Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
Brilliant and technically sustained climbing up the centre of the Nemesis Wall. Good but spaced protection throughout. 1) 6c, 21m. Pull up and traverse left to a ledge beneath a groove. Climb into the groove (bolt) and continue to a second bolt. Using some poor undercuts, make a difficult reach for some tiny crimps, then rock up to reach a good flake and wires. Continue to a poor peg, then move rightwards into a niche and a rest (bolt on right). Move left around the arete (bolt) and climb the technical wall above to the break and belay (old pegs backed up with good cams).2) 6a, 18m. Gain the overhung niche above, then move right past a shallow corner onto and across the wall (pegs). Keep traversing until it is possible to break through the bulge past two final pegs. © Rockfax
FA. John Moulding 21.5.88 21/May/1988.
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Protect and Survive
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Craig Arthur)