The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
The alternative direct finish to Smokin' Gun enables the centre of this superb wall to be climbed in one stunning pitch. Continue direct above the Smokin' Gun belay to reach the overhung niche. Pull around the overhang (bolt) then climb the technical wall, keeping to the right of the flakes in the finishing groove of Friday the Thirteenth. © Rockfax
FA. Lee Proctor 22.8.04 22/Aug/2004.
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Craig Arthur)