Rockfax Description
An entertaining and spectacular pitch. Start 6m right of the large block, as for El Chocco.
The right-hand line of bolts above the difficult start of El Chocco points the way up steep ground on good holds to a powerful finish rightwards, through the capping roof. © Rockfax

M J Crocker, M Ward 03/Jan/1987

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Brean Down Sports Climbs.

eddy-on-the-rocks 14/Jan Lead RP

I thought this was going to be my warm up until I got to roof.

with Gaz
wurzelinzummerset 03/Dec/17 TR dog

Worked out the move over roof with feet high under roof. Pulling up from the undercut needs some sorting.

with Andy
WillAndrew 26/Nov/17 Lead RP
with KatePG
DorsetGareth 26/Nov/17 Lead RP

Better than I was expecting, a few nice moves.

Hidden 26/Nov/17 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 18/Nov/17 TR dog

Clip sticked up it and tried all the moves. Doable up to the roof, but couldn't work out how to get my left hand over my right to the 2nd jug without falling off.

with Andy
Wise 18/Nov/17 Lead dog

Cheeky go at the end of the day. That nice through the roof's quite hard.

with Alan
TommyKips 12/Nov/17 TR dog
patrickcd 08/Nov/17 Lead dog
with Steve
just one more 08/Nov/17 Lead

Easy last time,weak as a kitten today!

with Patrick
Hidden 05/Nov/17 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Oct/17 Lead
Hidden 28/Oct/17 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Oct/17 Lead rpt
anthony henry 28/Oct/17 Lead RP
with tomar
Hidden 23/Sep/17 Lead dog
Andy Smallwood 19/Sep/17 Lead RP
Dale Comley 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S
seweryn 30/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Michael Bortoluzzi 19/Aug/17 Lead RP

1st 7a+. 2nd go.

with Maz (WCC), Richard Kendrick
Hidden 05/Aug/17 Lead dog
jas128 27/Jul/17 TR

First time working it. Have moved nailed, just need to put it all together on lead

Richard Kendrick 07/May/17 Lead RP
jamesbyrne 07/May/17 Lead β
DredStripe 29/Apr/17 Lead RP
Ian Bell 23/Apr/17 Lead dog

Heavily dogged, felt desperate. Clashing socks felt easier!

chris_woodsy 18/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Widdaz
John1458 17/Apr/17 2nd dnf

Couldn't get over the roof!

cal91 16/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Chaplin
chris85 ?/Apr/17 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Mar/17 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Mar/17 Lead RP
julesmckim 20/Feb/17 Lead dnf

Pleased to get up to the roof in the damp conditions. Layways and breaks pretty wet up there, but no excuses, just not enough beans for the top moves. 7a+ really?

with paul mccarthy
Rob Grant 18/Feb/17 -
Chris Redding 08/Feb/17 Lead RP

3rd go. Really fun moves through the roof.

Hidden 22/Jan/17 Lead RP
cal91 21/Jan/17 -
Harry Chaplin 21/Jan/17 Lead β

Flash after Callum put the draws in.

with cal91
littleluke 21/Jan/17 Lead
Hugobristol 18/Jan/17 Lead RP
with Liam
jonsey1995 18/Jan/17 Lead
Billg 27/Dec/16 Lead rpt
WillAndrew 04/Dec/16 Lead dog

Will be back for it one day!

with Ali
Russell Blackaller ?/Oct/16 Lead RP
with Justin
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead dog
Tom92 11/Aug/16 Lead RP
nickmoulden ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S


with zoe bidula
Stuart William 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt

2 goes today - I swear it felt harder than last time I climbed it!

with Si P
tom169 02/Jul/16 Lead β
afrosam 02/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Dean177 09/May/16 Lead RP

Second go, oh well.

Rosea Day 30/Apr/16 Lead RP
blaza1 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Dave Parsons, Sam Young, liam jones, Dan 85
Matt Cooke 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
La Mont 20/Apr/16 Lead β
with AlexD
AlexD 20/Apr/16 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 19/Apr/16 Lead dog
tommccluskey 19/Apr/16 Lead RP
Tomar 17/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Retro flash, fun route.

with "Henry"
Kris suriyo 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Gary
_m.cox_ 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Ron B
_m.cox_ 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Ron B
Coops_13 05/Mar/16 Lead RP

1st RP today

Billg 28/Feb/16 Lead rpt
with Megan Beaumont, Will Calvert
Jackislav 25/Jan/16 Lead dog

1 fall on roof move due to v.wet holds

Billg 16/Jan/16 Lead rpt

retro flash

with Ollie
Wood for Trees 16/Jan/16 Lead dog

dropped flash. Stretched out on the rollover move

with Malc Scott
hankyc 15/Jan/16 Lead RP
kingholmesy ??/2016 Lead β
with Jack
W d c ??/2016 Lead RP

Hard move.

with BILL G
Wise ??/2016 Lead RP
just one more 29/Dec/15 Lead RP

Retro flash, felt easy today. Nice climbing on good holds throughout

with Joe ukc
PaulTclimbing 15/Nov/15 Lead
with Didymus
Didymus 15/Nov/15 TR dog
with PaulTclimbing, Nick
Ollie B 25/Oct/15 Lead β

Tried before but no recollection. Bill filled me in with what to do. 1st go.

with B.Gregory
Hidden 22/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Rory Bascombe 22/Oct/15 Lead RP
RichyBOYY 17/Oct/15 Lead RP

put draws in and sent it - thuggy through the roof

with Callum H, Ash Barnes
AshBarnes 17/Oct/15 TR dnf

One rest up to the overhanging crux then lack of strength for the rest

with Ric
Kevster 11/Oct/15 Lead
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead RP
Cassidy 12/Sep/15 Lead β
Hidden 22/Aug/15 Lead RP
Albachoss 21/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Matt
Matt.c.Warner 21/Aug/15 Lead O/S
JackMac 15/Aug/15 Lead RP

Crossed over my right hand with the left at the crux. Glad it finally went so I never have to get back on this route!

shoulders 16/May/15 Lead dnf
with richard bennett, Pippa
Trisha Murphy 11/May/15 Lead dog
with Vikkie
GrantB 18/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Mike, Alpha Red
JackMac 23/Mar/15 Lead dog
JackMac 15/Mar/15 Lead dnf

Cruised up to the roof, then struggled with 'the move'. Hoping it will go when fresh...

Billg 07/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 07/Mar/15 TR dog
Hidden 01/Mar/15 Lead O/S
emilyrobyn ?/Mar/15 Lead

fell of crux

Trisha Murphy 27/Feb/15 Lead dnf

Big move. Will get it eventually :)

PeterDawson 21/Feb/15 Lead O/S
wilkinscl 08/Feb/15 2nd
with Caleb
Kemics 08/Feb/15 Lead dnf

Made the pocket and the cross through move but couldn't work out what to do with my feet after. Not enough beans to finish with power

with Corin
BC 04/Feb/15 Lead RP
Billg 01/Feb/15 Lead rpt
with Megan Beaumont
tedj234 11/Jan/15 Lead RP
with Kate
Andy Smallwood 06/Jan/15 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Dec/14 Lead
Hidden 29/Dec/14 Lead β
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Michelle W 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
lewiz 01/Nov/14 Lead β

This must be easier for lankers like me.

with Radek
RadekNowak 01/Nov/14 Lead RP

2 RP, should have been 1st..!

Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead dog
LucasHarazin 23/Aug/14 Lead RP
TomJ 08/Jul/14 Lead RP

Just as the sun was setting - perfect evening!

with derico
derico 01/Jul/14 Lead β

Had done first boulder problem before when doing the 7c. Cool route

with Tom Jordan
TomJ 01/Jul/14 Lead dog
with derico
Mowglee 09/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Ali
Mowglee 09/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Ali
Mowglee 09/Jun/14 TR dog
with Ali
just one more 25/May/14 Lead dog
with steve f
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 26/Mar/14 Lead RP
with tim croudace
jonleighton 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
DorsetGareth 15/Mar/14 Lead dog

Couldn't do the top moves.

Holister 09/Mar/14 Lead RP
with pete, andy, lee
jonleighton 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Stuart William 05/Mar/14 Lead RP

2nd go after quickly working out the moves as a warm up. Was expecting it to take much longer so a happy bunny.

Paul_southgate68 04/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Soooooo close to the on-site!''

with Mike Goldthorp
richiebongo 01/Mar/14 Lead RP

1st redpoint after a go the other week. Not too bad once i sussed the crossover move.

with Ra, Nick Smith
Hidden ?/Mar/14 Lead
stevoland ?/Mar/14 Lead RP
_m.cox_ 16/Feb/14 Lead rpt
with Al Sarhan, Ben West
afrosam 16/Feb/14 Lead RP
with DaveX
JM ??/2014 Lead O/S
JM ??/2014 Lead O/S
i_a_coops ??/2014 -
Hidden 08/Dec/13 Lead dog
Ally Smith 23/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with Jimbo, Tom Gibbison
Alex Winter 22/Nov/13 Lead β

Flashed on Helen's draws and with Nick's beets. Probably easier for the tall.

with Nick
Hidden 22/Nov/13 Lead RP
Nick Russell 22/Nov/13 Lead RP

Just missed the flash attempt, quick RP. Fun moves over the roof.

danmullett 12/Nov/13 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Oct/13 Lead
Ellis Butler-Barker 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Pretty good climbing actually

El3ctroFuzz 12/Oct/13 -

*Roof | Easy climbing up to the roof, so a bit soft.

with Elaine Budden
mikeshewring 05/Oct/13 Lead RP

2nd go

tobydunford 29/Sep/13 Lead RP
with Tomar
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead dog
chrisscutt 18/Aug/13 Lead RP
with oly
ollie_e 18/Aug/13 Lead β

Flash, easy to the roof, then big reaches.

Adam Booth 11/Aug/13 Lead dog

Cool route.

Ricky Rocks 14/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Ant
Coops_13 10/Jun/13 Lead dog

Nice moves though too powerful for me at the end of a trip

Ian Ash 01/Jun/13 Lead RP
Stefan Kruger 18/May/13 Lead RP
3 Names 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Ed Bulman
Hidden 19/Apr/13 Lead β
Be Fuller 18/Apr/13 Lead RP

so nearly an onsite...nice big moves at the top!

Jeronimo 30/Mar/13 Lead β
Hidden ?/Mar/13 -
drcorbasisgod 19/Feb/13 Lead RP
with Marc Weisner
BeccaSnowden 01/Dec/12 Lead RP
with Tom
thomasadixon 01/Dec/12 Lead RP
with Becca
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead β
Stanley 30/Aug/12 Lead RP

Brilliant route, probably my favorite on the crag due to the awesome pockets on the top section. Think the smaller climbers might have to find different ways to do it and it might be harder for them. Bottom is quite easy to fall off though I thought.

with Jim
Elaine Budden 19/Jul/12 Lead RP
with Cherry Bedford
Luuuuuke 09/Jul/12 Lead RP
with Si
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd 29/May/12 Lead RP

Felt hard to me, fair at 7a+. Missed the holds over the roof first go, sequence is not too obvious. It felt easy enough second go though, once I knew what to do

with Nicola
con321 27/May/12 Lead RP

2nd go soft 7a+? Wicked route well worth doing

Hidden 12/May/12 Lead RP
alek 12/May/12 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 12/May/12 Lead rpt
_m.cox_ 12/May/12 Lead rpt
yan hawkins 12/May/12 Lead RP
with Donald 'Big Boy' Birchall
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead
dan gibson 19/Apr/12 Lead RP
with julie carroll
Martin Cleaver 19/Apr/12 Lead β


with Dan Gibson
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead β
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead dog
Jon_Warner 25/Mar/12 Lead dog

Sharp holds and very thuggy. Felt hard. not for me.

with Jenni
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead RP
Bates 21/Mar/12 Lead RP
pezzerrr 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Pippa 19/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Gareth
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 11/Feb/12 Lead
Justin T 11/Feb/12 Lead β
Hidden 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S
John Mcshea ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunn
Jay81 14/Jan/12 Lead RP
with Tomar
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 26/Dec/11 Lead dog
JKinsella 17/Dec/11 Lead RP

I don't think this is height dependent, I'm not particularly short but it wasn't reachy at all. Very soft 7a+.

westyb3 04/Dec/11 Lead rpt
with Tom Harrison
Tris.w 30/Nov/11 Lead RP

6a+ to v3 or so

with Tomar
Cailean Harker 28/Nov/11 -
jgustafsson 13/Nov/11 Lead dog

Failed onsight at the end of a long day - powered out on the poor undercut in the roof. Surely can't be 7b.

with Ian
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Nov/11 Lead dog
Glyn 06/Nov/11 Lead β
with Tom Skelhon
westyb3 04/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Heather Ogston
oggles ?/Nov/11 TR dog
drcorbasisgod 10/Sep/11 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 03/Sep/11 2nd dog
Wendy 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

Second go

Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead β
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 11/Jun/11 Lead RP
with ciaran tracey
Ciro 11/Jun/11 Lead RP

Nice line, and hard to onsight with the blind move at the crux, but not 7a+

with Ramon
will smith11 02/May/11 Lead O/S
with Buster
Hidden 01/Apr/11 Lead dog
quiffhanger ?/Apr/11 Lead RP
peaches69 16/Mar/11 Lead rpt

coming ova the roof used a shite left hand near el chocco and manteled, seen sum people before heelhooking, where they did that i'll never know! didn't realise it crosses over rightwards to more jugs. got 2nd go.

with connor
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Tomar 05/Mar/11 Lead RP

Finally nailed this roof! 1st attempt of my 4th visit, on someone else's clips. Still feels like a 7b to me.

jimmatthews 05/Mar/11 Lead β


Tom Heslam ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Hidden 27/Feb/11 Lead RP
Greg Pittam 27/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Keltie
Tim M 26/Feb/11 Lead RP

second go - not very hard once you know where the holds are

with Steve W
Hidden 19/Feb/11 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Feb/11 Lead dnf
Pippa 12/Dec/10 Lead
with Jon
Hidden 09/Dec/10 Lead β
brices 05/Dec/10 Lead RP
Ricky Rocks 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt
tskelhon 24/Oct/10 Lead RP
with skeen
Hidden 18/Sep/10 TR O/S
J.Wells 06/Aug/10 Lead β
with Kev, Gordon Wright
Kevster 06/Aug/10 Lead
dean79 13/Jun/10 TR dog
Luke Dawson 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 07/May/10 Lead RP
with douglas
Bristoldave 01/May/10 Lead dog
with douglas
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Apr/10 Lead dnf
benbroche 06/Feb/10 Lead rpt

4th go i think - a bit morhpo/height dependent, definitely 7b for me...who cares though, such cool moves through the roof! brean is awesome - psyched!

archiecb 01/Feb/10 Lead β

Seems to be a bit morpho - I am quite tall so I found it easy and flashed it. My partner (who climbs easily hard enough to do this) found it quite hard and felt definitely 7b.

Luke d 17/Jan/10 TR

should have flashed

Richard Hall 17/Jan/10 Lead β

Flash. Pretty easy for 7a+.

with Gaz
Skeen ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Dr Caterpillar 15/Nov/09 Lead dog

not enough power

with Will Goldsmith, Doug
Hidden 15/Nov/09 Lead β
Dan Jenkin ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
James Marshall ?/May/09 Lead RP
with Tom Ball
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead β
Jon_Warner 18/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Tried to go direct after roof. Would be very difficult. Will look for holds out right next time!

eddieclimb 01/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Rebecca Edwards
_m.cox_ ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2008 Lead RP
Marti999 13/Nov/07 Lead RP
Billg ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Susanne Richards
g2 15/Feb/07 Lead

There is no way its 7a+, with a hands free rest.

g2 ??/2007 -
lx 16/Sep/06 Lead


with fat boy
Hidden 08/Sep/06 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 17/Mar/06 Lead RP

Excellent finish.

Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Jake Shaw ??/2006 Lead RP
Ally Smith ??/2006 -
guy xavier percival 08/Jul/05 Lead RP
with paul
Paz ?/May/05 Lead RP

2nd day on.

with AS
John Southworth ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
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High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 62
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set