Rockfax Description
Intricate and fingery followed by a powerful crux. Start on the right-hand side of the raised ledge.
Pull up to a blob and crimp up left to better holds. Step left to a finger-crack and make very powerful moves through the narrow overlap above to a good ledge. Finish up the easier wall above. A variation start climbs directly to the finger-crack. © Rockfax

FA. Ken Palmer 29.7.87 29/Jul/1987

Ticklists: Torbryan Quarry, West Country Climbs, South coast sport/DWS ticklist.

Nathan Chrismas 07/Oct/17 TR dog
with Nick B
tommccluskey 12/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Jess, Lily
felixwilkins 06/Sep/17 Lead dog

So close. Couldn't quite make the move going to the ledge

tom169 30/Aug/17 Lead G/U
littleluke 28/Aug/17 Lead

need to come back to this one...sun came out and energy went down!

Hidden 04/Aug/17 Lead RP
Wood for Trees 22/Jul/17 Lead RP

First go today putting the clips in

with Dougie
D.Russell 22/Jul/17 Lead RP
DredStripe 13/Jul/17 Lead RP

1st 7b. Yeah!! :))

with Alice dred
Hidden 26/Jun/17 Lead RP
Wood for Trees 12/Jun/17 Lead dog

Decent onsight effort going for the ledge with a sequence born of desperation, such a good route, really enjoyed it.

with Flo Barton
Hidden 11/Jun/17 Lead RP
Brian H 04/Jun/17 Lead rpt

Second session - put clips in with rests. Alice then flashed with apparent ease. I scraped up on my redpoint, but pleased to have done this fairly quickly. Very good moves.

with Alice
alice fuller 04/Jun/17 Lead RP

Luke started me off on this. Great climbing. well bolted

JackMac 23/May/17 Lead rpt
with Paul Roberts
Joe Costello 23/Apr/17 Lead RP

Very nice, 2 or 3 crimps but mostly nice holds. Pity it's over when you reach the ledge.

kennythescot 13/Apr/17 Lead RP
with Marga Muñoz Abad
hornbywill 12/Apr/17 Lead rpt

Felt way easier

drcorbasisgod 06/Apr/17 Lead RP

2nd go

Tom Corras 27/Mar/17 Lead β
with Anna
Rory Bascombe 17/Mar/17 Lead RP
Toby Dunn ??/2017 -
m.powell02 30/Oct/16 Lead RP
with Gemma
KDhruev 22/Sep/16 Lead RP
JackMac 31/Aug/16 Lead RP

Felt easier than 7b today but I did get shutdown last year. Only worth 1 star IMO.

with Marianne, Hayley
Hidden 29/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/16 TR dog
quiffhanger 21/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Rachel
Patrick Hill 05/Aug/16 Lead RP
with Rach
hornbywill 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Really happy with this.

with Adrian Parsons
sammo247 28/May/16 Lead dog
with Adam_42
Adam_42 28/May/16 Lead RP
EmilyFell 24/May/16 Lead RP
andy south devon 20/May/16 Lead rpt
andy south devon 01/Apr/16 Lead β
i_a_coops 27/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Hugo
Macca_7 19/Jul/15 Lead RP

Done second go after a couple of top ropes about 6 years ago! Found the crux ok but used the right hand sequence after the 4th bolt which was pretty stiff in the height of the midday sun but perhaps not 7b.

with Steve Pack, Martin Perry
DrGav 15/Jul/15 Lead RP

1st redpoint. Very cool lower sequence.

with Wendy
dbrooks 06/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Dr Dave
5210Hill 30/Jun/15 Lead RP
BC 21/Jun/15 Lead RP

Really pleased to get this on my first go of the evening, without the draws in. Really loved putting in all the effort and time. Progress is sweet! Summer solstice psych!

Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
KiaranR 06/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Team Rubbish
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead RP
jonleighton 28/May/15 Lead RP
Adam Matthews 21/May/15 Lead O/S
with KiaranR
Nick Russell 16/May/15 Lead RP

In terms of movement, I enjoyed this more than Thread Flintstone.

JackMac 12/May/15 Lead dnf
with Ed Pask
PeterDawson 25/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Davros the Psyched 07/Mar/15 Lead RP
ferdia 21/Feb/15 Lead RP

First RP attempt after putting clips in. Wasn't sure I had a plan for the first bit really but got through quite tidily and managed to hold the 3 big moves (for me) together afterwards

burto 25/Oct/14 Lead RP
with ferdia, hertha
C coldwell-storry 26/Sep/14 Lead β
with jake Rodgers
Hidden 13/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Coops_13 19/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Tom Sturgeon
Russell Blackaller 11/Jun/14 Lead RP

Really good bouldery route.

with Luke
Tomar 18/Mar/14 Lead RP

2nd go. Firing on all cylinders today after a disappointing Sunday session at cheddar. You go and figure out

Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead RP
lewisrichardson ??/2014 Lead RP
with dad
Hidden ??/2014 -
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead RP

A quick after work tick. Thanks Russ for the beta!

with RusseyB
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead RP
Kris suriyo 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Wendy 31/Aug/13 Lead RP

second go

Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Chappy 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
peteharrison06 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Same difficulty as Thread Flintstone

Dale Turrell 21/Jun/13 Lead RP

First 7b! 1st redpoint try (after 2 sessions practicing on TR). Sweet summer solstice sendage!

with Dave R
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 31/May/13 Lead RP
chris j 08/May/13 Lead RP
with Nick Saunders
chris j 06/May/13 Lead dog

Working route - 4 tries, last try one move from easy ground...

Hidden 29/Apr/13 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Apr/13 TR
Dan 85 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Jack
Tom Seccombe 16/Feb/13 Lead RP
Ellis Butler-Barker 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Harder than the route to the left although most of the holds on the harder section were soaking and unusable. Good fun.

guy xavier percival 29/Nov/12 Lead RP
with paul
climbercool 26/Nov/12 Lead dog

im not sure i climbed the correct line, for me getting to the second bolt was very hard and took me a few goes, after the 3rd bolt i moved right instead of left, this was very easy but i think perhaps of route?

Ramon Marin 01/Sep/12 Lead RP
derico 12/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Jenny, Sadact
Rob Pitt 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Nick Saunders
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 06/Apr/12 Lead RP

The initial sequence was the hard bit for me. Good route.

with Jenni
Michelle W 06/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead dog
_m.cox_ 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Onsighted this thinking it was desperate for f6c, somehow I confused it for 'The Wages of Fear' !

Hidden 10/Mar/12 TR dnf
quiffhanger 30/Jul/11 Lead RP
dmaldonado 19/Jun/11 2nd dnf
nblackbeard 19/Jun/11 Lead dog

Almost got it.

Bristoldave 15/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Ben
Mike_Hayes 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
Hidden 30/May/11 Lead rpt
Luke Dawson 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

first 7b os in england

Jack_F 02/Apr/11 Lead rpt

A slight change of sequence made it that much more doable

adam cooper*super* 02/Apr/11 Lead RP

Brilliant, 3rd go it went, I think anyway!

Ben C ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/Sep/10 TR dog
nblackbeard 25/Sep/10 Lead RP
dmaldonado 25/Sep/10 2nd dog
catt 29/Aug/10 Lead RP

Had a go putting the first few clips in, and sussing the moves after a go last year. Went quickly after that. Nice!

with Hardin
eugeneth 16/Aug/10 Lead RP

I had not done ths when I moved from Devon to North Wales. First trip back here since and got it second go today. Schweeeeet!

Hidden 21/Jun/10 TR dog
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead dog
alaan 05/May/10 Lead rpt

2nd go. Good climbing!

alaan 28/Apr/10 Lead dog

Wrong handed on first crux, dogged to the top.

Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2010 -
Garrouli ??/2010 Lead RP
with Mark, Pete
w.pettet-smith 03/Oct/09 Lead RP

1st redpoint.good technical moves but pleasently simple to read.satisfying reach for the ledge- evidence of people headin right then coming back in- direct is better.second clip tricky, clipped it at belly button height.

with darren, jo
langar27 21/Sep/09 TR dog
dmoir 21/Sep/09 Lead RP
with Canadian James
Jeff25 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S

bit damp. Not expected given its July. v good though and only really 7m or so in length

with Anwen
nblackbeard 24/Jun/09 Lead dog

Think we went too far left before the ledge.

with Tom Grant
JeromeT ?/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Justin T 25/Oct/08 Lead RP

Awesome route!

with Wifey
Hidden 21/Oct/08 TR dog
eddieclimb 13/Sep/08 Lead RP

1st rp, soooooooo close on the OS

with Rebecca Edwards
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Reachy and cruxy.

with Dave Ferguson
bigie bob 19/Jul/08 Lead RP
dannyboy83 01/Jun/08 Lead β
Mark Stevenson 22/May/08 TR RP
with Rich Mayfield
Hidden 11/May/08 Lead RP
Marti999 26/Feb/08 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2006 Lead RP
westyb3 ??/2003 Lead RP
with Andy long
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
Hidden 04/Apr/97 Lead RP
Greg Cunningham ??/1995 Lead dog

more than 1 fall

clark alston ?/Jun/94 Lead RP

Another one of Ken's fingery & sustained classics.

FATBOYFAT ??/1994 Lead RP
Glenn Sutcliffe 30/Aug/92 -
with keefe
keefe 30/Aug/92 -
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Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set