Avoid the final traverse right by finishing directly through the bulge via a long reach or a mini-dyno. Well protected, worthwhile and over in a jiffy (but not a pushover at the grade either).

Ticklists: CUMC Ticklist.

Pete Wimbush 31/Aug 2nd
with Chris Hindley
luke glaister 06/Aug Lead O/S

Class route. The start looks so blank. But it's all there. And the finish is quality. Great gear so u have to go for it. Shame it's not the proper route cause going right must be a cop out. 3*** all day long.

Roland stopps 24/Jun 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden 24/Jun Lead
ChristyCole 02/Jun Lead β
kierankeavy 23/May Lead dnf
DanielBryan 11/May 2nd
AndrewP 11/May Lead O/S
with Aaron owen, Daniel Bryan
wnicholson 10/May Lead dnf
RBeanland 06/May 2nd O/S
mihai 23/Apr 2nd
ACT 23/Apr 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 22/Apr 2nd O/S
with SJ
Ilia Nadyrbayev 14/Apr 2nd
Kirill 14/Apr Lead dog
with Ilia
mikeski 08/Apr Lead O/S
patrickcd 08/Apr 2nd rpt
with Yura
rosiehawker 08/Apr 2nd
RagingPuffin 06/Apr 2nd O/S
with Neil
riccynino 18/Mar Lead dog
Chris Sieradzki 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Bold start with one harder move, than it gets easy to overlap. Crux 5c move is easy. Just one pull on fingers and its over.

with Hooo
BenNorman 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S

LOvely stuff

ali.scott 06/Aug/16 2nd rpt
WillAndrew 06/Aug/16 Lead β
with Dave S, Ali
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
garywong 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Barney
Hidden 23/Jul/16 2nd β
steve-grigg 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Cerith
BarnDawg 23/Jul/16 2nd
with Gary
pasbury 21/Jul/16 2nd
robgixer 17/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd
ali.scott 03/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Soph
Bristol_Quornstar 24/May/16 2nd O/S

Sam led the normal route, but I fancied a spicy finish!

with Sam de Belder
ali.scott 15/May/16 Lead dog

totally misread the sequence and came off reaching for the jug. Gutted! Felt fine the second time.

with Soph
Hidden 15/May/16 2nd
eddy-on-the-rocks 08/May/16 Lead O/S
with Ellie
EllieWoods 08/May/16 2nd O/S
with Eddy Cool
tom.e 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Drewrockstarr 07/May/16 2nd dog

Did not rest in middle of climb contributed to dogged

with Sumee
will_benfold 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with Ian Maybury
eduardo 17/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Mark H
Graeme Hammond 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Great. Done original finish before. this is a much better finish and avoids taking you close to the HS, should probably just be the new normal finish at HVS/E1 5b. Not reachy if you stand on the obvious large footholds!!

Hidden 12/Mar/16 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with nick loc
ripper 12/Mar/16 Lead
with Matt Chap
TwofoZeus ??/2016 2nd O/S

Uncertain date, but done on second after the initial lead of the original No Musketeers

Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 Lead
jungle 25/Oct/15 Lead
tcn_2002 18/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
jordana86 11/Oct/15 2nd
marclloyd77 04/Oct/15 Lead
Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd
kirsten 31/Jul/15 2nd
with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with C May
C May 18/Jul/15 2nd dog
with Tim
eduardo 04/Jul/15 2nd rpt

Mark led this clean, it had been on his list for a while

with Mike D, Mark H
MD 04/Jul/15 2nd dog

Wasn't paying enough attention to the sequence.

with Mark H, Ed
cathymiller 27/Jun/15 2nd dog
phil456 23/Jun/15 2nd dog

Clean on the HVS 5a, fell on the direct finish.

with Graham M
andyjirvin 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Really happy with this, first lead of the day. Very enjoyable climb, the HVS part is very steady and on nice rock. Plenty of gear. The E1 part is also well protected and has just a couple of hard moves on small holds to a big jug. Great fun.

afrosam 25/May/15 Lead O/S
gingerbex 16/May/15 2nd O/S

direct finish tough, but the indirect looks tougher!

Slick 16/May/15 Lead
Kemics 27/Apr/15 2nd rpt

harder than i remembered. Replaced the tat on tree.

with Pete, Dan
Lil_Pete 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S

After hearing someone clatter off it earlier in the day, taking the lob, felt I had to do the direct finish! Much more satisfying but whoa long way to that hold for a shorty!

cwildblood 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with owen gibson
Hidden 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/15 2nd O/S
George Frisby 12/Apr/15 2nd dnf

Couldn't make the final reach for the jug, not enough strength.

steve_gibbs 12/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead β
RichyBOYY 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ben M
Eagertom ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Direct finish is hard but safe and truly satisfying.

with Laura Shaw
laurashaw 18/Feb/15 2nd
wilchivs 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd
David Maddison 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hulda 21/Sep/14 Lead
with Andi
Neil 13/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
3 Names 31/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Kemics 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Guide does say easier for the tall but felt like HVS 5b to me. Only one 5b move and very well protected. Nice way to end the route.

BicycleBradley 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Joris.Roulleau 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

bomber gear all the way. Lovely steep section to start. Being tall I succumbed to the temptation to stretch myself at the crux to reach the jug with my feet in a low secure position, meaning I climbed it clean but not very elegantly.

Quarryboy 24/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Direct finish seems more logical although I guess with it definitely being quite a bit harder than the rest of the route it isn't mega inkeeping. Great climbing all the way and well protected with wires, my favourite of the three main HVS lines.

Stanners 24/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Seemed more logical to go direct anyway. Not too bad for the tall and bomber gear! Even more enjoyable than cavaliers !

with Andy G, James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Didymus 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Had a look 4 years ago but had run out of small nuts so bottled and did traverse version instead

with Rich
bpmclimb 26/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 26/Jun/14 2nd
Dave Thompson 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
sara n 17/May/14 2nd O/S
with Neville Contractor
bonelessivar 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd
mes32 13/Apr/14 Lead β
with Aileen
Hidden 19/Mar/14 Lead
pheotleyr 19/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Seemed more like HVS 5b to me on second.

with Pete
Hidden 25/Nov/13 2nd O/S
tomhull 04/Sep/13 2nd β
with Stephen Cumberland
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
zcsharp 18/Aug/13 Lead dog
gregclarke 13/Aug/13 2nd
with Brian
bpmclimb 13/Aug/13 Lead rpt
matt.jj 02/Aug/13 Lead
Dave Mahon 02/Aug/13 2nd rpt

Easy E1. Small nut high in crack, the crux is over in a jiffy.

duncan 30/Jun/13 2nd
alastairbegley 25/Jun/13 Lead

Argh, another e1 with a single frustrating fall

with Chris Begley, Julia Begley
Hidden 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Abi Chard 21/Jun/13 Lead β
with Ian
Hidden 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Duncan Turner 12/Jun/13 Lead
tommccluskey 12/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Duncan
Quirina 01/Jun/13 2nd dog

Failed on last bit (direct ascent). Ran out of hand holds.......It would have helped if I was a bit taller :-)

with Paul Osborn
Dave-Westlake 18/May/13 -
Dave Mahon 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Put 4 small wires in. A couple of hard moves then it's all over

with Brian Mead
Paraicj 05/May/13 2nd O/S

First E1 seconding

Phil Murray 05/May/13 2nd dog

1st route of day, wasn't up to the crux so had a quick sit down :)

with Steve Wright
ellmang 05/May/13 Lead

First E1 :) - had to rest on the crux but loved every minute. At 5'6 I didn't find it that reachy. Amazing gear all the way - bring lots of wires!

steve_gibbs 05/May/13 Lead O/S
George Frisby 05/May/13 2nd
Dean177 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Left my climbing shoes, just decided to go in my trainers anyway, a single tricky move(not reachy if you move your feet up!) with gear at waist height. Ana seconded cleanly, jody opted for the pendulum traverse.

with Jody Claridge, Jenni B, Ana_B
Neil McA 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jake McAdie
fatbuoybazza 28/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Finished between the E1 & HVS

with deborah
Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd
Chubbard 28/Apr/13 2nd
with Mark C
mes32 28/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Wilki
evhall 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

definitely not 5C if you are taller...

with Fletch
AJM 07/Apr/13 2nd rpt
misterb 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S

a couple of tricky moves

with tom
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
67hours 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Not quite the line I was going to take when I started the route. Quite a long reach for someone so short. Also rather run out, as I kicked the small nut out doing the final move.

with Becky H
RileyJ 22/Sep/12 Lead
simeclimb68 19/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Ali.B 17/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with MikeDinsdale
Hidden 17/Sep/12 Lead β
mattshort 16/Sep/12 Lead
with Phil Porter, Dave West
ericinbristol 02/Sep/12 Lead rpt

17th of 17 routes in 6 hours.

with Johnny S
Tom Hill 30/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
matjam 27/Jul/12 2nd O/S
mattgrange 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Great gear for some faaaairly reachy top moves, great route all round.

Luuuuuke 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Si
Cat Hendrie 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

At 5ft 2 without a long reach or the desire to dyno on lead, some tenuous smears and determination got me through the crux. Definitely 5C for the short! Amazing route.

richardashe 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S

This is not 5C - far too easy.

rurp 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S

very well protected, great route

mjeffery 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Ando
Hidden 20/May/12 2nd
mullermn 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt

Don't think I really qualify as 'tall', but I possibly lose half a tech grade for lack of style - reached up on highest limit of tip toes and hooked the hold and then kicked and scraped upwards.

chris sm 02/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Damien ?
missxandrabee 30/Mar/12 2nd dog

the one where steve didn't notice the crucial hold on the 5c part

with Steve
stevorobs3 30/Mar/12 Lead β
with Xandra
pearson9596 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 30/Mar/12 2nd β

Took some convincing to do the finish

clams ??/2012 Lead
with Toby
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 11/Oct/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 11/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Helen S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
stvredmond 24/Sep/11 Lead

so much more worthwhile than the original. small nuts protect

with kelwyn
Shaky Dog 24/Sep/11 2nd dog
Andy Clarke 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Excellent line with this finish. No chance of a 'long reach' at my height!

with Alex
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead β
Hidden 12/Aug/11 2nd O/S
MD 10/Jul/11 2nd
with Mark H, Ed
riddle 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S


with Yasmina
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd
eduardo 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

I think I seconded this a few years ago with Misha, so only a "more or less" onsight. Found the moves fine after sticking a few wires in. Got attacked by the wasps nest a couple of metres left at the top, they left me alone when I shuffled down and right slightly from the belay point.

Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Binder 02/Jul/11 2nd dog
with JT
BeccaSnowden 27/Jun/11 Lead rpt

What reach? I'm 5"2 and had no problem - use your feet! Definitely so much better to do the direct.

CRiddiford 27/Jun/11 2nd
with Becca
Marti999 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Anna
AlexRenshaw 23/May/11 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Monk 21/May/11 Lead O/S
mullermn 21/May/11 2nd dog

Really enjoyed this even more this time. Tried direct finish and came off. Possibly my favourite route in this part of the crag.Think I have the moves worked out now.

with Monkey
Fred_Richard 19/May/11 Lead O/S

Very good route!E1(5C) long reach at the top can be protected with a small micro nut. My second E1 to date.

with Andy Mccoy, Nathan
AndyMcCoy 19/May/11 2nd dog
with Nathan, Fred
Nathanrobinson 19/May/11 2nd
with Frederic Richard & Andy McCoy
alj 01/May/11 2nd
with leon skeldon
leon 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Messed about for ages getting gear in before going for the crux. Found the crux moves easy once I finally committed.

Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Simon Allcock 19/Apr/11 2nd
mark schramm 19/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with si
Rich A-Wilkes 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Dale
dean79 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Lovely climb. Didn't think crux was too bad and I'm only 5'10" (edit apr 2014 - turns out I'm only 5'9" haha)

Dale ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with rich
guy xavier percival 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with paul
bpmclimb 21/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with James Lane
Stone Muppet 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with ah
peaches69 17/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Matt Johnson 17/Oct/10 2nd β

Couldn't finish direct last time but nailed it today

marclloyd77 17/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 19/Sep/10 2nd O/S
ElvisLeg 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Mike Grant
Herron 16/Sep/10 Lead O/S

This was my first ever E1 Lead

with Shane Underwood
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
scoot 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with The Chairman, Becky Athay
peaches69 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S

really nice climbing throughout, bit of a reach for a shorty (5'9") near the top

with matt, sarah
rob1 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Alex Wellings
Jessie Rushbrooke 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with GF
Hidden 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Mark Davies PK 06/Jul/10 2nd rpt
with Tradlad
jhawton 06/Jun/10 Lead dog

Was being stupid and not watching my feet! Fell off and might have jammed a size 1 nut in a crack...sorry!

with danJBA
danJBA 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Garron 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/10 2nd
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead β
chris sm 23/May/10 Lead rpt
with Paul Osborn
ian d f 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Grace Chuchla
Paul Bowen 15/May/10 Lead rpt
with rob jenkins, John Crane
al99 03/May/10 Lead O/S
martinazando 03/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 -
benscarter ?/May/10 TR
stuart34 24/Apr/10 2nd
Sam W 24/Apr/10 Lead
with Nina Jenkinson
JWB 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S


jon_gill1 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/10 2nd
DanH9883 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Lee
peggy_on_the_rocks 07/Apr/10 2nd dog
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
chalkiesurf ??/2010 -
The Ivanator 18/Oct/09 2nd

Mostly interesting VS climbing with one much harder move near the top. A nice route.

with Guy, Sean
Perryman 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with GUY DAVENPORT, Ivan Bicknell
duzinga 05/Sep/09 2nd O/S

pete should have gone up this. satisfying finish.

with Gary, Pete
JimR 11/Aug/09 2nd
with Guy
The Reaper 09/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead
shoulders 31/May/09 Lead
with dai
Hidden 31/May/09 2nd O/S
poey50 30/May/09 Lead O/S

Superb route.

with Rowan15
3 Names 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Dan H
Danhan 23/May/09 2nd
with Steve
Dan_Carroll 23/May/09 2nd O/S
with Eric Herring
mark89 05/May/09 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 16/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Direct finish is well worthwhile, as others have said no need for any dyno/long reach.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 16/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Tom
chris sm 15/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
summo ??/2009 -
bpmclimb 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Dyno not necessary - I'm not that tall and managed it static.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 07/Dec/08 2nd
chris sm 01/Nov/08 2nd rpt
with Paul Osborn
just one more 23/Oct/08 Lead
with Svenn G
Tim W 22/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Mark Walter, Marina Unterfosthuber
Mark Walter 22/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Tim Wilkinson
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead
leigh 18/May/08 2nd dog

Direct finish gave me grief

with Ed
Bristoldave 17/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Caroline
CarolineH 17/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Dave
Wilbur 30/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with Morgan
Eccentric 29/Jan/08 Lead dog

Nice and easy up until the bulge, rushed the moves so missed vital foot holds! Get it clean next time.

with Lois
Hidden ??/2008 -
Owen W-G 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Tony Seale
Hidden 12/Aug/07 2nd O/S
SamStokes 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Really good climbing! Gear is immaculate!

featuresforfeet 19/May/07 2nd O/S
with Clive M
kenneM ?/May/07 2nd
with Booby Hewitt
David Martin 14/Apr/07 Lead dog

Lovely climb, amazingly well protected crux (which I fell on).

with Chris
Kirill 24/Mar/07 2nd
cem 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
max_chan 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Chuck
Hidden 28/Sep/06 2nd O/S
dan gibson 28/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with chris broadly
DrGav 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Only a couple of 5c moves. Amazing pro.

with Wendy
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Dave Latimer 23/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
beardy mike ??/2006 -
sam8oy 18/Sep/05 Lead O/S

First part is straight forward, top was a bit more tricky.

with John
BruceW ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Jen
Simon Caldwell 27/Jun/04 2nd dog

my excuse for faffing and resting was it was pouring with rain by the time it was my turn!

with Ian A
Brucifer 01/Jun/04 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 2nd
drysori ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with StephC
Will Homoky 16/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Dawn Forbes
Hidden 08/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead β
Woody63 03/Apr/03 2nd
with Dave W
Hidden 03/Apr/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
chris sm ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Dom Goodridge
pezzerrr 05/Sep/01 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 25/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Cedric Favre, Martin Flint
lost.arrow 04/Mar/00 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
ericinbristol ??/2000 Lead β
with Christine
PaulTclimbing ??/2000 Lead
with An N, Trelewis gang, Neville, Pete n Nona et al, Rich T
Hidden 15/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/99 Lead O/S
Roget 09/May/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Tim Sparrow ??/1998 2nd
with Geoff Thomas
Nigel Coe ??/1998 Lead
roncaves 05/Apr/97 AltLd
with Gavin Williams
Rog Wilko ?/Oct/95 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
goi.ashmore 14/Aug/95 Lead RP
with Dee Herbert
Mark Salter 14/Mar/95 Lead dog
with Chris Shorrock
AndySL ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Pete H
Backinthegame ?/Jun/93 Lead
with Lynn Wilkins, John Wright
Guy ?/May/93 Lead O/S

Forgot rock boots so led it barefoot. Nice route with bomber gear. Not really sure why it says long reach or dyno though? I am only 5'4 and did it statically.

RichardMc 27/May/92 2nd
with John Evans
sdht ??/1992 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/91 -
with Ali W
Hidden 27/Oct/90 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 01/Jul/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Forbes
Hidden 07/Jun/90 2nd
GordonHart ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Clare Hart
mark-abz 06/Aug/89 Lead
with Phill R
Hidden ?/May/89 2nd
Tony Buckley ?/Oct/88 Lead
No? Yes! 30/Aug/87 Lead

Peter C and Peter L

sadams 16/Apr/87 2nd
with Guy Townsend
Steve Lewis 24/Mar/85 Lead O/S
with Morty, Clive Curle
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 75
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set