Rockfax Description
Hard and fingery wall-climbing that is at the top of the grade. Start just right of the diagonal crack of Chepito.
Take the wall to the break and the high first bolt. Make some fingery moves to larger holds and then climb with increasing difficulty to a final easing on the top wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Generally thought to be F7c now

F Haden, G A Jenkin, E Heslam 23/Apr/1995

Ticklists: The road to 8a, West Country Climbs.

quiffhanger 02/Jan Lead rpt
with Adam Ryan, Rachel
Billg 26/Dec/16 Lead rpt
with Megan Beaumont
Ramon Marin 26/Nov/16 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
Nathan Chrismas 22/Oct/16 Lead dog

Started working this top down. Moves around the pinch seem hard, but doable.

with Timms
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 14/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Retro flash! First go. Brilliant route.

with Elliot, Sue hazel
Hidden 14/Oct/16 Lead dog
remus 19/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Happy to retro flash this. Working out that top sequence is inevitably an exercise in ancap for me, as I can never remember it and have to hang around on those crimps for way too long working out what to do.

Dale Comley 18/Sep/16 Lead RP

2ng go. Never 7c

ArrMcC 11/Sep/16 Lead RP

1st RP. Felt easier than my other 7b+ Was desperate until I sorted my feet. It is all about feet!

with Chloe
james n 14/Aug/16 Lead RP
with Lisa P
nickmoulden ?/Aug/16 Lead RP

Conditions dependant. If it's in the sun it's harder.

with zoe bidula
Harry Chaplin 02/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Fell on the crux onsight, hung and climbed to the top. Slipped off crux side pull next go and then we had to leave. Next time!

climbomaniac 02/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead RP
richiebongo 05/May/16 Lead RP

Lost count how many times ive tried this but got it 2nd go today.

with Nick Smith
emdawes 04/May/16 Lead RP
Dean177 03/May/16 Lead RP

I didn't end up using the poor sidepull/undercut on the right, instead moving slightly to the left, taking the slippery pinch with my right hand (instead of my left) and doing a big move to a good hold. Felt miles easier, not convinced it was properly 'on route' though

with Ana_B
afrosam 02/May/16 Lead RP

Happy to get this third day on, especially after spending 2 hrs waiting for the rain to stop then another hour for the tide to go out

with Trisha Murphy, freya, Tom, Ash
Swampy167 21/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Going to be a project I think. Amazing moves. Loved the crag in general. must go back soon!

La Mont 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with AlexD
Davebryant 18/Apr/16 Lead dog

Onsited to the crux, took a spill, pulled through after quick shake out. Will go down next time!

with Joe Day
Andy Smallwood 09/Apr/16 Lead RP
Ben Russell 07/Apr/16 Lead RP


R2B 03/Apr/16 Lead RP
Rosea Day 02/Apr/16 Lead
Trisha Murphy 27/Mar/16 Lead dog
with Jamie
Hidden 25/Mar/16 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Mar/16 Lead dog
quiffhanger 13/Mar/16 Lead rpt

Got well psyched to when I thought I was going to manage it as a warm-up retro-flash but contrary to my memories it's really bloody hard after the steep stuff. Went next go.

with Rachel
blaza1 05/Mar/16 Lead RP

2nd go today

LITTLE SAM ?/Mar/16 Lead RP
with carl wartkins
Ramon Marin 28/Feb/16 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
Rory Bascombe 25/Feb/16 Lead RP
with Elliot, Jenna, Jacob
jacobjohncharles 24/Feb/16 Lead RP
Hugobristol 21/Feb/16 Lead dog

All fine apart from one powerful boulder problem on sidepulls. Not likely any time soon

with Alex
Hugobristol 21/Feb/16 Lead dog

All fine apart from one powerful boulder problem on sidepulls. Not likely any time soon

with Alex
Hidden 16/Jan/16 Lead dog
malx 16/Jan/16 Lead RP

Felt hard with numb hands. great moves!

Hidden ??/2016 Lead O/S
Wise ??/2016 Lead RP
vickydavies 01/Oct/15 2nd

Managed the lower section but can't piece together the upper section over on the slabby upper- hard! But good to try something well out of my comfort zone

with Helen Gardiner
Trisha Murphy 27/Aug/15 TR
climbomaniac 16/Aug/15 Lead RP

2nd go. Good fun!

Dean177 18/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Ana_B
Laurence Everitt 06/Jun/15 Lead dog
with Shaggy
Dizz 23/May/15 TR dog

With clipstick trying moves ... hard!

with zof
Hidden ?/May/15 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Apr/15 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Apr/15 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead dog
Nathan Chrismas 08/Mar/15 TR dog
Hidden 08/Mar/15 Lead RP
Sarah Black 21/Feb/15 Lead dog
just one more 20/Jan/15 Lead dog
with vertigo
ericinbristol 11/Jan/15 TR dnf

After many tries, still shut down trying to move up from the slippy unpositive left hand pinch on the crux to the high right hand sidepull. Maybe I am trying to do it the wrong way. Or maybe I just need to get better at that move.

adlamixion 11/Jan/15 TR
ukb shark 02/Jan/15 Lead dog

Desperate. Hard, nasty moves.

with Tom
Hidden ??/2015 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Dec/14 Lead β
rhoslynfrugtniet 12/Dec/14 Lead RP
with gavla, dan dyson
lewiz 06/Dec/14 Lead RP

7b+ on the nose for me. Really good route but could just as easily be a boulder problem.

with Radek
Hidden ?/Dec/14 Lead
hankyc 28/Nov/14 Lead RP

got it! second go of the day after falling after the crux first

Hidden 22/Nov/14 Lead β
Sarah Black 22/Nov/14 Lead dog

Good route but harder than Chulilla

anthony henry 16/Nov/14 Lead RP

pumpy. lovely stuff though

with Andy, Ali
Andy Smallwood 16/Nov/14 Lead dnf
lewiz 09/Nov/14 Lead dog

Almost did it in two sections but pulled off a crux foothold moving right and up after the reachy right hand crux. It still goes but makes this ever so slightly more difficult. Pretty sure this is not 7c as I've seen in some places.

with Radek
Llinos C 18/Oct/14 Lead RP

Great power endurance route! The best route in brean

with Simon Brice
remus 04/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Had a really good burn on the retro flash, got through the crux and had one hard move to go before easy ground. Got lost in the sea of shitty blind crimps though.

hankyc 03/Oct/14 Lead dog

Found crux pretty hard, very hot today also but lovely time at the seaside

Joe Innes 08/Aug/14 Lead RP
DrGav 07/Aug/14 TR dog

Crux causing some problems! Thumbs losing skin but getting there.

with Wendy
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead dog
alek 10/Jul/14 Lead dog

3 attempts

adrian perera 10/Jul/14 2nd
alek 06/Jul/14 Lead dog

2 attempts

Rosea Day 29/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Jun/14 Lead RP
Kevster 17/May/14 Lead rpt
Trisha Murphy 05/May/14 2nd dnf
peaches69 04/May/14 Lead rpt
with luke
jonleighton 16/Mar/14 Lead RP
chakrit 09/Mar/14 Lead RP

2nd go

richiebongo 01/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Ra, Nick Smith
_m.cox_ 16/Feb/14 Lead rpt
with Al Sarhan, Ben West
DJ Nelson 07/Feb/14 Lead RP
lukehodson 19/Jan/14 Lead rpt
yan hawkins ??/2014 Lead RP
with ollie benzie
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead RP
JM ??/2014 Lead RP
HANNAHSLANEY12 ??/2014 -
Hidden 02/Dec/13 Lead RP
Graham Westbrook 02/Dec/13 Lead RP
Bates 30/Nov/13 Lead RP

Worked hard for this. Nice route.

with Chris holister, Andy Brice
DorsetGareth 23/Nov/13 Lead RP

Two full sessions - had to dig deep.

holister 23/Nov/13 Lead RP

Really nice route!

with andy, lee
Gibbo 22/Nov/13 TR dnf
with Lee Bateman, Ollie Keynes
Nick Russell 22/Nov/13 Lead RP

First 7b+! Second attempt of the day.

Alex Winter 22/Nov/13 Lead RP

Third or fourth go of the day I think. Great weather, but a bit chilly. Key to success was a Rocky-style training montage down the beach to warm up.

with Nick
remus 17/Nov/13 Lead RP

Went for a token OS which ended at the second bolt. Got a pretty good sequence going bolt to bolt. First RP went pretty well but think I was still a bit tired, got to the last hard move and fluffed it. Elbow was feeling a bit shit by this point so resolved to sack it off for the day. Gareth got back on it though and I got tempted again an hour or so later. Went fine 2nd RP. Gareth was pretty close all day, think he'll get it once he's stuck the crux.

DorsetGareth 17/Nov/13 Lead dog

Nearly. Next session hopefully.

with remus
Alex Winter 14/Nov/13 Lead dog

One top-rope and then a modest lead attempt. Got it in two halves. Should go I reckon.

with Nick
Nick Russell 14/Nov/13 Lead dog

Got it all figured out now. 5 goes on lead, of which the last 2 were serious redpoints. Came off the crux both times. Clip above the crux (bolt 4) is still problematic, may have to run it out.

Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead rpt
Wendy 10/Nov/13 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Nov/13 -
anthony henry 26/Oct/13 Lead dog

First go today. Feels like it will go soon

Hidden 19/Oct/13 Lead
drcorbasisgod 20/Sep/13 Lead RP
archiecb 14/Sep/13 Lead RP

Awesome, tried 3 years ago and had to project it hard, falling on the top section after the crux on two occasions. Went back and dogged it once, then cruised it first redpoint. Some gains have been made!

with Pete Wycislik
chrisscutt 11/Aug/13 Lead RP
with ro
wi11 18/Jun/13 Lead dnf
with Nat
tobydunford 11/May/13 Lead RP
with Harry Martin
Iskander 06/May/13 Lead RP
with Kathia
tobydunford 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Harry Martin
tombeasley 14/Apr/13 Lead dog

Hoped to get in a session but poor damp conditions only allowed working the moves which I got then linked easily enough. Looking forward to finishing next time.

lukehodson 07/Apr/13 Lead RP

1st RP. Good route.

Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Mar/13 Lead dog
ollie_e 17/Mar/13 Lead RP

Sweet, first 7b+. Went first go of the day.

Hidden 17/Mar/13 2nd dnf
ollie_e 14/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Skipped uni thinking I'd work the moves and see what happened...dropped it at the very top, took a monster fall! 3 attempts, 2nd the closest, will definitely go soon!

ollie_e 09/Mar/13 TR dog

Got the moves down, just need to finish it off now!

Hidden 09/Mar/13 Lead RP
Ellis Butler-Barker 06/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Such a cool route, psyched to get the onsight!

with JackMac
Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead RP
Jay81 02/Mar/13 Lead RP
with Tomar
Hidden ?/Mar/13 -
drcorbasisgod 19/Feb/13 Lead dog
with Marc Weisner
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 17/Feb/13 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Feb/13 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 15/Feb/13 2nd dog
Tom Brierley Gore 02/Feb/13 Lead dog

Complicated... First look

with Nick Eaton, Shijing Hu
James Marshall ?/Feb/13 Lead rpt
with wendy
Hidden 30/Jan/13 Lead rpt
tobydunford 28/Jan/13 Lead dog
with Harry Martin
Ed Booth 04/Jan/13 Lead RP

Tried to flash, fell on move after sidepull. Did second go. Basically wet.

with Edwin Mitchell, Adam Booth
Adam Booth 04/Jan/13 Lead RP

2nd RP today (and quick play on TR few days ago). Piss wet today and bloody cold!

Hidden 01/Jan/13 Lead dog
Adam Booth 01/Jan/13 TR dog

Quick top rope. Will definitely go.

Mike Goldthorp 01/Jan/13 Lead RP

2nd go, watched someone try it before me and tried their (wrong) beta, worked out the sequence and it went smoothly, great start to 2013!

with Alex Harper
tommytuffa 02/Dec/12 Lead RP

1st go today, great route. Took me longer than I hoped it would

with ollie b
AJM 18/Nov/12 Lead RP

4th go today, with 2 of those falls being on the easier moves getting feet over the top bulge. Had tried previously. Steady 7b+.

Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead RP
Luuuuuke 05/Nov/12 Lead RP
with Si
Hidden 30/Oct/12 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Dan_Carroll 23/Oct/12 Lead dog
Tris.w 16/Oct/12 Lead RP

One flash attempt a few days ago, got close then it rained. 1st go today, so 2nd attenot. Cool route!

Tomar 14/Oct/12 Lead RP

The Brean classic. Steep and powerful. Better than Chulilla

with brices
brices 13/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Tomar
Hidden 28/Sep/12 Lead dog
thomasadixon 22/Sep/12 TR

Very good climbing with a distinct crux, slight shame that you seem to go on to Pearl Harbour almost low down. Ill so not up for the lead this time, will need to come back for this.

alek 05/Sep/12 Lead dog
natalietanzer 02/Sep/12 Lead dnf
with nacnud
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead dog
Bristoldave 15/Jul/12 Lead RP
with Cusco
Kevster 26/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Repeat attempt.

Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead dog
iforwms 09/Jun/12 TR dnf
with Warner
Jon_Warner 09/Jun/12 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead dog
con321 20/May/12 Lead RP

Pretty cool feels hard as a warm up took about 4 goes

peaches69 20/May/12 Lead rpt

2nd go, good fall from crux on 1st. how can the majority vote on ukc get f7c, hard f7b/soft f7b+

with connor
Marti999 14/May/12 Lead RP

2nd redpoint,happy with that.

_m.cox_ 13/May/12 Lead rpt
with Robyn Nelson
_m.cox_ 13/May/12 Lead rpt
_m.cox_ 12/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead β
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead dog
Jon_Warner 10/Mar/12 Lead dnf
with Ivor
adam cooper*super* 03/Mar/12 Lead RP

good route, hard to onsight. but really good moves! 2 stars

brices 16/Feb/12 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13/Feb/12 Lead RP

Had a quick go yesterday and today put the draws in and got it third red point. Local guy reckon 7c for it. Fairly good route but went without too much pain

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 12/Feb/12 Lead dog
Justin T 11/Feb/12 Lead RP

Nearly onsighted, sketched out above 4th bolt, got it second go.

Hidden 11/Feb/12 Lead dog
iforwms 15/Jan/12 Lead dnf
jason82 13/Jan/12 Lead RP
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Cailean Harker 28/Nov/11 -
Glyn 06/Nov/11 Lead RP
with John
davidliu 24/Sep/11 Lead RP
with Martin Cleaver
drcorbasisgod 10/Sep/11 Lead dnf
dan gibson 15/Jul/11 Lead RP
with alley
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead RP
Ciro 11/Jun/11 Lead RP

Fantastic line - took three weekends of hard projecting, and felt hard in the grade, but then again bouldery routes isn't exactly my strong suit

with Ramon
Ramon Marin 11/Jun/11 Lead RP
with ciaran tracey
dmaldonado 08/Jun/11 2nd dog
nblackbeard 08/Jun/11 Lead dog

very much dogged :-p

thomb 04/Jun/11 -
Garrouli 08/May/11 Lead RP
with Pete
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead dnf
quiffhanger ?/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden 31/Mar/11 TR dog
Martin Cleaver 27/Mar/11 Lead RP

probably get 7b in Spain

peaches69 16/Mar/11 Lead RP

2nd go today, 1st go (puttin QD's in) fell off almost at 4th clip, got clean on the redpoint

with connor
peaches69 13/Mar/11 Lead dog

dogged up it 1st go moves felt pretty easy, had a go on top rope and made a mess of it! foot popped on the redpoint after crux section just before 5th clip! will go next time

with jack
Jon_Warner 12/Mar/11 Lead RP

Last chance before Spain.. Very Happy!

with Tom (Bristol Uni), Duncan
TomPR 12/Mar/11 Lead

Nice moves

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 06/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 22/Feb/11 Lead rpt

did 3 laps on it possibly even soft 7b+

Jon_Warner 20/Feb/11 Lead dog

Oh so close. 1 rest.

with Tom
Jon_Warner 19/Feb/11 Lead dnf


with Will Goldsmith
Jon_Warner 06/Feb/11 Lead dog

Every move, TR, not linked. Need to get on the lead!

with Tom
rubben 30/Jan/11 Lead RP

Clean this time!!! Phew...Hold loss (Jimmy) is just at first crux - apparently just after heel hook...? Great climb which deserves more attention in my opinion! Jan 2 degrees everywhere - felt more like 25 degrees at Brean - awesome sun trap!

with Marcus O'Leary
Hidden 29/Jan/11 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 09/Jan/11 TR dog

2 hard sections. Doable.

with Antony
Jon_Warner ??/2011 Lead dog
with Rich P
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead RP

good route

PaulTclimbing ??/2011 Lead
with Pete
Pippa 12/Dec/10 Lead RP
with Jon
tskelhon 06/Jun/10 Lead RP
with skeen
colesy 31/May/10 Lead RP

Cool route. Got it second go after working out a sequence on on the way back down from the os attempt.

tobydunford 16/May/10 Lead dog
catt 09/May/10 Lead RP

Really pleased to get this, top route, great sequences. Today was 5th day on it, 3rd of RPing, and it went 1st go on the day after a quick warm up! Chuffed.

with Richie
grey wolf 03/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Feb/10 TR dog
Richard Hall 14/Feb/10 Lead RP

1st redpoint today. Have tried in the past but today was the first time I tried it with a mind of actually doing it. Felt pretty easy for 7c. Probably top end 7b+. Don't think the quality is outstanding, bit too close to the 7a on the left.

with Anais
Hidden 08/Feb/10 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Jan/10 Lead RP
Luke d 01/Jan/10 Lead RP

definatly 3 stars and 7c first route in my 5.10 dragons brilliant moves

Luke Dawson 01/Jan/10 Lead RP

better than chulilla

Spacetourist ??/2010 Lead RP
with Dan Jenkin, james Marshall
Hidden ??/2010 -
tom harrison ??/2010 -
PaulTclimbing ??/2010 Lead
with Richard t
Hidden 22/Nov/09 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Nov/09 Lead RP
eddieclimb 20/Sep/09 Lead RP
James Marshall ?/Jul/09 Lead RP
Dan Jenkin ?/Jun/09 Lead RP
billb ?/Jun/09 Lead
richsmithinbristol ?/Jun/09 Lead
lx 10/May/09 Lead β

good route. Better than some of the other 2 star routes here. Hard for 7b+, 7c? (much harder than bull worker).

with Neil Edmunds
derico 18/Apr/09 Lead RP

A little boulder problem to a reasonable rest, then two other boulder problems linked without a real break.. making a quality route with really fun moves!

with Sadact
Hidden 15/Apr/09 Lead RP
Billg 11/Apr/09 Lead RP

1st RP. Great sequences... pumpy

with Susanne Richards
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 28/Feb/09 Lead dog
Jon_Warner 16/Feb/09 TR dog

One very powerful move and lots of hard bits either side

with Jonny
pezzerrr 24/Jan/09 Lead RP
gazhbo ??/2009 Lead RP
Hidden 08/May/08 Lead dog
Kev Little ??/2008 Lead RP
Jake Shaw ??/2007 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 24/Mar/06 Lead RP
with Mark Courtiour
Paul Robertson 25/Feb/06 Lead dog
with Paz
Paul Robertson 21/Feb/06 TR dog
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead RP
guy xavier percival 30/Jun/05 Lead RP
with paul
Dan Savory 14/May/05 Lead RP
Paz ?/May/05 Lead RP
with PE
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/03 Lead RP
with Adam Mulholland
John Southworth ?/Jul/03 -
with Bruno Marks
westyb3 ??/2003 Lead RP
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High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 71
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set