Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
From a ledge at the base of the tree, move up and then out right onto the arete and a high bolt. The arete is a tight line and leads past a peg and another bolt to a break beneath a bulge. Good climbing up the finger-crack above attains the final roof which provides a strenuous tussle via a groove and peg. © Rockfax
FA. John Codling, John Moulding 22.5.88 22/May/1988.
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Guidebooks for Craig Arthur
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Heaven or Hell
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Craig Arthur)