45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Sustained and well protected where it matters and easily as good as Mysteries. Start at a small scoop left of Mysteries.
1) 20m. Climb the scoop then step left onto the wall and move up to a hole. Pull strenuously around the bulge and continue to Mysteries.
2) 25m. Climb up and right above the stance. Either traverse directly rightwards to a flake or step down and swing right on a good hold then move up to the flake. Move right again then climb up to a long ledge. Climb straight up the wall above moving left or right to finish. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 10/May/1980

Ticklists

UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, 101Pembroke Extremes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Owen Diba 1 Aug AltLd O/S Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Hidden 1 Aug AltLd O/S
Andrew1 29 Jun Lead O/S
with Hulda
with Hulda
Hulda 29 Jun 2nd
with Andrew1
with Andrew1
Cassidy 10 May AltLd O/S Wobbly start back to trad climbing. I’ve finally done a route in Pembroke!
with Rob Sutton
Wobbly start back to trad climbing. I’ve finally done a route in Pembroke!
with Rob Sutton
Mike_Hayes 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Mike Lea
with Mike Lea
Wil Treasure 14 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Led both pitches.
with Lorne
Led both pitches.
with Lorne
aiyer 6 Jul, 2018 Lead β Sub-optimal conditions and the start felt desperate - but please to have sent it in one big long pitch!
with wojt
Sub-optimal conditions and the start felt desperate - but please to have sent it in one big long pitch!
with wojt
aiyer 24 Jun, 2018 2nd Must lead soon.....lush moves!
with wojt
Must lead soon.....lush moves!
with wojt
JendeHoxar 5 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Jumar Jenny
with Jumar Jenny
Neil Adams 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Great route and much better than Mysteries. Led P2. 3 stars.
Great route and much better than Mysteries. Led P2. 3 stars.
Hidden 3 Aug, 2017 TR O/S
Mark Warnett ?Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Really great route miles better than mysteries, especially the run out traverse on P.2 (E2 / maybe soft E3 in its own right). Bottom pitch mild but felt bold as didn't trust gear at crucial point. Slightly pumpy.
with Andy O'Conner
Really great route miles better than mysteries, especially the run out traverse on P.2 (E2 / maybe soft E3 in its own right). Bottom pitch mild but felt bold as didn't trust gear at crucial point. Slightly pumpy.
with Andy O'Conner
Hidden 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Katekeltie 18 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S Amazing!
Amazing!
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Lead both pitches. Amazing.
Lead both pitches. Amazing.
Hidden ??, 2017 -
mattnuttall 30 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Lead in one pitch... Which is fine but needs good rope work and makes it quite a taxing lead. Superb route... Bottom half harder than top half.
Lead in one pitch... Which is fine but needs good rope work and makes it quite a taxing lead. Superb route... Bottom half harder than top half.
Andrew Wilson 30 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Duncan Campbell 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd rpt Led p2 this time. Belayed Rob on Ghost Train was going to second if he made it look hard and/or scary. He didn't so he abbed it and we scrambled out the back of the Ford. Ghost Train is on the E6 hitlist... gulp!
Led p2 this time. Belayed Rob on Ghost Train was going to second if he made it look hard and/or scary. He didn't so he abbed it and we scrambled out the back of the Ford. Ghost Train is on the E6 hitlist... gulp!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd Great route, far better than Mysteries in my opinion.
Great route, far better than Mysteries in my opinion.
JendeHoxar 14 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Ed morris 11 Jun, 2016 AltLd rpt Led pitch 1 this time.
Led pitch 1 this time.
Stefan_Morris 11 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P2
Led P2
Duncan Campbell 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P1. A bit pumpy but not too bad. Second pitch is a bit easier but has a great hero move where you swing your feet across a blank wall. Dunno why this gets less stars than Mysteries - its much better.
with Anna G
Led P1. A bit pumpy but not too bad. Second pitch is a bit easier but has a great hero move where you swing your feet across a blank wall. Dunno why this gets less stars than Mysteries - its much better.
with Anna G
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
WB 28 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
markalmack 28 May, 2016 AltLd O/S lead p1. good
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
lead p1. good
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
chris m fisher 28 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Two contrasting pitches, great route again
with Dan Parkes
Two contrasting pitches, great route again
with Dan Parkes
Russell Birkett 5 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2. 2 good pitches. Great exposure.
with Tim Whitaker
Led pitch 2. 2 good pitches. Great exposure.
with Tim Whitaker
billb ?Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S 1st pitch suspense and second pitch Hysteria. Brilliant!
with JulesV
1st pitch suspense and second pitch Hysteria. Brilliant!
with JulesV
benkelsey 14 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S Was too trashed from the castle to lead - right arm was just about useless. Beefy first pitch and ace second with some cool architecture towards the top. That sea comes in fast!
Was too trashed from the castle to lead - right arm was just about useless. Beefy first pitch and ace second with some cool architecture towards the top. That sea comes in fast!
shaunhumphreys 14 Aug, 2015 Lead G/U Such a good route P1 & 2, rested halfway on P1 as i didnt trust my gear but found another piece so lowered down to do ground up!
Such a good route P1 & 2, rested halfway on P1 as i didnt trust my gear but found another piece so lowered down to do ground up!
Ed Babs 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S P1. More stenuous placing the gear for the bulge than pulling through it!
with AlexD
P1. More stenuous placing the gear for the bulge than pulling through it!
with AlexD
AlexD 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Led p2, complete contrast to pumpy first pitch, nice exposed wall climbing, very steady - laced it up!
with Ed Babs
Led p2, complete contrast to pumpy first pitch, nice exposed wall climbing, very steady - laced it up!
with Ed Babs
JBO 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
climbomaniac 10 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P1. OMG. what a fight. A very wet start probably made me a little tense, because after faffing about in the steep section below the bulge for way tool long, my subconscious must have decided to start squeezing the living juice out of the holds. It wasnt long until I found myself in great desperation on the bulge, slapping ultrapumped for the saving hold to finally stand up on the feet. But what a fun climb! Also the traverse of P2 feels absolutely awesome, exposed on a magnificent wall!
Lead P1. OMG. what a fight. A very wet start probably made me a little tense, because after faffing about in the steep section below the bulge for way tool long, my subconscious must have decided to start squeezing the living juice out of the holds. It wasnt long until I found myself in great desperation on the bulge, slapping ultrapumped for the saving hold to finally stand up on the feet. But what a fun climb! Also the traverse of P2 feels absolutely awesome, exposed on a magnificent wall!
quiffhanger 10 May, 2015 AltLd Way better than mysteries. Led P2. Glad he volunteered to do the first pitch - green, wet & greasy or in Nicholas' words: "this is exactly what I imagined climbing to be like in Britain".
Way better than mysteries. Led P2. Glad he volunteered to do the first pitch - green, wet & greasy or in Nicholas' words: "this is exactly what I imagined climbing to be like in Britain".
Hidden 19 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
squicky 22 Jun, 2014 2nd dog P2 after P1 of Mysteries. Yeah, had a bit of an epic on this.... Fell at the start of the traverse after expending all my energy getting gear out and was left hanging somewhere over Muy Caliente. Prussiced /hauled up to next piece of gear and climbed clean from there. Wouldn't advise prussicing as a leasure activity.
with Exodus
P2 after P1 of Mysteries. Yeah, had a bit of an epic on this.... Fell at the start of the traverse after expending all my energy getting gear out and was left hanging somewhere over Muy Caliente. Prussiced /hauled up to next piece of gear and climbed clean from there. Wouldn't advise prussicing as a leasure activity.
with Exodus
Hidden 16 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Justin T 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S P2
P2
Rachel Slater 4 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P1.
Lead P1.
Adam Booth 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S I did first pitch. Brilliant!
I did first pitch. Brilliant!
Ed Booth 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S led top pitch.
led top pitch.
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
pipof747 29 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
willoates 1 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S great climbing, i lead the 2nd pitch.
with Dave Rudkin
great climbing, i lead the 2nd pitch.
with Dave Rudkin
Hidden 1 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
soph 5 May, 2013 AltLd
with Alex Hughes
with Alex Hughes
Alex Mason 4 May, 2013 Lead rpt Led P2.
with Jemma Powell
Led P2.
with Jemma Powell
LRob ?Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Ed morris 12 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S led pitch 2. Missed the gear slot on the traverse leaving an unnesesary 30 foot runout. So chuffed to get up this, the bottom pitch is definately the meatier one.
with Adam Bevan
led pitch 2. Missed the gear slot on the traverse leaving an unnesesary 30 foot runout. So chuffed to get up this, the bottom pitch is definately the meatier one.
with Adam Bevan
Ledgelaw 3 Jun, 2012 -
Hidden 7 May, 2012 2nd O/S
jacobjacob 7 May, 2012 Lead O/S Pitch 2. Good fun, some hollow sounding jugs towards the top, used some crimps instead.
Pitch 2. Good fun, some hollow sounding jugs towards the top, used some crimps instead.
dan gibson 5 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with richard lade
with richard lade
Hidden 8 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
beci tointen ?Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with my uncle carl
with my uncle carl
valecoastclimber 17 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
mwatson ??, 2011 - just escaped the tide, fastest E4 pitch i've ever led
just escaped the tide, fastest E4 pitch i've ever led
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Rob Pitt 15 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with steveE9
with steveE9
Hidden 14 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Tom Briggs 13 Jun, 2009 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
with Ed Brown
Hidden 2 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
morganator 12 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Rich Cross and Es Tressider
with Rich Cross and Es Tressider
Hidden 31 May, 2008 2nd
Alex Mason 6 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S Lead second pitch. Amazing, atmospheric and varied. first pitch is goey, second has harder moves. well protected throughout although suspect rock on the top 1/4.
with Alan Steele
Lead second pitch. Amazing, atmospheric and varied. first pitch is goey, second has harder moves. well protected throughout although suspect rock on the top 1/4.
with Alan Steele
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ??, 2008 Lead
with Jon Morgan, Es Tressider
with Jon Morgan, Es Tressider
feilx 28 Apr, 2007 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 28 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with feilx
with feilx
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
AlexRenshaw 27 Aug, 2006 Lead
Steve Crowe 26 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S Good route but felt smeggy.
with karin
Good route but felt smeggy.
with karin
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
JulesV ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with John Helme
with John Helme
Tom Briggs 10 Sep, 2005 2nd rpt
with Nic Sellers
with Nic Sellers
Tom Briggs 21 May, 2005 Lead O/S
with Tuffty Nick
with Tuffty Nick
Hidden 7 May, 2005 Lead O/S
Gus 30 May, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2004 Lead O/S
pauldrew 14 Jun, 2003 2nd
pete johnson 14 Jun, 2003 Lead
Hidden 27 May, 2003 Lead O/S
Billg 15 Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
with Harry
with Harry
pete johnson ?May, 2000 AltLd
with Hughie
with Hughie
Tim M ??, 2000 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 May, 1998 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 May, 1998 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 May, 1998 Lead O/S
Pete Wimbush ?Aug, 1997 AltLd O/S I led the 2nd (5c) pitch
with Dave Langrish
I led the 2nd (5c) pitch
with Dave Langrish
duncan 27 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham ?Jul, 1997 AltLd I lead first pitch - great route.
with guy exley
I lead first pitch - great route.
with guy exley
steveb2006 19 Apr, 1997 Lead
with Rob Gambles
with Rob Gambles
sadams 29 Mar, 1997 AltLd
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Steve Long ??, 1995 Lead Climbed during filming weekend for Eric Jones and Anita Long at Huntsmans
Climbed during filming weekend for Eric Jones and Anita Long at Huntsmans
Hidden ?Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
Neil McA 2 May, 1992 AltLd O/S led pitch 2
with Clive Davis
led pitch 2
with Clive Davis
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez 29 May, 1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Aug, 1987 AltLd
andy gittins ??, 1987 -
UKB Shark ?Jul, 1986 AltLd dog
with Steve Long
with Steve Long
Hidden 12 Nov, 1983 Lead
Steve Lewis 10 May, 1980 2nd
with Charlie, Pat
with Charlie, Pat
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set