Rockfax Description
A different kind of route for Tremadog with a slightly adventurous feel. Start below a recess at the far right-hand end of the buttress reached by the vegetated path below the crag.
1) 4b, 35m. Climb up to a right-facing corner. Follow this over a steep bulge on good holds to some ledges. Continue to a tree-filled gully above (possible belay). Climb the gully to a big tree a little below a traverse line out right.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb up then make a delicate traverse out right to the arete which is climbed to the top. Direct up the corner is Hogmanay Direct, HVS but there is some loose rock.
Abseil off but take great care not to get your ropes stuck in the trees. © Rockfax

jennifer.hack 12/Aug AltLd
magicmartin 03/Jun Lead dnf

Will need to come back for this when theres more light!

with Wayne Preston
Tim Francis 21/Apr Lead

Did the Canadian start... direct from the block then straight up right. this is not HS! Original route seems very over grown so I made something up instead. Didn't dog - just faffed and enjoyed moments of really good climbing! Partners experience however can be summed up by putting her hand through a dead baby raven. WARNING:- TOP FLAKE IS EXTREMELY LOOSE. I think this will come off imminently. Traversed right to avoid.

chrisallan 15/Apr AltLd O/S
Harry Ellis 05/Apr AltLd

Bold first pitch

with james gibson
Hidden 04/Apr 2nd
paulsross 26/Mar AltLd

Went the wrong way at the start so had to downclimb and ab down for gear later. Liz took over and I lead top pitch. First pitch is good when correct start is found.

fizzychewitt 26/Mar AltLd

Seems like I did a different climb to most others who commented on this climb. We did have problems with finding the start and Paul initially went right to the blank roof but I thought it was very good and though the rock looked suspect I found some good gear placements. We had no trouble pulling the ropes

James Worthington 17/Oct/16 AltLd

Led first pitch. Spent ages trying to find a belay, think I went too far right. Ewan led direct finish.

with Ewan, Rhys
katiet 24/Sep/16 AltLd
Sardien 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead
stephheeley ?/Jul/16 2nd dog
EllieWoods 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and p2 together

petecallaghan 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
emgroves 15/May/16 AltLd
emgroves 24/Apr/16 -
Lotte Stuer 24/Apr/16 AltLd
with Iona
joedean ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
evhall 13/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

p1+p2 in order to get back to our stuck ropes on falcon

with Tim Bray
Hidden 30/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
mky77 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Jenny Hall 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Louis
martintom 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Lesley Smith 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S
carl_123 31/May/15 AltLd O/S
Tarquin 31/May/15 -
Jmpollard 16/Nov/14 AltLd
Hidden 16/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
KeithW 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Adventurous climbing with brambles, a large nest (unoccupied) and some loose rock. Superb 5b finish and an excellent clean ab straight back down. Not for the faint hearted though.

with Manky Steve, Helen C
SuperLee1985 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

I would advise steering clear of this route. No idea why it gets 2 stars. Horrendously overgrown and covered in brambles and some weird muddy slime at the bottom. The approach alone took a lot of effort and there was not really any clear path. The first pitch was actually good fun and had nice moves, but the quality of the rock was poor which meant I had little trust in my gear. Belayed at the big ledge and brought Sam up who was immediately gripped my his fear of heights. I brought Stevie up and our plan was for me to climb up another 10m or so to where the guide book implied there was a decent sized, tree filled ledge where Sam would not feel quite so exposed. The next section featured an ok chimney and then 10m of pretty poor climbing and poor rock whilst enduring the stench of a nearby owls nest (unpopulated). Then there was a brief but enjoyable tricky slab leading to a large block belay. It was obvious that this belay was even smaller and more exposed then the last one and i realised Sam would not be able to cope with it. I decided by best bet would be to climb all the way to the top and belay him from there so he would not have to wait around on small ledges. Unfortunately as i thought i was only going up 10m or so and then stevie was going to lead the final pitch, I didn't take my gear back from the first pitch. I got up to the final section and had pretty much used all the gear I had. I had also forgotten that the guidebook said to traverse out left and though that the finish was direct. This looked HARD (funny that with it being HVS) and i didn't fancy climbing it without any gear. I went back down to the block belay and brought Stevie up with my gear (after he got the ropes terribly tangled at the first ledge and had to un-tie to sort them out). We then got in another tangle which took a while to sort out before I continued the lead (after Stevie informed me to traverse out right). The final traverse was actually very good, exposed moves as there are little in the way of handholds. I finally got to the top, by this point Sam had been Sitting on the ledge being scared shitless of the height/exposure for over 2 hours. I decided to bring sam up first, leaving Stevie on the block belay so he could offer sam advice as he came up. Sam got to the final traverse section and then was to terrified to committ to the moves out right. I then had to bring Stevie up with the plan being to do an assisted hoist to get sam up. But then stevie couldn't remember how to do the hoist. we ended up both putting sam on belay on different ropes and hauling inch by inch as he took his weight off the ropes. But even with sam at the top our ordeal wasn't over. We were dubious that our ropes would reach the bottom for an ab down and sam's nerves wouldn't have coped anyway. We decided to walk down but there was no decernable path of any kind and we spend a good hour trudging through pretty thick brambles which ripped our legs to shreads before we finally found the decent. Overall this route took us 6 hours from leaving the campsite to start it to finally arriving back at camp.

StevieLee 21/Jun/14 2nd
SamT1 21/Jun/14 2nd dog

Not great fun, hauled up last few metres due to bravery failure.

Hidden 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
caradoc 15/Mar/14 AltLd

No descent described in the guide and I didn't fancy the abseil, it had snagged ropes written all over it so we scrambled up the crag to the fence. Horrendous, brambles, holly, no path, one of the worst descents I have done. Pleasant climb, pity about getting on and off it.

with Matt H.
climb the peak 12/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 10/Aug/13 AltLd dnf
J.Atkins 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

lead P1+3

lithos 06/May/13 AltLd

P1, interesting if unlikely at the grade, few loose bits but very different to your usual Tremadoig fare

with graham b, donal
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1, C led 2+3 in one. Interesting route, very different from typical Tremadog fare. Brilliant first pitch up unlikely terrain, steep with massive holds and interesting route finding. Second half was let down somewhat by the big tree.

with Carmen
Hidden ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1, 2, and 3 to the tree just before the traverse in one big pitch. Ropes got stuck on abseil, and it was hard to find the top to retrieve them, lots of bramble cuts. Worth it though as a really good route.

with Julian Sorrell, Maia
Hidden 01/Apr/13 2nd O/S
simeclimb68 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Ed Mtchell
edmitchell 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Simon Palmer
Hidden 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
AmandaJG 23/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1, a few hollow blocks, but not too unnerving.

with Dave
Mark Young ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Helen
cballard ??/2012 -
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
jordan taylor ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Nov/11 AltLd
Hidden 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
onlyfoddington 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Lead the first two pitches in one (with massive rope drag), found the traverse very scary even with the use of the tree until I found a low handhold.

Liam FLeming 18/Aug/11 AltLd
with paul james
prwalker 07/Aug/11 AltLd

Led pitch 1. Jayne led 2+3 to top, including poorly protected traverse. Good strenuous climbing on poor gear with slate like feel in places.

with Jayne Davies, Ali Hutton
arctic_jen 02/Jul/11 2nd

OMG worst abseil EVER (I truly suck at abseiling & then the ropes got stuck...)

with Dan
dpmUK 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jen
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 28/May/11 AltLd O/S
kim.mulji 10/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Seb led first two pitches by mistake, only meaning to lead first pitch! This meant I thought I was leading the second pitch, when in fact I was climbing the HVS 5b direct finish! I thought it was hard because of my hangover! There is a loose large slab above the belay on this pitch, which rocks, and doesn't appear that safe. On this pitch, I rested on a piece of gear, after getting in three pieces of gear, but would have down-climbed to rest if I had known I was on the HVS finish! A pull on the loose slab, and some finger jamming and lay-backing got me to the top of this pitch, sweating, and pleased to be there. OK looking abseil ring on some OK looking rope at the top allowed us to get down quickly!

thecurlyone 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
mariannekhoo 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led the first two pitches together as one, Ben led the final pitch. Amazing climb.

with Ben Ram
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
shaymarriott ??/2011 -
mikehenesy 10/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Pretty well summed up by the previous comments. Little confidence in the slaty rock for climbing on or pro. Did the first two pitches in one. 20ft below the belay and it's 'proper' rock and the serious feel of the climb disappears. Wouldn't be much fun if your confidence is low.

with Dickie
Hidden 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
JasonV 09/May/10 AltLd

Good climb - difficult start on what feel like quite delicate flakey holds

with Phil
craig h 02/May/10 AltLd dnf
with Janet Hannah
justin burgoyne ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden 01/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Karlos 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

First pitch feels intimidating due to quality of the rock and angle of all of the ledges. Look out for the peg round corner on the right at first belay. WARNING: Flake in the corner of the third pitch (of the variant) is loose and could come off and take out the belayer.

with Ben
rich_greeny 27/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Only the 1st and 2nd pitches. Ab'ed off the tree on the third pitch as we were time constrained by our course and practicing skills.

with Toby Pitts-Tucker
fizzychewitt 07/Jun/08 AltLd
with Colin
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
gareth scott borthwick 07/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Heddwyn lead the firs two pitches and i lead the third

Hidden 24/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Nigel R Lewis 23/Jun/07 AltLd
with Tyrone saunders
Ing 16/Jun/07 2nd
with Hal and James
halhorner 16/Jun/07 AltLd
with James Shand, Ingrid Ferguson
Keith Jones 16/Jun/07 2nd
with David
Matt Tranter ??/2007 -
fran04 ??/2007 2nd
mikelaing ??/2006 -
abercolin ?/May/05 AltLd
Simon Palmer ?/May/05 -
with Colin Riggs
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd
Hidden ??/2005 -
Ratfeeder 23/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

pitch 3 led

with Phil
Neil ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/02 -
Hidden ??/2002 -
auld al ?/May/01 AltLd O/S
MartinN 11/Jun/00 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 & 3

chrishedgehog 10/Mar/00 AltLd O/S
with Dan Bailey
kev davies ??/2000 -
timmy-ts ??/2000 -
Hidden 31/May/99 2nd O/S
kitkat78 ?/Feb/98 2nd
with Ben S
Ian Archer 23/Jun/97 AltLd

nice little traverse at the top

with Danny Hale
Paul Boardman 18/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
five ?/Apr/96 AltLd O/S
with TW
iskra2000 11/May/95 Lead

David had not climbed with placed protection before.

with David ? (French)
Budge ?/Nov/93 AltLd O/S
with Mike Oates
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Judy Ling Wong
babymoac 25/Apr/93 2nd
with Big Steve
Iain Thow 08/Nov/92 Lead
with Pram Singh
timreynolds 22/Jun/91 Lead
with Paul Moon, Jason King
andrew300169 ??/1991 Lead
with Pom
Hidden 27/Dec/90 AltLd
conradallen 03/Jun/90 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden ?/Sep/86 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/May/86 AltLd
Melok ??/1984 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
uphillnow ??/1980 Lead

Took client up it

ewar woowar ??/1980 Lead
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Bob M ?/Apr/78 -
with Nick Sheriff
Bolt Phobia 25/Feb/76 Solo
with John Broadwell
kjacks ??/1976 AltLd
with Lol Fletcher
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
jon 10/Feb/73 Lead
with Elaine
Tom V ??/1973 -
pneame 15/May/72 -
tapley 05/Apr/71 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
auldscotal ??/1971 AltLd O/S
with Bangor Outdoor post grad folk
mikej 12/Apr/67 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Hidden 21/Aug/66 AltLd
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High VS
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High HS
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High S
Mid S
Low S
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High 4c
Mid 4c
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High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
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Style of ascent
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