2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Great climbing up and left of the huge fang. Start at the top of the gully.
1) 5a, 25m. Climb a crack to a pinnacle. Move left and climb a corner onto the arete. Move back right above the steepening and climb the corner to a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 32m. Climb the wall on the left, then make hard moves round the arete onto the wall. Step left again then up and back right to reach the upper slab. Thin balancy climbing leads up this with small/micro-wires for protection. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Ultimate HVS ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs.

cem 04/Feb 2nd rpt
Kirill 04/Feb Lead
JenShelley 01/Jan AltLd
with Mike H
Mike Hewitt 01/Jan AltLd O/S

Lead P1, fun route with some varied climbing

BenRyle 30/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Lovely couple of pitches.

with Ian Grobowski
Pero 21/Oct/16 AltLd

Led P1

Hidden 15/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
scottcoates 15/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Cat Lawrence 15/Oct/16 2nd

Retreated after first pitch as the sun was setting

with Nigel
shaunhumphreys 09/Oct/16 AltLd O/S


pete1993 09/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch, bloody hell, committing move round the arete with poor gear to a sustained slab with questionable gear, felt intense, ace climbing though

with Shaun
Hidden 08/Oct/16 2nd dog
Hidden 08/Oct/16 2nd
harry_lewis 08/Oct/16 Lead
JonesE 02/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

First pitch. Nice and sustained first pitch with some perfect hand jams. Bit spicy for the moves off the belay for kez, nice technical climbing above. Definitely high in the grade.

with Kez
kez1 02/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Slightly bold leaving the belay stance, struggling with the decision of if I fall, do I factor 2 onto the belay, or crash into my belayer, then the corner. Probably best to just not fall

with JonesE
Hidden 19/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/16 2nd
J_Spooner 14/Sep/16 AltLd
with Sarah Short, Francis Charlesworth
Hidden 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Mark Fairhurst 13/Sep/16 -
FlavioL1989 10/Sep/16 2nd O/S
w-watson 10/Sep/16 Lead
andycash 31/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ed, Ali Logan
Ed Hastings 31/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Andy Cash, Ali Logan
Fat Andy Heff 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


Andypeak 23/Aug/16 AltLd dnf

Bailed form the first stance

Hidden 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
No? Yes! 23/Aug/16 AltLd

Good to lead top pitch this time.Agree with 12/7/15 - belaying below corner ledge best all round.

Gympaul 14/Aug/16 Lead
with chris
Hidden 29/Jul/16 2nd
Butel 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Such a nice route in the sun. I reckon E1 given the upper slabs thin gear.

with jezb1
KeenClimber 03/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Lead p2

with Ron
GwilymR 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Jammy
williap 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Led P2 (crux?)

Hidden 17/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
Martin Davies 17/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

P1 - great route!

with Matt Harris
bryce.dorin 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Jocelyn
Michael Morrell 08/Jun/16 AltLd dog

Fell of 2nd pitch with a good runner on the last move of the traverse round the corner. Going to come back to try it again!

Hidden 08/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
davebrox 07/Jun/16 AltLd

with Foxy

georgenvk 30/May/16 Lead O/S
daveclarke5 28/May/16 2nd
with Stephen
tonevert 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Ian Sewel
ianstevens 27/May/16 AltLd O/S

Tried Extraction, fell off and did this instead. Joe P2.

with Joe Dean, Emily Groves
joedean 27/May/16 AltLd
emgroves 27/May/16 2nd
jalqazzaz 23/May/16 AltLd RP

A revisit to lead the 2nd pitch this time. Fantastic. Lots of small wires and maybe a couple imps helpful

Harry Ellis 23/May/16 AltLd
with Jon Al-Qazzaz, Rich Hazelby
Dave Almond 18/May/16 AltLd rpt
frost 18/May/16 AltLd
Hidden 15/May/16 AltLd
khawk 15/May/16 AltLd
Joel Miller 15/May/16 AltLd O/S
Benjaminblanc 08/May/16 2nd

Nice! Proper HVS!

with Simon Lake
GPN 03/May/16 2nd
with Trad Exchange
Hidden ?/May/16 -
PaulTclimbing ?/May/16 AltLd
with Adrian
JoeFoster59 23/Apr/16 AltLd dnf

What a route. I lead the first pitch proper burly climbing really cool. Had minor fall when I went for a tender jam not brutal jam but quickly learnt. The belay ledge was very interesting and a good test of rope management definitely one of the most uncomfortable places I've been. Freddie lead the second pitch a stunning lead by him. I set off on the second pitch after the first few moves I was working my way round the corner then all of a sudden I was not. I was hanging underneath the overhang unable to claw or prussick my way back on route. Disappointed to be lowered back to the floor but still very pleased with my lead of the first pitch and its something to come back to. Still mystified with how I fell off. Brilliant route Joe Brown is the man

with Freddie
Dawn_K_B 23/Apr/16 AltLd rpt

Led P2. Happy to have come back for this after having bailed off after P1 before! P2 felt airy and hard for the grade - factor 2 potential off the belay then technical moves on spaced gear on the slab. Excellent climbing throughout but a relief to get to the top!

with Ali Taylor
TomatoPro 23/Apr/16 AltLd β

A serious feeling HVS. High exposure and fairly delicate moves on the second pitch. Got fooled into thinking I could see the top nearby from the bottom of second pitch, and it all looked easy and with good gear; so placed a cam at the bottom and set off for the 'top'. Ended up about 8m above gear on the slab face, and placed a dreadful micro nut 6m from the top. Joe fell off seconding the second pitch and went under the overhang, eventually having to be lowered down to the ground, upon discovering that vines aren't as strong as Tarzan made us all believe.

Hidden 23/Apr/16 2nd rpt
Markheighton 19/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Stanners 18/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

led P2. Very physical p1. Scary p2 from the very start. Micro wires/small wires essential! Enjoyed the fact you have to stay relaxed and calm as it gets bolder and bolder on the upper wall. Convenient lower off! Great route! Again more like E1 5a? All routes today surprisingly bold for the grades. Looking forward to returning to Tremadog, what a venue!

with Giles
Hidden 16/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
JackM92 21/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1. P2 was excellent.

brockers 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this route. Thought the bottom pitch a straightforward HVS 5a, however, P2 was a cracker. Heart in mouth moment from the belay until the nice n2 wire just before stepping round the corner. Then a case of keeping your head as you climb the slab. Small wire slots around just when you need them.

Hidden 19/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
shed_hed 19/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Great climbing, bit polished on P1 though.

jamesb101 19/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Robs_Uren 19/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
James Beaumont 17/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2, kinda overrated in my humble opinion

with Anna
Dan Geh 13/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Spicy moves off the belay!

with Joe Seymour
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
camelsurfer ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Andy Clarke 03/Nov/15 Lead O/S

A real classic, that provides plenty of drama. Bold & committing at the start of P2, but reasonable protection on the fine finishing slab with modern small stuff. Led both pitches.

with Johnny
JWB 01/Nov/15 2nd O/S

Lovely climbing, looks hard but it is all there.

jon_gill1 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Led in one long pitch, A fantastic route that felt pretty stiff at the grade leaving the belay stance area.

Pete_Frost 12/Oct/15 AltLd rpt

Led P1 this time. No pushover at 5a and a good warm up for harder things.

with Phil Creed
Hidden 12/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
DaveFidler 11/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Rollo 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S

P1 for me

with Mike
steve-grigg 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
mike.moss 11/Oct/15 AltLd dog
franhammond92 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Matthew Ferrier 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Lead p2. Went all the way up to the roof on the good flakes before moving left onto the slab - apparently too high.

with Fran
Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
MSchobitz 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with USMC
Teappleby 10/Oct/15 Lead

All sorts of calamities, including lowering a fresher off with most of my gear, so not having anything worth mentioning for the second pitch gear wise, but rope drag from hell due to not having any long draws for the one good bit of gear. This made the top moves really quite fun, I've been less scared on E4's.

with Freshers
Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd dnf
Derek Furze 07/Oct/15 AltLd

Never done this and enjoyed finding a decent route up in the trees

with Duncan Parker
Mr. K 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch one, which was excellent. Pete lead pitch two which was hard and scary - felt like E1 5b to us! Definitely deserving of it's three star status.

craggyfingers 20/Sep/15 Lead
Tom.Priestley 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S

P2 only. Don't think I went round the arete right as it felt pretty tricky for 5a. Slab at top eats as many small wires as you can give it.

Scott Quinn 12/Sep/15 2nd O/S

p2 only

superturbo 06/Sep/15 AltLd

Jon forges new route up the brambly gully via lassooing trees

Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
ebf 25/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Led as a 3. Paul led the first pitch. Steady HVS. I led second pitch. Run out HVS. The first set of moves to and around the corner are excellent, the slab above (hint start left, then move right in stages) is excellent but run out. You will need at least 2x#1, 2x#2 nuts, as well as the usual set up to 6 + ideally a friend 0 and 1/4 or 1/2 nuts or equivalent. Enjoy. :)

Hidden 25/Aug/15 2nd
pastep 25/Aug/15 2nd
with ebf
Hidden 16/Aug/15 AltLd dog
spalice 10/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Absolute stunner of a route!

with danny griffith
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Aug/15 2nd
jackc 27/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/15 AltLd
No? Yes! 12/Jul/15 AltLd

Great climb. I find semi hanging belay just below ledge particularly when its dripping above makes better room for following leader to bridge into corner and place high wire before setting off for arete. Currently a stuck high wire protects move around arete. Would not have been surprised if it was E1 - reach helps a lot on both pitches.

garywong 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Hidden 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Dawn_K_B 21/Jun/15 AltLd dnf

Tried to lead P2 but we'd forgotten the guide and tried to go straight up rather than out left. Couldn't do it and Ali lost psyche so we abbed off. Went pretty badly but would be okay if I did the right route!

spidey 14/Jun/15 AltLd
with mat lamb
Mattlamb90 14/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1

with Ryan
will_benfold 14/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out how to get over to the left on P1 (and didn't want to end up on the E2 by mistake), so backed off.

with Martin Frejno
pulseroom 06/Jun/15 Lead

Climbed with William from Catterick.

Hidden 05/Jun/15 AltLd
jezb1 05/Jun/15 AltLd

p1, rpt

Hidden 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
jalqazzaz 03/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
philippe orchard 02/Jun/15 AltLd β
Hidden 30/May/15 AltLd O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 23/May/15 Lead O/S

ended up doing both pitches. second pitch is pretty run out for HVS. that belay ledge is shite.

with Roisin
George Killaspy 21/May/15 Lead O/S
with Darren
wazzalad20 16/May/15 Lead O/S

Way too hard for hvs, I have an easier time on most e2's. Classic sandbag!

with anna henshaw
Hidden 11/May/15 AltLd
Hannes B 05/May/15 2nd
Hidden 04/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 04/May/15 AltLd rpt
Batt 04/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2

foostu4 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 -
elliptic 19/Apr/15 AltLd
with Tom R.
Jono_LS16 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Pitch 2

dobby 200 08/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

I led P2

with Chris
admackie 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

p2 placed my small wires at the end of traverse at the beginning cos i got scared. meant i got a lot more scared later on

Palmer 05/Apr/15 AltLd

lead P1

Senna 04/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch

ned_85 04/Apr/15 AltLd
Hidden 25/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 21/Mar/15 2nd
with Nige Pick, Chris Coleman
nige pacer 21/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

with Mike Hayes, Chris Coleman
dr_botnik 17/Mar/15 AltLd

Got first pitch clean. Found belay ledge a bit cramped, and terrifying setting off on traverse until I found holds.

the power 17/Mar/15 AltLd rpt


with rob
foostu4 10/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
Darron ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Jevans ??/2015 AltLd O/S
sheelba 16/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Did first pitch of extraction then second pitch of this. Had used all my small wires by the time I got round the corner so the slab above was very bold and scary. Take plenty of small wires.

Hidden 15/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 AltLd rpt
dom94 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Found this hard for HVS, starting the 2nd pitch was mean, felt 5b

with NNNNina, Matt Groom
harry_lewis 12/Oct/14 AltLd
with Bastien
kermit_uk 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Good route, no chance of a factor 2 fall though, there is a long crack you can put gear in above the belay gear as you leave the ledge. Top slab is great fun!

Jim Slater 27/Sep/14 AltLd rpt

Tried first pitch of Extraction and backed off. Kev led it and I finished up P2 of Fang.

with Kev Glossop
khalidq 20/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
with Max Adamson
dan_blair87 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Lead 1st pitch

Hidden 09/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
joeflan 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch scary

Julie Carroll 26/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Steve Gorton
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Karl Wooffindin 17/Aug/14 Lead

Got to lead both pitches. Hated the ledge to belay off, just awful.

with JG
Hidden 16/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
mynyddresident 27/Jul/14 AltLd
with KP
Hidden 24/Jul/14 AltLd
Lessworkmoreclimbing 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2.Found crux of pitch 1 hard. Pitch 2 had several problematic bits, really good pitch, and I added to the excitement by dropping my krab of small nuts just as I had started up the slab. Lowered down into space and managed to pick them off the twig they were hanging on! Then climbed back up to finish the route!

with Kev
JamesTurnbull97 21/Jul/14 2nd β
Dave Turnbull 21/Jul/14 Lead
IanD353 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Ailsa
MoWalker3 19/Jul/14 AltLd

seconded 1st pitch of Extraction in error! then took a high variation to the start of the second pitch

with MattB
quarrtman1 16/Jul/14 2nd

Came off twice on the start of the second pitch

with mills
Dave Reeve 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Deserves it's status...full on HVS

Dizz 07/Jul/14 AltLd β
with David
Max19 ?/Jul/14 AltLd
Dizz 30/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Martina went up the crack direct between The fang and Extraction on first pitch instead of going left and laced it so I had to follow - desperate!

with Martina
Pathological_Climber 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch. 'Burst Chair' put in a solid effort on the 2nd:-)

Oliver Tilbury 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed p2. Quite 'exciting'. Small holds, small gear, sloppy feet!

with Mr Miskow
Lenny 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Phil .N
Hidden 28/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Ally Baba 22/Jun/14 AltLd

So hot. Climb in cool weather.

with Gav Swinton
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Pinguville 18/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with George
monsteratt 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

On the wrong buttress was intending to do Plumb. As such led both pitches together. Struggled with move round arÍte until I stepped down and round. Good route!

with Neil
Neil 14/Jun/14 2nd
leon 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. been wanting to do this one for years. surprised at how good the gear was on the second pitch(enough small wires to keep me happy).

Hidden 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
cheeky 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
mark4344 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt Payne
Dan Vaj 02/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
with Khalid
khalidq 02/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Felt very nervous leading P2. The first foothold was a puddle. It was fine once I was en route.

JamesWilliams 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch. Had a bit of a wobble on going round the arete felt a littleout of balance and got scared. Deep breath and a size one nut helped to calm me down! Once round the arete is stedy but bold

adamre12 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1. brilliant. Hard moves scared James a bit moving around from the belay.

Hidden 26/May/14 AltLd O/S
Binder 26/May/14 AltLd dog

Fell off twice trying to tackle the initial overhang. Pretty cool route though.

with Chris C
ben.phillips 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. The moves coming off the stance and around the arete leaving the belay were quite tricky.

andy_e 25/May/14 2nd O/S

First pitch clean, second pitch required a tight rope stepping around the arete.

with Mike Gallimore, Ben Phillips
mapperley samurai 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

A great climb with fantastic positions. Lead P2. Felt the first move off the belay ledge was the hardest (physchological?) as opposed to passing the arete.

MichaelGallimore 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

Scary stepping left from the belay!

The Grist 24/May/14 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 24/May/14 2nd rpt
rbharries 20/May/14 AltLd
with Danger olly, neils EW
mr mills 16/May/14 Lead rpt
with Chris
Big Lee 06/May/14 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Led the first pitch.

Hidden 04/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead rpt
WNW 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
richjm ?/May/14 AltLd O/S

Josh Fawcett.

Hidden 27/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
anguskille 27/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Rob, Tim
Hidden 22/Apr/14 2nd
joeruckus 08/Apr/14 2nd O/S
PaulTanton 23/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Bit wet but fine

with Joe, Chris Reid
nickdonohue 16/Mar/14 Lead
with Emma Grant
Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd
KeenClimber 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Lead p1

with Jim Nutall
Monkey_Alan 09/Mar/14 2nd
with Lenka Marcinatova, Dusan Ondrasek
jezb1 28/Feb/14 AltLd

Rpt. P1. Great route :)

will moy ?/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with Jez
Tom Livingstone 11/Jan/14 AltLd rpt


with Gwen Lancashire
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 2nd dog
oliverpcain ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Dave Woodcock
Hidden 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Will Hunt 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Glad we came back to finish it!

Hidden 09/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Nov/13 Lead dnf
Louise Hall 09/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Tricky move off the ledge

Will Hunt 09/Nov/13 AltLd dnf

Got to the step down and around the corner on the 2nd pitch when it started to rain. Downclimbed to the ledge and abbed off.

robgixer 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
smallerrich 08/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Hidden 08/Oct/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 AltLd
malteserEd 20/Sep/13 AltLd
Adrianw 20/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Ed led P1, I led P2

danmullett 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 31/Aug/13 -
Col Kingshott 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
thomaspomfrett 19/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p2, amazing route!

with Pat Brien
BRoe 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Rob L
kabutsu 16/Aug/13 AltLd
with BRoe
Fragmod 12/Aug/13 Lead
joesmith 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with ade
DanielGyi 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Bold but steady. Didn't help that I was ill and kept feeling a bit faint!

hlegge 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I did the first "strenuous" pitch which was amazing. Dan did the bold technical pitch which wasnt as nice, but still nice enough

with Dan Gyi
pbuggy91 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch. climb counts to e points

Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Phill Mitch 07/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
with bleggs
TimKnight 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2, spicy

Joemanglerocks 03/Aug/13 AltLd

Led P1. Awesome move round the arete of P2

Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
philhilo 28/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Final route on Helen's mission. Excellent job and no soft touch. Helen just finished in the dry - followed top pitch in downpour....again!

with Helen E
Hidden 23/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/13 AltLd
demarcation86 11/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Paul
pryan300 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with T-Bone
Dr Toph 08/Jul/13 Solo O/S

Route of two halves, thuggy start but good holds, then a properly delicate technical traverse round the arete. Nice

jackdimples1 08/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 -
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Neil R 19/Jun/13 AltLd dnf

failed to lead 2nd pitch

with Ian
nigel pearson 14/Jun/13 AltLd β

I led p1. Robin climbed smoothly on P2. We snatched this climb between rain showers.

with Robin
Kyle87 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

p2, felt like avon gorge; thin with good but small gear (when you eventually get to it.) Solid belay and belayer helped.

kirsten 06/Jun/13 AltLd

On the "things I never thought I'd ever lead" list. P1, with more than a lot of encouragement from Matt and quite a lot of swearing and whimpering! pyb

Dan Vaj 06/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2

with Kirsten
Droyd 06/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Chris Marsden
woody0606 05/Jun/13 AltLd

Led P1. All pretty straight forward. P2 has some hard moves straight from the belay, even harder for the short.

lanky 04/Jun/13 AltLd
with Rich
sgl 01/Jun/13 2nd
with Tom
DanBid 29/May/13 2nd dog
Hardcore Pat 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

with Sir William of pettitsmith
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead
pauldrew 19/May/13 AltLd
guy757 16/May/13 -
Helen Gibson 16/May/13 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch

with Guy, Andy Owen
Hidden 11/May/13 AltLd O/S
Tim Rodgers 03/May/13 AltLd
mat cooper 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost 20/Apr/13 AltLd

Guidebook description for p1 should read: climb half way up pinnacle, then traverse left to the corner and climb this. The overhanging "groove" with the thin crack is "Extraction" E3!

Skinny Kin 20/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

I hate old guidebooks. Confused me with Extraction next door. Did this route a couple of years ago in a hurry. Just didn't remember much. Finally found the right way. Good little moves on 1st pitch crux bit and quite airy at the start of 2nd. But I don't really like winding route that much.

with Pete Frost
magicdougie 10/Apr/13 Lead

make sure you have lots of number 1 and 2 nuts or be ready for the run out of your life. The move off the arete takes some pretty big nuts as well if you know I mean.

Freshprintce 05/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Will Warrington
the power 03/Apr/13 2nd
with deacon
deacondeacon 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 31/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Two excellent pitches, Led the 2nd pitch.

with Trevor Wilson
Rachel S 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Cal
jezb1 12/Mar/13 Lead

Lead both pitches. Such a good route. Hard for hvs 5a in my mind.

Hidden 12/Mar/13 2nd
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd
sgl0jd 23/Feb/13 2nd
UncleMephisto 06/Feb/13 AltLd dog

P1 of extraction by mistake

Hidden 06/Feb/13 AltLd
JCAshman ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Second 2nd pitch after climbing pitch 1 of Extraction. Want to lead the whole route.

clarky_two ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Voltemands ??/2013 2nd O/S

Bit of an epic for carlene after thinking we were actually at The Plumb. Again, shite guidebook.

bclifton ??/2013 Lead
tim20 ??/2013 -
kabutsu ??/2013 AltLd

Lead P1

Hidden ??/2013 -
Jonesdben ??/2013 -
grubes 24/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches

with Vicky
vix 24/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with luke
ashtond6 04/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Led both pitches, interesting move off the stance on wet holds !

Alex.M-M. 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Lead p. 2.

Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Broom136 14/Oct/12 AltLd
with Adam B
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead
catblack 28/Sep/12 AltLd

Led p2 - lovely bold climbing, wet footholds added to the excitment.

PaulTanton 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Mills
pie_eater_pete 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood 08/Sep/12 AltLd
with pete sargeant
Hidden ?/Sep/12 2nd
Barry D 26/Aug/12 AltLd

Led first pitch.

with Paul Scott
Nicole Almond 20/Aug/12 2nd

Great climb, really enjoyed it. Found the move under the roof a bit awkward but was exciting.

with Dad
Dave Almond 20/Aug/12 Lead

Good route right for the grade. Nicole in good form. Mixed with Scratched Arete as a warm up makes for a good half days climbing

Hidden 05/Aug/12 2nd
Gerallt Owain 30/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Paul Davies
climb the peak 28/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/12 -
Curly Rich 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with GMC Stuart, GMC JohnP
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd
Stewart Armstrong 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

I top-roped up the first pitch of Extraction, after John's big-fingered attempt. I led the main pitch of The Fang.

with John Proudfoot, Richard Spencer
Hidden 08/Jul/12 AltLd β
tedburt 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Steve Banks
elyben 01/Jul/12 Lead

2nd pitch

Hulda 24/Jun/12 AltLd
with Andi
edmitchell 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S

First pitch only, but done the second before

with kitty duncan
jayrenegade 10/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Nice route, I belayed in a stupid place, but henry made the moves after anyway. Nice work. Henry magically got a little nut stuck in a crack before going round the corner, had to ab off to get it out.

with Henry
henry peter jenkins 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Jamie lead this first pitch and I did the second. Bit run out at the top...

with jamie standbridge
paultaylor 06/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Stu
cbeard 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

A nice piece of climbing - had to rescue Katherine from the first belay, resulting in a 5 hour 'G1' adventure. The slab at the top looks unprotectable from below but hides some nice nut placements

Katherine Ross 04/Jun/12 2nd dnf

Trying to haul the bags on a route with a balancy traverse was a really bad idea!

nepsoi999 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
with pete
Bex_M 26/May/12 2nd dog
with Duncan Dunbar
brolte 26/May/12 2nd O/S
with Nick Pearson
ben1987 12/May/12 AltLd O/S

Favourite route yet. Amazing climbing, into the unknown!!

Adam Coles 12/May/12 AltLd
with ben1987
keith leonard 06/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 06/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
Jacob Forshaw 06/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
malteserEd 05/May/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 AltLd
stephenhartley ?/May/12 AltLd
with Burns
Bruce Houston ?/May/12 Lead O/S

climbed up onto extraction, realised I was off route, down climbed and traversed back onto the Fang.

Hidden 21/Apr/12 AltLd rpt
Mike Goldthorp 17/Apr/12 Solo rpt

Wild solo! First pitch wasnt too bad, but start of the 2nd pitch, up the groove and over to the arete was spiiicy! Top slab is blissful!

Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
RKernan 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Scary! Half ropes a must to do in 2 pitches with any sort of safety. Place gear above the belay in the crack to prevent a F2 fall.

with Conor Gilmour
Marq 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S


with Dave P LMC
arandall 31/Mar/12 Lead dnf

first pitch only, tried the move of the stance a couple times but didnt' fancy the factor 2 onto the belay so abbed off.

John Tanner 17/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Matt Smith 17/Mar/12 AltLd dog

Where to start? Great pitches and exposure. Moving off for pitch 2 on lead is scary, had a 1/2 nut for protection to save a large fall. After many attempts had to pull round corner with aid of placed micronut, so pumped. Huge rope drag on slab after, and then the downpour began. Memorable !

Tom Livingstone 23/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
samrad 23/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with tom livingstone
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
wi11 27/Nov/11 AltLd O/S


with Meg
climbing_wiggy 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Led p2 in the dark

with Matty
Hidden 17/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
MarcusP 06/Nov/11 AltLd

Off route and rope drag faff, but really good and varied.

with Libby
libby.southgate 06/Nov/11 AltLd

Rope drag FAFF. 'Optional' 2nd belay point in guidebook definitely not optional. Without it, there was so much rope drag that I had to be dropped a top rope on the slab due to a complete inability to move upwards and no gear. Nice route, would like to do again.

AntWallace 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
thetradlad 30/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

2nd Pitch

Harry Thorpe 30/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Olli-C 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Second Pitch Only, didnt read the guide book and i lead through the roof of extraction on P1 instaed of going into the groove. Started second pitch direct instead of stepping up into the corner and traversing left felt well hard that way

Rachel Slater 16/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. Runout in the middle was scary

Jake Young 16/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Arthur
mwatson 15/Oct/11 -
Ollie B 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

P2, good gear on crux, easier climbing thereafter

with S.Bennett
JRae 15/Oct/11 Solo


sishaw 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with dom
chrism225 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Andy HPC
Jake Young 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Chris
Darron 01/Oct/11 -
jossjones ?/Oct/11 2nd
Katex 27/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Lead the second pitch, Si led the first. Going round the corner is very precarious! Shortage of small nuts as they were all in the belay made finding pro hard!

with Simon Edwards
Sebastien Gastaud 26/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd Pitch

tigertim 26/Sep/11 AltLd
vinspin 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with ritchie
ritchierich 25/Sep/11 AltLd rpt

Forgot how bold the start of the second pitch was,certainly woke me up :(

with Vinny
Hidden 23/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Matt Cooke 31/Aug/11 AltLd β

strayed onto extraction for a bit on the first pitch

gw3285 26/Aug/11 AltLd
Mr Tickle 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

led p1

Hidden 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Mark Young 07/Aug/11 AltLd
with Mat E, Tom Sampson
victim of mathematics 07/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

crossdressingrodney 07/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

hard for HVS. bold blind moves stepping off the belay. hello there factor two..

with felicity Eperon
stemill 23/Jul/11 2nd
with Mark
Diggler 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with stemill
Andypeck2000 16/Jul/11 2nd dnf
Kevster 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with steve read
emma Warren 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

i lead first pitch HVS 5A

JRae 10/Jul/11 AltLd

Twilight ascent. Caroline smashed P1, I led P2 - really nice, just keeps unfolding and never felt too ran out. Nice to come back and enjoy this after previously spending a whole day on the ledge! Good route.

CRiddiford 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

me p1, jonny p2. to the left,not straight up! Wanted to do this for ages, very pleased to have got it, even if it was a bit late by the end!

with Jonny
Si dH 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead dnf
duncandarnell ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Nigel Bond 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Bern Hardman
Frostie 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
guy757 11/Jun/11 -
ian d f 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I did P1, Steve P2. Very uncomfortable belay with three people! Nice route.

with Maja Holy, Steve Robinson
adam06 04/Jun/11 AltLd
with Ryan
spidey 04/Jun/11 AltLd

sec / lead

with adam
robertmichaeladams 01/Jun/11 2nd

belay ledge was cosy

with Susan, Tom
tomdude 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with susan, rob
madasten 30/May/11 Lead O/S
with Miquel
james.slater 29/May/11 Lead dog

Amazing route, lovely contrasting pitches with the perfect amount of scariness!

Nick Rundall 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Both pitches

with Jon Taylor
john lynch 28/May/11 Lead O/S

with first pitch of extraction

with simon smith
tatz45 10/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd Pitch.

laurelfan 09/May/11 AltLd

led P1

Hidden 01/May/11 2nd
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Dale ?/May/11 AltLd O/S

Very good route, the hanging blay is fun. Lead the first pitch mike lead second pitch.

with mike
Martin Bennett 30/Apr/11 -
with NickH
markhilton 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

climbed first pitch of Extraction

bigglesbutcha 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

I led 1st Pitch, Will led 2nd pitch. 2nd pitch felt bit harder than 1st, with a balancy move around the arete after the middle belay. Superb route.

with Will
will9911 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Simon
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
alias dave 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Sam.EB
Sophie Nunn 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

with Pete S, Phil
Alistair Corbett 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Al
al123 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd picth. hardish move straight off the belay but great slab afterwards

Ceridwen 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Me pitch 2

with Uber Mike
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hardonicus 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

First pitch hard due to seepage in the crack

with Czech George
Hidden 28/Mar/11 AltLd
Ched 28/Mar/11 AltLd
with gali
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd
Duncan Campbell 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S

P1. into Extraction P2. Cool little pitch

with Mikey G
Hidden 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
JonBrown 05/Mar/11 2nd O/S

I made Ed lead, he earned it!

barni 01/Mar/11 2nd rpt

just top pitch

with Ewan
benchwarmer 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone ?/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/11 2nd
ritchierich 29/Jan/11 AltLd rpt

Forgot what a tricky little this was after 4 years and a three at the first belay is not recommended.

with Sera Roberts, Wyn Price
Alex Mason 26/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Gwen led extraction P1. Tried to do the root but followed the fang for too long.

with Gwen Lancashire
Hidden 21/Jan/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
katyvose1 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
stevorobs3 ??/2011 AltLd O/S

Led P2 - best pitch by far! awesome 3 story belay!

mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Wayne S ??/2011 Lead O/S


Mark Kemball 25/Oct/10 AltLd
with Nye Kemball, Nic Dill
Jim Slater 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Very bold moves off the belay!

mynyddresident 22/Oct/10 AltLd rpt
with wolf
wolf.leeb 22/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

p2, gear all there, started to rain as i topped out... haha nic

with nic
Hidden 18/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd
thomasadixon 17/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Good climb. Mike belayed round the corner an I did top pitch.

with Mike
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead
JRae 17/Oct/10 2nd
dan-8990 17/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with AO
Jake Young 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with High Peak Club
M_W_Court 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
matt.woodfield 08/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Cardi 02/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Mark strayed onto the E2 on P1, which was quite a strenuous affair to follow. Bold moves out left on the start of P2. Slab is psychologically taxing, but just enough gear (small wires)

with Mark
HIGHTOWER 02/Oct/10 AltLd

Traversed right too soon on 1st pitch and ended up on the E2. Got flash pumped and rested. But everything on The Fang was clean.

with Garath
Hidden 26/Sep/10 2nd
Oliver Sherman 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Daniel Wrightson 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
DavidR 17/Aug/10 AltLd rpt

Kev - pitch 1; me - pitch 2.

Hidden 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
manik 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch, Ian led the second. My first HVS! :D

with Ian Lau
nakedave 13/Aug/10 AltLd
with Barney Crampton
Glyn Davidson 01/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
with Dan
Hidden 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
joese7en 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/10 -
dan gibson 22/Jul/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/10 2nd
clive-greenwood 17/Jul/10 AltLd
with Dave Clarke
pldarch 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

with Sam
sambosanquet101 15/Jul/10 AltLd
Misha 11/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2 on Mark's rack and kept thinking that he didn't have enough small wires (to be fair, he had some in the belay).

with Mark
katiep 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch two, with an awkward switch around at the small belay ledge

Robin Head 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

I've lead the first pitch. Move around the corner is very hard don't go too high!

with Katie
scorky345 05/Jul/10 AltLd
with Tim Oates, Owen Pearce
tim20 05/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/10 -
duzinga 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S

P1 only, joined the crack below the overhang. rain came and stopped the fun before p2.

with Mat, Omer
Hidden 25/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Martin Cleaver 19/Jun/10 AltLd
with Aidan Bennett
d_meacher 18/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Trisha Murphy 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Guy Wilson 15/Jun/10 AltLd
with Stu
Wilbur 14/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Respect to Joe Brown as this is certainly at the harder end of the grade, probably a bit too hard to be E1 in fact..

with Caine
Julesthe1st 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Andy Stripp
AndyStripp 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
viking ?/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 - awesome route, very stiff for hvs

with wilbur
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Jessie Rushbrooke 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with GF
dan ely 27/May/10 Lead

scary/bold getting out onto slab on p2

with jesse
Hidden 27/May/10 AltLd O/S
mikeyg 27/May/10 AltLd O/S


Hidden 25/May/10 2nd O/S
tomhull 25/May/10 Lead O/S
with matt harris
Hidden 18/May/10 AltLd O/S
aberSam 05/May/10 -
with Phil Wilkinson
hilty ?/May/10 Lead O/S
steev 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Jo B, Gaz
gaz.marshall 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Steev
victim of mathematics 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S

In one mega-pitch. The second guidebook pitch is brilliant.

with Tony
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Apr/10 AltLd
Sam W 10/Apr/10 AltLd

Second pitch not as badly protected as description suggests. Need lots of small wires, climbing brilliant

with Lindy Smith
Glyn 09/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch (again). Awesome route, I think I enjoy it more with each ascent (currently number 3).

davefount 09/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Glyn
Hidden 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
mrtom 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Stephenson
theotherpetehill 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1

hilty 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

spooky 2nd pitch but not hard

chrisallan 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
tom.e 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Mr Powly 06/Mar/10 AltLd
lrandall 27/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Christophe lead the strenuous 1st pitch and I got stuck with the delicate and poorly protected 2nd. A nerve racking traverse but technically more straight forward then the guide book made it sound.

with Christophe
Hidden 23/Jan/10 2nd dnf
nadeem 23/Jan/10 Lead dnf

First pitch only. Backed off cos scared. I will be back.

with DLE
metal arms 03/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

2nd Pitch

soph 01/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
mr mills ??/2010 -
with edwin
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
philw ??/2010 -
Ben1983 25/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
david morse 25/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with todd
Hidden 25/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
alek 07/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch

with Carl Reilly
stratfol 07/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Climbed instead of Vector because the MIC wouldn't lead it. For 'insurance reasons' (being a work training week trip) I was not allowed to lead.

with MIC Ian
benchwarmer 20/Sep/09 Lead
barni 20/Sep/09 2nd
with Ewan
Sankey 19/Sep/09 AltLd

Lead P1

with Jon
jshields 19/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/09 AltLd
Glyn 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch, had forgotten how thin it was. Awesome route

with Simon
lamma_hippie 17/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Jon Lawton
Hidden 09/Aug/09 2nd
Ched 09/Aug/09 Lead
dicky79 25/Jul/09 AltLd


with Les
staceyjg 12/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Climbed also with Chris, not a route for 3, 3 is definitely a crowd on the first belay. Struggled to get off the belay as my rope was not protected, swapped ropes with Chris and then clipped chris's rope into my protection. A hard but good route with great moves.

with Barra
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
csalvage 05/Jul/09 2nd

First pitch only. Due to torrential rain, Bry completed top pitch but abbed off

with Bryan
phil stubbs ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with kelly evans
garythomas ?/Jul/09 2nd
with James Whittaker
Byronius Maximus 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Great route, steep first pitch and bold second pitch.

Twisty 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

P1- despite the description it wasnt too strenuous. Second pitch was brilliant and one to go back and lead next time.

with Byron Buck
tebs 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Fantastic, two 3 star pitches.

with Ian
groovy_nut 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

P1 for me

with Patrick
Hidden 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Birdo 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Wicks
Ian Broome 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Epic with three climbing to share the ledge!

with Mike, Si
Karlos 17/May/09 Lead dnf

First move onto fallen pinnacle is pretty tough. Big stretch to move left under overhang to the corner. Straight up looked much harder then HVS. Got up to first belay, but then heavens opened. Sheltered at first, but then steady drips from above soaked us in no time. Abseiled off leaving two nuts behind. Will be back to finish it.

with Daniela
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead
dan gibson 22/Apr/09 Solo O/S
DavidR 13/Apr/09 AltLd rpt

me - 1st pitch. Hol - 2nd pitch.

Hidden 13/Apr/09 AltLd
Tomprusk 10/Apr/09 AltLd
C@rwyn 10/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Had the 2nd run out pitch :)

with Tom
popov86 22/Feb/09 AltLd
Abi Chard 21/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Glyn Davidson 16/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Glad I lead the first pitch :)

with Ste Davies
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Martin Haworth 31/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 31/Oct/08 AltLd rpt
masa-alpin 31/Oct/08 Lead O/S

The opening moves of P2 are hard and serious (so the strategy of this multi-pitch has to be right!). Excellent route.

with P Luke
PeteH 19/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch, and think I stayed too far left - ended up being 20m of 5a climbing on micro-wires and poor no. 1+2 nuts - only spotted the true line (I presume) when at the top, on easier ground!

Lawrie Brand 19/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Mike Goldthorp 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Special top pitch!

with James --- (bums)
OffshoreAndy 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S


with Ozzie Steve
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd
Mattyk 30/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 which was spicey and kept coming.. brilliant.. was really sweaty though whch made it all a bit more interestng on those crimps

with Emily and Mat Evans
mje1398 30/Aug/08 2nd
with Matt K + Emily
willson 22/Aug/08 2nd

Sandbag second pitch, and the stance was interesting

with ben
C@rwyn 22/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Seconded 1st pitch

with Heather and Caff
HeatherF 21/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Carwyn
smudge 13/Aug/08 AltLd rpt
with Rob
zchael6 ?/Aug/08 Lead

pitch 1

Simonfarfaraway 28/Jul/08 AltLd
with Dave A
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
givemetea 19/Jul/08 Lead dnf

led first pitch but then abseiled off as second didn't want to continue the route

with Pamela Holt
martrin 29/Jun/08 Lead
with Sarah Kekus
chris sm 28/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 08/Jun/08 -
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
irish paul 03/Jun/08 AltLd
with Sarah Joyce
mike bridges 01/Jun/08 AltLd β

had previously been beaten back by the bad weather 23.03.08 after pitch 1 only(had to ab off in the wet then walk round and ab to retrieve the gear) Managed ok this time round I led pitch 1 Rob the top pitch (belayedjust before takling the upper slab so that I could see him.)very thin moves at start of pitch 2 and not much gear on top slab,brilliant climb though

Carly 30/May/08 AltLd dog

went into the crack to early joining the E2 5c

with Richard
Hidden 30/May/08 AltLd
Sgt. Vest 24/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd O/S
Tom Eagle 20/May/08 AltLd


with skygod78
31770 11/May/08 AltLd β

Adam lead First Pitch Previously seconded 5 years earlier

with Adam Thomas
Hidden 10/May/08 AltLd O/S
centurion05 05/May/08 Lead O/S
craig h 03/May/08 AltLd rpt
Hidden 03/May/08 AltLd O/S
chedder 02/May/08 2nd
with andy woolston
Hidden 17/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
ChalkBall 05/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch. Pretty run out and bold, but an awesome route nonetheless.

johniebriggs ?/Apr/08 2nd
John Postlethwaite ?/Apr/08 AltLd dog
with liam
lukehodson 22/Mar/08 Lead O/S

first hvs, really enjoyable. scary start to the second pitch!

lizzie789 ?/Mar/08 2nd dog
with Luke
LC ?/Mar/08 Lead O/S

One pitch

Hidden 20/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
barni ?/Feb/08 AltLd

LP 1st

with Si
popov86 ?/Feb/08 AltLd
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with I. Raynor
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
roberto18 ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hidden ??/2008 -
peter myers ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Colin Buxton, Sally Lisle, Owen Barnicott, Tom Sylvester, Simon Bennet
Luke Brooks ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
joe larner 22/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Hidden 19/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/07 AltLd
Hidden 29/Sep/07 2nd
thomaspassmore 26/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Ben Pryke
maybe_si 10/Sep/07 AltLd
with jez
Jez 10/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Gman ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Two great pitches

with Jonathan
Glyn 28/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Trystan
Hidden 25/Aug/07 2nd
nigel pearson 20/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

I lead P2. The initial traverse was very testing psychologically.

with Robin
tobydunford 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
Mark A Humphries 29/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Me 1st pitch (5a), Gavin 2nd pitch (5a)

with Gavin
JimBee ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Ian Whitehead
Hidden 07/Jun/07 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
alaan 11/May/07 Lead

Went off route on the first pitch and had a rest on gear.

with Jenny
IanJackson 06/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Adam1973 06/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 19/Apr/07 AltLd dnf

Led P1, pulled on gear below overlap. Escaped to tree in gully to R of belay instead of P2. Poor choice of warm up after long drive.

with Robin
Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
JHPritch ?/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Ifan
blancbleu 21/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Tim
Nicos 17/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Ifan ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S


with John Pritchard
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
reg_measures ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with neil thomas
Dom Whillans ??/2007 -
waltersp 11/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Stu
stuwelly85 ?/Nov/06 AltLd dog

Rope drag was an issue on top slab pitch!

with Paul Walters
tumbling wizard 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Andrew1 21/Oct/06 Lead dnf
with Rachel Smith
cem 24/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Led both pitches

with James Gill
01wills 27/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

lost two bits of gear well pissed off

with Grant
sammoore ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Richard Hirst
Dan 85 21/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Tim
remus 30/May/06 Lead O/S

Led P2 after Ed had dogged P1 of extraction. Quality climbing.

Hidden 28/May/06 AltLd
MeMeMe 12/May/06 AltLd
with Nick
Jack Symmons ?/May/06 Lead

Scetchy top slab!

with Tom S
tskelhon ?/Apr/06 2nd β
with Jack
Adam Booth 22/Jan/06 AltLd rpt
Ed Booth 22/Jan/06 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
jake-jones ??/2006 Lead O/S

lead P2

chris wyatt ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
ritchierich 17/Sep/05 AltLd rpt

First pitch this time for me.

with Bob Dickson
Fat Tim 30/Aug/05 Lead dog
ritchierich 16/Aug/05 AltLd O/S

Did second pitch,you try doing this with a group on three people,belay ledge surprisingly small.

with Ritchie Griffiths
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Morgan Woods ?/Aug/05 2nd dog

quite tough for HVS

with James Clarke
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead
IOAN D ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with gareth
rc ?/May/05 -
with Jim
Simon Palmer ?/May/05 -
with Colin Riggs
abercolin ?/May/05 AltLd
tom.e ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Andy Campbell ??/2005 2nd O/S
with Sim
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Matt Tranter ??/2005 Lead
ColinD ??/2005 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2005 AltLd
with Claire Tetley
3 Names ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Nicos 10/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with mark richardson
Castleclimber ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S

1st Pitch- Vince McNally 2nd Pitch- Richard Bartlett

with Vince McNally
Chesh 27/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Bit of a wobbler

with Mick On Top
Hidden 30/Mar/04 Lead
nicholas Barrowclough 07/Mar/04 Lead
paul m hadley ??/2004 Lead
Phill Mitch ??/2004 Lead O/S
with john d
Andrew Barker ??/2004 AltLd O/S

Butch first pitch followed by runout second pitch. Lead first pitch.

with Dave Peachey
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
SteveM 09/Nov/03 AltLd
with Tobs
James B 07/Sep/03 AltLd
with Phil
Hidden 10/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/03 AltLd dog
Rory Shaw 06/Aug/03 AltLd
Different Steve ?/May/03 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 - Jolly exciting!

with Rupert Holbrook
Hidden ?/Feb/03 AltLd
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
John Kettle ??/2003 AltLd
dicky79 ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Mike Bottomley
Coel Hellier ??/2003 AltLd
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
five ?/Oct/02 AltLd O/S
with RG
greedo ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Tim bray
michael burrows 23/Jun/02 AltLd
with ket
rapidrich 01/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Si
Hidden 03/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/01 2nd O/S
Roget 11/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
John Marsland 08/Jul/01 Lead dnf

1st pitch only

with Ant Williams
Andy S ?/Jul/01 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb

with Adam
shoulders 13/May/01 Lead
with dai
akhughes ?/May/01 AltLd
chrishedgehog 19/Apr/01 Lead O/S
with Clare Wilkie
Phill Mitch ??/2001 Lead O/S
with steve winter
Ed Booth ??/2001 -
Ed Booth ??/2001 -
Spillers ??/2001 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 02/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
Hidden 26/Aug/00 Lead O/S
steve prior ?/Aug/00 AltLd
with Andy C
DavidR 21/Jul/00 2nd O/S
with John Marston
rob.grafton 24/Jun/00 AltLd
with Bruce
mike lawrence? 01/Jun/00 Lead
Lepista ?/May/00 Lead

With Gill

Hidden 08/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2000 -
alpinismo.uk ??/2000 -
Mark Riley ?/Sep/99 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Greenall
liabilityliz 05/Jul/99 Lead
with Mark Trepte
EllieWoods 19/Jun/99 2nd O/S
with Iestyn
plain kitten ?/Feb/99 Lead
jfmchivall ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
Paul Boardman 30/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
Pete Nugent 27/May/98 -
AndySL 03/May/98 AltLd O/S
with Jerry
Hidden ?/May/98 Lead
craig h 28/Mar/98 AltLd rpt
with Janet Hannah
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd rpt
Si Clapham ??/1998 -
dickypips ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with john richards
Hidden 02/Nov/97 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 13/Jul/97 AltLd

superb, very intimidating move to arete from belay stance

with Dave Chapman
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jul/97 AltLd
with Richard Bower
Joe Solo 01/May/97 Lead O/S
with jed and tony
michael burrows 02/Mar/97 AltLd
with brian jones
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
Scott McRae 27/May/96 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch, Martin 2nd.

with Martin Hore
Hidden ?/May/96 AltLd
crossleysm ?/Apr/96 -
craig h 24/Feb/96 Solo rpt

Backrope solo

sdht ??/1996 -
GuyM ??/1996 -
akamini ?/Sep/95 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
Budge ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Ceri Jones, Rod Gritten
nai ??/1995 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
belay bunny turned bad ??/1995 -
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 AltLd
Bullybones ??/1995 -
Hidden 29/May/94 AltLd
Strong Steve 22/May/94 Lead O/S
Budge ??/1994 2nd rpt
with Richard Teed
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/93 AltLd O/S
IanGilbertJones 22/Aug/93 Lead O/S
John Southworth 01/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Alex Messenger
Chris Ellis 28/Jul/93 AltLd

Dan led pitch two

with Dan Morgan
Hidden 20/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 06/Jun/93 -
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
nokishatov 01/Sep/92 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/May/92 2nd O/S
Budge ??/1992 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
WB ??/1992 -
Tony Little 02/Nov/91 AltLd O/S

I led the first fitch

ste_d 15/Sep/91 AltLd O/S
with mik
ewjudge 29/Jul/91 AltLd O/S
with JSRCI course
tlr 24/Jul/91 AltLd
with Pom
Mick King 26/May/91 AltLd

Lead p1

with Pete Hankinson
mattnuttall 29/Mar/91 AltLd rpt
with Alan Holden
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Hidden 17/Oct/90 AltLd O/S
Steve Crowe 27/Aug/90 Lead rpt
with KM
mikelaing ?/Aug/90 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/90 2nd O/S
mattnuttall ?/Apr/90 Lead
with Alan Holden
DDDD ??/1990 -
Bob ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
alan moore ??/1990 -

At least one totally baffling move: very Joe Brown.

Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with .
Dave Musgrove 17/Jul/89 AltLd
with Rupert Wyard, David
Chris Wright 31/May/89 Lead
Tony Buckley ?/Mar/89 AltLd
with Robert Clark
Gary Coggon 27/Aug/88 AltLd O/S
with Steve Finch
Mike Owen 07/May/88 2nd rpt
with Elaine Owen
surfbish ?/Apr/88 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/1988 Lead
michael burrows 25/Oct/87 AltLd rpt
with pete roberts
Hidden 28/Sep/87 Lead
Mike Owen 13/Sep/87 Solo rpt
Hidden 27/Aug/87 2nd rpt
Hidden 31/May/87 AltLd
Hidden 28/May/87 AltLd
Hidden 23/May/87 Lead
Hidden ?/May/87 2nd
sadams 10/Apr/87 AltLd O/S
with Guy Townsend
wynaptomos ?/Feb/87 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/1987 2nd O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1987 AltLd
with Jean Williamson, Bill Williamson
ewar woowar ??/1987 -
neilh 28/Jun/86 Lead
Tim Bateman 04/May/86 AltLd
with Dave Leadbetter
michael burrows 20/Apr/86 AltLd O/S
with steve ward
steve taylor ?/Mar/86 AltLd
with Simon Leigh-Smith
Alan James - UKC and UKH 22/Feb/86 AltLd
with Rory Park
RichardMc 20/Oct/85 AltLd
with John Chiverton
Hidden 18/May/85 2nd
Tim Bateman 06/May/85 AltLd
Steve Crowe ??/1985 2nd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
mitch1960 ??/1985 Lead
with Alan Dance
Eduardo Martinez 20/Sep/84 Lead O/S
malc 05/Sep/84 AltLd O/S
with CK
wynaptomos ?/Jul/84 Lead O/S
John Marsland 20/Apr/84 AltLd
with Dave Mould
AlanLittle ?/Apr/84 AltLd
with Carl Blakeley
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
Mark Kemball 30/Jan/83 AltLd
with Dave McCann
nigehughes ?/May/82 AltLd
with Pete Kay
Bruce Kerr 04/Apr/82 AltLd
GordonHart ??/1982 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Dave Musgrove 04/Oct/81 AltLd
mark-abz 28/Sep/81 Lead
with Andy W
RichardMc 23/Aug/81 Lead
with Tony Williams
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
Chris Terrey 22/Jun/80 AltLd
with Mike O'Brien
Falko 01/May/80 AltLd O/S
with Chris Astill (Shilling Rabbit)
Hammy 04/Apr/80 AltLd
with Tony Mitchell
Nigel Coe 23/Mar/80 AltLd
with Frank Farrell
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
daviesxxx ??/1980 -
Steve Lewis 24/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
with John Willy
TonyF 21/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
with Tony Cox
Nigel Bond 16/Apr/79 Lead
with Andy Brown
Mike Owen 20/Aug/78 Lead rpt
with Elaine Watson
Rob Davies ?/Aug/78 Lead
with Angus McLean
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/78 AltLd O/S
with Andy Draper
Hidden 15/May/78 AltLd
Hidden 11/Apr/78 Lead O/S
telemark ??/1978 AltLd
with Len Marlowe
Steve Bell ??/1978 -
Hidden 29/Oct/77 Lead
Mike Owen 04/Jul/77 Solo rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/77 AltLd
kjacks ??/1977 2nd
with John Hopkins
tapley 27/Jun/76 AltLd
with John Sumner
Hidden ??/1976 AltLd O/S
Ian Jones ??/1976 Lead O/S

Hard enough at the time.

with Chris Newton
RichardMc 13/Sep/75 AltLd
with Roger Everett
Bolt Phobia 23/May/75 Lead
with John Broadwell
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
Mike Owen ??/1975 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
Dave Musgrove 06/Oct/74 AltLd
with Mike Butler
RichardMc 13/Apr/74 AltLd
with Pete Stokes, Alastair Gordon
Sean Kelly ??/1973 -
with Barry Linsey
RichardMc 04/Jan/72 AltLd
with Roger Everett
Martin Bennett 20/Sep/71 -
with JD
Gordon Stainforth 20/Jun/71 2nd

'I 2nded it badly and found the crucial traverse v. hard'

with John Stainforth
mikej 16/Apr/67 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
Hidden 26/Jun/66 Lead
uphillnow ??/1965 AltLd O/S

done many times since. 2/9/77 with Alan Bennit and George Wilson

with jim williams
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 185
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 173
Votes cast 169
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set