Rockfax Description
The finest route on the crag. Start in a small damp gully.

1) 5b, 45m. Climb straight up to a small triangular overlap. Move over this and climb diagonally left to reach a crack. Trend back right to the base of the long slanting crack. Make a tough move to gain the crack proper and follow it to a ledge.
2) 12m. Scramble onto Bilberry Ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, CUMC First Ascents.

RKirke 27/Aug 2nd O/S
Stroppy 27/Aug Lead O/S

A fantastic pitch - well worth the walk in and deserving of its three stars

John Bunney 09/Jul 2nd dog

wanted to do this for years, i was not climbing well, but still thought it was pretty crap, The scramble to the terrace is no scramble!

shed_hed 09/Jul Lead O/S

Was a little disappointed after all the hype for this pitch but it was pretty good, though a little dirty and suspect rock near the finish. Felt a little run out in places.

Graeme Hammond 20/Jun 2nd rpt

Great to do this again, such a class route.

Pete Wimbush 20/Jun Lead O/S
James Beaumont 26/May Lead O/S

Went way off route and ended up fighting up a sloping run out crack which felt about e3, no idea how I held on, logging this to remind me to go and do the true line because the snappy hold terror climb didn't feel very 3* to me

with Trystan Lowe
geoff b 27/Aug/16 2nd

What a brilliant route: 5 stars. Brilliant climbing, brilliant rock, great holds, loads of good gear. Mike managed it in one pitch to the back of the ledge on 50m ropes. Must lead it.

Rob Pitt 27/Aug/16 2nd
with Lou
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Graeme Hammond 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Hindley
DubyaJamesDubya 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Great climb. Sustained rather than 'cruxey'.

with Joe Harris
Hidden 25/Jul/15 2nd
Ian Jones 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Wonderful delicate climbing on beautiful rock. Bone dry after a night of drizzle.

with Dan Moore (DCD)
Dan724 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Marti999 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Debbie
wi11 22/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tim Neill
Glyn 21/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Best route I've done in a long time.

with John Leighton, Glyn Hudson
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
msoldn 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Sam (tree surgent)
Lessworkmoreclimbing 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Could have led. Easier than left wall! NB abseil from bilberry ledge best with a few long slings to bring rope right to edge of ledge - borrow sufficient or go with others.

with Kev
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 2nd
with Al George
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
dswansonlow 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Keith Jackson
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd
eduardo 07/Jul/13 2nd dog

Pumpy and sustained

with Misha
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Misha 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Great route on an awesome crag but the approach is a ball ache! Note to self: next time, opt for the double abseil rather than the walk. A steep and uncompromising line, sustained but has some rests and the holds are generally good if a bit dirty (needs more traffic!). I thought the hardest bit was moving left then right round the rooflet as that was strenuous. The moves right into the crack were more technical. Interest was maintained going up the crack. With the Pinnaclissima finish and the big walk in and out, it was a great mountain day out. The swirling low clouds added character but it was still very warm. Can't believe this isn't in Hard or Extreme rock, it's really good!

with Ed
adam 24 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd O/S
markalmack 26/May/13 Lead O/S

well good!

Hidden ?/May/13 -
Duncan Campbell 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Bloody brilliant, sticky juggy rock! Great wall climbing in a lovely secluded position.

with Bubbles
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Dirty today

with Tom Jumar
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
soph ??/2010 Lead
with Graham scofield
soph ??/2010 Lead
with Graham scofield
Hidden 05/May/07 2nd
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/07 Lead
datoon 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with RT & JB
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
lukea 01/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Al
Hidden ??/2000 -
uphillnow 04/Jun/97 -
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/97 -

Originally climbed with Rick Kruze about 3 years earlier. A stunning pitch! We actually climbed the new Idwal guide cover to cover! This route on the back and Milestone Super Direct on the Front cover on the week it was first published.

with Rick Kruze, Keith Bolton
Hidden ??/1997 2nd
michael burrows 25/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/95 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/95 Lead
Bullybones ??/1995 -
wynaptomos ?/Sep/94 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
Cowflinger 17/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
Johnny Baker ??/1994 -
with Duncan Spence
Roget 06/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 26/Apr/87 2nd
jon 07/Jul/85 Lead
with H
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
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