Rockfax Description
The huge corner gives great climbing. Start below the corner.
1) 10m. Scramble up to the tree below the slab.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb the slabby right wall of the corner until you are forced to move left into it. Follow this until you can pull out left onto a ledge belay.
3) 5b, 20m. A hard move round the overlap on the left wall leads to better holds in the corner. Take the crack that runs up the slabby right wall to the next huge roof. The climbing through this is surprisingly easy to the lip. Pull around the lip with difficulty, then move up and left to a ledge (possibly belay if you are knackered). Step back right into the main groove and climb to the top past a wobbly hold. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Stared Tremadog E1's, AMC Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Caff's Cool E1s List, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs.

Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Hannes B 26/Oct/16 Lead O/S

in 1pt

with John Crook
Hidden 23/Oct/16 Lead dog
eduardo 15/Oct/16 AltLd dog

Fell off after the crux! Argh! Completely pumped, managed to lose my grip on the little ledge above the 2nd overlap. Inverted and fell all the way onto the slab below on rope stretch, just as well I was wearing a helmet (left it in the hut but went back for it, good call) so had to do the crux again. Awkward and strenuous.

with Rob Trz
Dawn_K_B 08/Oct/16 AltLd dog

Rested on the rope coming out of the roof, great climb

shaunhumphreys 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Quality route! Pretty hard at the second overlap, did some weird tekkers to get round it but felt OK once committed!

with Dawn
Stroppy 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Found the crux of this really desperate I have to say

Jake Young 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Always feels like your falling out of this, useful knee bar.

with Ed
JonesE 03/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Kez as usual fancied this route and as feared I ended up doing both pitches after he bailed at the second overlap on the top pitch. Got it clean but had the fight of my life, utterly boxed getting onto the ledge above the second overlap, had the driest mouth and probably took 30 minutes to recover so as to guarantee I could finish it. No wobbly hold though. E2 in my humble opinion, albeit well protected. Oh, if someone would like to show me how to do those overlaps at 5b then please do!

with Kez
kez1 03/Oct/16 Lead dnf

Decided to go for this route a little too soon I fear. After a massive battle on the second overlap I reluctantly had to shout take as my forearms would shame Popeye. Jonesy took over the lead on my gear and made it to the top... just. Second crux is definatly harder for the tall, i was trying for the foothold under the roof but my knee was hitting the roof. Hats off to the master Joe brown. Hard for E1

with JonesE
Hidden 22/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 15/Sep/16 AltLd
aiyer 15/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Bailed at crux!

with Pete
FlavioL1989 11/Sep/16 2nd O/S
w-watson 11/Sep/16 Lead
hamish2016 ?/Sep/16 AltLd
with Will Harris
Hidden 30/Jul/16 Lead
Leo Woodhead 02/Jul/16 AltLd

Joe led the crux pitch. An absolute belter of a route. Old school climbing, thrutchy, powerful and bloody strenuous.

with Joe Hook
SteveM 25/Jun/16 AltLd dnf

Dave backed off the crux pitch after it rained. 2nd attempt aborted!

with Dave Clarke
Mark Fairhurst 18/Jun/16 AltLd
with Jon Holliday
Hidden 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/16 AltLd
bencoope 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S

In the heat this felt super hard, harder than Vector...

with kip
w.pettet-smith ?/Jun/16 -

Good and awkward

with simon kimber
Si 27/May/16 Lead dog

Got completed twisted on big roof trying to pull through. Quick reset with rest on gear and got it. Been thinking of excuses not to for ages so pleased to just get on it

with Siobhan, Becs
Hidden 22/May/16 Lead O/S
ianstevens 15/May/16 AltLd O/S

Joe led the roof (in the dark) whilst I followed after the easy pitch. A great battle! Utterly nails for E1, but super safe.

joedean 15/May/16 AltLd
DaveThexton 04/May/16 Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 04/May/16 2nd dog

Bloody beast of a climb, got hauled up it

soph 03/May/16 2nd rpt
with Gosia Lipinski
robpartridge 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Great route

with Helen
Tubs 23/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Not technically that hard, in the bouldering sense, but graunchy. Enjoyable

with AJM
Ed Babs 23/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 23/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with Neil W
Neilaw 23/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/16 AltLd dog
Hidden 16/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
JenShelley 28/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Read the guidebook and didn't think it sounded like my kind of E1, then saw it and had to climb it. So pleased to get the crux pitch clean. Had to work really hard through the overlaps (it really wasn't my kind of E1!). Think it actually helps being short for the second crux, as I could kind of curl up in the cave and work out what to do next!

with Alan
alanblyth 28/Mar/16 AltLd dog

Led p1/2. dogged final moves.

efrance24234 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Ben
ben1987 25/Mar/16 AltLd dnf
The Grist 25/Mar/16 2nd
PaulTanton 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt

Did this many years ago, and it's still a tough bastard. Did it in one pitch

Dan Vaj 19/Mar/16 2nd dog
with James McHaffie
Paul Collins 18/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Got the top pitch, its almost as good as a Fair Head corner!

with Naomi Raab, Kieran Ellis
climbernvr ?/Mar/16 -
Mike_Hayes 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S

one pitch - E2

Hidden 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
camelsurfer ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
johnmk ??/2016 AltLd O/S
FreddieSmith 20/Oct/15 AltLd
spalice 20/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Did a crazy fridgey breaststroke move up the arete coming out of the 2nd overlap! Apparently I missed a foothold...... haha! Thought about resting on gear and so pleased that I didn't!!! Led the 5b pitch.

griffithpatrick 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Tom Pillow 10/Sep/15 Lead

Took a bit of effort this! Feet got coated in bird crap and made the second overhang a tad tricky. Got it without a fall though. Fred took a fall seconding and used a bit of aid. A great E1 in my books!

with Fred
mynyddresident 05/Sep/15 AltLd
with KP
martinlevya82 17/Aug/15 AltLd dog

Terrifying!! And auxillerating

Pete_Frost 15/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Backed off first crux a few weeks ago. Got it all clean first time today. First crux punishes the short with a long reach for a good hold, second crux punishes the tall: those of the short persuasion will be able to sit in the grotto and admire the view. Brilliant protection where it's needed. Great route and nowhere near as brutal as the name suggests.

with Dan Hale
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
AlexBclimbing 07/Aug/15 2nd
jacob shieldhouse hadley 31/Jul/15 2nd O/S
jsmcfarland 30/Jul/15 Lead G/U

I returned to slay the beast after falling off the hard finger crack above the main roof last year. Flowed up the 2nd pitch like a dream, even the hard moves leaving the belay were easy (!), and the foul smelling bird shit all over the rock on the little ledge under the big roof didn't phase me. The horrific moves getting over the lip and up the groove were as bad as ever and I just barely heaved myself up to the waiting jug. There must be a better way to do this but I'm bloody happy I got up it. Way harder than the grade suggests, E1 5c or E2 5b would be fine in my book. Woop!

with Will
James Oakes 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

The main pitch. Really, really good.

with Anna Gilyeat
static266 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 4b pitch, Chris lead the hard stuff!

philippe orchard 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

good climbing but took a small detour however corrected soon after.

Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
anguskille 26/May/15 AltLd O/S

linked 2nd and 3rd pitch, great fun, tricky coming out from the roof

Adam Booth 26/May/15 AltLd rpt
Dan Vaj 26/May/15 Lead rpt

1pt of aid

with Khalid
khalidq 26/May/15 2nd rpt
james1978 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with pam
LJKing ?/May/15 2nd O/S

Pretty tough climb - although I was not on good form!

with Paul Clarkson
Andy Peak 1 26/Apr/15 2nd
with Si
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
elliptic 19/Apr/15 2nd
with Tom R.
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
ashtond6 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Mike Todd 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S

1st pitch

with Neil Hillis
nickstephens 06/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Darcan
darcan 06/Apr/15 AltLd
with nick
Hidden 05/Apr/15 2nd dog
Senna 05/Apr/15 Lead β

Led P1 and linked P2 and P3 together

HAJ Francis ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Dan Geh 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S


AMJ098 14/Feb/15 2nd O/S
with Charlie stewart, Dan Geh
Hidden 14/Feb/15 AltLd dog
tom.e 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S

in one pitch

with Dan
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead rpt
jcw ??/2015 -
KDhruev 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Katie
Hidden 17/Oct/14 -
jezb1 14/Oct/14 2nd

Stepping out from the roof felt cheeky, not much for the feet.

mynyddresident 12/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with KP
robertmctague 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Both Pitches, felt like rock solid E2 to me.

KeenClimber 27/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Ian Dugdale
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead dog
w-watson 07/Sep/14 AltLd
khalidq 27/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

A proper battle to get up and out of the roof.

with Kelvin Mann
JHC 23/Aug/14 -
Sam Watson 23/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Tiring. Not with it at the time and failed to commit to the crux fully.

EmilyElouise 03/Aug/14 2nd dnf
Hidden 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
foostu4 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S
jsmcfarland 28/Jul/14 Lead dog

Insanely hard climb at the grade, felt way harder than every other E1 5b I've done. I made it past the first crux at the start of 2nd pitch (HARD), and then nearly made it past the 2nd crux leaving the big roof before I got pumped on my hand jam and had to rest on gear. Disappointed I didn't finish it clean, I'll get it next time. Cool climbing!

with Joss
duncandarnell 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Chris P1 and me p2 Great route and safe but pretty tough at the grade!

with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
KeenClimber 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Jim Nutall
nepsoi999 02/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with sophie
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
AnniH 29/Jun/14 AltLd dog
with TonyB
suds_01 16/Jun/14 2nd
with Stu P
monsteratt 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Did pitch 2. Very entertaining climbing. Second roof was very interesting!

with Neil
Neil 14/Jun/14 AltLd
ItsHuwHaribo 08/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Dad lead first pitch. I lead the second pitch passed the crux and onto bellow the top roof. Hard climbing and very thuggish i thought! Had to belay down from below top roof. Ran out of fuel. Ill get you next time!!

Hidden 08/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/14 2nd
Bob Loblaw ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Stuart Blackler
Hidden 28/May/14 2nd dog
ben.phillips 26/May/14 2nd dog
andy_e 26/May/14 2nd

First crux on second pitch needed a point of aid, second crux below the roof is best approached facing out!

MichaelGallimore 26/May/14 -
Shaw Brown 16/May/14 Lead dnf

Run out of quick draws before the second roof so bailed.

richjm ?/May/14 Lead O/S


mick1jones 12/Apr/14 2nd dog

First crux no problem but second ... dogged it like Stan Colleymore

with Rich Rogers
Andrew Sloan 30/Mar/14 AltLd rpt

Led main pitch but ran out of quickdraws so rebelayed below final overhang, which Tony then led. Pretty tough route, solid E2 in my book.

with Tony Ball
Stefan_Morris 30/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
shed_hed 08/Mar/14 2nd RP

Left it up to Dougie to finish who didn't have any trouble at all, so I had to get me revenge on the route! Still found it horrible climbing and absolutely nails! First overlap was hard and pulling through the main roof felt desperate. Had to full on physically and mentally fight to get to the top of this - an absolute battle and one I'd like to forget!

dswansonlow 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
shed_hed 08/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Horrible, harrowing, green and wet route - did not enjoy this one bit! Got to the main roof and took my first proper lead fall trying to get around it and into the groove. Cam popped and I hit the slab. Lowered off after that.

Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
jimxxx ??/2014 -

Chris lead first pitch and I had the pleasure of the second pitch. The crux took me a while to work out but I was chuffed to get up clean . Brilliant route .

Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 2nd
eel 16/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
elyben 10/Nov/13 AltLd

2nd pitch

will_benfold 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3 (as described in the Ground Up guide)

with Ben Ely
The Grist 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Mike Rignall
Short&Savage 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Neil Colquhoun
mynyddresident 31/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
with Tony P
Nicole Almond 28/Aug/13 AltLd

Lead P1.

with Dad
Dave Almond 28/Aug/13 AltLd

Awkward and thuggish. not a lot of style required. Fun in the sun with Nicole

Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/13 -
Hidden 23/Aug/13 AltLd dog
DanielGyi 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Sustained with brutally strong moves. Satisfying climb though

with Pete Bugryniec
Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jun/13 -
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead dog
Kevster 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

As one pitch.

with Will T
Fragmod 01/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd dog
lanky 01/Jun/13 AltLd
with Rich
Dan Mckinlay ?/Jun/13 -
Fragmod 26/May/13 2nd
dicky79 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Lead in one pitch.

with Pete
Hidden 07/May/13 Lead rpt
Sol Armer 07/May/13 2nd O/S

Soloed first pitch

tim newton 01/May/13 2nd rpt
UncleMephisto ?/May/13 Lead dnf
with Sol Armer, Sam Wainwright
Stefan_Morris 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Great fun, second over hang's pretty big! led as one big pitch.

with jenny
Rachel S 19/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, Cal led crux pitch.

with Cal
Sam Melville 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch quite hard and also loads of bird poo!

anthonydouglas 01/Apr/13 AltLd dog

Lead the first pitch.. had an epic battle seconding the 2nd pitch. Got to the top after pulling on the rope at the crux, covered in bird poo, feathers, grass, blood.... but a good laugh, and very 3D climbing.

Hidden 31/Mar/13 AltLd
The_Boy_ODwyer 31/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Lead crux

with Colin Harvey
Hidden 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 30/Mar/13 Lead

Very nice if only the hole route climbed as well as the top

Chi Cheng 03/Mar/13 Lead β

Lead the whole thing. Started to fall on P2 and grabbed gear that was by my hand. Lowered back to the belay an got it 'ground up'. Hard for 5b if your short.

with Bill Smith
remus 31/Jan/13 Lead rpt

Instead of the second pitch of fingerlicker. Felt pretty awkward and powerful.

Keendan 31/Jan/13 2nd β

The climbing is most awkward. At some point I wasn't aware which way was up. Good lead from Remus.

with Remus
rbharries ??/2013 AltLd dog
with ollie mentalz
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
adie84 ??/2013 -
neilh ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
neuromancer 11/Nov/12 AltLd RP

Led P2, major whipper on the crux (onto a nut key, haha) but pulled it through. If you're short, you're in for a surprise crux about two metres from the top.

Hidden 11/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
Jay C 06/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Tadams 06/Oct/12 AltLd

1st pitch then dragged up crux 2nd pitch on 2nd

with Jay Conlon
paddygoodwinlondon 29/Sep/12 AltLd dog

Did 2nd and 3rd together, cocked up crux and ended up falling, but got through in the end.

with Sebastien
Sebastien Gastaud 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

I lead the first pitch, Patrick lead the second

wi11 13/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P1. Nice climb, safe but there is a big loose block on the 3rd/top of 2nd pitch

with Brian
martrin 09/Sep/12 Lead

hard for the grade? had to have one point of aid, must have missed something out or just crap!

with Sarah Kekus
Jen Crook 26/Aug/12 AltLd


with John Houlden, Rob Patchett
Hidden 26/Aug/12 AltLd
Johnywilks 14/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Gerallt Owain 30/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Paul Davies
stuart34 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd
mattyork2 24/Jul/12 2nd
with Johnny Richard
Curly Rich 14/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with GMC Stuart, GMC JohnP
Hidden 14/Jul/12 2nd
Stewart Armstrong 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with John Proudfoot, Richard Spencer
Hidden ?/Jul/12 -
rd20 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Amazingly burly and 3D - my 500th route

with David P
Hidden 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead
Michael Allday 21/May/12 Lead rpt
with ieuan
Hidden 20/May/12 AltLd O/S
Tom Doldon 20/May/12 Lead O/S

more pumpy on the legs than arms

with sam simpson 48
Julesthe1st 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mike
alek 06/May/12 AltLd dnf
with Graeme Schofield, Tom Bide
masa-alpin 06/May/12 AltLd O/S

Lee lead P1 to the tree and I lead the rest. Perhaps since I am (very) short, the first overlap was the crux for me, though to be fair the last overlap was more committing. Good route.

with Lee P
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
martinazando 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

lead 1st pitch.

with Dunx
Dunx 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Martina
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd β
Hidden ?/May/12 -
will9911 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with clay
Clay C 28/Apr/12 AltLd dog

Led P1 & P3. P2 felt desperate.

with Will T
Hidden 12/Apr/12 AltLd
mbradberry2008 05/Apr/12 Lead dnf
mikeyg 18/Mar/12 Lead dog
Ollie B 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

P2. Wet. Felt fine, found a lot of hands off rests.

with T.Ripley
Liam FLeming 06/Mar/12 -
with tim harrop
Hidden 06/Mar/12 2nd
Joe W-O 04/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Captain Gear ??/2012 -
Owen_P ??/2012 -
Alex.M-M. 27/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
Matt_L_Robinson 20/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
CragDog 20/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
climbing_wiggy 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch.

with Leon
Lenny 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 & 3 ran together

with Paul
Hidden ?/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden 31/Oct/11 -
Ceridwen 28/Oct/11 2nd dog

Still found the first overlap really tough, even on second, bloody T-rex arms. Second overlap was great though!!

with Andy Mosienko
Ceridwen 28/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Failed at the first overlap, found it quite reachy and awkward.

with Andy Mosienko
CRiddiford 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

p1 solo/chris, p2 me. Pretty good, glad to have been expecting something hard though. Bit after the ledge being soaked makes an intersting top out!

with Chris
chrism225 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S


JRae 02/Oct/11 Lead
mwatson 02/Oct/11 -
philhilo 17/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

H P1 & 3. Me P2. Only had a single 60m rope so had to do it in 3 pitches. Crux not helped by going over roof and discovering fingers jammed below. Move back down, thrutch. Back over and then gear jammed under lip, argh! Finally finished it clean but feeling very unwell - virus or something akin, sweating like a pig and too tired to talk!

with Helen E
Hidden 11/Sep/11 AltLd
gforce 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Pretty tough. Emma wasn't impressed at having to second this!

with Emma
Andy Moles 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Calum
3 Names 22/Jul/11 AltLd rpt

I lead first pitch Roz lead pitch 2

givemetea 22/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Led P2 to the top. Fabulous climb and very hard for the grade. A real sandbag. Had to rest on the gear at the crux.

with Vince
dan ely 22/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with tony (army)
Mark Young 19/Jun/11 AltLd
with Evan
john lynch 29/May/11 AltLd O/S

lead the top 2 in one, superb and burly climbing through the roofs with added excitement of rescue helicopter right above our heads!

with simon smith
brockers 28/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28/May/11 2nd
with Chris Parkin
Sankey 24/May/11 -
with Luke
thebigfriendlymoose 24/May/11 Lead O/S
with Stephen
Hidden 12/May/11 Lead
Hidden 12/May/11 2nd dog
Hidden 04/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/11 AltLd O/S
Si dH 30/Apr/11 AltLd dnf

Basically got spanked by this. Was very hot and dehydrated. Found first roof desperate, fell once then got it next go, and then was just too tired and all the psyche had gone for the top roof. Got half way through it but hen lowered off. Will go back on a day when Ive had more sleep, water and food and it isnt 25 degs + in the sun.

with Chris Foster
Sophie Nunn 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Phil
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead dnf
gingergeorge 20/Apr/11 Lead

first roof ok, second roof ok but put pro in only hold so found it difficult had rest under third roof before going up final corner

with ben and jonno, rcp
matt.woodfield 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 08/Apr/11 AltLd

James ran out of gear, downclimbed to fall off safely and i then lead it. Fantastic.

with James the Navigator
tim newton 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with rich gentry
Michael Allday ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with rodney greenfield
Alex Mason 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Brutal. Loose big block at the top.

Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
bwestwood 14/Dec/10 -
with pete sargeant
pie_eater_pete 14/Dec/10 AltLd
with bwestwood
Ewan Russell 20/Nov/10 AltLd O/S


Hidden 20/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Anthony Allsopp 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Absolutely mental climb. Far harder at the crux than I could have expected. My forearms were completely shot by the time I had pulled round the overhang and on to the slab

with Jon Coutts
M_W_Court 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
al99 18/Sep/10 2nd dog
with Luke Thomas
clive-greenwood 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Physically a brute of a climb.

with Anna
Christopher Roberts 10/Aug/10 AltLd
cliff jones ?/Aug/10 -
dan ely 21/Jul/10 Lead dog

very wet.a real horror show! amazing climb though. rested on a gear whilst just before getting my feet on top slab.

Hidden 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
scorky345 05/Jul/10 Lead
with Tim Oates, Owen Pearce
tim20 05/Jul/10 2nd
petellis 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
mattyork2 26/Jun/10 Lead

In a oner

Julesthe1st 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Andy Stripp
AndyStripp 12/Jun/10 Lead
CarolineH 12/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Dave
Bristoldave 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S


david morse 06/Jun/10 AltLd O/S


with Juan
Alexandre Buisse 01/Jun/10 2nd
with Dave E. Brown
London Luke ?/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Brown 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Alexandre Buisse
tigertim 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Tony Payne
smallerrich 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. Hard.

farmus21 30/May/10 Lead dnf

First pitch only. Couldn't pass another party.

with Eugene Theron
Dave Reeve 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Steve Hordley
Joby 30/May/10 AltLd β

led first pitch, last was way trickier than expected!

Hidden 16/May/10 Lead rpt
adam06 16/May/10 2nd

not very technical, but a bit pumpy. 3 star

samrad 01/May/10 AltLd
with tom rip
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/May/10 2nd O/S
hilty ?/May/10 Lead O/S
hepitt 28/Apr/10 AltLd

Pulled on a runner low down! Hard...through both overlaps. Interesting moves! Even top pitch interesting!

with Rob Pitt
Rob Pitt 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
hilty 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
tobydunford 25/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
C Mclean 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Craig Marshall
Ken Applegate 14/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Great route. Crux was definitely awkward, but never too tricky.

Hidden 10/Apr/10 AltLd
eddy-on-the-rocks 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Dropped the rope off the top of the pitch. Wired shimmy climbing move required.

with Gaz
hervenuttall ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

did it one of 50m ropes! it was fantastic

with matt b
ksjs 07/Mar/10 2nd rpt

classic route, cool in the afternoon shade, awkard as ever but the most controlled of my 4? ascents of this so far

with jo
Bron 14/Feb/10 2nd dog

Beylaed for 2 hours in the rain. Then climbed it really angry. Couldn't communicate well with Sally so she kept the rope ded tight cos there was big rope drag and otherwise there was way too much slack. Couldn't do the ledge bit properly cos had no slack and she couldn't hear me ask. was brilliant climb anyway. I slipped off at least twice.

Hidden 14/Feb/10 Lead
mr mills ??/2010 -
with edwin
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
centurion05 ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 Lead
soph ??/2010 Lead
Sophie Nunn 13/Dec/09 AltLd
37degrees 21/Oct/09 AltLd
with Andy Leivers
Mike Goldthorp 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
HeatherF 04/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Luke Brooks 25/Sep/09 2nd rpt
chrisallan 19/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 18/Sep/09 AltLd RP

Led P2 (main one). Had seconded once before in rain

Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
RobRock84 09/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

second overhang is awesome,great exposure and positions,like someone commented before,the loose rock/hold at the top was abit scary

with Adam Bevan
shane54 ?/Aug/09 Lead dog

Got trapped by fear and arkward moves in the corner under the roof. Disappointed not to do it cleanly.

Cowflinger 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Superb route and good battle.

with Dai Morris
Hidden 25/Jul/09 AltLd dog
Adam Booth 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 24/Jul/09 -

What an amazing route, why did i take so long to get round to it? You've really got to earn this one and its all the more sweeter for it.

with Kelly
Derek Ryden 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Raining but just dry enough

with Peter Hill
AdrianP ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Olli
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/09 TR dog
Hidden 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
Dave Thompson 28/May/09 AltLd O/S
with John Evans
Rich Kirby 04/May/09 Lead O/S
with Kev
Hidden 03/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd
simonp ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Nicki Hearne
sgl 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Mallard
Hidden 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Richard Hession 04/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Got the fun top pitch, unusual and very entertaining.

with John
DavidEvans 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
metal arms 02/Jan/09 Lead dog

fell off coming out of the roof a few times

en7edh ??/2009 2nd
inuklm ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with Dave Gent
Martin Haworth 01/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 01/Nov/08 2nd O/S

Definately a route for a hard core thug.

barni 27/Oct/08 AltLd rpt


mikelaing ?/Oct/08 2nd
with Pete Harrison
Glyn 23/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Lead main pitch, top overhang is BIG! Watch out for the loose block on the top pitch, its also big

davefount 23/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Glyn lead 5b pitch though to the top. I led first pitch up to just below the 'proper' stance.

with Glyn
Misha 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
greenclimb 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 02/Aug/08 Lead dog
davidgent ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Led pitch 2

with Kunal
tlmarjot ?/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with James Marjot
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead dog
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 17/May/08 AltLd rpt


Gareth_Thomas 17/May/08 AltLd β

I lead the first pitch Will lead the second pitch. Second pitch is apsolutely and completely horrendous!!!! My hardest route to date, I had to spend some time dangling seconding the roof.

Sgt. Vest 11/May/08 AltLd dnf

thunderstormed off, grrr

Hidden 11/May/08 AltLd dnf
Hidden 05/May/08 AltLd dog
Hidden 04/May/08 AltLd dnf
ksjs 20/Apr/08 2nd rpt

i couldnt believe how much i struggled on the crux despite it being my third time on the route (previous 2 efforts were leads too!)

with sarah
Hidden 16/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
@ndyM@rsh@ll 16/Apr/08 2nd dog

This felt like by far the hardest thing i've ever climbed at any level, including bouldering, and i did a sodding V9 in 2 hours last week!!! I've heard of some climbs suiting different people to differing degrees but this was insane, i fell off trying to get out from under the niche 4 times, and i was bloody seconding it!!!

with Carlene Hill and Richard Bennett
Carly 16/Apr/08 AltLd
with richard/ andy
Al Franks 22/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd Pitch

with Harry Allan
Alasdair88 22/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

with Nicki
kitkat78 15/Feb/08 AltLd dnf
with SteveM
SteveM 15/Feb/08 AltLd dnf
with Kat
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
barni ??/2008 Lead
with Si
Hidden ??/2008 -
Stone Muppet ??/2008 Lead dnf
Marcus ??/2008 -
RossG123 ??/2008 Lead
Dale ?/Nov/07 AltLd O/S

did the oaky cocky on the top overhang. PUMPY. My mate shouted to these girls to find out where I was they replied he's stuck under everythin. Johny then moooed his way up the route the cows mooed back. gr8 route

with johny
joe larner 25/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

led the 2nd pitch. wild climb shame its a little vegetated.

Luke Brooks 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Jack Symmons 17/Aug/07 Lead

4m whipper from the finish hold. A snad bag if one - E2 5C

with Chris T
tokendream 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Hardest thing I've climbed to date, have a new found respect for E1, think I thought 'I hope that was the crux' about 4 times, even the exit was tricky.... or maybe i was just knackered by then.... :O)

with Mark Gill
hamish2016 29/May/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Thorne
dan gibson 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 06/May/07 Lead O/S
Mick B 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Matt Brennen
DavidR 11/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
IanJackson 10/Apr/07 Lead O/S

A Very good climb, needing a delicate touch to work the roofs. Quite low in the grade.

with Big Ian
Morgan Woods 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S

done as a single pitch (60m ropes). def at the top end of the grade! some desperate moves at the second bulge! heel hooking helps.

with Gareth
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd dog
Andy Ray 03/Feb/07 2nd dog
with Ian and Soph
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd dnf
Wayne S ??/2007 -

P1, P2 = A1

Dan 85 16/Dec/06 AltLd dog

Overhangs and slab where dripping and soaked in places: my excuse for falling anyway. One of the best E1's I've done!!

with Tim
Hidden ?/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/06 AltLd dnf
chris j 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Bradford
Chesh 23/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Phil B
Ed Booth 30/May/06 AltLd O/S

Did not lead main pitch which is fortunate as it was incoherently tricky!

with Remus Knowles
remus 29/May/06 AltLd O/S

Roof pitch, excellent (retrospective) fun.

ritchierich 21/Apr/06 AltLd O/S

Phil did 5b pitch.

bsu20c 23/Jan/06 Lead

Damn tough those overhangs

with claire
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Nathan Kemp ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Rhys Barnes Miller
Hidden 18/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Martin Bennett 01/May/05 -

Seconded, cheated and still found it harder than when I led it clean 30 years earlier

with NickH, SW
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead dog
Simon Palmer ?/May/05 Lead dnf

Tried and failed! Nice fall from the roof though, hit the slab below on rope stretch when my Cam popped!

with Colin Riggs
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
MarkDavies36 ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Katrin Thomas, Jill Singleton/Davies
Hidden ??/2005 -
KRB 15/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
Nathan Kemp 07/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Claudia Whitcombe
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb, difficult for the extremes in height! Fantastic thrutch-fest past the second roof - Brilliant!

nige 21/Feb/04 2nd
with dave kells
Roget ??/2004 Lead O/S
with jim
Owen W-G 30/Aug/03 2nd dog

Seconded as a novice and found it a nightmare!

with Dan & Jim
spidey 19/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Jul/03 Lead
tommy82 24/Nov/02 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
cem 28/Sep/02 Lead dog
with Pete Atkinson
Just Another Dave 02/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Chris Bird
nickdonohue ?/Apr/02 Lead
with Ian Brenton
cem 05/Aug/01 Lead dog
with Miles Butteriss
Andy S ?/Jun/01 AltLd dnf

I went wrong way on crux pitch, fell several times and got hurt, Adam took over and we got rained-off, abseiled off a dubious peg. I have a score to settle with this climb!

akhughes ??/2001 Lead O/S
Simonfarfaraway ??/2001 AltLd
with Dave A
DubyaJamesDubya 02/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
DavidR 07/May/00 AltLd dnf
with John Marston
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
timmy-ts ??/2000 -
Bullybones ??/2000 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
kev davies ??/2000 -
NeilGriffiths ??/1999 AltLd
Hidden 04/Jul/98 Lead O/S
frost ?/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/98 2nd O/S
Guy ??/1998 -
WB ??/1998 AltLd O/S
Julian Wedd ??/1998 Lead
with Dave Evans
babymoac 12/Jul/97 2nd
with Chris F
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 29/Jun/96 AltLd
with Martin Styles
Hidden ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
Scott McRae 25/May/96 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. What a roof. What a well named climb! Guidebook should read, layback still difficult crack above roof before strength fades!

with Martin Hore
craig h 11/May/96 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
michael burrows 25/Feb/96 Lead rpt
with brian jones
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Budge ??/1995 AltLd O/S
with Rod Gritten
Big Rik ??/1995 -
rurp ??/1995 Lead O/S
michael burrows 25/Sep/94 2nd
with andy boorman
leadmat ?/Sep/94 Lead O/S
with Hosey B
Hidden 11/Apr/94 Lead
nai ??/1994 AltLd
3 Names ?/Jul/93 2nd O/S
with Richard Parry
3 Names ?/Jul/93 2nd O/S
with Richard Parry
Hidden 01/May/93 Lead
Budge ?/May/93 Lead O/S
with Richard Teed
leadmat ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
Hidden 12/Jul/92 Lead O/S
Budge ??/1992 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
The Reaper 22/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Andy Say 22/Jun/91 Lead
Chris Wright 30/May/91 Lead
malc 25/Mar/91 AltLd dog
with DW
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 2nd
with stumpy
biggianthead ??/1991 -
with HT
Hidden 07/May/90 Lead
whispering nic ?/May/90 -
with Tim PYB
pingora 10/Apr/90 2nd O/S
with Davy R
DDDD ??/1990 -
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with FMC
Hidden 16/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 04/May/89 Lead
with Phill R
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1989 -
AndrewP ??/1989 AltLd
TonyF ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S
with Ian Birkinshaw
Hidden 02/Jun/88 Lead O/S
sadams 23/Apr/88 Lead
with Andy Mitchell
michael burrows 10/Apr/88 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
Hidden 31/May/87 Lead
Hidden 03/May/87 Lead
Martin Bennett 23/Aug/86 -

Very big lob on first attempt - forty feet? - onto me "operation" tenderness. Ouch!. Got it next time though.

with Brian Roberts, IW
Eduardo Martinez 10/Jul/86 Lead O/S
John Marsland 08/Mar/86 Lead
with Tony Rex
Alan James - UKC and UKH 22/Feb/86 AltLd
with Rory Park
daprince ??/1986 -
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 Lead dog
with Phil Windall
Mark Kemball 08/Dec/84 Lead
with Dan Symonds, Paul Metcalf
Hidden 11/Nov/84 AltLd
wynaptomos ?/Oct/84 Lead O/S
MikeYouCanClimb 26/May/84 Lead
with Adam
Hidden ??/1984 -
stp 19/Nov/83 Solo O/S

there was an ab rope in place

Gordon Stainforth 02/Jul/83 AltLd O/S

Then graded HVS, and felt like 'the hardest thing I've ever led'!

with Robert Barton
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1983 Lead
with Chris Ensoll
GordonHart ??/1982 Lead O/S
ewar woowar ??/1982 Lead
tapley 18/Jul/81 Lead
with Chris Seymour
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/81 -
with Richard Langthorpe, Gerry Dunford
Steve Lewis 01/Aug/80 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/80 Lead
Mark Kemball 28/Jun/80 2nd
with Wawa
Hidden 03/Apr/80 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??/1980 -
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
daviesxxx ??/1980 -
steveboote ??/1980 Lead

With Neil Wise

steveboote ??/1980 Lead
with Neil Wise
kjacks ??/1980 2nd

Get it right and it's not thuggish at all - esp for 'shorties'.

with 'Psycho' Simon
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1979 2nd
with Alan Walmsley
telemark ??/1978 Lead
with Len Marlowe
Ian Jones ??/1978 Lead rpt

Definitive HVS

with Chris Newton
Nigel Bond 03/Jul/77 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
Rob Davies 06/Jun/77 2nd
with David Kinniburgh
Hidden 14/May/77 Lead
GeoffG 09/Apr/77 2nd
Mark Kemball 19/Mar/77 Lead dnf

Fell twice from above the roof trying to foot traverse the ledge. Cracked the back of my helmet! Eventually climbed it in 1980

with Stuart Robinson
uphillnow ?/May/76 Lead

Had seconded Nigel Helliwell in early 1970's.Climbed periodically as Barbarian, or the crux on Mangolesi(original line) or on the girdle. Most recently on 1.6.2011 (lead).

with Al Bennett
Mike Owen 07/Mar/76 -
with Sandy Doby
Sean Kelly ??/1976 AltLd
with Bob Millward
Hidden ??/1976 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/1976 Lead
RichardMc 12/Sep/75 Lead O/S
with Roger Everett
Bolt Phobia 04/Jun/75 Lead
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
petemeads 11/May/74 Lead
greenbuoy 02/Aug/70 2nd
with Terry Taylor
mikej 17/Apr/68 AltLd
with Humph Thompson
mikej 12/Apr/67 AltLd
with Mike Byles
mikej 11/Apr/67 AltLd dnf
with Keith Gregson
Hidden 21/Aug/66 AltLd
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 126
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 119
Votes cast 109
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set