Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes.
Seasonal Restriction from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.
Rockfax Description
A great route with two testing pitches and a magnificent 'pat-on-the-back' finishing arete.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb the corner, which is hard at first but eases above, to a small roof. Swing right to a wide crack which leads to the ledge.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb the left-hand of two blank corners to another ledge (small microwires useful). Swing like an ape up the steep crack in the left-hand side of the arete to the top. © Rockfax
FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Parsons 05/Dec/1981.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Si Witcher | 1 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: The ledge at the top of the 'blank corner' of P2 is decaying and has been known to break off in large chunks...take care. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The ledge at the top of the 'blank corner' of P2 is decaying and has been known to break off in large chunks...take care. |
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Alun | 10 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: A great first pitch which takes a bit of effort to protect but is safe. Second pitch is in a good position but eases off high up. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A great first pitch which takes a bit of effort to protect but is safe. Second pitch is in a good position but eases off high up. |
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Frank the Husky | 19 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: With 'cunning' the initial corner isn't all that blank, and a hybrid collection of gear protects. The initial corner on p2 can (as an alternative) be climbed up the left arete. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: With 'cunning' the initial corner isn't all that blank, and a hybrid collection of gear protects. The initial corner on p2 can (as an alternative) be climbed up the left arete. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Penally West)