UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes. 

Seasonal Restriction  from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.

 

 

 

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route with two testing pitches and a magnificent 'pat-on-the-back' finishing arete.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb the corner, which is hard at first but eases above, to a small roof. Swing right to a wide crack which leads to the ledge.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb the left-hand of two blank corners to another ledge (small microwires useful). Swing like an ape up the steep crack in the left-hand side of the arete to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Parsons 05/Dec/1981.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si Witcher 1 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The ledge at the top of the 'blank corner' of P2 is decaying and has been known to break off in large chunks...take care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The ledge at the top of the 'blank corner' of P2 is decaying and has been known to break off in large chunks...take care.
Alun 10 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A great first pitch which takes a bit of effort to protect but is safe. Second pitch is in a good position but eases off high up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great first pitch which takes a bit of effort to protect but is safe. Second pitch is in a good position but eases off high up.
Frank the Husky 19 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: With 'cunning' the initial corner isn't all that blank, and a hybrid collection of gear protects. The initial corner on p2 can (as an alternative) be climbed up the left arete.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: With 'cunning' the initial corner isn't all that blank, and a hybrid collection of gear protects. The initial corner on p2 can (as an alternative) be climbed up the left arete.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Trevallen Cliff

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 12
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Scoop

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Penally West)

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