Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A technical and bold first pitch gives access to the well-positioned upper flake-crack.
1) 4b, 15m. Start at the foot of the arete. Climb initially just on the right of the arete, switching back left after a couple of metres to reach a ledge and thin crack (this point can be gained more easily from the gully on the left). Arrange small wires then balance up the remaining arete to gain a large ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb the groove above the belay to a ledge. Make a steep move to gain a delightful slab/rib. Climb this to a grassy ledge below the final slab. Either climb straight up to the base of the leaning flake-crack and climb this to an exciting finish, or take the slabby arete on the right as for Mr. Ranger and traverse left to belay off the tree. © Rockfax
Ticklists
UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales Summer 21' , BSR multipitch routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| emcawte | 11 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Pitch 1 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pitch 1 |
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| locksbury | 6 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: So good, did it twice, AL P1, then P2. :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: So good, did it twice, AL P1, then P2. :) |
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| Stacy Hackner | 1 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Warning: abundant nettles at the walk-up. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Warning: abundant nettles at the walk-up. |
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| Felix Ottey | 13 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Great route nice lead by my partner russ on the wet first pitch. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route nice lead by my partner russ on the wet first pitch. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Kirkus's Route
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig Lloer)