Rockfax Description
Brilliant and technically sustained climbing up the centre of the Nemesis Wall. Good but spaced protection throughout. 1) 6c, 21m. Pull up and traverse left to a ledge beneath a groove. Climb into the groove (bolt) and continue to a second bolt. Using some poor undercuts, make a difficult reach for some tiny crimps, then rock up to reach a good flake and wires. Continue to a poor peg, then move rightwards into a niche and a rest (bolt on right). Move left around the arete (bolt) and climb the technical wall above to the break and belay (old pegs backed up with good cams).2) 6a, 18m. Gain the overhung niche above, then move right past a shallow corner onto and across the wall (pegs). Keep traversing until it is possible to break through the bulge past two final pegs. © Rockfax
FA. John Moulding 21.5.88 21/May/1988.
Clwyd Limestone *** Routes , 2 and 3 star routes in Clwyd
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Craig Arthur)