77m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An airy voyage taking in some of the Main Wall's best positions. The climbing is very sustained and some of it serious. Nevertheless, the gear - when present - is good. The first pitch is dangerously loose, however the original start to Malbogies provides a worthy alternative. Start at a small tree on a ledge down and right of Malbogies.
1) 5a, 23m. Move up the blunt rib on the left to a gap between two overhangs and pull up right into a corner. Climb the corner (very loose) to an overhang and bush (thread above). Pull over the overhang and move left to the shattered wall of Malbogies. Follow the wall and corner to the first stance of Malbogies.
1a) 5b, 23m. The Original Malbogies Start. From the Malbogies stance, move up a right-trending groove to a slim overhang and a peg. Pull over and climb the wall above with difficulty to a ledge. Continue as for Malbogies to its first stance.
2) 5b, 28m. Downclimb from the stance for 5m and traverse left on good holds before moving up to good small wires. Move left again and then down to a small overhung niche. Reach left to good holds and move up to a peg. Climb the excellent groove past a peg to the overhang and traverse left for 6m to a peg and large cam belay.
3) 5b, 26m. Traverse back right for 3m to a gap in the overhangs and make a puzzling move up to get established above them. Climb the groove and wall on its left past various pegs to an overhang and move out left around the blunt arete. Finish up the easier wall. © Rockfax

E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill 01/May/1966

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
elliotphillips43 28 Oct Show βeta
βeta: I heartily second the feedback from masa-alpin. Prepare for some bullshit gardening on one of the Avon's finest top-outs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I heartily second the feedback from masa-alpin. Prepare for some bullshit gardening on one of the Avon's finest top-outs.
masa-alpin 30 Aug Show βeta
βeta: P1 as described in Rockfax Southwest had a bush in the middle as of 2019 August. Malbogies Direct Start is OK. At the top, we had to go through horrendous (and painful) brambly bush as of 2019 August.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1 as described in Rockfax Southwest had a bush in the middle as of 2019 August. Malbogies Direct Start is OK. At the top, we had to go through horrendous (and painful) brambly bush as of 2019 August.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
tom.wp6 27 Oct AltLd O/S Traverse pitch. Pretty scary, but gear is generally good when you can find it. Pegs need some TLC. Last of the Extreme Rock Avon routes in the bag.
Traverse pitch. Pretty scary, but gear is generally good when you can find it. Pegs need some TLC. Last of the Extreme Rock Avon routes in the bag.
elliotphillips43 27 Oct AltLd O/S Led P1 & P3. Such a nice position to be in for an October Sunday afternoon! Started up the original P1 for Malbogies. Having now read various logs, I am pretty pleased we avoided P1 of the Preter. P2 (traverse) was the most challenging part of the climbing - gear is okay, but spaced. P3 looks uninspiring from below, but has plenty of character and some great positions. Grubby top-out through the brambles. Many concerned on-lookers !
with tom.wp6
Led P1 & P3. Such a nice position to be in for an October Sunday afternoon! Started up the original P1 for Malbogies. Having now read various logs, I am pretty pleased we avoided P1 of the Preter. P2 (traverse) was the most challenging part of the climbing - gear is okay, but spaced. P3 looks uninspiring from below, but has plenty of character and some great positions. Grubby top-out through the brambles. Many concerned on-lookers !
with tom.wp6
masa-alpin 19 Aug Lead O/S Via Malbogies direct start (P1 as described in Rockfax Southwest had a bush in the middle). There was enough poor gear in the P2 traverse, which gave the second a false sense of security LoL. The topout in bramble bush (in T-shirt) was horrendous… Were we the first party to climb this route this year?
with perrys
Via Malbogies direct start (P1 as described in Rockfax Southwest had a bush in the middle). There was enough poor gear in the P2 traverse, which gave the second a false sense of security LoL. The topout in bramble bush (in T-shirt) was horrendous… Were we the first party to climb this route this year?
with perrys
perrys 19 Aug 2nd dog One slip on P1 when I took the wrong way! No way ready to lead this, gear is so sparse.
One slip on P1 when I took the wrong way! No way ready to lead this, gear is so sparse.
Dave Cundy ?? -
JendeHoxar 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Stanners 30 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S comments from my 2012 attempt at the original pitch: "........not doing the actual pitch 1 of this route ever again. Had to lower off peg and thread. Looks amazing pitch 2 and 3 though so will return with alternate start." alternate start as per new crocker guide. What an awesome classic bold avon experience. Totally avon.
with Kyle87
comments from my 2012 attempt at the original pitch: "........not doing the actual pitch 1 of this route ever again. Had to lower off peg and thread. Looks amazing pitch 2 and 3 though so will return with alternate start." alternate start as per new crocker guide. What an awesome classic bold avon experience. Totally avon.
with Kyle87
Kyle87 30 Aug, 2018 2nd
aiyer 18 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Lead P1 & P3 - muchos fun, except for the top out which was less fun...
Lead P1 & P3 - muchos fun, except for the top out which was less fun...
JoeCoxson 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S 'That's so Avon' would be a fitting sitcom to this worrying bit of climbing. As described in the CC Avon guide. Never steep, nor desperate climbing, but the gear is often bad or simply non-existent. That said, positions are fantastic and a cracking evening adventure. Forgot my kit as well so had to climb in jeans.
with aiyer
'That's so Avon' would be a fitting sitcom to this worrying bit of climbing. As described in the CC Avon guide. Never steep, nor desperate climbing, but the gear is often bad or simply non-existent. That said, positions are fantastic and a cracking evening adventure. Forgot my kit as well so had to climb in jeans.
with aiyer
edgar 16 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Waldo Etherington
with Waldo Etherington
JendeHoxar 12 Nov, 2017 Lead dnf
with Flavio
with Flavio
J_Spooner ?Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S With Original start, Will had great fun....
with Ben Smart, Will Birkett
With Original start, Will had great fun....
with Ben Smart, Will Birkett
Andy Peak 1 15 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Feat melting in my boots on pich two. A very Avon experience
with J Doors
Feat melting in my boots on pich two. A very Avon experience
with J Doors
Avon Man 1 May, 2016 AltLd rpt
with Derek
with Derek
Hidden 2 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
Caspian Johnson 2 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S Nice little outing, bold but secure climbing. Lead p2. Highlights include Ollie having a wobble on p3 whilst i was asking if he had money for ice cream...
with ollie_e
Nice little outing, bold but secure climbing. Lead p2. Highlights include Ollie having a wobble on p3 whilst i was asking if he had money for ice cream...
with ollie_e
pearson9596 25 Mar, 2016 AltLd dog Hold came off in my hand :-(
with ian d f
Hold came off in my hand :-(
with ian d f
ian d f 25 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p1 (Malbogies old start) and p3. An interesting route.
Led p1 (Malbogies old start) and p3. An interesting route.
Bristoldave 23 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S Via Malbogies original start. Nice little expedition. Horrible top out!
with Ben
Via Malbogies original start. Nice little expedition. Horrible top out!
with Ben
Cheese Monkey 23 Dec, 2015 2nd O/S
danmullett 26 Oct, 2015 -
jacobjohncharles 16 Apr, 2015 AltLd β
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Avon Man 10 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S
with msoldn
with msoldn
msoldn 10 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead p1&3. Great route! Bit of extra juggy fun taking the final capping roof on p3 direct.
with Mark
Lead p1&3. Great route! Bit of extra juggy fun taking the final capping roof on p3 direct.
with Mark
eduardo 21 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S A relentlessy devious line, excellent technical climbing.
with Misha
A relentlessy devious line, excellent technical climbing.
with Misha
Misha 21 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S A great route. Did the Malbogies direct start. The crux of that took some figuring out, nicely technical. The shared section of Malbogies itself felt pretty run out in places for HVS 5a! Brilliantly crazy line on P2, hard to figure out where to go (little chalk on the route) and sustained technical interest throughout. Down, across, up, down, across, up, across! Belayed right below where P3 goes through the overhanging band, which was a good spot for protecting Ed on the traverse but not so great for P3 as there's hardly any gear on it and it was right above the belay. Wasn't too concerned though, nicely sustained 5b and 5a climbing but nothing desperate. There was an old peg and RPs about 5 metes above the belay and then another 5+ metres to where things eased off. An Avon classic and top end E2. Led all pitches.
with eduardo
A great route. Did the Malbogies direct start. The crux of that took some figuring out, nicely technical. The shared section of Malbogies itself felt pretty run out in places for HVS 5a! Brilliantly crazy line on P2, hard to figure out where to go (little chalk on the route) and sustained technical interest throughout. Down, across, up, down, across, up, across! Belayed right below where P3 goes through the overhanging band, which was a good spot for protecting Ed on the traverse but not so great for P3 as there's hardly any gear on it and it was right above the belay. Wasn't too concerned though, nicely sustained 5b and 5a climbing but nothing desperate. There was an old peg and RPs about 5 metes above the belay and then another 5+ metres to where things eased off. An Avon classic and top end E2. Led all pitches.
with eduardo
gripped01 6 Sep, 2013 AltLd Wish I read the other route comments before climbing the route. My partner took a 35' fall on the first pitch. 3-4m above peg when hold gave way and he ended up 8-9m below it. Got up and went again though. I led 2nd and 3rd pitch, climbing was brilliant Gorge material. Do not climb the first pitch unless you want that really 'out there' experience.
with Jim Jarvis
Wish I read the other route comments before climbing the route. My partner took a 35' fall on the first pitch. 3-4m above peg when hold gave way and he ended up 8-9m below it. Got up and went again though. I led 2nd and 3rd pitch, climbing was brilliant Gorge material. Do not climb the first pitch unless you want that really 'out there' experience.
with Jim Jarvis
Alex Winter 18 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 and 3. Really good. The climbing is quite intricate and difficult to read in places, although feels ok once figured out.
with Nick
Led pitches 1 and 3. Really good. The climbing is quite intricate and difficult to read in places, although feels ok once figured out.
with Nick
Nick Russell 18 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S I led p2, Alex pitches 1 and 3. Very intricate climbing, technically sustained but mostly in balance and not at all strenuous. Classic Avon.
I led p2, Alex pitches 1 and 3. Very intricate climbing, technically sustained but mostly in balance and not at all strenuous. Classic Avon.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S E2, pushing E4 elsewhere in the country. Mildly terrifying gear situations on P2 - very peggy!
with Tim Neill
E2, pushing E4 elsewhere in the country. Mildly terrifying gear situations on P2 - very peggy!
with Tim Neill
jcw ??, 2013 -
Aaron Lines 10 Oct, 2012 AltLd
with martin
with martin
BeccaSnowden 30 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1 (Malbogies direct start) and pitch 3. Interesting climbing, shame about overgrown top.
Led pitch 1 (Malbogies direct start) and pitch 3. Interesting climbing, shame about overgrown top.
thomasadixon 30 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch, found it pretty hard - especially to figure out where I was supposed to be going! Okay climbing when you do, though not too happy with the choss at the top of the 2nd pitch. 3rd pitch was pretty good.
Led 2nd pitch, found it pretty hard - especially to figure out where I was supposed to be going! Okay climbing when you do, though not too happy with the choss at the top of the 2nd pitch. 3rd pitch was pretty good.
kenneM 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Ed
with Ed
Ed Babs 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Via Malbogies original start. Lead P2+3 combined
with Mike Kenne
Via Malbogies original start. Lead P2+3 combined
with Mike Kenne
brices 18 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf first pitch is horrifically loose pulled off a big hold and took a whipper, the peg is good at least :) flapper on finger and swollen ankle not so great. wish i read the description on here before trying this
with Andy Brice
first pitch is horrifically loose pulled off a big hold and took a whipper, the peg is good at least :) flapper on finger and swollen ankle not so great. wish i read the description on here before trying this
with Andy Brice
Hidden 31 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Ricky Rocks 3 Jun, 2010 AltLd Stevie hyper dee lead the bold 2nd pitch, which had virtually no gear, classic avon.
Stevie hyper dee lead the bold 2nd pitch, which had virtually no gear, classic avon.
tom.e 5 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 and 2. 1st pitch seemed a bit dangerous.
with Charlie Everett
Led pitches 1 and 2. 1st pitch seemed a bit dangerous.
with Charlie Everett
billb ?May, 2009 AltLd O/S
richsmithinbristol ?May, 2009 AltLd
with billb
with billb
KRB 5 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S Pleasant
with Chris Bridges
Pleasant
with Chris Bridges
Marti999 13 Apr, 2007 AltLd 1st pitch very dangerous state large loose flakes no gear. Avoid
1st pitch very dangerous state large loose flakes no gear. Avoid
haydng ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Rob
with Rob
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 29 Apr, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Feb, 2004 AltLd
Paz ?Feb, 2004 AltLd O/S led P2,P3 (both 5b)
led P2,P3 (both 5b)
Tim M ??, 2000 -
Gudge ??, 2000 AltLd O/S
with BUMC
with BUMC
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 1999 AltLd O/S
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
phardman ??, 1997 -
Hidden 14 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
phardman 15 Oct, 1995 AltLd
shoulders ?Jun, 1995 AltLd
Cowflinger ?Jun, 1995 AltLd O/S
with John Williams
with John Williams
keefe ??, 1995 -
UKB Shark ??, 1995 Lead
with John Codling
with John Codling
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
mattnuttall 9 Sep, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Dave Stott
with Dave Stott
markpollak ??, 1994 -
with suzanne mcfadzean
with suzanne mcfadzean
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Hidden 7 Oct, 1989 AltLd O/S
Pete Nugent 8 Jan, 1989 Lead β had seconded in Feb 88. E2,5a,5b,5b** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
with Charlie Everett
had seconded in Feb 88. E2,5a,5b,5b** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
with Charlie Everett
Hidden ??, 1989 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 1988 AltLd O/S
Pete Nugent 17 Feb, 1988 2nd
with Doug Shaw, John Stringfellow
with Doug Shaw, John Stringfellow
DDDD ??, 1988 -
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
steveb2006 12 Oct, 1986 AltLd Led second pitch
with Gary Burton
Led second pitch
with Gary Burton
pete johnson ??, 1985 -
Eduardo Martinez 9 Dec, 1984 AltLd O/S I led pitches 1 and 3 Dave Mould
I led pitches 1 and 3 Dave Mould
William Robertson ??, 1984 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
andy gittins ??, 1983 -
charlesmfrench 2 Oct, 1982 AltLd O/S 2,L,2.
2,L,2.
duncan ?Jul, 1982 Lead O/S
Sully 4 Apr, 1982 2nd O/S
with DP
with DP
redjerry ?Apr, 1982 AltLd
with Jim Melrose
with Jim Melrose
stp 27 Mar, 1982 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??, 1981 -
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Hidden 11 Aug, 1978 2nd O/S
Marcus 13 Jul, 1975 -
with Pete Osborne
with Pete Osborne
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Style of Ascent
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