2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Stylish climbing requiring good technique and a set of strong fingers. Start just left of the cave below a ledge at 3m.
1) 5b, 15m. Boulder to a ledge at 3m and move up the technical wall above it. Continue through the narrowing groove to a stance on a prow.
2) 5a, 10m. Climb up the steep crack behind the belay and then traverse wildly rightwards around the arete to finish direct on good holds. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 1968

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Strife 16/Jul AltLd G/U

Led p1. Foot slipped when downclimbing after placing gear. I literally only fell a few inches onto the big ledge but if I log it as an onsight there is no way I could live with the guilt. Cool route - the slab swallows a surprising amount of small wires and microcams

Jimbob64 16/Jul AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2.

Ian.ch 25/Jun 2nd dog

Found the move off the ledge hard, but got it eventually. Did all the other moves together. Really nice, one day...

with Masaki
m.powell02 07/Jun Lead O/S

Lead as one pitch.

Hidden 07/Jun 2nd O/S
alice fuller 07/Jun Lead rpt

Ace route.found a kneebar on the top wall

mskngch ?/Jun Lead O/S
Jess Carr 21/May Lead O/S
with Rich Pollard
Brian H 07/May Lead

With correct finish this time.

with Alice
Pete Burgess 26/Apr 2nd
with simon tong
sinbad 26/Apr Lead

Lead both pitches. Rested on first pitch - still not got head in gear properly. Second pitch fine once I'd summoned up courage to commit!

with Pete
ollie1 21/Apr AltLd
LDJ 21/Apr AltLd
with Lou, Ollie
Hidden 02/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Mar AltLd O/S
Wendy Watthews 18/Mar AltLd O/S

Lead p1, Henry p2. Good climbing better protected than first impressions although I may have complained Jake had my micros they weren't needed.

with Henry H
JoeCoxson 17/Mar Lead O/S

Awesome route, with great moves on the face and better gear than it looks from the bottom. Top section is great fun but the easy escape is all too tempting

omaskrey 17/Mar 2nd
felixwilkins 11/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Feb AltLd O/S
PeteMc 12/Feb AltLd O/S

Led p1

Hidden 09/Feb AltLd G/U
Hidden 01/Jan Lead
Sam4242 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Dale Turrell 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Done as 1 pitch. I think I went slightly too left at the top.

with Finn
EllieWoods 24/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Ollie
derico 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Good climb, led as a single pitch as both seemed too short to split.

with Tom Jordan
TomJ 24/Jul/16 2nd
with derico
Chris Ebbutt 05/Jun/16 TR
shoulders 08/May/16 Lead O/S
with pete lewis
Hidden 01/May/16 -
Oo 01/May/16 2nd
with Tim_C7
Tim_C7 01/May/16 Lead O/S

Absolutely fantastic route. Great variety, delicate then mad!

with Toby D
Dr Chrismas 30/Apr/16 2nd dnf

First half really interesting climbing (if a bit polished), had a mare and bottled the swing, escaped left.

with Timms
dbrooks 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

led p1, 2 good contrasting pitches..first time out climbing for a while. enjoyable climb

with Will
Will Mortimer 25/Mar/16 AltLd dog

First lead since the knee injury. Awesome route, terrible fitness..

with Derwood
Rob Moorcroft 20/Mar/16 2nd
with Richard Ive
Jack Porteous 12/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden ??/2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Sep/15 TR
nickdonohue 15/May/15 Lead

I didn't expect to find it but there was good gear (wires & small cams) protecting the crux on the lower wall.

with Andy Bisson
Hidden ??/2015 -
FATBOYFAT ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Dec/14 Lead O/S
martin clarke 01/Nov/14 2nd rpt
stephen ashworth 01/Nov/14 Lead
with Ian hendy, martin clarke
adrianellis 13/Sep/14 TR dnf

Couldn't get past crux. At least I've tried an E1 now.

with KES
lcullum7 13/Sep/14 TR O/S
with KES
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead dog
Duncan Campbell 12/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Nice to do such a fun route again. So good.

with GuyVG
Wood for Trees 12/Aug/14 2nd

thin low down and righteous wild jugs at the top

alice fuller 20/Jun/14 Lead RP

had thick- with- feet moment on the crux..lowered off on nuts, then did moved fine. great climb. pete v patient:)

BC 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Lee_Meaden 13/May/14 Lead RP

Linked both pitches together. Great technical first pitch. Commited 2nd pitch. Commited to the block only for gear to pop out of cave....Attack of the disco leg....Sweaty brow in full flow....thankfully pulled through after calming words of encouragement from belayer

with Luke Robinson
Lee_Meaden 15/Apr/14 TR rpt
Neil Rigiani 09/Apr/14 TR O/S

Delicate moves over slab to finish on big holds at top.

mark schramm 09/Apr/14 TR
Hidden 09/Apr/14 TR RP
Hidden 23/Mar/14 TR
tobydunford 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
lawsy_boy1 ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 14/Dec/13 Lead rpt
LJC 08/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Theo
alice_loudon 07/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Mungo, Geoff
riddle 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, P2 was interesting.

with Charles Moreton
cem 22/Sep/13 2nd

Good route. Thought p1 was tough for the grade

R2B 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Loved it! Great slab with brilliant holds to blind wild swing out on jugs. Lead as one pitch. One of my favourites here so far!

with Charlotte
timreynolds 28/Aug/13 Lead dog

Will return for a clean ascent when not so sweaty!

Didymus 18/Aug/13 Lead dnf

forgot that polish and hot midday sun don't mix - downclimbed from halfway up slab

Chris dyer 02/Aug/13 TR dnf
with Jack Hunter, Josh sims
josh.sims 02/Aug/13 TR
chudders1 13/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with steeley
Dan 85 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Daz
Andy Moles 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Burton
dparsons 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Half decent. Nice mono!

with Tammy
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
sinbad 16/Apr/13 2nd
with Chris Blaxland, Pete
Dibdawg 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Dean177 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Polished start (as with all the climbs here) but a decent finish.

Lauren Davies 06/Feb/13 TR O/S
with Ant
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Neil Morbey 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Dave B
Luxulyan 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
BelayBunney 27/Sep/12 Lead β

Really pleased I led this! Thought I was coming off on the crux, but managed to push through! Well chuffed.

francois 27/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Chris
Hidden ?/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mark schramm 27/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Dave C
iantoday 28/May/12 2nd dnf

managed bottom moves and up through spearhead, bottled top section

chudders1 28/May/12 Lead rpt

nice technical moves- gear interesting !!!

francois 27/May/12 Lead O/S
with Chawn
mark schramm 23/May/12 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
cwildblood 18/May/12 2nd dog
Doug miller 18/May/12 Lead
sam.hann 17/Apr/12 AltLd
Davebryant 17/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Okecroak 13/Apr/12 2nd
with C. Ebbutt, W. Frost
Chris Ebbutt 13/Apr/12 2nd
with Dave R.
KDhruev 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with angus
Mr Powly 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ian B
ian d f 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
Ed Babs 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd
burto 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
AlistairB 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Climbed a bit to the left of the first wall owing to seepage. Climbed as one pitch.

with Bjorn
twright180 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Westy 12/Nov/11 2nd dog
andy_pemberton ?/Nov/11 Lead
with Rik Meek
Toby Dunn 05/Oct/11 2nd
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 05/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Toby
Ed morris 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with ewan
Frostie 21/Aug/11 Lead
with Nick Andrews
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mark schramm 01/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with chawn
mark schramm 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with tom mason
just one more 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with Svenn G
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead rpt
PaulTanton 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Mr Tickle 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Very hot day made the polished holds worse

with davenev
davenev 20/Apr/11 -
with luke
pezzerrr 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
MH123 15/Apr/11 2nd O/S
adam cooper*super* 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

very nice route and warm up :)

Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Luke90 30/Jan/11 Lead

Clean(ish) onsight. One cheeky slump onto gear near the bottom but I didn't have the heart to call it dogged (my first E1).

with Chris
dale1968 28/Jan/11 2nd dnf
with Tom
Hidden 28/Jan/11 Lead O/S
nick99 25/Oct/10 2nd
with Sam W
Sam W 25/Oct/10 -

Sandbag at HVS (South Devon and Dartmoor guidebook). Peg runner no longer present

francesanncavanagh 20/Oct/10 2nd
with Haven Banks
misterb 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with wain
JonBrown 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tiff
Rupey 04/Sep/10 2nd rpt
feilx 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
TiffTiff 04/Sep/10 2nd β
Hidden 24/Aug/10 2nd dog
Toby Dunn 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
iantoday 22/Aug/10 TR dog
with Susan Vanstone, Elliot Vanstone, Jamie Vanstone, Darren LeMarquand
chudders1 22/Aug/10 TR O/S

nice bottom to this -proper limestone

Bristoldave 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with nick
tskelhon 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nice and sweaty.

Jon_Warner 25/Jul/10 2nd rpt

Finishing with the wild rightwards swing feels hard (bold perhaps) for E1...

with Tom
Chris_barr 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Retro Flash, stiff lower wall section, Pockets. Good top juggy section.

with Harry
thomb ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden 18/May/10 TR
Hidden 18/May/10 TR rpt
jamessandels 29/Mar/10 TR
with Henry Picket
Hidden 20/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

awesome route reli ahd to fight on the finish! did in one pitch not sure why you would bother in 2 pitches u get a full recovery after initial crux

tom169 11/Aug/09 -
r1msy 11/Aug/09 TR rpt
with Tom
rockferret 08/Aug/09 2nd

Lead the bottom section, messed up a gear placement and then hung around too long and finally came off. Phil took over and showed me how it was done. Seconded it clean.

with Phil
Phil79 08/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Rockferret
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead
tom169 24/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Jack
pedro.silva 07/Jun/09 2nd dog

Amazing climb. Move at the top to traverse around pinacle is quite dawnting but holds are perfect. Came off, one foot slipped at the start.

with Phil
Phil79 07/Jun/09 Lead rpt

Finally got back on this and did the end clean. Great route - technical start, comitting finish.

with Pedro
Marti999 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 11/Apr/09 2nd rpt

The peg has gone...

with Marti
mike88 16/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Wicked route! the 2 pitches are so different.

with Robbie Warke
Hidden 31/Jan/09 Lead dnf
Mark Stevenson 10/Jan/09 2nd O/S
with Ed Southwood
Jack_F ??/2009 Lead O/S

Definately still HVS

with Max hodges
Phil79 ?/Dec/08 Lead dog

Strung both pitch's together, but wimped out at the top & finshed left, rather than swing right. Will be back to do it clean.

with Baz
Hidden 19/Nov/08 Lead O/S
briar4012 19/Nov/08 2nd dog
with Adam and Pete
Reeges 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd Pitch. Great route, really contrasting pitches. Get a friend with a camera to capture the top moves! Ape like!

Hidden 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
AlexD 23/Jul/08 Lead β
with Sim
Hidden ?/Jul/08 2nd RP
Popkids 28/Jun/08 2nd O/S

The top traverse is bold and comitting but on good jugs

with Kafoozalem
Justin T 16/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Wifey
Hidden 09/Jun/08 2nd
Steerpike 22/May/08 Lead rpt
with Huw
BruceW 22/Mar/08 Lead dog

Very polished foothold - slipped off twice!

with Becca
Hidden 20/Feb/08 Lead dnf
Rupey 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with W, S +H
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
sharmawho? ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Oli, Chris, Nick , Dave
Justin T 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Crispin
Dave Searle 31/Jul/07 Lead
Noodles ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S

Very pumpy + i was pretty tierd.

with Bridget Benson
Steerpike 08/Jun/07 Lead dog
with Tommo
manwithacam 12/May/07 Lead

Came off onto piton on bottom wall. Top traverse 'gets one going'. Dont hang about.

with Martin
Dave Searle 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S
misterb 08/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with dave
climber sim ??/2007 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Dave Searle 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
nathanmanc 02/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Mark Kemball 26/Feb/06 Lead
with Nic Dill
Hidden 06/Aug/05 Lead dnf
max_chan ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Lou
Macca_7 13/Mar/05 Lead O/S

Two good contrasting pitches second struggled but enjoyed I think!

with John Wright
JeromeT ??/2005 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 18/Oct/03 -
Ben1983 ?/Jul/03 Lead β
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
chris sm 04/Apr/03 2nd O/S
with Julie Osborn
jmhood ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Richard Everson
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Sep/97 Lead G/U
John Mcshea ??/1997 Lead
Roget 08/May/96 2nd O/S
with jon
leadmat ?/Jul/95 Lead
ukb & bmc shark ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with John Codling
tuftynick ??/1995 Lead
with ben winston
tompercy 26/Nov/94 Lead
with MH?
kristian 27/Mar/94 Lead
sdht ??/1994 -
pmot ??/1994 -
Hidden 11/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 28/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Tom Joynson
Hidden ??/1990 -
Mickdenali ??/1990 Lead
Derek Ryden 28/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Adam Harvey
davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Philip Scorer
Hidden ??/1987 2nd
clark alston ?/Dec/86 Lead

2nd previously.

Hidden 26/Jul/84 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Simon cook ??/1974 -
13 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 40
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set