Rockfax Description
An excellent and much-attempted link-up. Start on the raised ledges just left of the gearing-up block.
Start up the fingery initial brown wall of Black Snake Moan and move right to finish up the pumpy top wall of Chulilla. © Rockfax

F Haden 22/Mar/1995

Ticklists: The road to 8a, West Country Climbs, Classic UK F7s, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, Brean Down Sports Climbs.

Ramon Marin 14/Jan Lead rpt
with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 16/Dec/17 Lead RP
with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 25/Nov/17 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
Alex N-R 23/Nov/17 Lead RP

2nd go, skipped the last clip which got Ron contemplating a run down the gully

with Ron
Ramon Marin 11/Nov/17 Lead rpt

Probably cos I've done it loads, but this feels like soft 7b+ considering i haven't sport climbed or trained for months.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 06/Nov/17 Lead RP
with Vicki Hau, Marti Hallett
Hidden ?/Sep/17 -
Wood for Trees 19/Aug/17 Lead RP

7c imo with the Chuilla rest, good precise climbing , look forward to trying the variation and black snake moan

with Flo Barton, Dougie
Tom Corras 03/Aug/17 Lead RP
Pippa 27/Jul/17 Lead RP
with afrosam
afrosam 27/Jul/17 Lead RP
with Pippa
Hidden 27/Jul/17 Lead dog
Wood for Trees 29/Jun/17 Lead dog

3 tie ins with last one a redpoint, got to rollover on last hard move of chuilla, slapping from the break upwards, great fun. Crux took some work, one hand move made all the difference

with Flo Barton
Harry Chaplin 16/Apr/17 Lead RP

2nd go having done Chulilla a few months a go. Great route!

with cal91
Hidden 01/Apr/17 TR dnf
Ramon Marin 11/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
Finley1234 18/Feb/17 Lead G/U
DorsetGareth 20/Jan/17 Lead dog

Foot popped off moving up from the break. Felt like it would have gone OK.

Ramon Marin 14/Jan/17 Lead rpt

Quick lap on it for training.

with viki harvey
nickmoulden ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Ace route, did a few times over the week.

with zoe bidula
AlexOates ?/Jul/16 Lead RP
grey wolf 20/May/16 Lead RP
drcorbasisgod 29/Apr/16 Lead β
with Scott Walter
Hidden 20/Apr/16 Lead
Mark Stevenson 19/Apr/16 2nd dog
tommccluskey 19/Apr/16 Lead RP
climbomaniac 02/Apr/16 Lead RP

almost flash. 2nd go. very cool.

Rosea Day 02/Apr/16 Lead
claudia Hesleden 25/Mar/16 Lead
Ramon Marin 06/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
Billg 28/Feb/16 Lead RP
with Will Calvert, Megan Beaumont
Caspian Johnson 23/Feb/16 Lead RP

pleased to bag this so early in season

ericinbristol 29/Dec/15 TR dnf

After a few sessions, a couple of moves still not quite there. Have to keep plugging away and it will go.

adlamixion 29/Dec/15 TR
Rory Bascombe 26/Nov/15 Lead RP
Kris suriyo 09/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Gary
Hidden 16/Jul/15 TR dnf
Hidden 04/Jun/15 TR dnf
brices 26/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Llinos
peaches69 12/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with luke
Luuuuuke 12/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Si
Hidden 18/Jan/15 Lead β
Hidden 28/Dec/14 Lead β
Holister 13/Dec/14 Lead RP

great climbing, flashed the start then messed up the top section. few attempts later and clipped the chains.

with lee
Hidden 08/Dec/14 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Dec/14 Lead β
yan hawkins 30/Nov/14 Lead RP
with _m.cox_
DrGav 11/Aug/14 TR dog

Stopped between underclings with thin skin / lack of beta / general weakness.

with Wendy
davidliu 05/Jul/14 Lead RP

Clips up, second go.

alek 01/Jun/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead RP
DJ Nelson 18/May/14 Lead RP

Used big rest at half way

with Jonathan Emett, Micaela Langellotti
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 23/Mar/14 Lead RP

first try had already climbed both sections soft...

Ramon Marin 16/Mar/14 Lead β

retro-flashed for training. Defo more in the 7c realm than 7c+

with viki harvey
Jon_Warner 11/Jan/14 Lead dnf

Felt much closer. Still can't get 'the move'.

with Jenni
Hidden 07/Dec/13 Lead dog
AJM 19/Nov/13 Lead RP

3rd session (had played on bits of it in years gone by too I guess), 4th redpoint. Fumbling about with the last clip nearly cost me dear! My gut says its likely 7c - you really can get everything back at that rest.

Hidden 26/Oct/13 Lead RP
davidliu 21/Sep/13 Lead dog

TR the bottom section a few times to get the sequence, one proper RP attempt but hadn't worked out the best rest and was still pumped going into the top half. Great moves and link up.

chrisscutt 31/Aug/13 Lead RP
with ant, oly
ollie_e 30/Aug/13 Lead dog

Got to the break feeling fresh, foot slipped as I clipped from the undercut. I realised I could definitely do this route soon, just need to keep trying.

ollie_e 29/Aug/13 Lead dog
Ramon Marin 23/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Done it today again for training and having a look at the 8a variation. Such a good route, and Brean was, as usual, the only place possible to climb in the whole south

with viki harvey
natalietanzer 18/May/13 Lead RP

Fell off top jugs of chullila on first attempt,finally went 4th go ,super pumpy!

Joe Innes 06/May/13 Lead RP

First 7c+!!! Awesome route!

Ellis Butler-Barker 19/Apr/13 Lead RP

First redpoint attempt but flashed the top section.

with JackMac
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead dog
Tomar 20/Feb/13 Lead RP

1st 7c+. Took longer and felt lot harder than any other 7c i have ever done. Soft maybe but still 7c+ imo. Really enjoyed projecting this

with Ross
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead RP
JM 17/Feb/13 Lead RP
with Pete Dickinson
i_a_coops ??/2013 -
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead dog
Bristoldave 23/Jun/12 Lead RP
tom169 09/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Darren
dan gibson 29/May/12 Lead RP
with julie carroll
peaches69 20/May/12 Lead RP

3rd go, def f7c

with connor
Martin Cleaver 19/Apr/12 Lead RP
with Dan Gibson
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Apr/12 Lead dog
Glyn 01/Apr/12 Lead β

First 7c+ flash! Very good climbing but soft.

with Ivor
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead dog
iforwms 01/Apr/12 2nd
with Glyn
Hidden 26/Mar/12 TR dog
Toby Dunn 21/Mar/12 Lead RP
with Alexis Perry
pezzerrr 16/Mar/12 Lead RP
Jordan B 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S


brices 19/Feb/12 Lead RP

2nd go really good, soft for 7c+

billb 27/Jan/12 Lead RP

Great route! Sent finally

Tris.w 27/Jan/12 Lead RP

1st redpoint today with a makeshift harness for the belayer!

with will boxen
quiffhanger 07/Jan/12 Lead RP

Second go, though I'd already done both bits on other routes. Still - suggests it's probably easy for the grade.

maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Wendy 31/Aug/11 Lead RP

Lovely moves all the way, and better than Chuillia.

Dan Jenkin 30/Jun/11 Lead RP

1st redpoint. great start & brilliant moves on the headwall, shame that it isn't more continuous. avoided the second pocket as it didnt feel nice & used the little crimp next to it. 7c

Ramon Marin 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with ciaran tracey
James Marshall ?/Mar/11 Lead RP

Great, but think it's 7c

Tom Heslam ?/Jan/11 Lead RP

Cold cold cold, but fairly easy for grade.

with Rosea
Cailean Harker ??/2011 Lead RP
colesy 12/Dec/10 Lead RP

Second go, awesome, maybe a little soft?

Richard Hall 15/Nov/10 Lead RP

A bit soft. Tried the start last winter and couldn't touch it. Was pleased to be able to do it straight away this winter. Still took 3 visits of falling off the hard move on Chulilla though!

with Chris Savage
Hidden 24/Apr/10 TR dnf
Luke d 07/Feb/10 Lead dog

tried with numb hands but felt not to hard

northerngreg 31/Jan/10 TR dnf

Pretty hard going. Wet pockets spiced the upper wall up a bit.

with Will Boxen
tom harrison ??/2010 -
Ricky Rocks 17/Oct/09 Lead RP
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead RP
eddieclimb 25/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Rebecca Edwards
bigie bob 17/Aug/08 Lead RP
Paz 15/Jul/08 Lead dog

Eventually did the sequence for the new version sans flake OK, but only in two, twice. Same grade I'd have thought.

with PR
Steve McQueen 15/Aug/07 Lead RP

two sessions to suss moves, first redpoint attempt

Paz 10/Apr/07 Lead dog

Instead of grabbing the last clip, this time I just let go.

with TS2, MT
Paz 21/Feb/07 Lead dog

Arse. Got in 3 sections maybe. Pocket a touch damp.

with AS
Paz 06/Dec/06 Lead dog

Got to last bolt and couldn't clip! Need to skip it really, then just not let go. Messed up getting into the crux pocket on second go and still did the crux but then faltered. Got on Chullila conscience though too, which was good.

with AS, AB, FM
Paz 30/Nov/06 Lead dog

"It should go", he says. Got through crux and sort of stopped at the scary bit.

with AS
Paz 25/Nov/06 Lead dog

Linked to the break again, and got the top of Chulilla sorted. Been given an easier sequence for both sections now. It should go.

with AS
Paz 18/Oct/06 Lead dog

Got some decent beta and actually linked it as far as the break. Then fell off the first hard move (to the pocket) of the `sit-down' version after hauling up the extra clips. Why I had to go and do that I don't know, I've got to bloody climb the lot now.

with AS
Paz 18/Jun/06 Lead dog

Belaying two successful redpoints didn't make it seem any easier, should've paid more attention on them. Neither did having redpointed Chulilla stop the top of it seeming harder than I remembered it.

with PS
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead RP
Jake Shaw ??/2006 Lead RP
Ally Smith ??/2006 -
westyb3 ??/2004 Lead RP
_m.cox_ ?/Oct/03 Lead RP
with Adam Mulholland
duffer ??/2003 Lead RP
27 users have this on their wishlist
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set