Rockfax Description
An indifferent start but a good top pitch on this immaculate wall.
1) 4b, 25m. As for Scratch P1 and 2.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb the thin crack in the wall between Scratch and Scratch Arete to the overhang. Move up left below the next step in the roof and pull up and right over the roof via a thin crack. Continue up to join Scratch to finish. © Rockfax

Hidden 17/Nov/17 2nd O/S
BC 09/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

P2. Unintentionally followed the Itch alternative. Goes at e1 5a/b foot this.

JackM92 08/Nov/17 AltLd
Graeme Hammond 23/Aug/17 Lead

Couldn't work out were to go through the roof, where were the cracks? Traversed right onto Scratch Arête in the end which was had enough to get to. Shame must return. First crack was fantastic.

with Chris Hindley
Rory Shaw 02/Jul/17 2nd rpt

Top Pitch only

with MacMan, wi11
redjerry 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Robert Fielding
Gympaul 21/Apr/17 Lead
with Dale
harold walmsley 17/Apr/17 2nd rpt

Climbed probably too far to the L on a previous ascent. This time managed to do it over on the R (i.e. properly) when seconding but it was pretty hard (more like 5c?). After the initial flake it is probably a better pitch to do the variation to Itch .

with Mark Hounslea
wi11 26/Mar/17 AltLd rpt
with Jo Boyd
Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Flavio 09/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with A Stranger
Hidden 22/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/16 AltLd
George_Surf 24/Aug/16 Lead dog

the flake crack up to the roof is nice enough but the moves over using the thin crack are difficult. Felt at least hard 5c to me, good micro wire protects but if you climb it like the guide says (using the thin crack) then its at least e2 5c. It seems as though lots of other people climb the alternative finish to itch, a few feet to the left (on massive holds) at e1 5b. Fell off the crux twice and i only just about scraped it 3rd go, desperate finger lock and bad feet

rachelpearce01 24/Aug/16 2nd O/S

The boys dogged it, I found it pretty easy. Used to 2 crystal crimps to get me over the overhang. The littl crack to start was ok, bit tiring and th rest was fineS

Pinguville 24/Aug/16 2nd dog

climbing up the layback was strenny but fine , rest under the roof , unfortunately had to hang around for some time pumping my left arm out , trying to get the micro wire george had fallen on several times out , so came to the moves and was pretty usless , ended up finishing out the itch variation up and left of the small crack where the holds are much bigger and easier

GazzerM55 18/Jun/16 TR
with Jock Andrews
JoeCoxson 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

The steep crack is great climbing, and there's a good-ish rest before the overlap; so good I hung there for at least 15mins before working out the moves.

Wendy Watthews 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Cracking lead by Joe especially after all the pump accumulated from trying to go the wrong way.

with joe c
wi11 31/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Elfyn
Ollie B 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with W.Calvert
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

p2. good route, not easy. going over the overlap looked hard until you pulled in to the crack and found the jugs on the left.

with Roisin
ashtond6 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S

awesome valley style climbing!

BareBears 28/Sep/14 2nd
with Dale
Dale ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S

After climbing scratch arête we abbed to the start of this. A very very good climb but a bit eliminate. Unfortunately you can go round the crux on the overhang but this is a variation to itch. If you stick to the thin crack above the overhang its hard I thought 5c, But E2 is fair as the gear is very good.

with Dan
Dizz 18/May/13 2nd

Blame falling off on having food poisoning!

with EJ
pauldrew 03/Mar/13 Lead
Dave Rumney 03/Mar/13 2nd
air ??/2013 AltLd O/S
Bruce Houston ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 02/May/12 Lead
with Dan
dan ely 02/May/12 2nd
with owian
quarrtman1 23/Sep/11 2nd
with dave
Keendan 06/Jul/11 Lead β

Lead with instructor ascending on a rope next to me.

joeydurkin 16/Jun/11 2nd
with Andy w
centurion05 16/Jun/11 Lead
with joey
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Andrew Barker 04/Jun/11 2nd

After doing the first pitch of Itch. Really good. Wasn't really sure about where to cross the roof - ended up going through the crack just to the right of the alternative finish to Itch which felt pretty hard.

with Si
Speeddemonsi 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/11 2nd O/S
Jonas Paulsson 14/May/11 2nd

Nice flake in the beginning, nice wove over the roof.

belay bunny turned bad 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jonas
Owain Llewelyn 27/Mar/11 Lead

Brill clean pitch

with Dad
Misha 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Abbed in to do this after warming up on Scratch (which was very enjoyable). Pleasant slab scrack climbing to the roof, which thankfully proved to be a lot easier than it looked (used the hand rail rather than the crack). Not sure why it gets E2 in the '89 guide as nothing particularly hard. Perhaps a bit bold towards the bottom.

with Richard
Alex Mason 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Had no idea what this was just liked the look of it. Climbed the awesome layback crack then went up the groove left of the roof (as for itch?) good pitch.

harold walmsley 03/Mar/11 Lead O/S

The guidebook description is rubbish. The top of the layback crack is at the LH end of the roof. If you then moved down and R as stated in the guide you would end up well below the roof in the middle of the slab, not in a position to pull over the roof. Instead move up then R onto the upper slab. Amendment; oops: sorry guidebook team. Did the variation finish to Itch by mistake

with Colin Struthers
Hidden 07/May/10 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ??/2010 -
Helen23 07/Aug/09 2nd

Last pitch of this gained via Mangoletsi. Go back and lead this - it's amazing! Fantastic flake crack with smeary feet, quartzy nobbles and big roof!

with Plas y Brenin (Dave Evans)
Brown ?/Jul/02 2nd O/S
with Alex
kev davies ??/2000 -
pete johnson 12/Mar/95 2nd
with Andy Robinson, Bob Allen
Martin Bennett 03/Jul/93 -
with MT
Bob ??/1990 -
Melok 07/Sep/84 Lead O/S

Cef eds on belay.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
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Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
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