UKC Logbook - 'The Concrete Chimney'

Rockfax Description
The original line that gets close to climbing the top section of the concrete chimney. The lower section is tackled by the route Rubble, E7 which is well named! Start by abseiling down to belay just below the belay at the top of the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point.
1) 5a, 55m. Move up and left across the ledges to just right of the arete. Gain a crack up and left and follow it to a steepening, which coincides with larger holds on bubbly rock. Move through the weirdness to ledges that lead up and left to the same often-busy belay of Dream....
2) 4c, 40m. The actual 'concrete chimney' is climbable at 5a from this point and is pretty wild. Better climbing is found just to the right to start until you can bridge across the chimney. Then move up and right across a hanging slab to reach a groove. Climb this and go over a bulge to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , North Wales HVS , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , 2021 Ticklist , Wales Trip - 2022 , Llidberis , Routes for MCI , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

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User	Date		Notes
RaRaTheTiger	26 Jun	Show βeta βeta: 60cm black diamond extender and nut left in on the last pitch, in the right of a block to the right of the concrete chimney 4-5ish meters into the pitch. Please message me if retrieved, it was left to protect the down climb to A Dream of White Horses (we were off route).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: 60cm black diamond extender and nut left in on the last pitch, in the right of a block to the right of the concrete chimney 4-5ish meters into the pitch. Please message me if retrieved, it was left to protect the down climb to A Dream of White Horses (we were off route).
Ian Carr	27 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Superb	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Superb
jshields	12 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Excellent.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Excellent.