Rockfax Description
A tricky start leads to easier ground. Follow the corner to the square-cut roof. Turn the overhang on the right, then move back left and tackle the tough finger-crack. Finish more easily up Madog. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Turn the big overhang on the right then pull over the overlap using a strenuous fingerlock in the above crack to reach easier ground.

richshark 06/Jan Lead O/S
with Dave forrester
James Worthington 17/Nov/17 Lead
with Henry
Alkis 11/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Easy for the grade, if you take care not to block the crucial crack hold.

Guy Arnold 11/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Hannah
Hidden 11/Nov/17 2nd O/S
James Rigby 09/Nov/17 2nd
with Ross
iayn 02/Nov/17 TR O/S
with miles
Kmiles 02/Nov/17 TR O/S
with Whits
rossbridge14 02/Nov/17 -
Ricky51 18/Oct/17 TR O/S
SketchyGearPlacement 18/Oct/17 TR O/S
Eka 18/Oct/17 TR
ljkenny 18/Oct/17 TR O/S
AlexBloomfield1992 07/Oct/17 TR

RCS - setting up top rope (Really good climb. Added to wish list to go back and lead)

WillRich 03/Oct/17 TR
Greeny9510 03/Oct/17 TR O/S

Rock Climbing Foundation Course 3/10/17

Dafydd Llywelyn 26/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Nathan Rigby 13/Sep/17 TR
ChrisLloyd 29/Aug/17 TR
UglyKidJoe 29/Aug/17 TR O/S
Daveyc86 26/Aug/17 TR
Hidden 26/Aug/17 Lead
Ianhulme 13/Aug/17 Lead

Need to redo more gracefully

hayden cook 27/Jun/17 TR O/S
Garnham 18/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with jcdavy
jcdavy 18/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Nathan
Dave192939 17/Jun/17 2nd rpt

Confirmed that the topo in North Wales Classics is wrong. Went the correct way this time on second. May have weighted the rope a little bit on the crux...

with Chris Harding
Chris Harding 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Dave Metcalf
AshBarnes 13/Jun/17 2nd O/S
hutchay 13/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Pete Rigby 01/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
Bryn williams 17/May/17 2nd rpt
M25204401 10/May/17 TR
with Rich
Rsharp22 10/May/17 TR

Took the easier route to left.

with Mike
NeilHowarth 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Ryan
LDudill 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
rachelpearce01 06/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with George Sanderson
George_Surf 06/Apr/17 Lead rpt

took the roof pretty direct and didnt fill the higher handslot with a cam! hard pull off layaways for the flat edge

Garnham 02/Apr/17 2nd
with Ben
benjaminwhite001 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Nathan
chelseaa14 ??/2017 TR O/S
tradisrad ??/2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/16 TR
Hidden 24/Oct/16 2nd O/S
m.powell02 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Laurence Mitchell 23/Oct/16 2nd
BC 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S
HenryMeier 04/Aug/16 2nd O/S
arthurraffle98 27/Jul/16 TR
with Plas y Brenin
WillGraham1 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
emgroves 01/Jul/16 -
Fat Andy Heff 01/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/16 TR O/S
wyanp16 23/Jun/16 TR O/S
kierankeavy 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S
myrddinmuse 23/Jun/16 2nd O/S
saffy 22/Jun/16 Lead
with Jay
foobar123 16/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 16/Jun/16 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Jun/16 2nd
tom jefferies 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Fay
spacecadet10 09/Jun/16 Lead
EeFu 30/May/16 TR dog
Daveyc86 29/May/16 TR O/S

Def one to come back and lead. Just remember no small cams in finger pockets on traverse

dinodinosaur 27/May/16 2nd dog

Sandbagged due to nut in and laying over crucial finger holds, once removed flew up it

with JonesE
PTR101 27/May/16 2nd
JonesE 27/May/16 Lead O/S

Nice route. Deano on second dogged it blaming nut placement on 'crucial' finger holds that I didn't use, so not so crucial :)

iainsmccrea 26/May/16 2nd
jalqazzaz 23/May/16 2nd
stevebullet10 21/May/16 TR O/S
George_Surf 14/May/16 Lead rpt

Difficult moves on the wall above the roof, thought i was coming off!

rachelpearce01 14/May/16 2nd
Sidderspti 05/May/16 TR O/S
Wilkie210685 04/May/16 TR O/S
Hidden 14/Feb/16 TR rpt
Hidden 14/Feb/16 TR O/S
Craigpinch 03/Nov/15 -
robertmctague 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Theo
robertmctague 18/Oct/15 Solo rpt
with Theo
Henry Swandale 17/Oct/15 TR β
with Harry Wallington
rushy11111918 16/Oct/15 TR
Whitey9 15/Oct/15 -
Daly3174 13/Oct/15 TR
bantamdave 12/Sep/15 2nd dog
with Will
Dave Cale 30/Aug/15 Lead β
with Craig
Georgie25 27/Aug/15 2nd
Keith Swainson 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Georgie
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
AlexBclimbing 03/Aug/15 TR O/S
hotfeet 19/Jul/15 Lead dog

Avoided the crux by moving left onto the adjacent climb.

MarkRoe 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Dan Miller
nodwas 16/Jun/15 Lead
jalqazzaz 03/Jun/15 Lead dog
static266 03/Jun/15 2nd dog
EllieWoods 25/May/15 2nd O/S
with Cameron
Dave192939 24/May/15 Lead O/S

Followed North Wales Classics all the way across the break, and took a line that felt about VS 4b.

with Simon Allan
suds_01 12/May/15 Lead
Michael Bonallie 09/May/15 TR O/S
Wiley 27/Apr/15 Lead
GStone 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Marcus Harvey
SJPowderham1 24/Mar/15 -
PatrickEnglish 24/Mar/15 TR O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 TR O/S
John1458 15/Feb/15 TR dog
HazelMacLean 14/Feb/15 TR

Probably a good thing I didn't lead this, hell of a move after onto the finger crack. Would have been scary!

with Owen Diba, UBMC
Steven1993 07/Feb/15 Lead G/U

Slipped out of the finger crack after the hard part was done, pulled the ropes through and went to the top.

Charlie Low 07/Feb/15 2nd O/S
Amy Hare 07/Feb/15 2nd
peaterpan 07/Feb/15 Lead dog

Thought I would give it a crack at the end of a beautiful day. Sat on gear after getting pumped pulling into the finger crack. Finished the route on second attempt, but wish I had pulled the ropes and given it a second crack. Another time.

BushwackerBritz ??/2015 Lead O/S
gazace21 ?/Nov/14 TR O/S
08nbrierley 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with charlie
deanhorsburgh 18/Sep/14 TR O/S
jordangolding 18/Sep/14 TR
lewiswilson 16/Sep/14 TR O/S
wixy 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/14 TR dnf
jeremyftaylor 11/Aug/14 TR dnf
BHuthers ?/Aug/14 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/14 Lead
Johnny Rowland ?/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Jacob Hodge 95 18/Apr/14 TR
with peter chapman
Hidden 24/Mar/14 Lead
spidermonkey09 11/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Pinguville 01/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with George
George_Surf 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Up to the roof then right, then i followed the wall to the edge of the roof crack, traversed this, got gear in on the left and made the moves over the roof. One hard move then its jugs to the top. A fun climb.

DanCClayton 27/Sep/13 TR

RCF AT Week in Snowdonia Sept 13

Joe.Howlett 27/Sep/13 TR O/S
Ash_Johnson 26/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Sep/13 TR O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/13 TR
Pete_Frost 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Completely baffled me. Had to escape to the left before traversing back right above the break. How does this get HVS?

npanderson 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Lovely, lovely route! Delicate moves on the lower slab are a delight. Traversing under the overhang is surprisingly easy - just get your footwork right.

reece.robinson 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Paul Eckton
Paul Eckton 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with reece.robinson
Hidden 05/Jun/13 TR dnf
Hidden 05/Jun/13 TR dog
tdoyle 05/Jun/13 TR dog
andrew549 03/Jun/13 2nd
with da_cox
da_cox 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Very nice route and very rewarding.

jimmysdead 30/May/13 Lead O/S
with Emma
ali mccalli 30/May/13 2nd
Alex Riley 30/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ali McAli
vinspin 22/May/13 2nd rpt
woody0606 21/May/13 Lead

Lovely bloke called Paul gave me a belay on his half ropes. Chickened out and stepped left into the easier crack to get stood up before stepping back right. I'll be back to do it right.

Hidden 20/May/13 TR
Hidden 20/May/13 TR
joedoherty 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Gareth T 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jane Woulds
joeflan 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Keelan McNulty 02/Apr/13 TR O/S
Samuel Wainwright 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Emma Smith
Hidden 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S
andrewlyons14 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/13 TR
katiep 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Sian Gardiner
RossCallender ?/Mar/13 TR
Broom136 16/Feb/13 Lead rpt
with Joe Wilkin-Oxley
jade Edwards Leaney ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
MikeLell 10/Nov/12 Lead β

Led after top roping. Difficult to place gear at crux, so ran it out. Placed about 3 pieces in total!

Broom136 10/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Mike
MikeLell 10/Nov/12 TR O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/12 TR O/S
JimboWizbo 27/Oct/12 TR O/S

From the right of the slab, traversed out left using the horizontal crack and climbed direct up the face past the overlap. Certainly felt like HVS, seems like there are a few theories on the exact route to take. Part of SPA training

bede.west 20/Oct/12 Lead β
riff156 28/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Alex Falconer
Steve Wakeford 22/Sep/12 TR
Dom Cordner 22/Sep/12 TR O/S
bleakned 22/Sep/12 TR
with Steve
Hidden 21/Aug/12 TR O/S
mattparratt 21/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/12 TR O/S
spags88 13/Jul/12 TR

good climb with a bridge at the start, tricky finger traverse,

with gary mitchell
Swsloper 12/Jul/12 -
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Solo
Dale ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Another good route short 5b section and very safe HVS 5b perfect grade. Anna wasn't very happy with me on this one she went up the VS to the side of it instead and got the gear out. Then beat me up at the top :)

with Anna
Hidden 26/May/12 TR
Hidden 26/May/12 TR
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 26/May/12 2nd β
with Pete Milner
Hidden 25/May/12 2nd
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead
Robert.harden 02/May/12 TR O/S

Single pitch

Hidden 06/Apr/12 2nd
Wendy Watthews 05/Apr/12 2nd O/S
arandall 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S

rockfax route

Kevin Robert Jones 26/Mar/12 Lead

Good climb. Went straight up the face. Its def a hard 5b move over the lip. Manged to do it without using the easy crack to the left.

Andy_B39 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Matt
BenRyle 08/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Joe W-O 04/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/12 Lead dog
uphillnow ??/2012 2nd

date approximate

Keendan 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S

As an instructor. Needed to use assisted hoist without view of the second. Good experience.

DaveMo 04/Dec/11 2nd
Slick 13/Nov/11 2nd
Poco Loco 13/Nov/11 2nd

Fun moves. Soft 5b if you get the sequence right.

with David M
chrisallan 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
UncleMephisto ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/11 Lead O/S
CM1992 16/Oct/11 2nd
Alex.M-M. 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
stevens744 07/Sep/11 TR O/S

had a go with a bottom rope good climb

with Turner
Hidden 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Gerrard 13/Aug/11 TR O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/11 TR
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S
ruaidh 31/Jul/11 2nd
with Phil
wild_nomad 25/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Nice moves across the slab and best done with the direct finish. Brilliant. Not 5b though.

with Paul Day
Hidden 29/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd
JWB 18/Jun/11 2nd
jon_gill1 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Jillybean 05/Jun/11 2nd
with Martyn
Noodles 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/11 2nd O/S
Richard Kemble 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/11 2nd
willoates 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 17/May/11 TR
31770 17/May/11 TR O/S

Work Training - Testing rock shoes etc...

wolf.leeb 01/May/11 Lead O/S

worth a star for first half

with toad, julie, lulu
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead
steven 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Adi
Michael Allday ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with rodney greenfield
SteWatkins ?/Apr/11 -
happy_c 22/Mar/11 TR
Jackspratt 22/Mar/11 TR O/S
TomMorgan 19/Mar/11 TR O/S
nickevens 06/Mar/11 Lead β

Followed line in rockfax guide, didnt feel like HVS

Tom Downes 06/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 05/Mar/11 TR
Glyn Davidson 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Hollie
thetradlad 27/Feb/11 Lead dog
Harry Thorpe 27/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Feb/11 2nd
Stepanek 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Climbed slab and pulled through on fingerlocks to flat ledge, then bugged out onto the VS, so depending on which guidebook you look at, not sure if I can claim it or not.

chedder 20/Feb/11 2nd
Bones [:B 12/Feb/11 TR dnf
Matt Smith 12/Feb/11 TR O/S

Really balancy start with little protection and then a really cool move out onto slab.

Hidden 29/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
rwm7131 20/Nov/10 2nd
harold walmsley 20/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with Colin Struthers
spalice 10/Nov/10 2nd O/S

Tricky but loved it – great route!

with Jack Pyle, Gwen
minirollsrule 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with matt reynolds
tompilgrem 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Sweet move going across slab. Think guidebook has it right at HVS 5B, but easy 5B. Just balancy move getting across slab until you fiddle in a wire in the left crack. Definately easier than it looks from below, classic tremadog!

with Donald, golly, Dad
bobpilgrem 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Great Lead by Tom. Bold HVS without the high cam side runner.

with Bob/Tom
james.slater ?/Oct/10 Lead RP


Ushuaia 28/Sep/10 TR
SGD 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Followed the line in the North Wales 'Pokketz' guide which is completely different to the line in the Tremadog guide??

B-bop 18/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Olly, Jake
Ander 15/Aug/10 Lead

Good little giggle this

with Ben
vinspin 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with bob dickson
Hidden 04/Aug/10 TR dog
Dave Bowler ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
McGuinness 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Lauren
groovy_nut 28/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Sion
Bex_M 17/Jul/10 2nd
with Ewan Buckingham
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jun/10 TR
ritchierich 11/Jun/10 2nd rpt
stevechaps1 06/Jun/10 TR
mick1jones 06/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Alex Wellings
Gerallt Owain 06/Jun/10 TR O/S
chri55ie 31/May/10 TR
with Ronnie Jones, Sue whittle
Marc-G 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with CharlieJ
Lunar25 30/May/10 Lead O/S
C Mclean 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with dave robinson
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
rovers777 28/Apr/10 Lead RP
Slaney 17/Apr/10 TR O/S

Interesting traverse but enjoyable

munki1971 17/Apr/10 TR O/S
edpd1b ?/Mar/10 -
with Will kilgore
Dean Scott 07/Feb/10 Lead dnf
Dean Scott 07/Feb/10 TR

Going for the lead next time

Hidden 22/Jan/10 2nd O/S
nadeem 22/Jan/10 Lead rpt

Once again good fun

with DLE
peter myers ??/2010 Lead β
with Sally Lisle
Hidden ??/2010 TR
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Ollie Wragg 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Alison Reed
thecurlyone 17/Oct/09 TR O/S
LITTLE SAM ?/Oct/09 Lead

nice climb, in guide it says go out right and step onto face, this is the route i took, as much harder therefore qualifying the grade

with Phil Wilkinson
peter myers ?/Sep/09 Lead
Dizz 29/Jun/09 TR
with Joe W
Hidden 27/Jun/09 TR O/S
JDSwain 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Rich Cannel
smallerrich 24/May/09 Lead O/S

Awesome moves

with Swain16
allanfarrell 05/May/09 2nd O/S
with Emma Turnbull
lost.arrow 03/May/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
cavemancolumbus ?/Apr/09 Lead
with Jo
nadeem 09/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Aaron Crawley
crawa003 ?/Feb/09 2nd
with Nadeem Al-Khafaji
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 26/Oct/08 TR RP
Hidden 26/Oct/08 TR O/S
Kate Edhouse 04/Aug/08 TR O/S
with Luke (brenin)
tontopink 30/Jul/08 Lead O/S
willson ?/Jul/08 2nd
thompson1000 16/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/08 2nd
AntWallace ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Chris and Andy
johniebriggs ?/Apr/08 TR

with hoyle rich ed gg

Flax 19/Dec/07 Lead

Bypassed the crux because I'm an idiot.

with Ariadne Whitby
cpoad 08/Sep/07 TR O/S
with Clare F
Hidden 07/Jun/07 2nd
My Gravity 06/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Extremely thin moves

with Simon S
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden 11/Nov/06 Lead rpt
Dan 85 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Jonny
01wills ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S

good climb

with luke williams
sgl0jd ?/Jun/06 Lead
with Dave Davies
caradoc 07/May/06 Lead O/S
with john b
ritchierich 06/Mar/06 2nd
Sam and will ?/Mar/06 TR O/S
maybe_si ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead β
turnersi ?/Aug/05 TR O/S

I was still learning when I TR'd this. Hopefully I'll get a chance to lead it properly ...

Brown 23/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Neil ??/2004 Lead
M_W_Court 14/Nov/03 AltLd O/S
akhughes ?/Apr/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
21 users have this on their wishlist
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 44
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set