Rockfax Description
Exposed and atmospheric climbing that traces a line up the side of a deep inlet and finishes with a breathtaking stride over the void. At the far east end of Flake Ledge is a narrow zawn that has a wide corner crack in its west wall, start here. Climb the awkward corner to a roof and step right to below a crack. Climb the crack with difficulty to another overhang and move right to above the zawn. Bridge out right and pull up to easier ground that leads to the top and stake belays. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the descent down climb (or abseil) walk left (facing out) until the ledges end at a Zawn. Start at last obvious corner crack before the Zawn. Climb the corner to a resting point then step right and ascend a crack between two protruding blocks until halted by a roof, move right again and enjoy the exposure as you step across the Zawn, a final stiff move up gains easier ground and the top.
Update 2 Sep 18: Loose, precarious, wobbly blocks and evidence of recent rockfall in top third. Climbing not advisable.

A Hall and partner 1971

Ticklists

Orange Spot Swanage, SPA Training Minimum Requirement

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
buffclimbymatthew 31 Mar Lead
Matt Smith 28 Mar Lead O/S Very atmospheric and a little mini adventure, some loose blocks at finish.
Very atmospheric and a little mini adventure, some loose blocks at finish.
Hidden 28 Mar 2nd
Hidden 24 Feb 2nd O/S
ARiches 24 Feb Lead O/S Step of death!!
Step of death!!
elahowson 24 Feb 2nd β
cem 7 Oct, 2018 2nd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
wild_nomad 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Wow. What a climb! A genuine adventure packed in to a single pitch. A truly spectacular climb that keeps on giving like a mini Boulder Ruckle. Not sure why it's only 2 stars. 3 Star route all the way!
with emma
Wow. What a climb! A genuine adventure packed in to a single pitch. A truly spectacular climb that keeps on giving like a mini Boulder Ruckle. Not sure why it's only 2 stars. 3 Star route all the way!
with emma
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
khalidq 19 May, 2018 2nd O/S Escaped direct through unstable rock pile.
with David Barlow, Suzy Howat
Escaped direct through unstable rock pile.
with David Barlow, Suzy Howat
Hidden 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S
merlin138 5 May, 2018 2nd O/S
Bob M 27 Oct, 2017 Lead
Hidden 27 Oct, 2017 2nd
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 Lead
pelvoux 5 Aug, 2017 2nd
with JerDon
with JerDon
AngelaC 13 May, 2017 - Rick went a bit off route at the top mading a direct finish over a strenuous overrhang - felt like HVS
Rick went a bit off route at the top mading a direct finish over a strenuous overrhang - felt like HVS
Hidden 8 Apr, 2017 Lead
Bob M 2 Nov, 2016 Lead
with Harry Cripps
with Harry Cripps
Hidden 29 Oct, 2016 Solo O/S
hfotheri 12 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with simon
with simon
tsyrett 12 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
cdpuk 10 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S After being chased off other routes due to the sea. Slightly terrifying belaying in the zawn. Good exposure.
with JulianB
After being chased off other routes due to the sea. Slightly terrifying belaying in the zawn. Good exposure.
with JulianB
Hidden 10 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Philoosh 6 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Guy Lowndes 1 Aug, 2015 Lead VS all the way!
with Mark Deketelaere
VS all the way!
with Mark Deketelaere
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 2nd dog
Buccaneerbilly 21 Jun, 2015 2nd Chris had a bit of a head game at the start as it was a bit greasy, Mike offered some advice as he neared the top.
with Chris Lodge
Chris had a bit of a head game at the start as it was a bit greasy, Mike offered some advice as he neared the top.
with Chris Lodge
tombushell 13 Jun, 2015 2nd
Sam Husband 13 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S One of my favourite VS's to date. Also quite hard for VS, especially when the waves have saturated the start.
One of my favourite VS's to date. Also quite hard for VS, especially when the waves have saturated the start.
tonevert 22 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 22 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 21 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
mikehenesy 21 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Good fun in the sun! Beware attempting to finish off by going over the second overhang, it's mostly disconcertingly hollow sounding, apart from when it's plain loose. Head right and under it towards the corner. Once over it there's good enough stuff there to belay from, then you won't leave your second hanging around at the bottom, out of sight, in the shade while he tries to get you to take in stuck slack ropes - sorry Rob.
with Rob Gillman
Good fun in the sun! Beware attempting to finish off by going over the second overhang, it's mostly disconcertingly hollow sounding, apart from when it's plain loose. Head right and under it towards the corner. Once over it there's good enough stuff there to belay from, then you won't leave your second hanging around at the bottom, out of sight, in the shade while he tries to get you to take in stuck slack ropes - sorry Rob.
with Rob Gillman
brian watson 13 Aug, 2014 Lead rpt
with Paul Milton
with Paul Milton
leglesslizard ?Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
scott titt ??, 2014 -
Hidden 30 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
jamespilgrim 30 Jun, 2013 Lead dog Made a right mess of the traverse over the zawn by going too high, lowered off, then did it from the other end of the rope. Hardest VS 4c I have tried in a long while!
Made a right mess of the traverse over the zawn by going too high, lowered off, then did it from the other end of the rope. Hardest VS 4c I have tried in a long while!
clipskipper 29 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S Ridiculously exposed for a VS! Lots of fun nonetheless.
with Davey Boy
Ridiculously exposed for a VS! Lots of fun nonetheless.
with Davey Boy
Felix Ottey 8 Jun, 2013 2nd rpt
DreadyCraig 13 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S Major rope F*** up at the start, psyched me out for the rest of the climb
Major rope F*** up at the start, psyched me out for the rest of the climb
The Ivanator 13 Oct, 2012 Lead rpt Felt much easier second time around, but certainly solid at VS 4c.
Felt much easier second time around, but certainly solid at VS 4c.
Hidden 27 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
Joemanglerocks 30 Jun, 2012 2nd
TimKnight 30 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Hmmm... I made a mess of that. Struggled with the start then got the rope stuck pulling out of the roof, all while the waves were crashing on Paul below. Fun? I'm not sure
Hmmm... I made a mess of that. Struggled with the start then got the rope stuck pulling out of the roof, all while the waves were crashing on Paul below. Fun? I'm not sure
Felix Ottey 17 Jun, 2012 Lead Utterly Gripping and truly terrifing! Wonderful lead!!
Utterly Gripping and truly terrifing! Wonderful lead!!
mike.moss 3 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 13 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Andy Mosienko
with Andy Mosienko
The Ivanator 24 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Good positions, quite tough for the VS 4c it gets in the new Rockfax. Loved the step across the zawn, the pull up onto easy ground after that is a bit of a sting in the tail.
Good positions, quite tough for the VS 4c it gets in the new Rockfax. Loved the step across the zawn, the pull up onto easy ground after that is a bit of a sting in the tail.
Ybot Htulk 24 Mar, 2012 2nd
with Ivan
with Ivan
Marti999 12 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
scott titt 11 Jul, 2010 2nd
with Bob M
with Bob M
Bob M 11 Jul, 2010 Lead
with scott titt, Stewart Walker
with scott titt, Stewart Walker
Sophie Nunn 23 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
leonjones 23 May, 2009 2nd
with Des J
with Des J
Des J 23 May, 2009 Lead O/S whew! 4b?
whew! 4b?
Bob M 13 Apr, 2008 Lead
with Stewart Walker
with Stewart Walker
MontyH 3 Nov, 2007 Lead rpt
with Paul Milton
with Paul Milton
Hidden 7 Jul, 2007 2nd
Hidden 7 Jul, 2007 2nd
MontyH 7 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S great route, worth a couple of **
with Lee Lander
great route, worth a couple of **
with Lee Lander
Bob M 9 Apr, 2007 2nd
Norman_P_W 9 Apr, 2007 Lead
with Bob M
with Bob M
aged_ape ?Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with KM
with KM
Bob M 23 Jun, 2006 Lead
brian watson ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Gareth 5 Oct, 2003 Lead O/S
with lazza
with lazza
Ian JL ?Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
with Duncan Henderson
with Duncan Henderson
andybenham ??, 2001 -
tomkhoward 1 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
with SICMC
with SICMC
kylo-342 ?Apr, 1996 2nd
with Jason M
with Jason M
scott titt 24 Jul, 1990 -
Nigel Coe 24 Jul, 1990 -
12 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 17
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set