30m. A good climb, which is still clinging on to its E1 status, although absolutely at the bottom end. Start at the cave entrance 10m right of the Withy Crack belay. Move up and step left; then gain the slab. Climb the slab to the third of 3 saplings, where the wall steepens. Move leftwards up a thin crack to gain pockets. Nice technical moves on the wall above lead to the exit of Withy crack.

M Raine, M Hammill 30/Mar/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20, Bristol 1st E1s.

ali.scott 23/Apr Lead rpt
WillAndrew 23/Apr 2nd rpt
with Ali
afterthesend 23/Apr Lead O/S
samparsons 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Emmie
emmafizzle 23/Apr 2nd β
Wendy Watthews 22/Apr 2nd O/S
with Luke
JoeCoxson 13/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder 10/Mar Lead O/S
with Ed
BarrySW19 24/Sep/16 2nd O/S

'Chilled to the Bone' while hanging around belaying in the cold draught from the cave :-) - good route which felt significantly harder than Withy Crack - certainly couldn't hang around cleaning the gear on this route and had to get some bits afterwards.

with Jon
SenzuBean 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S

"just a bit harder than Withy Crack" - no way! Was much more difficult IMO. Really enjoyed this one. The move to access the slab was interesting, and the moves up the steep wall were superb, followed by a good rest and a final move before the home stretch on Withy Crack. Was a bit brambly, and could do with secateurs. Also was actually surprised that it does start right by a real cave - you can feel the cold wind pouring out!

with Barry
RJLeish 08/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Stanners 08/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Soft but very good.

Tom courtiour 11/Aug/16 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Hairy moment just after crux when a cam on my harness somehow caught my last runner and wouldn't release - after desperately yanking to no avail, I had to reverse a tough move to free it, was going so smoothly till then ...sweating and swearing ensued, but I didn't fall off!

with Kev
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jul/16 2nd
Rob Morgan 09/Jul/16 Lead

First E1 lead :)

with Dave B
Hidden 02/Jul/16 Lead rpt
julesmckim 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S

great upper section

Mayaculpa 04/Jun/16 TR

Scenic route. Using holds out to the left at the crux

with Alex
Mayaculpa 04/Jun/16 2nd

Nice cool steady lead from Al

with Alex
TomGudgeon 10/May/16 Lead dnf

Halfway up first E1 lead (albeit at fairy cave) rain came in heavy and had to back off. Will go back for this.

Hidden 03/May/16 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward 01/May/16 Lead O/S

Nice route, easy climbing with some saplings for gear for the first half, leaving plenty of gear for the foothold-less crux with a short run-out after whilst trying not to venture onto Withy Crack.

Martin Bagshaw 01/May/16 Lead O/S

HVS 5a

with Tom Hudson
Jenny Dart 01/May/16 2nd
with Robin
Hidden 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Another great route, Withy Crack maybe slightly better. Not the style of climbing I'm used to in the quarry, I had to use my arms ! HVS 5b

Phil Anderson ??/2016 Lead
Mike Roger ??/2016 Lead
10029759 25/Oct/15 Lead
Matt1234 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Benjaminblanc 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S

My first E1! Probably very soft for E1 but I'm no expert.....

with Joe Andrews, Jonathan Axford
hairy51 25/Oct/15 2nd
AndThenIWasFlying 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Andy M
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
WillAndrew 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Tom N
WillAndrew 19/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with Ali
Soph Armshaw 19/Sep/15 2nd
ali.scott 19/Sep/15 Lead dog

I blame the mud and greasiness - slipped and weighted gear by the tree!

with Soph
Hidden 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
miriamclaire 17/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Kemics 03/Aug/15 2nd O/S

I think this merits E1. It has short lived difficulties, but they are definitely 5b and pretty thin moves.

with Mel
Chris Redding ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Fun moves on the steep wall around the pockets. Found the step-across hard to protect so very run out.

a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
RiPomc 25/Jul/15 2nd

A few rests on the way.

with Steve Grey
Paul Baller 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Mayaculpa 18/Jul/15 2nd
with Michael H
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
felixizzy 30/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Soph
lukerathmell 30/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with George
Felix Ottey 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Felt harder than the first time. Foot placements under bomber gear are getting polished.

Larey 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Paul
e9mark 23/Jun/15 2nd
with barry
felixizzy 18/Jun/15 TR rpt
with shunt
Trace 14/Jun/15 2nd
Monkey_Alan 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Took a few tries to work out which way to go at the crux.

Hidden 11/Jun/15 2nd
carl_123 10/Jun/15 2nd O/S
lukerathmell 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with emma holland, Carl Stubbs
Hidden 10/Jun/15 2nd
91dave 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
mes32 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S


with Lina, Dave
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd
markfromstoke 06/Jun/15 Lead
with Duncan
Ejminee 29/May/15 2nd
LovelyMrTom 28/May/15 Lead O/S

First E1! Hope it doesn't get downgraded any time soon

Ian JL 23/May/15 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 21/May/15 2nd rpt
with Max Coney
Legs 21/May/15 Lead O/S

Soft E1. Over after the rocking up onto the jug, but a fun move. Lead it after Withy crack. Not much harder.

with Steve
Bob Peters ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Ollie Wickham 30/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Could I have lead this?

with Richard Mackie
Pete Rigby ??/2015 Lead rpt
with Kelli Roberts
AlexRenshaw 12/Oct/14 2nd
with Ted Lister
Rob Morgan 05/Oct/14 2nd dog

Wasn't feeling up to the initial overhang so bypassed this. To do properly another day.

Steve Bartle 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 27/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with John Harris, Jamie Roberts
JulianB 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd
katiep 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Callan
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
callans 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S

First E1 (but on second)

steve-grigg 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
David Maddison 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead
zcsharp 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
RobScarisbrick 03/Aug/14 2nd dog

Slipped in the rain

with cdpuk
cdpuk 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Hardest of the day. Started raining as I got to the top.

Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead RP
Steve Bartle 27/Jul/14 2nd
spenser 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Nice moves and a good route. A couple of the holds in the upper section are a tad dirty but it's easy ground by that point.

with Andrew Rembrandt
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead dog
sheelba 12/Jul/14 2nd
Wendy 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Chris Sieradzki 06/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Nice route but I don't think it is E1 5b. It's easier than Withy Crack next door.

with Hooo
Hooo 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Very soft for E1. Rushed up it in a hurry as we had to leave, and it was no problem. Hardest bit was the rope drag from the first bit of gear above the cave, so at the ledge I untied and continued on one rope.

Hidden 06/Jul/14 2nd O/S
will_benfold 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Pintsize 22/Jun/14 Lead
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

HVS 5a. Definitely easier than Withy Crack.

with Jana
BFG 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with James Orde Powlett
Hidden 19/May/14 Lead
Vincej 19/May/14 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd O/S
felixizzy 05/May/14 Lead β
tskelhon ?/May/14 2nd O/S
clmacdonald ?/May/14 Lead
kirsten 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
gjh 18/Apr/14 2nd β
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Hidden 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/13 2nd
Tristypants 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Helen Eden
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
petegunn 02/Aug/13 Lead

A little damp and slippery at the start but fine once on the upper wall, a good route well worth doing

with Davina
Hidden 02/Aug/13 2nd O/S
MoWalker3 24/Jul/13 -
with Cormac
Cheese Monkey 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Dissapointingly easy!

with Iggy, Peter
pheotleyr 24/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Felt easier than and was not as good as Withy Crack. Still really nice though.

with Iggy, Ben
squicky 24/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Ben, Peter
Hidden 24/Jul/13 2nd
mick1jones 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Guttridge
Felix Ottey 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
timstyles 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Good holds for the steep moves and good gear generally. Felt easier than Withy crack.

just one more 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with john smith
jon bradley 12/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Tim Styles
TimPerkin 02/Jun/13 Lead
with Tom Perkin
tolly_60 01/Jun/13 2nd β


Owen W-G 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Decent gear for this crag, not using your friend 1 low down when it is needed for the high crux would be wise, nice gift at the grade

with Liam
tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
Georgia H ?/Jun/13 2nd
markfromstoke 22/May/13 -
with Steve N
Hidden 18/May/13 2nd
beth_may 28/Apr/13 2nd
with Oli Mentz
Chazwoz 27/Apr/13 Lead β

First E1 (more like E0.5)

clams ?/Apr/13 Lead
with Chazwoz
Hidden 28/Feb/13 Lead O/S
LukeyG 19/Sep/12 Lead
kirsten 15/Sep/12 2nd

scoffing on the blackberries half way up :-)

with Mick
alastairbegley 08/Sep/12 Lead
with Jackson
Tom Frost 06/Sep/12 2nd
cpoad 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

First on-site E1 lead without hanging. Felt low in the grade

with John S
Phil Murray 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Worthwhile - the easiest E1 I've done, about the same as Withy crack really. Great moves & good gear :)

with Liz
Gibbo 17/Jun/12 2nd
with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison
clipskipper 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Crux is the central wall. Thin and quite technical, and plenty of fun. Again all too short

with Sue Hazel
Hidden 09/Jun/12 2nd O/S
adam 24 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
riddle 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Marti999 31/May/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
The Ivanator 28/May/12 Lead O/S

Had a bit of gear beta (take plenty of cams and slings), but no tips on the moves. My first E1 lead. A good climb, but soft for the grade, it didn't feel like I had just broken a new lead grade as I've climbed harder HVSes, but happy to be able to call myself an extreme leader! Made a right meal of abbing off and getting the gear - the ab point is well off to the left and I was penduluming around all over the shop!

with Jez
Hidden 28/May/12 2nd rpt
Nigel Coe 27/May/12 2nd
with Norman Wright
Rick Ashton 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Nice climb, pretty easy and decent protection.

with Robert Drynda
Steve Woollard 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Joe Bellows
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead
climbingchica 16/Oct/11 2nd
Huntlyfiddler 03/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead rpt
riddle 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
BALD EAGLE 21/May/11 2nd
with David Martinez Majo, Richard Williams
Hidden 16/Apr/11 TR rpt
joeurwin 21/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Alasdair88 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S

would have felt hvs if holds not filled with wet mud. Good route though.

crossdressingrodney 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with jon
fatbuoybazza 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Jonny M 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 09/Aug/10 2nd
evhall 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S

crux is move or gear - but not both! Great route but easy..

with CK
tobydunford 31/May/09 Lead O/S
just one more 31/May/09 Lead
with Max B
DorsetGareth 30/May/09 2nd O/S

Started about a third of the way up, having abbed off Withy Crack.

with Richard Nadin
AlexD 03/May/09 Lead O/S
joeurwin 03/May/09 2nd dog

muddy shoe slipped off small foothold just above tree but lowered to tree and climbed top cleanly. Annoyed about fall though! Lovely route.

with alex & Dan Bruniges
Bristoldave 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S

First time in Fairy cave, so maybe this is normal, but thought the rock quality on this route was fairly poor.

with Ed
Quirina 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
mol 05/Apr/09 2nd
with Jesse
Jesse Dufton 05/Apr/09 Lead
vertigo 19/Oct/08 2nd β
MarkRyder 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
SC 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

First E1 lead.

greedo 13/Jul/08 2nd
with Steve Marriott
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
jon bradley 27/Apr/08 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
chris sm 11/Nov/07 2nd rpt
with Ian Butterworth
cas smerdon 04/Oct/07 2nd

Second with Mike Kann. Could not say I climbed all of it as Iain kept rope tight on hard part...which was good when I slipped off! Started out in failing light and finished ab in darkness.

with Iain Shone
Shone 04/Oct/07 Lead


with Mike Kann & Cas
Hidden 14/Sep/07 2nd rpt
Mark Davies PK 12/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Brian
Anthony Allsopp 19/Aug/07 Lead O/S

My first E1 lead and what a buzz!

with DAve and Jason (HMC)
deklan ?/Aug/07 Lead
JimR ?/Jul/07 2nd
with AJM
freelancer_85 02/May/07 Lead O/S

Nice moves over the overlap, and where the slab steepens. Pulled off a sidepull at one point, and nearly came off, and my feet came off at one point but I managed to hang on.

with Megan
Hidden 22/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/06 2nd rpt
Bux ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Rupert Bassadone
maresia 11/Feb/06 2nd dog
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
chris sm ?/Aug/05 2nd
KRB 16/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Bridges
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
just one more 28/May/04 Lead
with tim b
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Nigel Coe 12/Jul/03 Lead
with Norman Wright
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
with Gavin Edwards
Paz ?/Jul/02 Lead
with SN
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 67
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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