300m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent and slightly harder alternative to Via Maria. The rock is generally sound and less polished than its neighbour, and the climbing is varied and quite exposed at times. Another justifiably popular route.
Begin in a yellow corner-crack, 10m right of the gully which separates the subsidiary pillar of Via Maria from the main buttress.
1) IV, 35m. Climb the corner-crack on its right side, then continue more easily, trending right to a good stance.
2) IV+, 35m. Ignore a crack above and instead move right to a corner. Climb this direct, passing a niche on the left, and exit right to reach the large ledge.
3) V-, 30m. Move right to reach a ramp which leads back left. Climb this, overcoming a bulge, then follow a narrow chimney to reach a crack system. Climb the left-hand crack and belay below a niche.
4) IV, 30m. Move left along a ledge then climb a well-featured wall direct to reach a small ledge. Move left then continue back right to reach a larger ledge.
5) IV+, 15m. Move left on the ledge then, level with a thread, climb a crack which trends right. Belay below a niche.
6) IV, 20m. Climb direct through the niche on loose rock then traverse right below an overhang to a stance on the right of the arete.
7) III+, 35m. Climb a series of flakes direct to reach a niche on the right. Continue direct to a short corner and climb this to reach the top of a small pillar.
8) II, 55m. Move up then traverse left over ledges to a chimney. Climb the chimney direct to reach the plateau with a large cemented peg.
9) As for the final pitch of Via Maria. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This route starts about 20m to the right of the classic Via Maria. Its a little harder and more sustained and is recommended as a grand day out. The rock is very good apart from on pitch 3 where it is suspect. With climbing at V we thought the HVS grade is merited. It appears in 'Mid Grade Trad Rock - Western Dolomites 1 route 15 - Emiliano Zorzi'.

Approach is as as for Via Maria and about 1 hour walk from Passo Pordoi. You finish on easy scrambling as for that route at the cable car station with an easy walk off (or lift down!).

Aldo Gross, G Momoli 03/Sep/1963

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Alpenglow 28 Aug Show βeta
βeta: As Rockfax guidebook, found P5 about 15m long instead of 25m. I stepped off the belay ledge left for about 5m and went straight up the crack where the tat was. P8 (long II traverse) was 55m not 35m!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As Rockfax guidebook, found P5 about 15m long instead of 25m. I stepped off the belay ledge left for about 5m and went straight up the crack where the tat was. P8 (long II traverse) was 55m not 35m!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
jaamez 15 Sep Lead Got off route after P6 (couldn't see flakes). Rejoined at P9 of via Maria after some terrible rope drag. A long day out
Got off route after P6 (couldn't see flakes). Rejoined at P9 of via Maria after some terrible rope drag. A long day out
Alpenglow 28 Aug Lead O/S Lead all 9 pitches as Rockfax. Some great climbing on route with big exposure. P3 (crux) a bit loose. Some steep and run-out climbing on P4-6. Easier climbing P7 and above.
Lead all 9 pitches as Rockfax. Some great climbing on route with big exposure. P3 (crux) a bit loose. Some steep and run-out climbing on P4-6. Easier climbing P7 and above.
Norman_P_W 5 Jul AltLd
with Bob M
with Bob M
Bob M 5 Jul AltLd Excellent sustained climbing for the first 6 pitches. Although the hardest moves were at the start of pitch 3, I found pitches 4 to 6 more nerve-racking - steep balance climbing with plenty of holds but little protection and tricky route finding, where there was always a sense of relief to find the belay ring at the end of each pitch. Top half is easier climbing and scrambling but it still feels a long way to the final belay on the cable car station.
Excellent sustained climbing for the first 6 pitches. Although the hardest moves were at the start of pitch 3, I found pitches 4 to 6 more nerve-racking - steep balance climbing with plenty of holds but little protection and tricky route finding, where there was always a sense of relief to find the belay ring at the end of each pitch. Top half is easier climbing and scrambling but it still feels a long way to the final belay on the cable car station.
will_benfold 15 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P3, P6 and P9+scramble+chimney
with Teshil, mihai
Led P3, P6 and P9+scramble+chimney
with Teshil, mihai
Teshil 15 Sep, 2018 AltLd
PatrickBoothroyd 15 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Did as an alternative to Via Maria, as it was too busy, great route, the last pitch with tourists looking down at you and the cable car so close is a little surreal
with NigelBoothroyd
Did as an alternative to Via Maria, as it was too busy, great route, the last pitch with tourists looking down at you and the cable car so close is a little surreal
with NigelBoothroyd
hannahlee15 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitches 4, 5, 7, 8 and scramble to cable car station. Group got slight lost at pitch 4, luckily found extra belay rings.
with Dave Adler
Led pitches 4, 5, 7, 8 and scramble to cable car station. Group got slight lost at pitch 4, luckily found extra belay rings.
with Dave Adler
Kate2017 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd
JoeGross 29 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S A great day out, left the car park 0745, started climbong 0900 and topped out at 1630, pretty casual pace with some challenging route finding on pitch 5. Low in the grade, more slab than overhang, medium exposure, bomber belays. Only take 1 bag don't leave one at the base of the route.
A great day out, left the car park 0745, started climbong 0900 and topped out at 1630, pretty casual pace with some challenging route finding on pitch 5. Low in the grade, more slab than overhang, medium exposure, bomber belays. Only take 1 bag don't leave one at the base of the route.
Gawyllie 24 Jul, 2018 Lead
with john meechan
with john meechan
Tony Roberts 30 May, 2018 2nd O/S With the Bernard variant. My hardest mountain day ever.
with James Roberts, Etienne Bernard
With the Bernard variant. My hardest mountain day ever.
with James Roberts, Etienne Bernard
rossunitt 21 Aug, 2017 AltLd G/U Missed the last lift back - slowest buffalo on the route - tricky rout finding between pitch 4 and 6.
Missed the last lift back - slowest buffalo on the route - tricky rout finding between pitch 4 and 6.
Hidden 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
emma1987 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd Soloed last pitches
with lukey13
Soloed last pitches
with lukey13
cissacarvalho 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd
beardy mike ??, 2017 -
CraigOsborne ?Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Went pretty off route
Went pretty off route
Hidden 18 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
fuzzysheep01 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Pierce Ferris
with Pierce Ferris
Hidden 16 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S
Louvet 15 Aug, 2013 -
with Tarquin
with Tarquin
Tarquin 15 Aug, 2013 -
with Louvet, Jockey
with Louvet, Jockey
brianrunner 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd This is a fine exposed route. A good 1st pitch up a crack. A second easier pitch with one harder move. A loose and a little scary 3rd. 4,5 and 6 have excellent steep climbing on good rock where you pick your line. On pitch 6, we traversed right as in the original route and that is easy to follow. Great day out.
with martina
This is a fine exposed route. A good 1st pitch up a crack. A second easier pitch with one harder move. A loose and a little scary 3rd. 4,5 and 6 have excellent steep climbing on good rock where you pick your line. On pitch 6, we traversed right as in the original route and that is easy to follow. Great day out.
with martina
conradallen 8 Sep, 1990 Lead
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set