2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The striking arete is as good as it looks. Protection from small wires is ample and the climbing is technical and sustained. Start up the slope just right of the arete.
1) 5b, 21m. Move leftwards up the wall to the arete and climb its right-hand side to a peg. Make a perplexing few moves up and then left to an easing at a whitish scoop, good small wires. Move right and make a stiff pull to undercuts and a peg above. Easier climbing finishes at a ledge and bolt belay.
2) 11m. Climb easy ground to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1st peg gone - reasonable rock one plus other possibilities - grade unchanged but no longer a soft touch.

FA. P.Biven 1962

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Jimbob64 16/Jul Lead O/S

Led first pitch.

with Simon
Ben Seeley 07/Jun Lead dnf

Took a ground fall after gear popped. DMM 3/4 micro nut still missing, if anyone finds it I'd love to have it back as a souvenir. Email me

Pete Burgess 10/May 2nd
with simon tong
sinbad 10/May Lead

First E2 for a long time! In fact - just checked UKC guidebook - last did this route almost 8 years ago to the day! Felt mostly ok - head in gear - just needed to trust feet. Good small wires.

with Pete
Brian H 07/May Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Apr Lead O/S
m.powell02 20/Apr Lead O/S

First E2! Involved & technical climbing, a great route.

with Gemma
gem_stone12 ?/Apr 2nd O/S
with Matty P
JakeB. 18/Mar Lead G/U

Lobbed off on near top of the crux on first attempt, nearly took Reuben's head off on the way down. Great catch by Will. Got it fine second time round, after finding a nice pocket. Great route.

with Will
Wendy Watthews 18/Mar 2nd O/S
with Henry H
Hidden 18/Mar Lead O/S
felixwilkins 14/Jan Lead O/S

First E2

LDJ 29/Oct/16 Lead
with Lou
chris j 09/Oct/16 Lead
with Jeremy
timreynolds 24/Aug/16 2nd
AJM 26/Jun/16 Lead rpt

Backed off it about 6 years ago due to wetness on the upper crux. Took a while to work out today but got there in the end. Started drizzling towards the top.

Tubs 26/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Stuart, AJM
stuartf 26/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Adam Hill 24/Jun/16 AltLd
with Simon
Rob Moorcroft 14/Jun/16 2nd

Bold and sustained, with climbing easing at the peg. First E2 second.

with Richard Ive
G Weatherley 01/Jun/16 AltLd

Followed Ed up the stunning first pitch and then led second pitch to top out.

with Guy Freeman, Ed Walker
Hidden 06/May/16 Lead O/S
Jack Porteous 12/Mar/16 Lead dnf
Brian H 06/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with James Mann
DCIGadget 05/Mar/16 TR RP
Jackislav 12/Oct/15 Lead O/S
LanceSolf 11/Sep/15 TR β
with Duncan Potts
Joe Costello 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Macca_7 27/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Really glad to get back on this after all those years still as good as the first time and almost felt as hard! Thats what 2 weeks off does for you!

with Martin Perry
alice fuller 21/May/15 Lead β

found loads of gear and took ages , despite urge to back off half way.

petecallaghan 06/May/15 TR rpt
Hidden 27/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Stanners 31/Mar/15 Lead O/S

With a 30 minute time limit to rack up, climb and be on the road home I thought I was pushing it! But turned out fine! what an epic pitch. Possibly my favourite E2 to date. Safe technical climbing but it is quite sustained.

with Andy G
Hidden 26/Mar/15 Lead O/S
ferdia 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 07/Mar/15 2nd
with Ferdia
Brian H 08/Feb/15 Lead rpt
dbrooks 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S

lovely

with Michael
FATBOYFAT ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
DredStripe ??/2015 Lead G/U
Hidden 28/Dec/14 2nd O/S
petegunn 28/Dec/14 Lead

Excellent

Graham Westbrook 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
sheelba 21/Sep/14 2nd
alastairbegley 21/Sep/14 Lead

Frustratingly misread the crux and made a big pull the wrong way, rested and then cruised it. Gear low down was a bit dodgy but it improved with height with a bit of searching.

mattkemp70 ?/Sep/14 2nd dog
with Westy
Ewan Russell 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Nichols
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
OllieF 03/Jul/14 TR RP

Probably would have led after another couple of clean runs on top rope, but ran out of light!

with Ant
5210Hill 24/Jun/14 Lead RP
Lee_Meaden 24/Jun/14 Lead RP

One of Chudleighs finest routes. Good gear, a variety of holds and balancy exposed rockover into the groove. Loved it!

LDJ 19/Jun/14 Lead
with Lou
Hidden 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Dean Russell 04/May/14 Lead O/S
tobydunford 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Mr Tickle 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with RusseyB
lawsy_boy1 ??/2014 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Colin
riddle 22/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Just not strong enough.

with Charles Moreton
Hidden 11/Sep/13 Lead O/S
chudders1 09/Sep/13 Lead rpt

felt at limit of head but moves were fine - possibly more scarey without 1st peg now tho !!

chudders1 03/Sep/13 Lead dnf

big fall stepping up to undercut - will be back

andy_pemberton 23/Jul/13 Lead

Still great.

with Sarah Massey
Doug miller 13/May/13 Lead dnf
Dibdawg 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Dean177 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Spent 90% of the time looking for the gear, ended up quite run-out...

Luxulyan 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Can confirm only one peg on route now, the higher one above the white scoop. Still fairly well protected to the scoop and then plenty of wires. Great climb, sustained and slightly difficult hold finding.

with Callum
callum brown 02/Feb/13 2nd
with Rich
Tom Seccombe 08/Dec/12 Lead dnf

Fell off above the peg, which wasn't backed up. The peg is now snapped. I was caught just above the floor.

with Harvey
edmitchell 16/Sep/12 2nd
Adam Booth 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Quality, took me a while to figure out the 'stiff pull' between the two pegs. Very well protected.

Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Davebryant ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
sam.hann ?/Aug/12 2nd
Chaman 11/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with David Coley
Mr Powly 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Ian B
markfromstoke 20/Jun/12 -
with Ian
ian d f 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
Sean Kelly 06/Jun/12 TR

Neat climbing. Damp conditions.

with Harry Pearce
Lyndsay Superclimber 30/May/12 2nd O/S
with Mark S
mark schramm 30/May/12 Lead O/S
with Lyndsay
Okecroak 18/May/12 2nd
andy_pemberton 16/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Great climb. Technically easy for 5b, but lots of it! No chalk and lots of spider webs made finding the holds and gear placements time consuming. You just have to assume that both will keep on coming!

with Steve Gibson
Toby Dunn 15/Nov/11 Lead
with Justin Timms
Brian H 06/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with Rik
burto 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with hertha
francois 08/Oct/11 Lead rpt

Still sketchy on the crux but clean lead. Sat in once on 06/10/11 with chris. Delicate moves on the crux.

with Chris
BelayBunney 08/Oct/11 2nd rpt

Repeated as Fx wanted to do it clean. Good work Fx.

BelayBunney 06/Oct/11 2nd

Nice route - delicate around the crux slab. Wan't to lead this some time soon...

Ed morris 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with ewan
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead
GPN 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Annette
Hidden 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Very technically interesting - verging on desperate! Not one for hot sweaty weather... which it was of course! :( Anyway, got dealt with neatly in the end, unlike that E1 to it's right which is F'ING NAILS

just one more 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with tony l, Svenn G
Hidden 16/Jul/11 2nd dog
Mike_Hayes 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
nickdonohue ?/Jun/11 Lead
with Dave Coley
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead dnf
Ed Babs 28/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/11 2nd O/S
jameshiggins 26/May/11 Lead O/S

Lead on the runners Neil had previously placed during his attempt.

with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 26/May/11 Lead dnf

Had a bit of a mare on this for no apparent reason

Luke90 25/May/11 Lead O/S
with Tom B
Shona H 21/May/11 2nd
Sophie Nunn 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Tiff
Ceridwen 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Shona
TiffTiff 21/May/11 2nd dog
with Sophie
Master Chief 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

sustained climbing!!

Spearos 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

ARGHHHH.... In a moment of weakness I held onto the second PR... GUTTED! cool route, at least I have a reason to do it again now.

Liam FLeming 29/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead rpt
PaulTanton 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Special Robin
Philippa Arding 04/Apr/11 2nd
with nick arding
leohl ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
MH123 17/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Feb/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/11 Lead O/S
dale1968 25/Feb/11 2nd O/S

great climbing, wish i had the nuts to lead it!

with Tom
crimpy69 08/Jan/11 TR O/S
Bristoldave 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/10 Lead O/S
jellyfish82 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
jcook1980 04/Sep/10 2nd
with Dan Walker
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Bobby Gilbert 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 07/Aug/10 2nd dog

made for a fairly tough warm up! had a hangover, got pumped, rested... a lot. a good climb though

tskelhon 25/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Jon_Warner 25/Jul/10 Lead rpt

Good to lead it finally. Very well protected if you're savvy.

with Tom
Chris_barr 10/Jun/10 Lead O/S

1st pitch only, nearly fell of getting into scoop.

with Harry
JonHarvey 25/May/10 Lead dog

Spectacular ... couldn't figure out where to go from the niche above 1st peg and got pumped. Rested and did moves out on the left ,,, bit bummed but hey, amazing route! It's 5b but fairly sustained.

langar27 25/May/10 2nd
Eike 05/May/10 2nd dog
with David Coley
henbot 26/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Dom
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
tom.e 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
cem 05/Apr/10 AltLd dog

Led p1 but not cleanly

Quarryboy 03/Apr/10 TR dog

aww I don't know

with UCR youth squad
Popkids 27/Mar/10 TR β
with Nolan
chris j 07/Mar/10 Lead
with Ben Bradford
adam cooper*super* 11/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead β
pezzerrr 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
rockferret 08/Aug/09 2nd dog

Good lead from Phil, very unlucky to dog it, especially after doing the crux. I came off twice through the crux. Thought this was quite technical for a 5b

with Phil
Phil79 08/Aug/09 Lead dog

Pumped out & rested on gear after crux. Next time!

with Rockferret
Duncan Campbell 30/Jul/09 Lead G/U

on the actual ascent I did it first go placing every piece of gear on lead, an awesome route with bags of bomber pro wish i hadnt slipped off the last hard move! PUNTER!!

joeurwin 05/Jul/09 2nd dog

found this quite hard, two rests which is a bit lame really. Rained very hard on top (thankfully 4a) pitch. Soaked.

with alex
AlexD 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

yum what a line!

misterb 20/Jun/09 Lead rpt

felt easy today ,better on the lead

with sim
tskelhon ?/Jun/09 Lead rpt
sinbad 07/May/09 Lead
with Pete
BruceW 04/May/09 Lead dog
with Becca
misterb 04/Apr/09 2nd
with sim
Hidden 04/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Jack_F 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Adam copper *super*
Steerpike 26/Mar/09 2nd rpt

By torchlight

with Tommo
Reeges 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Really good route with a balancy crux. Not too strenuous but really good climbing.

raku 01/Feb/09 Lead β

approximate date

with Jerome Taylor
Phil79 10/Jan/09 TR O/S
with Nolan and Pete
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Alex More ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with Rob K
benkelsey ??/2009 2nd O/S
thomb ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S

My third trad lead... I haven't tackled another E2 yet!!

with Nick
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Justin T 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S

First E2! Superb route, more gear than you can shake a stick at.

with Crispin
richardr ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Cracking route!

gknyus 25/Jun/08 TR dnf
Jon_Warner 25/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with Tom
Popkids 03/May/08 2nd dog
with Kafoozalem
Steerpike 22/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Mal
Mark Stevenson 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with not seconded
Hidden ??/2008 -
JeromeT ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Dave Searle 08/Jun/07 Lead

good route

with Nick
misterb ?/Jun/07 2nd
with dave
tonanf ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with james
Hidden 22/May/07 2nd
Owen W-G 18/May/07 AltLd O/S

Good pro well earned, yet still feels a tad necky.

with Simon Denison
Paz 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Nice moves and plenty of gear, though the crux is placing it.

with SB
Jon_Warner 05/Apr/07 2nd O/S

I havnt done much at E2 grade, but it seemed pretty friendly for the grade. Gear also seemed reasonable, may lead in future

with Dave a Random
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden 14/Aug/06 2nd β
nathanmanc 02/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
chris j 12/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Chawn
shoulders 14/Apr/06 Lead
with dai
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Rob Kennard ??/2005 Lead
with Alex More
Macca_7 14/Sep/03 Lead O/S

Great route done in the midday heat hard work

with Ann Fisher
Ben1983 ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/03 Lead O/S
jmhood ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Richard Everson
richsmithinbristol 02/Jun/01 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
Hidden ??/2000 -
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Sep/97 Lead G/U
John Mcshea ??/1997 Lead
Roget 04/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
andy_pemberton ??/1996 2nd
with Noel
leadmat ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S

steep and fiddly but very worthwhile

with Chris Hingston
tuftynick ??/1995 Lead
with ben winston
tapley ?/Jul/94 2nd
kristian 28/Feb/94 Lead
pmot ??/1994 -
jcw ?/Mar/92 -
Hidden 22/Aug/90 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball ??/1990 Lead
with Alison Dorey
Mickdenali ??/1990 Lead
Derek Ryden 08/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Krishna
Hidden ??/1989 2nd
Nick Biven 11/Aug/86 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Mar/86 Lead O/S

1st pitch.

with Bjorn Aikman
Hidden 10/Jul/84 Lead β
mark-abz ?/Jun/81 TR
jon 20/Oct/79 Lead
with Elaine
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Simon cook ??/1974 -
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 50
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set