UKC

Restricted Access

Eridge Rocks Nature Reserve Climbing Agreement 

The climbing restrictions on the main crag at Eridge Rocks have been lifted after agreement with Sussex Wildlife Trust and repair of the damage caused by climbers/ boulderers in 2020.

The revised agreement is shown in its entirety below. Please be aware that the areas where climbing is permitted has been reviewed  as below. Please note that the permitted and restricted areas shown in guidebooks no longer apply.. The permitted and restricted areas are marked by wooden posts, similar to those used to depict restrictions (such as bird bans) at other sensitive crags. If you observe climbers/boulderers in restricted areas or using chalk or a substitute, please point out the agreement and ask them to observe its conditions.

 

SWT - BMC Agreement:

1.The areas where climbing/bouldering is allowed will be reviewed by the SWT in consultation with the BMC every six years to coincide with the SWT’s bryophyte surveys.

2.The BMC will work with climbers and SWT to ensure guidelines are adhered to. 

3.SWT reserve the right to close climbing on site or on particular climbs if guidelines are not being followed causing damage to the reserve.

4.Under SWT supervision, the BMC are permitted to carry out shellac rock treatment to repair any damage to the rock surface caused by climbing on designated climbing routes. 

 

Climber/Boulderer Agreement:

As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following:

1.Climbing/bouldering is allowed from Close to You to Thin Layback, from Mosquito to More Cake for Me, from Yew Crack to Fandango and from Optical Racer to Portcullis inclusive. Climbing/bouldering outside these areas is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here (Note: discussions are still taking place as to the area between the car park and the A26 and for the time being this area will remain closed for climbing/bouldering).

2.Climbing/bouldering by organised groups is not permitted. 

3.Use of chalk or other substitutes is prohibited on all climbs/boulder-problems. 

4.On site signage will be followed indicting which climbs are open or closed, even if this contradicts with guidebook information.

5.Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds , take care only to remove loose sand and debris. 

6.The rock at the top of the block above the car park (Equilibrium Wall etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings).

Rockfax Description
Originally done as a f7B boulder problem. Climb the juggy lower wall to a poor horizontal rail. Mount this and finish by tackling the upper face on slopers and pockets, moving left to reach a large flake near the top. Due to the soft nature of the rock, many choose to attempt this on a top-rope. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The impending wall to the right of Hanging Crack.

Start up the vertical crack feature to a reasonable horizontal break. Move over the break onto the face. Utilise pockets, slopers and undercuts on the face to reach the twin pocket and large flake on the left. Use the flake and move up and slightly right to finish. Demand all witnesses to hail the king of The Watchtower

Ticklists

Southern Sandstone *** Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
yoshi.h 16 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Clear hold break in right crimp in middle of problem. Much harder than previously suggested now.
Show beta
βeta: Clear hold break in right crimp in middle of problem. Much harder than previously suggested now.

Logged Ascents

19 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Eridge Green Rocks

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 7 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cool Bananas

Grade: 7c+ ***
(High Rocks)

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