
Hidden 31/Jul/16 Lead dog
JenShelley 31/Jul/16 2nd dog
with Ed
john lynch 27/Jun/16 Lead G/U

what a belter! brilliant route. Fell off the o/s attempt at the crux, lowered off then got it.

with Lewis Andrew
j_aaake 27/Jun/16 Lead dog

Incredible steep twin cracks! Gutted not to lead it clean, lobbed off the crux and sent ellie for a ride :)

Jack93 25/Jun/16 2nd dog

The wire JAke fell on was soildly wedged in there! Took ages to get out. Absolutely amazing route :)

FlavioL1989 11/Jun/16 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Placed a ton of gear- I heard a story that one of Andy's mates fell off this route and decked, hitting his head on the rocks below. Maybe he read the description which said not to get too pumped. Every time I got a bit run out I had this vision of andy's mate, and stuffed another bomber wire in. Good job getting them all out again Flavio! Superb route, fingery fingerlockers.

with Flavio
Duncan Campbell 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Well good. Expected this to be an all-out battle but didn't find it that bad. I climbed quickly and efficiently where usually I would have faffed around and down-climbed at least once. Nearly came a cropper when I thought I had done the crux only to find I was just starting it. A deserved classic.

Matt Cooke 30/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
JulesV 28/May/16 Lead rpt
with Shauna
Pippa 08/May/16 Lead rpt

So pleased to flash this. Totally boxed at the crux, no idea how I pulled through with my arms on fire. Could have been a big fall. Absolutely fantastic climb

Shauna ?/May/16 2nd RP
with Jules
Wendy ?/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sash.C
markalmack 30/Apr/16 2nd rpt

felt easy today on second. Top connies

WB 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S

I must have been in the zone as this felt easy. Wish I could always climb like that

gazhbo 25/Mar/16 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 07/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with dave pickford
benka 27/Sep/15 Lead rpt

second try after falling off 18 months ago

JBO 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Tough! Nasty film of grease to it as well. Was too pumped to find a good way to do the crux so resorted to heaving on a shallow two finger lock.

Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd dog
ian d f 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Caught off-guard by the crux and was more run-out than I would have liked. Fun route - first Pembroke E4!

pearson9596 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 03/Jun/15 2nd O/S
anguskille 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S

got so pumped leaving the steeper section I could hardly place any gear. brilliant climb!

Adam Booth 03/Jun/15 2nd O/S
brices 16/May/15 Lead rpt
with Edd, Llinos
mike lawrence? 16/Apr/15 -

had 27 rests, 2 sections way too hard, brilliant route though

with FatRob
Rachel Slater 04/Apr/15 2nd rpt
tim newton 04/Apr/15 Lead dog

Too rubbish at jamming and not fit enough. Made it to the last hard sequence before the rest, pumped out of my mind and blew it. Great sustained climbing

NuclearNev ??/2015 -
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
Sarah Black 13/Sep/14 Lead rpt
irish paul 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Apharri 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
tash 30/Aug/14 2nd

Ruddy tough but stunning route on immaculate orange rock.

with ali k
Hidden 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Pippa 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with mike
Ramon Marin 07/Jul/14 Lead RP

Made a right meal of this. Got on it tired, got pumped, downclimbed. Tried again, rested on gear. Came down and then send it. Gutted I blown the onsight

with viki harvey
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead β
brices 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Found my flow on this and felt like i crused up it with load of first time gear placements

with Llinos
Justin T 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Rachel Slater 03/May/14 2nd O/S


pete johnson ?/May/14 -
with neil mawson, emma alsford
Adam Lincoln 21/Apr/14 Lead β
with Rick Kirby
quiffhanger 21/Apr/14 Lead RP

Hard & greasy! Fell off the crux first go. Pulled the ropes and just clung on for my second go.

Rich Kirby 21/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead β
Stefan_Morris 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Ed morris 05/Oct/13 Lead RP

Following two failed leads on previous days ending in falls. One top rope to clean the gear.

with stefan
pie_eater_pete 08/Sep/13 Lead dog
with bwestwood
bwestwood ?/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/13 2nd
Ally Smith 26/Aug/13 Lead β

Retro-flash. Fell off crux a few years ago, but couldn't remember any of it.

with Aly
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead dog
Alice Thompson 29/Jun/13 2nd


with Michael Porter
markalmack 05/May/13 Lead O/S

got so pumped, down-climbed from crux to the floor. 10 mins rest, then fired to the top. Good!

with gwen
soph 31/Mar/13 Lead rpt
colesy 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant Route, very pumpy. A good idea to place cams low down to prevent nuts ripping.

with Sasha Coombes
khawk 01/Sep/12 Lead dog
with DT
redjerry 24/Aug/12 Lead

2nd try

jacobjlloyd 14/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Fell off crux, ripped cam (thought it was bomber!), decked, broke pelvis, airlifted... Thanks everyone for being awesome! If anyone finds my partner's gear on the route, please get in touch. Might be a while before I can get out of bed long enough to have another go

Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
jacobjacob 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
sam820 08/Apr/12 2nd
with Murdoch
bigie bob 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd β
Hidden ??/2012 -
cem 30/Aug/11 2nd dog

Had to take a couple of rests at the crux while fiddling the gear out.

drcorbasisgod 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd
Mike_Hayes 27/Aug/11 Lead

Dropped wires on crux... Lowered picked up and sent.. Not the best style!

with Jon Leighton
thomasadixon 08/Aug/11 Lead

Was raining and just couldn't hold on...that's my excuse anyway.

with Mike
feilx 04/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Andy L
Glyn 30/May/11 Lead RP

Awesome crack climbing but hard! Powerful 6a move when pumped at about half hight. Tricky to read on the onsight

with Amy
Hidden 28/May/11 2nd
Ally Smith 28/Apr/11 Lead dog

Greased out of the crux, pulled back on and went to the top.

with GrantB
GrantB 28/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 02/Apr/11 Lead RP

Ground-up 2nd go, lacked intent on the crux just hangin around not really thinking about it, got pumped. Boshed it 2nd go, amazing quality of finger-crack climbing, really top end E4!

janegallwey ?/Apr/11 Lead dog
miastacey ?/Apr/11 2nd
with Bob Smith
Paul Boggis ??/2011 2nd
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead dog
with Lindy Smith
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead dog
Ricky Rocks 22/May/10 Lead β
eddy-on-the-rocks 03/May/10 Lead dog

Fell, like everyone else at the crux. Took some nice air.

with Aaron, max
barni 19/Apr/10 Lead dog
Luke Brooks 19/Apr/10 Lead β
Pown 09/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead dog
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 14/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
Alex Mason 03/Jun/09 Lead dog

fell off just at the change in angle after an optimistic slap, pulled ropes and did the same again, so rested on gear and dispatched the rest, excellent route with good jams all the way.

with Nick Rabb
Hidden 04/Apr/09 Lead dog
feilx 28/Mar/09 Lead RP
with Andy L
mynyddresident ??/2009 2nd
feilx 15/Jun/08 Lead dog

Got pumped and fell off at crux, should have tried harder!

with Phil Davis
Mark Stevenson 09/Jun/08 2nd β
with Geraldine Taylor
Mark Stevenson 27/May/08 Lead dnf
with not seconded
ksjs 07/May/08 Lead dog

simply stunning. very close to the onsight but that bit at the top of the crack came as a surprise. the upper wall is also great.

Brown 01/Jan/08 Lead dog
with Harry Westaway
Hidden 18/Aug/07 Lead β
Hidden 17/Aug/07 2nd β
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead RP
Boy ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden 29/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Aug/04 2nd β
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jun/04 Lead rpt
with Viv
JulesV ??/2004 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 28/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with KM
Billg ??/2000 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 2nd
Tim M ??/2000 Lead dog
steveb2006 02/May/99 2nd

Neville leads with 2 falls, manage to secodn it ok - just

with Neville Contractor
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Apr/99 2nd
Hidden ??/1999 -
innes ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Jon Bracey
sadams 22/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with Team Midlands
Steve Long ??/1997 Lead
The Jazz Butcher ?/Mar/96 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead dog
Greg Cunningham ??/1995 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead
shoulders 17/Apr/94 TR
with andy sharp, pete lewis, chrisevans
craig h ??/1994 Lead O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 2nd

Clean after falling on onsight lead

with Dave Henderson
whispering nic ?/Aug/93 2nd
with Graham Iles
Rich Kirby ?/Apr/93 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 10/Sep/92 2nd
with Rick Kerr
jfletcher 12/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/92 AltLd
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead
with Nick Dalzell
Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 31/May/89 Lead
with Tudor Griffiths
Hidden ?/May/89 Lead
Bruce Kerr 24/Mar/89 Lead
Stoney Boy 01/Apr/88 2nd
with Kel Toplis, Steve Wigmore
Robmwatt ??/1988 Lead
andy gittins ??/1987 -
AlexRenshaw 26/Jun/86 Lead
with Sean Myles
ukb & bmc shark 31/Mar/86 Lead dnf
with Sue Wilson
keefe 29/Dec/85 -
Hidden 21/Jul/85 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/85 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 12/Apr/85 Lead dog
with Triss Kenny
andybirtwistle 10/Apr/85 2nd O/S
with Andy Moss
William Robertson ??/1985 Lead O/S

Thin in places.

with Shaun Derry
ukb & bmc shark 19/Sep/84 2nd
steve.aisthorpe 19/Sep/84 Lead
with shark
Mark Kemball 25/Apr/83 2nd
with Dave Kenyon
Mike Owen 09/Apr/83 Lead O/S
with Phil Ralph
Steve Lewis 11/Sep/82 Lead O/S
with Lyndsey
jon 03/May/82 Lead

With Elaine I think?

with Elaine
Mark Kemball 12/Apr/82 Lead
with Dave Abbey
30 users have this on their wishlist
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 39
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set