Rockfax Description
The bending hand-crack in the overhanging white wall to the right of the corner of Sarcophagus is a great test of jamming technique and perseverance. Start beneath the crack.
Gain the overhanging hand-crack and push on to a rest in a roof-capped niche. Pull out right and climb up and left to join the finishing corner of Sarcophagus. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Standard Devon HVS sandbag, or E1 for northerners ;)

FA. B.Biven 1962

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

hornbywill 06/Jan Lead O/S

Just grim! Remember your big wires kids.

Jimbob64 02/Dec/17 Lead dog

Hangover :(

with Justin, Simon
JackMac 25/Nov/17 TR

First experience of placing gear. Should try and lead next time if I have the right size cams...

with dparsons, Lee Meaden, Joe Brooke
R0BJ0N 14/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Kellie Grice
EcoClimber 01/Sep/17 2nd dog

Hard. 2nd visit to this. Great lead by Seb. Lovely route

with Seb Boulder Bunker: Paignton
timorme 20/Jul/17 TR dog

lots of rest/falls went slightly off route on start used sacophagus

with Dan Isaac
catrin289 02/Jul/17 Lead dog

I think it might be a while before I can lead it clean

LovelyMrTom 25/Jun/17 2nd

Needed a few rests on this!

with Masaki Noguchi
Hidden 14/Jun/17 2nd dog
brian watson 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S

P1 only. Great moves and very shiney

mskngch ?/Jun/17 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 23/Apr/17 2nd dog
with Flavio
Flavio 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt 05/Apr/17 2nd
with Seb
keepguessing 05/Apr/17 Lead rpt

Much better style this time.

with Chris
Hidden 18/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/17 Lead G/U
Wendy Watthews 18/Mar/17 2nd O/S

Polished to a high sheen

with Henry H
petecallaghan 11/Mar/17 2nd rpt
with Seb Flynn
keepguessing 11/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Blowing out of my ass the entire way up after completely misreading the bottom section, could have done allot better.

with pete
felixwilkins 12/Feb/17 Lead O/S


Cbulman 11/Feb/17 2nd dog
ClimbingAlex 11/Feb/17 Lead dog

Made it to about 1/3 up before I gave out to pump - definitely needed better technique & use of footholds though. Must get fitter!

Hidden 09/Feb/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/17 Lead
i_a_coops 23/Oct/16 Lead
with Mark
LDJ 19/Oct/16 Lead
with Alfie
AndyMorrall 06/Oct/16 2nd
petecallaghan 24/Sep/16 TR rpt


petecallaghan 24/Sep/16 TR rpt


petecallaghan 24/Sep/16 TR rpt


petecallaghan 24/Sep/16 TR rpt


petecallaghan 22/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Started but could not sustain beyond the third piece. Need to make better use of feet.

petecallaghan 22/Aug/16 2nd rpt

Clean but strenuous

with David Coley, Jamie T, Natalie Rees, Ellie Woods
EllieWoods 22/Aug/16 Lead dog

Many rests....

derico 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Jordan
TomJ 24/Jul/16 2nd
with derico
AJM 26/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Tubs 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great route in a good position; decent footholds mean it isn't as pumpy as it looks. Good hand and fist jams throughout.

with Stuart, AJM
stuartf 26/Jun/16 2nd rpt
andy_pemberton 22/Jun/16 2nd
with Sarah Massey, Steve Gibson
Phil79 17/Jun/16 2nd rpt

Felt just as hard as the last time I climbed it. Pretty brutal!

Hidden 13/Jun/16 Lead G/U
m.powell02 13/Jun/16 2nd
Adam Hill 07/Jun/16 2nd

Hot, sweaty and slippy....

with Simon
nickstephens 22/May/16 2nd rpt
stuartf 22/May/16 Lead rpt
dbrooks 01/Apr/16 Lead rpt

quick after work sesh

with Will
Will Mortimer 01/Apr/16 2nd β

After work session. Haven't the guns at the moment to lead it.

with Derwood
mark schramm 30/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with stuart
stuartf 30/Mar/16 2nd rpt
jhobbs 16/Oct/15 TR dnf
Hidden 16/Oct/15 TR RP
mark schramm 09/Oct/15 Lead

Nightime head torch fun!

with Jamie
Hidden 09/Oct/15 2nd dog
Doug miller 29/Sep/15 Lead dnf
with Alex Rowe
dbrooks 23/Aug/15 Lead G/U

excellent route despite the polish, still worth 3* imo

with Ben, Gareth
Hidden 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Brian H 17/May/15 Lead rpt
petecallaghan 06/May/15 TR rpt
Hidden 27/Apr/15 Lead O/S
BC 10/Apr/15 Lead G/U
James Oswald 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S


with Andy Moles
ferdia 07/Mar/15 2nd
Andy Moles 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
dbrooks 25/Jan/15 2nd O/S

will be back to lead at some point

with Jack
supersouthward 25/Jan/15 -

Took a lob at the end of the strenuous climbing, lowered, pulled the ropes and led through, really fun route!

with Derwood
Hidden 19/Jan/15 Lead β
Hidden ??/2015 -
OllieF 28/Dec/14 TR RP

Pumpfest, brought back my tendonitis! Excellent.

with Davina, PeteG, Martin
youwillfindjimbo 30/Nov/14 Lead dog
with Dan Ely
edinbed 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Straightforward. Partner declined to follow

alice fuller 17/Oct/14 Lead β

on pete's gear

Paul_southgate68 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great route ***

Lee_Meaden 16/Aug/14 Lead RP

Pump-fest! Foot jams helped but struggled to use any worthwhile hand jams

with Luke Robinson
Ewan Russell 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Tom Nichols
DredStripe 12/Jun/14 Lead dog
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd
gg4419 04/May/14 Lead dog

Fell twice but then did clean from the ground with gear clipped in crack.

nickstephens 04/May/14 2nd O/S
tobydunford 15/Mar/14 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
Mr Tickle 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with RusseyB
grp 07/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Russell Blackaller 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Just a couple of jams. Pretty steep she be.

with Charlotte
theloringharvey 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Katherine Durtnell
andy_pemberton 23/Jul/13 Lead

Warm and slippy.

with Sarah Massey
Hidden 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
EcoClimber 01/Jun/13 2nd dnf
nickstephens 01/Jun/13 Lead dog
with richard climber, marija, Gareth Greeves
gg4419 01/Jun/13 2nd dog

Hung to remove walked cam.

danJBA 30/May/13 Lead O/S

Slippy in the sun

Kayan 30/May/13 2nd
Luxulyan 18/May/13 2nd β
with Dan S
Dibdawg 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Dean177 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Like climbing on marble.

Jack.Luckhurst 27/Mar/13 Lead O/S
alice fuller 18/Dec/12 2nd O/S

After Pete threw his toys out the pram :-)

tomwheeler 08/Dec/12 2nd

Led half of first pitch. Slipped on polish. Seconded after Bens lead.

Tom Seccombe 08/Dec/12 Lead rpt
with Harvey
bencoope 08/Dec/12 Lead
Mike W 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead dog
Davebryant ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
sam.hann ?/Aug/12 2nd
mark schramm 27/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Dave C
Hinchrn 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Such a good climb, a prober crack climb classic

rustaldo 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good climbing, didn't have to employ much jamming, lots of good holds. Good rest in the niche too.

onlyfoddington 24/Jun/12 2nd dnf

Had a couple of rests (making better progress than anticipated) before blacking out...

with James H
Kayan 24/Jun/12 Lead dog

Bloody powerful...

Mr Powly 08/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ian B
mark schramm 28/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with stuart
burto 10/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with jerome
Toby Dunn 15/Nov/11 Lead
mark schramm 13/Nov/11 Lead dog

Got pumped early on and had to have a rest on the steep bit.

with chawn
AlistairB 13/Nov/11 2nd O/S


with Bjorn
Hidden 08/Nov/11 TR dnf
Brian H 06/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
mark schramm 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Dave L, tom m
tommoulds 22/Oct/11 TR
with Schramm
francois 08/Oct/11 Lead dog

Total pumpfest!!! Had to sit in twice due to getting exploded placing gear. Jamming helps. Southern grades are normally soft but this was tricky! Not Belgium's finest hour!!!

with Chris
BelayBunney 08/Oct/11 2nd RP

Got pumped out. Fx and I alternately tried to lead this. It was a dog fest! Embarrassing really! Fx completed lead in the end and I seconded (clean).

Mike_Hayes 11/Sep/11 2nd
Mr Sparkle 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
zachbassett10 ?/Sep/11 TR dnf

quiet fun climb not to tricky was very tied when tried want to try again

with tom baker
Hidden 23/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mark schramm 26/Jun/11 TR dog
richardr 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Duncan Turner 11/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jameshiggins 26/May/11 2nd O/S
with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 26/May/11 Lead O/S
Justin T 07/May/11 Lead rpt

Old bete noir put to bed. Actually quite pleasant climbing!

with Cherry
Liam FLeming 29/Apr/11 Lead
PaulTanton 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Special Robin
elCapitano 14/Apr/11 Lead dog

Dogged 3 rests on the diagonal. Pretty weak but only 2nd limestone trad lead so I'm over it.

with Pete
Hidden 14/Apr/11 2nd dog
Philippa Arding 04/Apr/11 2nd
with nick arding
Hidden 04/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Mar/11 TR
mark schramm 30/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Dave C
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead dog
John Tanner 05/Feb/11 2nd O/S
with Sarp Akcay
Hidden 09/Jan/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Jan/11 2nd O/S
paultaylor ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/10 Lead β
Hidden 20/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Oct/10 TR
Tom Seccombe 16/Oct/10 Lead dog
mark schramm 13/Oct/10 Lead dog

Hung around too long on the lower step section. Arms got completely pumped.

with steve P
Marti999 06/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Mick Ward
MH123 17/Sep/10 TR rpt
La Mont 30/Aug/10 -
Richard Horn 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
benkelsey 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S

steep, not a good warm up!!

Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

stayed dry in the pouring rain.

with nick
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Si dH 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Nice route, hard work. Felt very slimy, espec at bottom. A limestone jamming crack that is not over-graded, even at E1 as given in WCC book.

with Neil Furniss
mark schramm ?/Jul/10 TR
with steve P
adam cooper*super* 21/Jun/10 Lead

defo E1

Chris_barr 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Sustained Jug pulling, Retro Flash.

with Harry
cem 05/Apr/10 2nd
Quarryboy 03/Apr/10 TR dog

very steep polished and pumpy

with UCR youth squad
Popkids 27/Mar/10 2nd dog
with Nolan
chris j 07/Mar/10 Lead
with Ben Bradford
nickdonohue ??/2010 Lead
with Martin ?
pezzerrr ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/09 TR rpt
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead rpt
jbulger 24/Sep/09 2nd
with Will Pettet Smith
w.pettet-smith 24/Sep/09 Lead

hard! failed on it before but pressed on this time. pretty steep and protecting it properly pumps you reet out. glad to have ticked it.

with jo
porridgefan 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Pretty sure this gets E1...

with Niall Francis
Hidden 21/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Macca_7 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S

What an enjoyable route! Prehaps HVS if you can jam and don't mind slippey gear! E1 for me! Some big moves on steep ground!

Legs 31/Jul/09 2nd
with Macca
Hidden 13/Jul/09 Lead O/S
tom169 09/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Laura
MH123 ?/Jun/09 TR rpt
Jack_F 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Steerpike 02/Apr/09 Lead dog
with Huw
raku 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S

approximate date

with Jerome Taylor, Beata Rakowska
Hidden ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Dec/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/08 2nd
tom169 16/Apr/08 Lead dog
with Laura
Mark Stevenson 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with not seconded
Hidden 04/Jan/08 2nd rpt
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
sharmawho? ??/2008 TR RP
with shunted
Steerpike 25/Oct/07 Lead β
with Mark
AJH 19/Aug/07 2nd dog
with Crispin
Justin T 19/May/07 Lead dog

Damn it I WILL do this clean one day!

with Wifey
Justin T 04/May/07 Lead dnf

Brutal. Will go back to try this again with a better game-plan.

with Martin
Paz 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Bit too pumpy for HVS, bearing in mind this is nearly 10 degrees steeper than otherwise similar HVS fare at Millstone, and due to a weird fiddly fist crack is probably best done with a tasty run out up as in the photo taken in the SD+D guide if a comprehensive set of cams is unavailable. Harder than Aviation at any rate

with SB
vaughansc ??/2007 -
sebrider ??/2007 Lead dog
with Roby Rudolf
climber sim ??/2007 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
Dave Searle 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 13/May/06 Lead O/S
shoulders 14/Apr/06 Lead
with dai
Mark Kemball 26/Feb/06 2nd
with Nic Dill
jake-jones ??/2006 2nd β
jmhood ??/2006 Lead RP
with Wayne Miller
chris j ?/Feb/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 Lead dnf
charlesmfrench 08/Jun/04 AltLd O/S


with Simon Howe
lost.arrow 18/Oct/03 -
northerngreg ??/2001 2nd dog
Roget 09/Jun/00 Lead rpt
with jim
richsmithinbristol 05/Feb/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Chris Ebbutt ??/2000 Lead
andy_pemberton ??/1998 Lead
nacnud 16/Nov/96 Lead
colin milton 10/Aug/95 2nd
with eric milton
Mark Kemball 16/Jul/95 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
leadmat ?/Jul/95 Lead
sdht ??/1994 -
pmot ??/1994 -
kristian ?/Nov/93 Lead
JBallard ?/May/93 TR O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Roget 24/Jun/90 2nd O/S
with jim
Hidden 08/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 04/Feb/90 Lead rpt
with Andy Forbes
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Mickdenali ??/1990 Lead
steve taylor ??/1989 Lead O/S

Desperate, but do-able if you can jam.

with Eamonn Flood
RichardMc 02/May/88 Lead O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Philip Scorer
Hidden 22/Nov/87 Lead
clark alston ?/Mar/86 Lead O/S
Hammy 10/Feb/85 Lead
with Colin Struthers, Dave Johnston
Hidden 16/Dec/84 Lead β
Steve Lewis 25/Oct/82 AltLd O/S
with Pat
mark-abz 31/Oct/79 2nd
with Jonti F
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Simon cook ??/1974 -
Dave Musgrove 22/Apr/73 Lead
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 63
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set