Rockfax Description
An excellent combination that gives a great way across the slab combining the amazing main pitch of Concrete Chimney, with the last pitch of Dream... Start by abseiling down to belay above the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point.
1) 5b, 55m. Move up and left across the ledges to just right of the arete. Above and left is an incipient crack, gain this and follow it to a steepening, which coincides with larger holds on bubbly rock. Move through the weirdness to ledges that lead up and left to the same often-busy belay of Dream....
2) 4c, 40m. As for Dream... © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An excellent combination that gives a great way across the slab combining the amazing main pitch of Concrete Chimney, with the last pitch of Dream... Start by abseiling down to belay above the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point.
1) 5b, 55m. Move up and left across the ledges to just right of the arete. Above and left is an incipient crack, gain this and follow it to a steepening, which coincides with larger holds on bubbly rock. Move through the weirdness to ledges that lead up and left to the same often-busy belay of Dream....
2) 4c, 40m. As for Dream...

Ticklists

The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Showcase Britain & Ireland

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 5 Aug Lead
Hidden 20 Jul 2nd
Hidden 20 Jul Lead
robgixer 14 Jul Lead O/S
CharleyAnn 14 Jul 2nd
bentawney7 15 Jun AltLd O/S
Jamesd9090 15 Jun AltLd O/S Pitches 2 and 3. Led pitch 3.
Pitches 2 and 3. Led pitch 3.
davidibex 15 Jun AltLd O/S
SJPowderham1 15 Jun AltLd O/S
lanky 20 May AltLd From the ledges as tide was up. Led p3
with Rich
From the ledges as tide was up. Led p3
with Rich
Chris Reid 23 Mar AltLd O/S
with Rupert McBain
with Rupert McBain
Hidden 19 Nov, 2018 AltLd rpt
Hamish Frost 19 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Sep, 2018 AltLd
gjd 24 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Started at top of p1 of Wen. Led next pitch
with Nevil
Started at top of p1 of Wen. Led next pitch
with Nevil
Andy Moles 9 Sep, 2018 AltLd
with Tess
with Tess
Hidden 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Sardien 29 Jun, 2018 2nd rpt I realised Sproglet's still too young for this climb
with nawface
I realised Sproglet's still too young for this climb
with nawface
SimonWooden 25 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Mark led Concrete Chimney pitch. Roasting day!
with Mark Lewis
Mark led Concrete Chimney pitch. Roasting day!
with Mark Lewis
CraigOsborne 13 May, 2018 AltLd O/S lead the dream pitch, definitely lived up to the considerable hype
lead the dream pitch, definitely lived up to the considerable hype
Hidden 30 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
rowlandh ?Apr, 2018 AltLd
with shah
with shah
shah ?Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
Whitmoreaa 5 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf Ran out of time, too many excuses to list. Escaped using ab rope. Off the crag, by about midnight. Will be back to try again when my ego has healed
with richy85
Ran out of time, too many excuses to list. Escaped using ab rope. Off the crag, by about midnight. Will be back to try again when my ego has healed
with richy85
richy85 5 Oct, 2017 2nd dnf
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 2nd
Adam_42 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Dave recommended this as the best way to access the money pitch on Dream of White Horses. Fantastic climbing the whole way in, as expected, a pretty unparalleled position.
Dave recommended this as the best way to access the money pitch on Dream of White Horses. Fantastic climbing the whole way in, as expected, a pretty unparalleled position.
DaveThexton 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Adam_42
with Adam_42
southern_smit 9 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Chris Oldfield 9 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with Dave Smith, James Buckley
with Dave Smith, James Buckley
j.buckley87 9 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Flavio 27 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 27 May, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Flavio
with Flavio
John Bunney ??, 2017 AltLd With Lion
With Lion
peter.ravenscroft27 12 Nov, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 13 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 9 Oct, 2016 Solo O/S
Hidden 26 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Sep, 2016 Lead
Jack93 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead p1
with Remy Veness
Lead p1
with Remy Veness
Remyveness 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead the second pitch. Better than expected!
with Jack93
Lead the second pitch. Better than expected!
with Jack93
dan-8990 4 Sep, 2016 AltLd
with WE
with WE
John sealey 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Dave Garry
with Dave Garry
Harry Ellis 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd Led 2nd
with james gibson
Led 2nd
with james gibson
Sardien 6 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
with Marija
with Marija
khalidq 4 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led The Dream pitch...
with Peter Harris
Led The Dream pitch...
with Peter Harris
franhammond92 31 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Did P1 - Megga climbing up the slab and a superb finish on buckets
Did P1 - Megga climbing up the slab and a superb finish on buckets
Jake Young 31 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S lead P2, glad i can now say that i have done the Dream Traverse, kind of wish i had done it earlier in my climbing career, really good feet all the way.
lead P2, glad i can now say that i have done the Dream Traverse, kind of wish i had done it earlier in my climbing career, really good feet all the way.
SamN 11 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P2. Somehow created nightmare rope drag, but enjoyable in spite of my punting.
Led P2. Somehow created nightmare rope drag, but enjoyable in spite of my punting.
tyho 11 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead P1. Scared Jack, Charlie and myself when I slipped while maneuvering over a flake on P2 with a pretty large run out. Held on with all the strength I could summon and was fine.
with SamN
Lead P1. Scared Jack, Charlie and myself when I slipped while maneuvering over a flake on P2 with a pretty large run out. Held on with all the strength I could summon and was fine.
with SamN
Hidden 11 Jun, 2016 -
Hidden 7 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
papashango 23 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S p1, great combo
with Aggie
p1, great combo
with Aggie
Joel Miller 18 Mar, 2016 2nd
Hidden 18 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
alexjz 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead p1 and 3
with George Ullrich
Lead p1 and 3
with George Ullrich
Neil McA 30 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt
with Jake McAdie
with Jake McAdie
Sardien 1 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Led concrete chimney pitch. 5a,Brilliant day out! Still think top pitch of Dream is one of the best ever.
with Johnny
Led concrete chimney pitch. 5a,Brilliant day out! Still think top pitch of Dream is one of the best ever.
with Johnny
JamesWilliams 25 Jul, 2015 Lead β Done both routes before so flash. Robs first trip to gogarth
Done both routes before so flash. Robs first trip to gogarth
DanielBryan 22 May, 2015 2nd Followed Andrew up this. Awesome route.
with AndrewP
Followed Andrew up this. Awesome route.
with AndrewP
AndrewP 22 May, 2015 Lead O/S Stunning route - this combination is better climbing than Dream.
Stunning route - this combination is better climbing than Dream.
dan-8990 12 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with SW
with SW
dodfoster 9 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S First pitch 5a at best. Very nice climbing on large holds getting easier the higher you go. Great link up. The last pitch on 'Dream' is mega.
with esther
First pitch 5a at best. Very nice climbing on large holds getting easier the higher you go. Great link up. The last pitch on 'Dream' is mega.
with esther
esther ?Apr, 2015 AltLd
Martin Haworth 21 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Jason
with Jason
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 2nd rpt
Maddie 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Did the first pitch really badly. Was nervous because of the rain and wouldn't trust my feet at all. Did better on Dream though. Actually enjoyed it after I finally committed to the move at the start!
with remus
Did the first pitch really badly. Was nervous because of the rain and wouldn't trust my feet at all. Did better on Dream though. Actually enjoyed it after I finally committed to the move at the start!
with remus
jgordon75 13 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S What a great combination - sun out by this point. Not sure where the 5b moves are?
with Tim Jepson
What a great combination - sun out by this point. Not sure where the 5b moves are?
with Tim Jepson
Hidden 15 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Steve Long ??, 2010 -
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 13
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set