Rockfax Description
A stunning and historically significant hard route which has seen very few onsight ascents in its 30+ year life span. Get to the spike belay below the top headwall on Cream. Start as for Cream, then make a hard move to gain the crack on the left. Follow this, pumpy, until is peters out, make hard and difficult to read moves up left to easier climbing near the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A route that has stood the test of time and still sees very few on-sights. Sustained with a crux at the bottom and another at the top. The original Fawcett line (first graded E5 7a) was once considered the hardest route in the country. The second ascent was made by an unknown youth at the time called Jerry Moffatt. The climbing of the original line is french 7b but hard to place protection, means the route is worth E6. Basher's variation definitely deserves E7/5.13 or F7c+.

Ron Fawcett/Basher Atkinson 1980

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Super Route E6's, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

dominic lee 21/Apr Lead dog

An exploratory look...Tough!

Ed Booth 14/Feb TR rpt

seconding Ad's attempt. cold and pumpy

Adam Booth 08/Feb TR rpt

Cold. Got reacquainted with the moves, need to get back soon before I forget!

Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
BRoe 21/Jun/15 Lead RP

Headpoint. Should of gone ground up in retrospect, reckon it would of gone pretty quickly, still an incredible feeling topping out on that headwall. Awesome.

Tom Livingstone 23/May/15 Lead RP

Brilliant climbing! Tried ground up the other day. Ended up having a play on top rope. Warmed up and then did it fine today.

Ed Booth 15/Apr/15 Lead RP

Great route. Top roped Monday then led today after checking gear out. All kit placed on lead. Good gear placements but placing it is what makes it tricky.

Adam Booth 15/Apr/15 Lead dog

Balls, fell off from the last hard move. Started the day knackered, then got myself pumped stupid at the bottom having not practiced the gear placements. Made it a lot further that I thought I would after the mega pump had set in, but eventually took the lob onto the top wire. Should go next time if I can remember what to do! Good work Ed, pissed it.

Adam Booth 13/Apr/15 TR RP

Will be harder placing gear, but could well be a go-er! Great route.

Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Mike Owen 25/Jul/89 Lead RP

Both of us led it. I placed the gear.

with Al Murray
Bruce Kerr 26/Sep/87 2nd
with Murray Hamilton
Chris Wright 25/Aug/87 Lead
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