Rockfax Description
20m. One of the best routes in the quarry, steep and pumpy but with good runners to catch you if/when you finally run out of steam. Follow the crack to the break then step right and make long moves to reach the continuation. Sprint up the flake to a breather in the easy chimney before topping out. A solid E1. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description

Ticklists: The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, 50 cracks to Squamish, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven..

climberchristy 26/Dec/16 Lead O/S

VERY windy day. Cold and first route with no warm up so got fairly pumped but it went steadily enough. Great route. Definitely deserves its three star status.

with Vanessa
WillJGritstoner 03/Dec/16 2nd
with Stan, Sol
JenShelley 03/Dec/16 Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 03/Dec/16 2nd O/S
WillJGritstoner 09/Nov/16 TR
with Rory
WillJGritstoner 04/Nov/16 TR
with Reuben Bartlett
GeoffG 30/Oct/16 Lead
with stuart lancaster
WillJGritstoner 12/Oct/16 TR
with Rory
Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Sep/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Goodstuff 13/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Superb from beginning to end. The initial slanting crack felt like the crux, needed a long shake-out at the ledge! Upper flake surprisingly easy with bomber jams.

with Sam Cooper
Robb Bert 07/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/16 -
bobpilgrem 14/Aug/16 2nd dnf

Good lead by Mathew-now given E2

with Matthew
1poundSOCKS 14/Aug/16 Lead rpt

No hard moves, but a bit too sustained for E1. Got a nice sit down rest on the ledge at halfway.

Will Hunt 12/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Not as hard as I expected it to be. Sustained but never hard and there are a couple of quite restful positions. If you're expecting E1, you'll find it hard; if you're expecting E2, you'll find it straightforward.

with Paul Cookson
WillJGritstoner 03/Jul/16 TR O/S
with Marcus Goff
Collette Hall 30/May/16 TR O/S
Hidden 17/May/16 Lead O/S
kyaizawa 15/May/16 Lead O/S

The new YMC grit guide has this at E2, which sounds fair to me!!

with Bruce Woodley
melv 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Fi
SarahSharps 14/May/16 TR
Maddie 13/May/16 2nd rpt
with Paul Waterhouse, Ben Westwood
bwestwood 13/May/16 Lead
with Maddie
Droyd 30/Aug/15 Lead dog

E1 my arse

lloydrees91 26/Aug/15 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 24/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Ozzy Kate
wrapped in bacon 24/Aug/15 2nd

Far too pumpy for me to have lead cleanly (but will get there!)

with Chris
khawk 24/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Mike Todd 23/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Last route of a great week Up Norf. Goey from the off with hard move to gain break. E2 5b fair, but no warm up, far too pumped to attempt FLC after - next time!

MichaelGallimore 23/Jul/15 2nd
with jon lawson
Hidden 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S
andy mcc 15/Jun/15 2nd
with Robin Nicholson
Maddie 10/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Steve
nick ferro 17/May/15 Lead dog
with Oli Birkill
Jono_LS16 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Pete Wimbush 10/May/15 Lead G/U

Gear in place up to third height

with Kevin
Graeme Hammond 10/May/15 2nd rpt
with Chris Hindley
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 08/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Fun, pumpy climbing.

tim newton 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
samwillo 23/Nov/14 Lead

E2 sounds about right

Hidden 01/Nov/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Maddie 10/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Really glad to stay on. Mega pump up the layback

with Robinwood People
millsy 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Brill route

with Jo Fullman
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd
Alice Thompson 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Sally
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead
Mark1800 20/Jun/14 2nd β
with Josh Williams
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd dnf
richjm ?/May/14 Lead dog
with George Nunn
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
monkeyman79 18/Apr/14 2nd RP
with Adam Cordell
oread 13/Apr/14 Lead β

Hard E1, loads of gear, well protected at the crux. Extremely little Beta

Nez ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Bowzle ??/2014 Lead β
masa-alpin 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Sustained and good route.

with Max C
PeteH 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Brandon, Naomi Hart
jshields 01/Sep/13 Lead
Tom Smith 14/Aug/13 TR O/S
Climbster 03/Aug/13 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Pumpy little blighter! Might have had something to do with placing 8 bits of pro. Awesome climbing though, need to stay technical under fire!

with Matt
Hidden 21/Jul/13 2nd
Fragmod 22/May/13 Lead
jon_gill1 22/May/13 2nd

not E2! seconded to rescue sams gear as his second ben couldnt quite finish.will go back for lead!

with sam
Hidden 30/Apr/13 TR
jamie d 21/Apr/13 TR
Just_Dan87 02/Apr/13 TR dog

One of my favourite climbs, very pumpy!

henry peter jenkins 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with robbie jenkins, paul jones
Bowzle 05/Mar/13 TR
John Gale 19/Feb/13 Lead O/S

First trad route, first lead, On sighted.

Hidden 13/Sep/12 TR dog
JamPlastick 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A sweetie exhausting battle. grips are all there, gear is good all the way up, hard gaining the first break and entering the chimney

with Malley
petellis 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Broomy
Ian Broome 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Good quality battle. Interesting hanging niche dismount to finish. west yorks Regent St?

keith leonard 25/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Harry Holmes 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with sarah lund
Hidden 14/May/12 Lead rpt
Hardonicus 30/Apr/12 2nd dog
with Kay Martin
Jim Brownlow 11/Mar/12 2nd dnf
Mike_Hayes 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 08/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Sep/11 2nd rpt
TRFrost 21/Sep/11 2nd dog
with A. Hughes, R. Timms
timmsy 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Adam Hughes
egg-man 11/Sep/11 Lead
with Peter Loftus
Graeme Hammond 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Excellent steep but juggy and with good gear. Found the chimney at the top the hardest bit. Going well or really soft for E2? Borderline grade climb.

with Becky E
hilty ?/Aug/11 Lead
mhairi thorburn 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with adam
will9911 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Easy start to good gear, hard middle either jam or layback, easy e1 like the guidebook says, no idea where ukc gets e2..

with greg
Hidden 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 08/Jun/11 2nd rpt

Still a battle, would love to just arrive and burn up this one day.

with Si 2
GuyM ?/Jun/11 Lead
with will
pbphil169 25/May/11 Lead O/S
paulwaterhouse 25/May/11 2nd β
Al Doig 02/May/11 Lead O/S

Great route.

bwestwood 15/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead dog
pie_eater_pete 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
davewsargent 27/Mar/11 2nd
aoc211282 06/Feb/11 TR RP
Hidden 30/Jan/11 2nd dog
markalmack 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
escalade ??/2011 -
Jack00 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Olly
Jack00 12/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Olly
ollyroberts 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 10/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with Jo
Hidden 07/Oct/10 2nd rpt
Dave Warburton 07/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Well worth doing. Hanging Chimney on left is fun to enter and gives pleasantly exposed chimneyinginging. Not as pumpy as i thought it would be, bon.

with Ralph Burden, HuwGoodal
cobweb 18/Sep/10 Lead rpt

5 years to be good enough to lead the so and so, very pleased!

scorky345 02/Sep/10 Lead
with Owen Pearce
hardoreVdiffBen 01/Sep/10 -

Thought it was an E1 (according to old guide) Definitely didn't feel like one, got pumped and fell off the top flake/crack!

with Owen Pearce
petegunn 26/Aug/10 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 26/Aug/10 2nd O/S
bwestwood 28/Jul/10 Lead RP
bwestwood 22/Jul/10 2nd β
mattyork2 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
lrandall 19/Jun/10 Lead dog

What an absolute cracker! Took two falls (well, slumps)in the first third due to pump. Annoying as I think I could have powered through had I not been apprehensive; however still very satisfied with getting the upper section clean. Would definately say its E2, as it just keeps on coming.

Hidden 19/Jun/10 TR O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
Rowansb 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ralph
Ewan Russell 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with ed-v12
Hidden 02/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead dog
DavidR 31/May/10 2nd O/S
kjbix 30/May/10 -

Bloody hard climb, need to be very strong.

al99 22/May/10 Lead O/S
martinazando 22/May/10 2nd dog

Terrible struggle, hard climb

Dave Thompson 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Dominic Hartin
agolay 24/Apr/10 2nd dnf

well im not up to E2 yet

with Dave Thompson
Hidden 05/Apr/10 2nd O/S
dan gibson 05/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with michael porter
gripped01 ?/Apr/10 Lead dog

1 rest before layback

with Carl Taylor
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 -
Boy ?/Oct/09 -
with Fiona Fullwood
Tim M 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 29/Aug/09 2nd
Bennykr 15/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Huw
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
joe larner 23/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Dave Foster 17/Apr/09 Lead rpt

Blew it twice, pulled the ropes twice. Clean third go. Nearly puked at the top of the flake. Hats off to anyone who can on sight this route!

with Andy
Bennykr 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 04/Apr/09 2nd
gazlad ?/Apr/09 Lead dog

trying to exorcise demons but failed . eventually finished it

with my bitch
Alex Mason 22/Mar/09 Lead

On martins gear, with bad knee, brilliant climbing.

Martin Haworth 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S


Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Noelle ??/2009 2nd RP

Exhausting. Exhilarating. And other words that start with "e".

Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
bwestwood ??/2009 TR β
Hidden 10/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Si dH 05/Oct/08 2nd dog

Two slumps on rope. Felt really hard for E1, didnt realise it presumably gets E2 in some guidebook.

with Neil Furniss
mgeek ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with adam hughes
Chad123 04/Jul/08 Lead O/S

No hard moves, just very pumpy, would have been a tough E1! Great climbing though, bit unsure which chimney to go up at the top....

with Jo
Dan 85 20/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Likewise with chimney, Rockfax topo takes the right one, but Yorkshire Grit suggests the left one. Bearing in mind chimney is part of HVS I'm guessing the R one, which is also polished etc.

porridgefan 20/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Dan
Claire Taylor 19/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Doug Robertson
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead
Dave Lacey 22/May/08 Lead dog

One irritating fall. I'll get it clean next time!

jak.kelly 21/May/08 2nd O/S
joe larner 19/May/08 Lead rpt
joe larner 30/Mar/08 Lead rpt

Soaking wet. Still good fun as ever, 4th time i think.

farmus21 ??/2008 Lead
with Pete Wilkinson
Mattyk 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Awesome.. totally pumped but manage to battle and i mean fight my way up this one! Totally the opposite of my usual style of climbing.. upper chimney (entering it) was surpisingly difficult!

with Ali K
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead
joe larner 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S

First E2. I thought the hard bit was right at the start, but it kept going! Luckily i got a nice rest before the laybacking? crack with a dropped knee. Need to do E1 now.

Hidden ??/2007 Lead
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Phill Mitch ??/2005 Lead O/S
with gritstone club
ukb shark 04/Sep/04 Lead
Cragrat Rich ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S

One of my earliest E2 leads and proudest. Nearly blew it thro pumpation top half. Excellent steep strenuous and technical grit

Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
nige 10/Oct/03 Lead
with dave kells
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 06/May/02 Lead O/S
shoulders 11/Dec/01 Lead
with joules
Andy S ?/Jun/01 2nd dog
akhughes ?/May/01 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 13/Apr/01 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
Andy Nicholson ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with JR
JSA ??/2000 -
with various
tmawer ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/98 Lead
Rich Kirby 10/Jul/98 Lead rpt
with Suzy
tapley 03/May/98 2nd
chrishedgehog 28/Jan/97 TR O/S
with Chris J
bronsonite ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Nathan Lawrence
dangmtb ??/1997 -
John Southworth 03/Oct/96 Lead
with Vicky Munn
innes ??/1996 Lead
chrismrutherford 01/Jul/95 TR O/S
with Chris
Roget 23/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
nai 07/Nov/94 Lead
with UCL CC
frost ?/Jun/94 Lead
Dave Musgrove 15/Apr/94 -
Hidden 10/Oct/93 Lead
craig h 19/May/93 Lead O/S
with Paul Braithwaite
Mick King 03/Apr/93 Lead
with Steve Hill
Hidden 30/Mar/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/93 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 01/Nov/92 Lead
with Jim, Bruce
Rich Kirby 21/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Ian Kirby
lithos ?/Apr/92 2nd dog
with john byrne
mattnuttall ?/Apr/92 Lead O/S

I wrote E1 5b !!! in my log... Not surprised it is in fact E2.

with Alan Holden
Neil R 27/May/91 Lead
with Ed
Hidden ??/1991 Lead
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 02/Sep/90 2nd
with David
andybirtwistle 07/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with Chris Pickard
Bulls Crack ??/1990 Lead O/S
with AM
Paul Clarke ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/88 2nd
Pete Pozman 06/May/86 2nd O/S
with Mark Gray
Dave Musgrove 05/Oct/85 -
charlesmfrench 22/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Chris the body.
Dave Musgrove 07/Jun/84 Lead
uphillnow ??/1984 Lead

had 2nd before

Andy Say 08/Jun/83 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Anne Vowles, Mick Hardwicke
D Tempest ?/Jan/78 Lead
Al Evans ??/1974 -
33 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 46
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set