Rockfax Description
An airy voyage taking in some of the Main Wall's best positions. The climbing is very sustained and some of it serious. Nevertheless, the gear - when present - is good. The first pitch is dangerously loose, however the original start to Malbogies provides a worthy alternative. Start at a small tree on a ledge down and right of Malbogies.
1) 5a, 23m. Move up the blunt rib on the left to a gap between two overhangs and pull up right into a corner. Climb the corner (very loose) to an overhang and bush (thread above). Pull over the overhang and move left to the shattered wall of Malbogies. Follow the wall and corner to the first stance of Malbogies.
1a) 5b, 23m. The Original Malbogies Start. From the Malbogies stance, move up a right-trending groove to a slim overhang and a peg. Pull over and climb the wall above with difficulty to a ledge. Continue as for Malbogies to its first stance.
2) 5b, 28m. Downclimb from the stance for 5m and traverse left on good holds before moving up to good small wires. Move left again and then down to a small overhung niche. Reach left to good holds and move up to a peg. Climb the excellent groove past a peg to the overhang and traverse left for 6m to a peg and large cam belay.
3) 5b, 26m. Traverse back right for 3m to a gap in the overhangs and make a puzzling move up to get established above them. Climb the groove and wall on its left past various pegs to an overhang and move out left around the blunt arete. Finish up the easier wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There is some dangerously loose rock on pitch 1 whcih seems to be getting worse. Probably best to avoid this pitch.

E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill 01/May/1966

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 12/Nov/17 Lead dnf
J_Spooner ?/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

With Original start, Will had great fun....

with Ben Smart, Will Birkett
Hidden 15/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Avon Man 01/May/16 AltLd rpt
with Derek
ollie_e 02/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

The most Avon route in Avon. Weird climbing, crazy line and somewhat terrifying in places. Topping out in thorns was unpleasant.

with Caspian
Caspian Johnson 02/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Nice little outing, bold but secure climbing. Lead p2. Highlights include Ollie having a wobble on p3 whilst i was asking if he had money for ice cream...

with ollie_e
pearson9596 25/Mar/16 AltLd dog

Hold came off in my hand :-(

ian d f 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Led p1 (Malbogies old start) and p3. An interesting route.

Bristoldave 23/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Via Malbogies original start. Nice little expedition. Horrible top out!

with Ben
Cheese Monkey 23/Dec/15 2nd O/S
with Dave
danmullett 26/Oct/15 -
Hidden 16/Apr/15 AltLd β
mike mo ??/2014 -
Avon Man 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
with msoldn
msoldn 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p1&3. Great route! Bit of extra juggy fun taking the final capping roof on p3 direct.

with Mark
eduardo 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S

A relentlessy devious line, excellent technical climbing.

with Misha
Misha 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

A great route. Did the Malbogies direct start. The crux of that took some figuring out, nicely technical. The shared section of Malbogies itself felt pretty run out in places for HVS 5a! Brilliantly crazy line on P2, hard to figure out where to go (little chalk on the route) and sustained technical interest throughout. Down, across, up, down, across, up, across! Belayed right below where P3 goes through the overhanging band, which was a good spot for protecting Ed on the traverse but not so great for P3 as there's hardly any gear on it and it was right above the belay. Wasn't too concerned though, nicely sustained 5b and 5a climbing but nothing desperate. There was an old peg and RPs about 5 metes above the belay and then another 5+ metres to where things eased off. An Avon classic and top end E2. Led all pitches.

with Ed
gripped01 06/Sep/13 AltLd

Wish I read the other route comments before climbing the route. My partner took a 35' fall on the first pitch. 3-4m above peg when hold gave way and he ended up 8-9m below it. Got up and went again though. I led 2nd and 3rd pitch, climbing was brilliant Gorge material. Do not climb the first pitch unless you want that really 'out there' experience.

with Jim Jarvis
Alex Winter 18/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. Really good. The climbing is quite intricate and difficult to read in places, although feels ok once figured out.

with Nick
Nick Russell 18/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

I led p2, Alex pitches 1 and 3. Very intricate climbing, technically sustained but mostly in balance and not at all strenuous. Classic Avon.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

E2, pushing E4 elsewhere in the country. Mildly terrifying gear situations on P2 - very peggy!

with Tim Neill
jcw ??/2013 -
Aaron Lines 10/Oct/12 AltLd
with martin
BeccaSnowden 30/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 (Malbogies direct start) and pitch 3. Interesting climbing, shame about overgrown top.

with Tom
thomasadixon 30/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch, found it pretty hard - especially to figure out where I was supposed to be going! Okay climbing when you do, though not too happy with the choss at the top of the 2nd pitch. 3rd pitch was pretty good.

with Becca
Stanners 22/Sep/12 Lead dnf

........not doing the actual pitch 1 of this route ever again. Had to lower off peg and thread. Looks amazing pitch 2 and 3 though so will return with alternate start.

with James Rich
kenneM 15/Jul/12 AltLd
with Ed
Ed Babs 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Via Malbogies original start. Lead P2+3 combined

with Mike Kenne
brices 18/Jun/12 Lead dnf

first pitch is horrifically loose pulled off a big hold and took a whipper, the peg is good at least :) flapper on finger and swollen ankle not so great. wish i read the description on here before trying this

with Andy Brice
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Ricky Rocks 03/Jun/10 AltLd

Stevie hyper dee lead the bold 2nd pitch, which had virtually no gear, classic avon.

tom.e 05/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 2. 1st pitch seemed a bit dangerous.

with Charlie Everett
billb ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
richsmithinbristol ?/May/09 AltLd
KRB 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S


with Chris Bridges
Marti999 13/Apr/07 AltLd

1st pitch very dangerous state large loose flakes no gear. Avoid

haydng ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 29/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
Paz ?/Feb/04 AltLd O/S

led P2,P3 (both 5b)

with TS
Tim M ??/2000 -
Gudge ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with BUMC
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
Hidden 14/Sep/96 Lead O/S
phardman 15/Oct/95 AltLd
shoulders ?/Jun/95 AltLd
Cowflinger ?/Jun/95 AltLd O/S
with John Williams
keefe ??/1995 -
ukb & bmc shark ??/1995 Lead
with John Codling
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
mattnuttall 09/Sep/94 AltLd O/S
with Dave Stott
markpollak ??/1994 -
with suzanne mcfadzean
Bullybones ??/1990 -
Hidden 07/Oct/89 AltLd O/S
Pete Nugent 08/Jan/89 Lead β

had seconded in Feb 88. E2,5a,5b,5b** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)

with Charlie Everett
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/88 AltLd O/S
Pete Nugent 17/Feb/88 2nd
with Doug Shaw, John Stringfellow
DDDD ??/1988 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 12/Oct/86 AltLd
pete johnson ??/1985 -
Eduardo Martinez 09/Dec/84 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 and 3 Dave Mould

William Robertson ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Emily
andy gittins ??/1983 -
charlesmfrench 02/Oct/82 AltLd O/S


duncan ?/Jul/82 Lead O/S
redjerry ?/Apr/82 AltLd
with Jim Melrose
stp 27/Mar/82 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Unsure
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Hidden 11/Aug/78 2nd O/S
Marcus 13/Jul/75 -
with Pete Osborne
Hidden ??/1973 -
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