Rockfax Description
A fine route up a prominent crack.
1) 4a, 20m. Start up the rib as for Holloway/Crocodillo.
2) 4a, 12m. Traverse up and left over ledges and spikes to reach a spike belay below the left arete.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb the blunt rib to below a groove/crack in the arete. Follow this to a bulge and move right over this to a ledge. Escape up and left to belay off a tree. © Rockfax

Matt Harmon 08/Oct/17 AltLd O/S

With Sam Clarke. Led P1+2, p3 was surprisingly tricky in places but big holds never far away

Jack_Clinch 08/Oct/17 AltLd
Hidden 26/Sep/17 Lead
dkd 07/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with karly54
karly54 07/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul/17 2nd
foostu4 26/Jun/17 2nd rpt
webby2203 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Matty Kerr
dr_botnik 27/May/17 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 of the HVS, Neil got short changed on the second pitch and I landed the third. Good but inobvious climbing. The moves felt quite easy once you worked them out, not one to panic on.

with neil
admackie 27/May/17 AltLd
Ardo 27/May/17 AltLd O/S

Me-p2, Rob-p1,p3. He's right, I wuz robbed.

with Rob
Dizz 09/Apr/17 AltLd
with Cath luke
Alex Riley 08/Apr/17 AltLd
with Rene
Harry Ellis 05/Apr/17 AltLd

Led 1&2 together. 3 was hard, HVS 5a but v good

with james gibson
Hidden 27/Mar/17 AltLd
paulsross 26/Mar/17 2nd

Top pitch is steep and sustained - more like HVS. Well protected, Liz emptied her rack into the cracks.

fizzychewitt 26/Mar/17 AltLd

I led the crux pitch. Hard getting established in crack/groove as felt quite unbalanced and strenuous above. Good climb though and I totally laced it :)

MoWalker3 26/Mar/17 -

A bit unsure we were indeed on this but absorbing climbing. oh and it might be wise to replace the tat on the tree with some new stuff..

with Aidan
The Grist 01/Nov/16 Lead O/S
James Worthington 17/Oct/16 Lead

Abbed down to start after climbing Holloway.

with Ewan, Rhys
Ewan Russell 17/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Keiran O'Mahony 15/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
TCarrick 15/Oct/16 -
LDudill 07/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Led all 3 pitches. P1 and 2 mediocre at best. Pitch 3 good but hard at vs, HVS 5a?? Also rock fax description seems right but line on topo appears to be e1 to left???

Hidden 26/Aug/16 AltLd
timreynolds 11/Jun/16 AltLd
mreynolds 11/Jun/16 AltLd

Lead pitch 2. Dogged third pitch.

EllieWoods 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led last pitch

petecallaghan 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Dazluke2000 04/Jun/16 Lead
emgroves 24/Apr/16 AltLd
joedean 24/Apr/16 AltLd
with Emily Groves
Hidden 22/Apr/16 AltLd
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
nodwas 25/Oct/15 AltLd
Matt Schwarz 25/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

chirs led 1 + 3, stiff 2nd pitch

Steve Shorrock 13/Sep/15 Lead
katiet 13/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/15 AltLd
Pixie-Andy 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

3rd pitch felt tough, difficult to place gear up crack as off balanced positions, so pump came on stronger as tension mounted. Once over the midway bulge i though it was a steady, easy 4c. But the start will feel like 5a for many and especially those over 80kg! ;-)

with Jo Boyd
rushy11111918 03/Aug/15 Lead
with Ron Rees Davies
Ron Rees Davies 03/Aug/15 2nd
with Matt
foostu4 11/Jul/15 AltLd
mrginna 11/Jul/15 AltLd

2nd pitch

with Stu P
Hidden 05/Jul/15 2nd
Karlos 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Quality route. Nice rib on P1, might as well be linked with P2 since it's such a short traverse. First bit of P3 not as hard as it looks, on good holds, just saps your energy placing gear. Traverse is fine, but the climb up and off the disappearing ledge is a sting in the tail. Felt very steep, and just after I'd landed the hidden jug with my left hand, I barn door'ed off, and had to commit with both hands but no feet. With no going back (only off) I did a chin up and managed to make another jug off left, and pulled out into the corner. Elvis turned up, whilst I topped out onto the scrappy top. LOST - long extender, red/silver snap gates, 400mmx8mm black/white dyneema.

with Ante, Adam B
Katie S 08/Jun/15 AltLd
joedoherty 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 30/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Mr Tickle 30/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

ATTENTION To get to the foot of this climb, go up P1 of Holloway until you reach the (2014) abseil station. Traverse left and belay at a clump of oak trees (big spikes here) before the ground drops away again. Climb directly up from the trees to reach the foot of a corner of rusty coloured rock with lots of obvious holds and ledges: this is Alcatraz. There is a crack at the back of this corner, but it isn't "obvious" from a distance. This climb is technical and submits to patience, observation and good footwork. You can place excellent runners from safe positions all the way up. Rushing and using brute strength will probably result in a fall. There is an abseil station at the top, but the ropes were showing their age in September 2014, so bring some cord to back it up.

Ray Sparks 06/Sep/14 2nd
rbharries 05/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

what a good route. Miked went offline for the last pitch, was really awesome!

with karolinka, Mikey G
keith Lonsdale 20/Jul/12 2nd
andybirtwistle 20/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Liam FLeming 18/Aug/11 AltLd
with paul james
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
JasonV 07/May/10 2nd

the pull over into the niche quite tricky

with Phil
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Steve Waters, Mynydd 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S

We approached this by taking the first pitch of Holloway. I led Alcatraz and found it pretty tough. I hung around for ages below the niche trying to fiddle in some wires. The pull over was far from positive but it went OK. Good route.

with Colin Maddison
ritchierich 07/Dec/08 Lead rpt

Poor Wyn fell off leading this so I took over,got lost on the route trying to find niche so escaped off left via Bucket Rider,a tree and old tat before it got dark :(

with Wyn Price
AndyGodber75 24/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with Henry and Gav
ritchierich 08/Oct/06 Lead
with Bob Dickson
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Clucky 04/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Paul Dickson
Hidden ??/2002 -
chrishedgehog 15/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
kev davies ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 2nd
craig h 07/Nov/98 AltLd O/S
with Rick W and Janet Hannah
Hidden 03/Feb/98 Lead
five ?/Feb/98 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Paul Boardman 18/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
Hidden 28/May/94 Lead
nai ??/1994 AltLd
Budge ?/Nov/93 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates
Hidden 20/Jun/93 2nd
andrew300169 19/Apr/92 AltLd O/S
with Pom
mattnuttall 31/Mar/91 2nd


with Alan Holden
Hidden 27/Dec/90 2nd
tmawer 25/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with Andy
michael burrows 25/Mar/88 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
Martin Bennett 01/Jun/86 -
with Bill McRae, MT
Melok ??/1984 -
Ian Jones ??/1983 -
Neil McA 07/May/82 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 13/Mar/82 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
GordonHart ??/1982 Lead O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/80 2nd
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
kjacks ??/1978 Lead
with John Cousins
Hidden 02/Jul/77 Lead
Bolt Phobia 27/Nov/76 AltLd
with Rob Collister
Mike Owen 14/Nov/76 2nd β
with John Roberts
Steve Lewis 03/Apr/76 AltLd
with sharpie
Bolt Phobia 29/Jan/76 Lead
with Kit Spencer
mikej 16/Jul/74 Lead
with Mike Byles
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 18
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set