Rockfax Description
The finest route on the crag. Start in a small damp gully.

1) 5b, 45m. Climb straight up to a small triangular overlap. Move over this and climb diagonally left to reach a crack. Trend back right to the base of the long slanting crack. Make a tough move to gain the crack proper and follow it to a ledge.
2) 12m. Scramble onto Bilberry Ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, CUMC First Ascents, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 18 Sep AltLd O/S
K Mckay 25 Aug Lead O/S
with joe.91
with joe.91
Neil McA 25 Aug 2nd rpt Last done mid '80's, lovely route.
with Stan
Last done mid '80's, lovely route.
with Stan
joe.91 25 Aug 2nd O/S Amazing!
with K Mckay
Amazing!
with K Mckay
Owen W-G 25 Jul Lead O/S Quite a strenuous section low down (on the kink L and back R) which I failed to protect adequately so then got pumped and a bit scared. Needed a warm up really. Above that it is sustained well pro 5a/b all the way to the top with decent stopping points and loads of gear.
Quite a strenuous section low down (on the kink L and back R) which I failed to protect adequately so then got pumped and a bit scared. Needed a warm up really. Above that it is sustained well pro 5a/b all the way to the top with decent stopping points and loads of gear.
Hidden 3 Jul Lead O/S
Misha 3 Jul 2nd rpt Good to do this again - nice long pitch.
Good to do this again - nice long pitch.
Hidden 22 Jun Lead O/S
murray 22 Jun 2nd O/S
Steve Long 22 Apr 2nd Climbed before back in the 80's. 3 stars
with Chris Forrest
Climbed before back in the 80's. 3 stars
with Chris Forrest
Tom.Priestley 25 Feb Lead O/S Very nice climbing, all steady and all there. Would make someone a good first E2. Did in one pitch with 60m ropes.
with James Gibson
Very nice climbing, all steady and all there. Would make someone a good first E2. Did in one pitch with 60m ropes.
with James Gibson
geoff b 25 Jul, 2018 2nd rpt It really is super pitch.
with TRip
It really is super pitch.
with TRip
Dave Musgrove 10 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Superb pitch. The climbing is sustained but never really hard and the protection is plentiful. This probably ranks close to Left Wall and The Strand for quality and style at this grade. The conditions, however were perfect, and the route well chalked which made route finding easy.
with Johnny Walker
Superb pitch. The climbing is sustained but never really hard and the protection is plentiful. This probably ranks close to Left Wall and The Strand for quality and style at this grade. The conditions, however were perfect, and the route well chalked which made route finding easy.
with Johnny Walker
ianstevens 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with joedean
with joedean
Frank the Husky 5 Jul, 2018 - A good route, but not three stars. The line isn't that obvious, and there are several places at which you can go wrong on the route. Having said that, it's well worth doing in combination with Pinnaclissima, or in fact, anything on the upper teir.
with Fleuriot
A good route, but not three stars. The line isn't that obvious, and there are several places at which you can go wrong on the route. Having said that, it's well worth doing in combination with Pinnaclissima, or in fact, anything on the upper teir.
with Fleuriot
The Grist 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
with Dan Metcalfe
manwithacam 28 Jun, 2018 2nd crux took me by surprise on this, Mark just seemed to cruise it. First route of a perfect mountain day
with the grist
crux took me by surprise on this, Mark just seemed to cruise it. First route of a perfect mountain day
with the grist
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28 Jun, 2018 Lead
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
peter.herd 4 Jun, 2018 2nd
with Ali S
with Ali S
Hidden 23 May, 2018 2nd
Hidden 22 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 22 May, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2018 2nd
Adam Booth 22 May, 2018 Lead rpt
with Freddy, Ed Booth
with Freddy, Ed Booth
peter.herd 18 May, 2018 Lead
with Tim N
with Tim N
RKirke 27 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Stroppy 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S A fantastic pitch - well worth the walk in and deserving of its three stars
with RKirke
A fantastic pitch - well worth the walk in and deserving of its three stars
with RKirke
John Bunney 9 Jul, 2017 2nd dog wanted to do this for years, i was not climbing well, but still thought it was pretty crap, The scramble to the terrace is no scramble!
wanted to do this for years, i was not climbing well, but still thought it was pretty crap, The scramble to the terrace is no scramble!
shed_hed 9 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Was a little disappointed after all the hype for this pitch but it was pretty good, though a little dirty and suspect rock near the finish. Felt a little run out in places.
Was a little disappointed after all the hype for this pitch but it was pretty good, though a little dirty and suspect rock near the finish. Felt a little run out in places.
Graeme Hammond 20 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt Great to do this again, such a class route.
Great to do this again, such a class route.
Pete Wimbush 20 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
James Beaumont 26 May, 2017 Lead O/S Went way off route and ended up fighting up a sloping run out crack which felt about e3, no idea how I held on, logging this to remind me to go and do the true line because the snappy hold terror climb didn't feel very 3* to me
with Trystan Lowe
Went way off route and ended up fighting up a sloping run out crack which felt about e3, no idea how I held on, logging this to remind me to go and do the true line because the snappy hold terror climb didn't feel very 3* to me
with Trystan Lowe
geoff b 27 Aug, 2016 2nd What a brilliant route: 5 stars. Brilliant climbing, brilliant rock, great holds, loads of good gear. Mike managed it in one pitch to the back of the ledge on 50m ropes. Must lead it.
What a brilliant route: 5 stars. Brilliant climbing, brilliant rock, great holds, loads of good gear. Mike managed it in one pitch to the back of the ledge on 50m ropes. Must lead it.
Rob Pitt 27 Aug, 2016 2nd
with Lou
with Lou
MikePycroft 27 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt Big pitch excellent climbing
with geoff b
Big pitch excellent climbing
with geoff b
Graeme Hammond 26 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Chris Hindley
with Chris Hindley
DubyaJamesDubya 19 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Great climb. Sustained rather than 'cruxey'.
with Joe Harris
Great climb. Sustained rather than 'cruxey'.
with Joe Harris
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 2nd
Ian Jones 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Wonderful delicate climbing on beautiful rock. Bone dry after a night of drizzle.
with Dan Moore (DCD)
Wonderful delicate climbing on beautiful rock. Bone dry after a night of drizzle.
with Dan Moore (DCD)
Dan Hale 23 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Kyle87
with Kyle87
Marti999 18 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
wi11 22 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tim Neill
with Tim Neill
Glyn 21 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 21 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Best route I've done in a long time.
with John Leighton, Glyn Hudson
Best route I've done in a long time.
with John Leighton, Glyn Hudson
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
Dave Rumney ??, 2015 -
msoldn 13 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with Sam (tree surgent)
with Sam (tree surgent)
MikePycroft 13 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with Chris P
with Chris P
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 2nd
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 2nd
with Al George
with Al George
Frank the Husky ??, 2014 -
dswansonlow 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Keith Jackson
with Keith Jackson
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 2nd
eduardo 7 Jul, 2013 2nd dog Pumpy and sustained
with Misha
Pumpy and sustained
with Misha
Hidden 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Misha 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Great route on an awesome crag but the approach is a ball ache! Note to self: next time, opt for the double abseil rather than the walk. A steep and uncompromising line, sustained but has some rests and the holds are generally good if a bit dirty (needs more traffic!). I thought the hardest bit was moving left then right round the rooflet as that was strenuous. The moves right into the crack were more technical. Interest was maintained going up the crack. With the Pinnaclissima finish and the big walk in and out, it was a great mountain day out. The swirling low clouds added character but it was still very warm. Can't believe this isn't in Hard or Extreme rock, it's really good!
with eduardo
Great route on an awesome crag but the approach is a ball ache! Note to self: next time, opt for the double abseil rather than the walk. A steep and uncompromising line, sustained but has some rests and the holds are generally good if a bit dirty (needs more traffic!). I thought the hardest bit was moving left then right round the rooflet as that was strenuous. The moves right into the crack were more technical. Interest was maintained going up the crack. With the Pinnaclissima finish and the big walk in and out, it was a great mountain day out. The swirling low clouds added character but it was still very warm. Can't believe this isn't in Hard or Extreme rock, it's really good!
with eduardo
adam 24 7 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2013 2nd O/S
markalmack 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S well good!
well good!
Hidden ?May, 2013 -
Duncan Campbell 5 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Bloody brilliant, sticky juggy rock! Great wall climbing in a lovely secluded position.
Bloody brilliant, sticky juggy rock! Great wall climbing in a lovely secluded position.
John Postlethwaite 22 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with liam
with liam
Hidden 22 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 22 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Dirty today
with Tom Jumar
Dirty today
with Tom Jumar
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden 27 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
soph ??, 2010 Lead
with Graham scofield
with Graham scofield
soph ??, 2010 Lead
with Graham scofield
with Graham scofield
Jayney D 5 May, 2007 2nd
with Ste D
with Ste D
tumbling wizard ?Apr, 2007 Lead
datoon 4 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with RT & JB
with RT & JB
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
NickJH ?May, 2005 2nd
with M Blood
with M Blood
pauldrew 25 Apr, 2004 2nd
pete johnson 25 Apr, 2004 -
with Kevin Sales, pauldrew
with Kevin Sales, pauldrew
lukea 1 Jun, 2003 2nd O/S
with Al
with Al
Hidden ??, 2000 -
uphillnow 4 Jun, 1997 -
Sean Kelly ?Jun, 1997 - Originally climbed with Rick Kruze about 3 years earlier. A stunning pitch! We actually climbed the new Idwal guide cover to cover! This route on the back and Milestone Super Direct on the Front cover on the week it was first published.
with Rick Kruze, Keith Bolton
Originally climbed with Rick Kruze about 3 years earlier. A stunning pitch! We actually climbed the new Idwal guide cover to cover! This route on the back and Milestone Super Direct on the Front cover on the week it was first published.
with Rick Kruze, Keith Bolton
Hidden ??, 1997 2nd
michael burrows 25 Jul, 1996 AltLd O/S
with rockcat
with rockcat
MikePycroft 25 Jun, 1995 2nd
steveb2006 25 Jun, 1995 Lead Pretty fine route
Pretty fine route
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1995 -
wynaptomos ?Sep, 1994 Lead O/S
Cowflinger 17 Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
Johnny Baker ??, 1994 -
with Duncan Spence
with Duncan Spence
Roget 6 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Hidden 26 Apr, 1987 2nd
Hidden 7 Jul, 1985 Lead
Neil McA 16 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S Did The Groove on Llech Ddu the same day, great routes, lots of walking!
with Roy Ruddle
Did The Groove on Llech Ddu the same day, great routes, lots of walking!
with Roy Ruddle
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 27
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set