Rockfax Description
The slab, bulge and rib above. Artificial but pleasant enough. © Rockfax

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

rob 528 19/Feb 2nd O/S
slab_happy 25/Nov/16 2nd
with Droyd
Droyd 24/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Clare
cem 30/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Nearly fell off it as it was alarmingly greasy. Thankfully the party on Emma's Dilemma kindly allowed me to clip one of their pieces of gear at a crucial moment.

with Gabor Apati-Nagy
PeteH 30/Sep/16 Solo O/S
Matthoop91 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
iWoody5025 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with hoops
peg 18/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Matt Robinson 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Phil Brown
Dale Comley 14/Aug/16 Solo O/S
jungle 29/Jul/16 -
Hidden 24/Jul/16 Solo
Blod 13/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with LizS
D Berry 26/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Wayne S
Wayne S 26/Jun/16 2nd
with Dale
andyclimber 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Angeline 23/Jun/16 2nd β
with Andy
Tim Ford 16/May/16 2nd
with Jack Mines, Thomas Hocking
Hidden 16/May/16 Lead
Hidden 13/May/16 Lead O/S
BnB 08/May/16 -
Dan Vaj 01/May/16 TR rpt
Dan Vaj 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Capricorn One 30/Apr/16 Lead
with Dan Vaj
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
John R Coller 24/Apr/16 TR O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
anthonylewis 23/Apr/16 2nd O/S
stacey73 19/Apr/16 2nd
with Emma
Laurabrown 17/Apr/16 2nd
with Ruth Sullivan, George Combe
matt.stevenson 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Amy Sears 17/Apr/16 2nd
paulsross 03/Apr/16 2nd
with Phil Biglands
mickd ?/Apr/16 2nd
gaz3212 14/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Stroppy 13/Mar/16 Solo O/S
Andypeak 28/Feb/16 Lead
Durkules 28/Feb/16 2nd
MusicalMountaineer 31/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 11/Oct/15 Lead
with Helen Odwell
boulderholder 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Blod 17/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Bill B
hazeysunshine 03/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with Hilary
Hidden 03/Sep/15 Lead
oldhippy 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Jim Malo 23/Aug/15 Lead β
with Vix
Vixxm 23/Aug/15 2nd
with Baldy
climbingrev 19/Aug/15 Lead O/S

A bit eliminate, but a really nice one. moves are balancey, but pretty perfect. Enjoyed this a lot.

Hidden 12/Jul/15 2nd
BeckyPayne 03/Jul/15 2nd
kermit_uk 25/Jun/15 Solo O/S
dale.reynolds 06/Jun/15 TR
with Birmingham County Scouts Mountaineering Unit
cactus111 ?/Jun/15 2nd
with robin harris
JHiley 10/May/15 Lead O/S

No cracks or crack edges.

with Sarah
sdixon 10/May/15 2nd
SamT1 26/Apr/15 TR O/S

Supposed to be doing Emmas dilemma, but ended up doing this route instead.

SuperLee1985 26/Apr/15 TR
BnB 23/Apr/15 -
Hidden 20/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/15 Lead
Don't like e3s 19/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/15 TR O/S
Robin Nichols 09/Feb/15 Solo O/S
mapperley samurai 25/Jan/15 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
John Higgs 09/Dec/14 Solo O/S
with Caitlin Bell
AndyPagett 09/Nov/14 2nd O/S
stevelismore 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S

had seconded before so pleased to lead it. Pretty greasy after yesterday'sw rain.

pog100 05/Oct/14 2nd
with bo, Reaver2k
Reaver2k 05/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Solo O/S
lena.drapella 23/Sep/14 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Lena
cragsman9000 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Neil
sjbrook 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Polished start, easier for the tall.

with PCC, Tim
stevelismore 31/Aug/14 2nd

An eliminate. hard to resist reaching into the crack either side but managed to resist.

with Tim PCC
bob_cbr 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/14 Solo
Steve Woollard 23/Aug/14 2nd
with Donald
jpd80 23/Aug/14 Lead
with Leigh
crater 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with steve
Hidden 21/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/14 Solo
Nigel Bond 07/Aug/14 Lead
with Debs
colin milton 07/Aug/14 Lead
with mara 07/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Jul/14 2nd
Prof. Outdoors 20/Jul/14 Lead
with Jane
RichardLeggett 12/Jul/14 TR
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead
Marq 11/Jul/14 2nd O/S
philmitch 06/Jul/14 -
jamesclimbing 23/Jun/14 Lead
Johnny B Diggerman 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Had to do this one because of the name, really enjoyed this, good for placing gear, the face feels exposed and it's tempting to use the crack, great climb

with Dan L
mtempest 14/Jun/14 Lead
Steve Waters, Mynydd 14/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead RP
Jim Malo 18/May/14 2nd O/S
with Mark
JVard 02/May/14 Lead
migs493 27/Apr/14 Solo O/S
charley 27/Apr/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/14 2nd
Don't like e3s 13/Apr/14 Lead
with Terri
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
reece.robinson 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Gavdee1 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Gregor, Reece Robinson
gGor 08/Mar/14 TR
with Reece Robinson, Gavin Dee
MrFreekie 26/Feb/14 TR O/S
with Ben
MikeDowsett ??/2014 2nd
DaveB61 ??/2014 Lead
jimbonfire 14/Dec/13 -
DaveB61 10/Dec/13 Lead
MikeDowsett 10/Dec/13 2nd
deacondeacon 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S

The name is more memorable than the climbing

WhipperSnapper 02/Nov/13 TR O/S
with Maxie, Minty
StevenGrundy 02/Nov/13 TR O/S
taRomi 02/Nov/13 -
HamzaEric 02/Nov/13 TR RP

The start of this climb was incredibly challenging as there is no cracks to start, and I had to climb with one leg to get myself on top of a ledge, and then I practiced and as I got higher, my climbs became easier as I planned from the beginning how I would climb and I reached the top very easily.

Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd
cameron_hall 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
nick ferro 01/Sep/13 -
rbrookes2 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
rockman 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S
timcedwards 27/Aug/13 2nd
The Patriot 19/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/13 2nd
Nick F Smith 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Sam Brown
the power 15/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with rob
dr_botnik 15/Jul/13 2nd dog

slipped off near the top. serves me right for trying to show off and climb in bare feet.

Hardcore Pat 27/Jun/13 Solo O/S
remus 20/Jun/13 Solo O/S
with Frankie Ralph, Daniel Geoghegan, Alun Freem
Dimart 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Dave, Mike, Ben
adam carless 09/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead
EmileCilliers 04/Jun/13 TR O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
eldre070 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Polish eases after first few moves, which were hardest part. Bit contrived after that. How can this be same grade as Great Harry?!

with Cem
cem 27/Apr/13 2nd rpt
WalnutHorse 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
ashtond6 14/Apr/13 Lead O/S
alp79 14/Apr/13 2nd
mapperley samurai 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Ben Moss
99bolivar 06/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 03/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
ash longreach ?/Feb/13 Lead
the power 13/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Paul Hy
Paul Hy 13/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Phil T
Ewano 11/Nov/12 Solo O/S

Bit contrived.

Mr Spoons 21/Oct/12 Lead
with Poz
John Brayshaw 22/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Phil Mercer 22/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Dan818 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jake Young 06/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Jim Slater 24/Jul/12 Solo O/S
Wayne S 20/Jul/12 Lead
Dave Mason 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Darren Belfield
John Brayshaw 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Erica
erica 09/Jun/12 2nd
with John
Hidden 02/Jun/12 TR
Dirty Knees 02/Jun/12 TR O/S
A Crawford 07/May/12 TR
Hidden 03/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/12 2nd O/S
mrginna 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
valentinesbabe 25/Feb/12 2nd dog

Kev's lead (although he went off line due to freezing fingers) I slipped off a hold due to the same problem but stayed on the proper line with the benefit of a rope above.

Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Tithe Technique 25/Feb/12 Lead rpt

Probably more Emmas Temptation than Emma Royd.

charley 25/Feb/12 2nd rpt
with Ange, Kev
malc 28/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Paul Scott, Martin Hewes
Morwood 14/Jan/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
PAJames ??/2012 -
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
MPSBunny 24/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 24/Oct/11 2nd
dainbramaged999 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead
tiga271 30/Sep/11 Lead
with Dave
pie_eater_pete 29/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/11 2nd O/S
phja 20/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with candy
Hjort 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jake Roberts, Emlyn Roberts
Gazleah 17/Sep/11 Solo O/S
with serge
emlynroberts 17/Sep/11 2nd
with Hjort
Keendan 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd
Becky E 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A bit artificial if you're trying to avoid the cracks either side.

with Mick Sissons, Marilyn
Hidden 05/Aug/11 Lead
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 05/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Steady route

with Mick Sissons
Wilst 01/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Ben Hollands 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Chris Harding, Wendy Anderson
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Chaz2512 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
eel 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Mikael 25/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/11 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Solo O/S
GrahamHP 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/11 2nd O/S
lxg613 ?/Jun/11 Lead
ronmcdonald ?/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 29/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/11 2nd
Hidden 28/May/11 2nd
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice route, easier than some HS not so far away. No FOYH well protected !

with micksissons, Rosa Vilaseca
dpmUK 24/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jen
graphiclunarkid 24/May/11 2nd O/S

The hard part is getting off the floor on polished footholds and sloping handholds. Typical Birchen!

with dpmUK
arctic_jen 24/May/11 2nd
with Dan
steve2006 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd
RichardMc 17/Apr/11 Lead
with Dave Coles
robal 09/Apr/11 -
rfdl100 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Simon Waters
Hidden 31/Mar/11 2nd O/S
markytaylor 31/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Dec/10 2nd O/S
Double Knee Bar 12/Dec/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/10 -
RalphC 17/Oct/10 Lead
with Caroline
Joe Costello 02/Oct/10 Solo O/S
with Ellie, Matt
LivinITlarge 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Joe
LoneBoulderer 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
glennofsheff 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt

no real probs , foothold on slab v polished low in grade at vs

charley 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Luke, Steve Fletcher, Ange, Geoff, Kev
chumleywarner 12/Sep/10 TR O/S
Tithe Technique 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
valentinesbabe 12/Sep/10 TR O/S

Charley led, Kev 2nd

claregardiner 15/Aug/10 2nd
simeclimb68 14/Aug/10 Solo O/S
oddessy_uk 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
oddessy_uk 01/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S

David fell off this and on top of me. Seconded and really liked, will lead this soon.

with Laura PCC, David PCC
healybob 10/Jul/10 TR RP
tommo1664 10/Jul/10 Solo
andrea83 08/Jul/10 2nd O/S


with Saffra
maxkellock 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S

nice route with great sloppers to practice technique on enjoyable

JackPott 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Deserves a star for its name alone

Gulon 31/May/10 2nd O/S
Lumbering Oaf 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Slabs with breaks - a real Batt kind of route. Fun.

Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
Jonathan Hall 21/May/10 Solo
andrzej kierzek 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Tara
Hidden 14/May/10 2nd dog
Slarti B 02/May/10 2nd O/S


with Jon, Natalio
natalio 02/May/10 2nd rpt
with Stephen, Jon
MD 10/Apr/10 Lead
with Dave H
RockaJo 03/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Steve Hogkinson
Julesthe1st 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Jason
mic_b 27/Mar/10 Solo O/S
tinyali 23/Mar/10 2nd
with Rob Middleton
scrat 04/Mar/10 Lead
RM199 ??/2010 -
natalio 11/Oct/09 2nd O/S
phja 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Adrian, zoe marshall
Snowboy 05/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Adam1973 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
David Wynne 05/Sep/09 2nd
Karlos ?/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Mark_RMC 17/Aug/09 Lead

A slightly uninspiring route up the centre of the crag.

with Rob Smart
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
paulerussell 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Chris Poad
cpoad 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Paul R
chili-d 25/Jul/09 -
popebenedictus 20/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Powder Puff Girl 20/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with Ben H
Jeronimo 19/Jun/09 Solo
daviesp2 29/May/09 2nd
staceyjg 02/May/09 2nd O/S
jdgaventa 02/May/09 Lead
with katy
The_Boy_ODwyer 07/Apr/09 Lead O/S

SPA training personal climb, was told to lace it up, so had 6(!) runners. Normally wouldn't have bothered with more than 2...

with Leo
asmith37 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
climbinmunkey 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Initial foothold is VERY polished. Agree that blinkers are reqd to avoid using holds either side of the rib. Liked the moves though :)

with Helen
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
swmackey ?/Apr/09 Lead
with rebecca ravey
hellboundblr 21/Mar/09 Lead
with Danny Smudge
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 19/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Pilch 03/Jan/09 Lead O/S

a nice, direct line, blinkers needed though.

with Ed
Kirill 03/Jan/09 2nd
EdShep 03/Jan/09 2nd O/S
with Pilch
Hidden ??/2009 -
stargazerhill 25/Oct/08 TR O/S
with Brindo
brindo 25/Oct/08 TR
howlingbaboon 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
misssammyd 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with mattjam
MontyH 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S

I think we climbed this istead of emma's dilemma Mandy also got up this one.

with Lee Lander
benclimbing 25/May/08 Lead O/S
Ben Sidsaph 24/May/08 2nd O/S
with Lee Packer
argyle_dude 22/May/08 Lead rpt

Seconded before, took the oppertunity to lead

with smlee84
cem 13/Apr/08 2nd
with Mark O'Neill
Dickels ?/Apr/08 TR O/S
with Emma, Marcus
robjc89 ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Ben Stilman
flat eric 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with John ?
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Solo O/S
gethin_allen ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S

didn't intend to do this one but found the wrong line.

popebenedictus 12/Jan/08 2nd rpt
with Edd Rab
edd rab 12/Jan/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
richw2k2 ?/Dec/07 2nd O/S
Andy Clarke 18/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Rich, Tommo
Somerset swede basher 08/Sep/07 Solo O/S
with Sarah, Abi and Dave
Hidden 18/Aug/07 Solo
Rampikino 22/Jul/07 Lead
with Cat
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
vvanhinsbergh 29/May/07 Lead O/S
with Adam Thorpe
Hidden 29/May/07 2nd
popebenedictus 21/Apr/07 TR O/S
Powder Puff Girl 21/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Ben H
Graeme Hammond 14/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Lauren Foster/Keeler
gdb4060 ?/Mar/07 Solo
gdb4060 ?/Mar/07 Solo
D Berry 04/Feb/07 Lead rpt
with Claire Berry
Hidden 27/Dec/06 2nd rpt
adam carless 27/Dec/06 Solo O/S
Caralynh 27/Dec/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Dec/06 2nd
D Berry 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S

A bit eliminate, but has a good couple of delicate moves up the rib.

with Claire Berry
Hidden 22/Oct/06 2nd O/S
Pythonist 22/Sep/06 Solo O/S
with JdP
Iggy_B 14/Jul/06 Solo O/S
with Richard Freeman
Hidden 05/Apr/06 2nd O/S
John Lisle ??/2006 -
mikej 14/Jun/05 Lead
with Rick Naylor
Rampikino 20/Jun/04 Lead
with Liz Hay
DerwentDiluted 24/May/04 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
SteveM 06/Aug/03 Lead
with Rosie
Hidden ?/Jul/00 Lead
rocktigger ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Stu n Clare
ajc 08/Nov/98 Solo O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/98 Solo O/S
Iain Thow 23/Jul/98 Solo
ajoliver 28/Apr/98 Solo O/S
Martin Bennett 13/Apr/97 -
with MT
Hidden ??/1996 -
andrewbooth1000 ??/1995 Solo
Scally ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Dave Shore
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


7 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 40
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set