UKC

Rockfax Description
A good route with a tough final pitch.
1) 4a, 30m. Follow Main Wall to the first stance, then move across to belay at the base of the chimney/groove on the right.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb the groove to meet Main Wall then step up and right to belay.
3) 5a, 40m. Step back into the main groove and climb the crack above on dodgy rock, to another junction with Main Wall. (Optional belay on the large triangular ledge on the right). Make a diagonal traverse left for 6m up a steep wall, then head back right up a gangway to a rest in a corner. Climb the wall above.
4) 4c, 15m. Climb the groove to the overhang. Teeter over poor rock on the right to gain a corner, then romp up the easy slab on the right to a good stance and belay.
5) 5b, 15m. Tackle the easy crack on the left of the slab to the steep corner. Follow this with difficulty to a stance. Scramble off. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Longsufferingropeholder 4 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Big wobbly block on P2 just before junction with main wall. Right above belayer's head. It would definitely be bad times if it came off. I couldn't get it to trundle from a safe position but it definitely moved. Be very careful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big wobbly block on P2 just before junction with main wall. Right above belayer's head. It would definitely be bad times if it came off. I couldn't get it to trundle from a safe position but it definitely moved. Be very careful.

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High E2
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High HVS
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High 5c
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Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Californian Arete

Grade: E1 4c ***
(California)

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