200m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A justifiably popular climb, which unfortunately means that queues are the norm rather than the exception. However the logical line, solid rock, bomber protection and excellent exposure combined with such an accessible grade make it well worth the wait. The grade can be lowered to IV+ by using the first two pitches of Delle Guide.
There are numerous possible starts to the route. The original is in a loose yellow gully on the left. Since the rock is quite shattered the more common starts are a corner just right of the gully (V-, recommended start as described below); a series of cracks a few metres further right (V+). The easiest start is further right below a ramp of grey rock (cemented belay ring, shared start with Delle Guide) bringing the full route grade down to IV+.
1) V-, 40m. Starting 8m right of the gully, climb a corner-crack then move left at the top to a cemented belay.
2) IV, 40m. Move left from the belay, climb two parallel cracks then continue to the right of a flake to reach a deep yellow niche on the arete itself.
3) IV+, 30m. Exit the niche on the right and climb a corner-crack, then continue direct to a good stance on the arete.
4) IV, 55m. Follow the arete (intermediate belay possible at 30m) to reach a ledge.
5) IV-, 30m. Continue direct from the ledge, keeping near but just left of the arete, to a stance on a small pulpit.
6) III, 40m. Climb direct then slightly left up easier ground to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Cracking route - well protected - bolted belays, bolts/pegs on most hard moves. Reach the start from either the Passo de Falzarego (traverse along the old military road beneath the path up to the Piccolo Laguzoi) or from the cafe further down towards Cortina. The climb either follows the chimney (harder and a falling rock funnel) or the face (well bolted). It's just about posible to do the first two pitches in one (reaching the arete) on a 60m rope, better, in terms of rope drag, to split these.

Ticklists: NTU Climbing - Van Club, Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

betathief 20/Oct/17 AltLd
sgl 15/Sep/17 Lead
with Susie
Hidden 13/Sep/17 AltLd
TheSingularity 07/Sep/17 Lead dnf

Lead the first pitch. The Rockfax guide is terrible and had Emma climbing in the wrong direction though for pitch 2. This threw her off, so I lead pitch 2 then decision was made to abseil off from there. Guide should read (imo) 1) Start 8m right of gully, climb direct to corner. Exit corner on the left, and traverse left until you see 5 or 6 cemented pitons above you. Belay from there. 2) Climb direct from cemented pitons, well bolted up to the crack, trending slightly left. Climb the slab and into the yellow niche above. There is faded red paint indicating route to take.

with Emma
Rooney90 07/Sep/17 2nd
Alex Handley 24/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
merlin138 24/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing on good rock, we'll protected, but run out in places. The 50 m pitch is brilliant, nice exposure and a bit of fun route finding! Well worth the effort.

Abi Chard 18/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Jack Manfredi 08/Aug/17 AltLd
with Dad
Lauradavies23 07/Aug/17 2nd
mikecollins 07/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Did V+ start

rockafunked 03/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Second pitch description should be: start climbing immediately left of the anchor, go up direct trending only slightly left until red paint and a bolt. Surmount this short steep section onto a ledge. From the ledge, climb in the offwidth gully in between the detached flake and the wall, until you reach a deep yellow niche on the arete itself (on your right). One cemented ring for the belay.

malone 29/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jul/17 AltLd
featuresforfeet 11/Jul/17 AltLd
colin milton 01/Jul/17 AltLd

lead P1,3,4 before downpour. Fantastic positions on Arete

with eric milton
Hidden ?/Jul/17 AltLd
Gawyllie 22/Jun/17 Lead
with john meechan, Alan Sewl
Hidden 15/Jun/17 -
Rockley 09/Apr/17 AltLd
ned_85 09/Apr/17 AltLd
scottcoates 02/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with williap
williap 26/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
HP9 24/Sep/16 AltLd

L 2,4,6. Lovely climb. a little bit polished in places and it was very busy.

with Mark Hayes
Giles Eperon 20/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

With Tiss and Dad too. Excellent climb, first pitch wasn't too hard and it just got easier - some route finding issues on Pitch 2.

Charlie Eperon 20/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
PalfreyN 24/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug/16 2nd
MrRiley 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Overall superb but not sure about the Rockfax description and topo on pitch 2 - no hint of parallel cracks and topo takes you into a loose gully before rejoining the arete. Apparently its straight up from the belay via bolts following red paint?!

Debbie Lee 17/Aug/16 AltLd

Obviously a popular route and justifiably so!

haydng 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with RachelG
Tim_C7 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Great climb, not too difficult but just nice climbing.

with Toby D
Oo 26/Jul/16 2nd
with Tim_C7
Wine and climb 25/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with truan
MoWalker3 18/Jul/16 -
with Dan
PilarMartinez 18/Jul/16 AltLd
with juliano
Julesthe1st 18/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
fuzzysheep01 15/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Early start so first on and off the route. Brilliant, exposed arĂȘte with nice varied first couple of pitches. Not as polished as expected.

with Nono
Nono 15/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 09/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
benny_m 09/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, 1st on it and first off it. Queues on all the belays by the afternoon. New rockfax guidebook said go left on the 2nd pitch but go straight up from the shared belay (about 6 pegs/bolts) and follow the red paint. Keep left on the top of pitch 4 for some real exposure

with Su
Hidden 08/Jul/16 AltLd
cdpuk 04/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 2. Moved together P5, 6

kingjam 04/Jul/16 AltLd rpt
RobScarisbrick 04/Jul/16 AltLd
with cdpuk
Hidden ?/Jul/16 Lead
Alessandro Tentori 29/Dec/15 AltLd
with Luca Gasparini
Hidden 12/Dec/15 AltLd
Sebastien Gastaud 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches

with Claire Martin
Hidden 07/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/15 2nd dnf
kirky_p 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
PPP 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Brian
Hidden ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
perrys 27/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Tony Hextall
tombushell 26/Aug/15 AltLd
Stroppy 26/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Nice route

Sam Husband 26/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P3 (which was probably the best pitch).

with Tom, Ed
andyclimber 26/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd, 4th and 6th pitches

brockers 21/Aug/15 AltLd
Steve Perry 21/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

A wonderful route. We took 60m ropes and did the climb in 5 pitches instead of 6. I lead P1 up the corner crack, Kate did P2. I then did P 3 and went another 30m to the intermediate belay on P4. Kate then ran the rest of P4 and all of P5. I finished P6. P1 was the hardest climbing but P3 has no fixed gear or trad gear near the crux if you stick true to the arete. Do it!

cmars89 20/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Mike W ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Batt 27/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

With Cath E and Mark W gate crashing half way up! Good, can go anywhere to start really. We did a nice steep line with bolts. Top ridge is easy and ace. Getting knackered after 6 days climbing!

Hidden 27/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hoyes 27/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
timmyhobby 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches

Hidden 25/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
bobpilgrem 25/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

A busy day, we were only party to do direct start - not as bad as guidebook suggests.Also only party to stick to arete on 3rd pitch - it was very bold with no gear(fixed or otherwise) and about VS 4c . Easier if you climb face on left but it's called the Comici Arete (not line next to arete). Great route and easy descent as per Rock fax guidebook.

jcw ??/2015 -
felixizzy 14/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Mike
beardy mike 14/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing. As other say, a bit vague at the start - we followed a yellow, left facing diedre. The first pitch is the crux but there after it's pretty straightforwards with masses of fixed gear. The descent is a little intimidating but just go over a little saddle just after the summit and descend and you will find pegs and then some huge steel staples. We did the abseil on a 50m rope but only just, but we used the top staple (there are three at different heights. The descent gully in the early season when it's holding snow could I would imagine be fairly spicy but there are bolts for this eventuality.

Hidden 30/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 22/Jul/14 -
kingjam ?/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
ian d f ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Marion
Fran Sgr 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Jay C
Jay C 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Fran S
Roger Cruse 29/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Kris
K Wall ?/Aug/13 Lead
with Martin
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
alicethwaites 19/Jun/13 2nd
tim exley 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Alice lead 3 pitches

with alice
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
RobbieT ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
GeorgeNunn ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Mary dougherty
Pete Pozman 26/Jul/12 2nd
Swotson 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

7 pitches on Torre Piccola di Falzarego. Great climbing in excellent positions. Threads and pitons/cemented bolts. Started on route to the right as recommended by Nadia, snd joined arete after first pitch.

with Ian Athroll
johnpuddephatt 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Matt Ringrose
Will Hunt 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led alternate pitches from P1

Hidden 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jan/12 Solo
Hidden 18/Aug/11 2nd O/S
ben.richards 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
LJC 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
westong 02/Aug/11 AltLd
Harri777 ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with Naomi
NB Pixel ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Harri!
Hidden 21/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
Mike-W-99 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Indirect start due to guidebook ambiguity. Looking back now I think its marked with green paint.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 15/Jul/11 AltLd

Led odd pitches. Lovely route. Guidebook issues: tried 3 different starts none of which seemed safe/right so took alternative easy start. Got back to the car just as the rain started.

with Mike
ricking777 28/Jun/11 AltLd

start 10 meters right of the big crack at top of a broken scree slope,behind the old hospital ruins

Peter Holder 07/Jun/11 AltLd
Griff87 ??/2011 AltLd
brianrunner 11/Sep/10 AltLd

excellent route which can get busy as its so near the road but some brilliant steep and exposed climbing.

with martina
3kidsandanorton 02/Sep/10 AltLd
with Hannah
Hidden 02/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 02/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

1st route of trip. Pleasant enough

with Tash, Ali K
dickie01 30/Jul/10 -

Goes at V- not IV

with Julian King
Elsier 30/Jul/10 AltLd

Great route!

with Michael, Ian
tallthinmonkey 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mhairi Johnston, Rob Leuhman, Josh Plant
Hidden 14/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/10 AltLd
Tarquin 24/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Lev 23/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/09 -
Barry D 29/Jul/09 AltLd
with Trish
whistler 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

really cool route. shame about the crowds.

with Anna
Hidden 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Dunx ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sketch
Anna_wells ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with pete
TiffTiff 11/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom
tbs105 11/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

some really nice climbing, especially on the exposed arete

with Tiff
annakyn 02/Jun/09 AltLd

Led Pitches 2, 4, 5. A bit cold and got stuck behind 3 Italians going very slowly! Abbed off the West 100m rather than normal descent as the gully was full of snow. Brilliant day out.

with Duncan ?
Marq 11/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

MAMAMAM UIAA V+ and 230m in the AC guidebook

Hidden 07/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/08 2nd
Em66 18/Jun/08 2nd
with Mat
tjekel ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Andy Clarke 10/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with MikeW
Hidden 27/Jul/06 AltLd
IanMcC 27/Jul/06 AltLd

Thunderstorm and abseil mayhem on descent

with Jimbo
John HW 21/Jun/06 AltLd
with Cath
DAL 25/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 -
cpoad 14/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Grade lowered to IV+ by doing the first two pitches of Delle Guide. Fantastic route up the arete.

with Clare F
Hidden ?/Jun/05 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
adamwesthead 13/Jun/01 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2,4,6

with Hoult
Martin Bennett 05/Jul/88 -
with John Considine
Rob Davies 11/Aug/87 AltLd

Continued via upper tower

with Mike Papworth
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High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set